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Best 12 volt battery?

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  • Kyle Davis
    At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt battery for a 1st generation Prius? Also, why do you think so? In typical geeky, fashion, I made
    Message 1 of 18 , Dec 26, 2010
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      At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt battery for a 1st generation Prius?
      Also, why do you think so?

      In typical geeky, fashion, I made an excel spreadsheet.

      So far, I have optima, and westco batteries on the list.

      Which ones am I missing?

      Oh the fields, so far I have CCA, cost, source, and warranty terms. I also have a comments field that has space for comments.

      Kyle
    • Bob
      ... You might look at the Odyssey 924. The original battery went from 2003 to 2009. The Odyssey has give me no problems but ask again in about 9-10 years . . .
      Message 2 of 18 , Dec 27, 2010
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        --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Kyle Davis <kylesnow@...> wrote:
        >
        > At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt battery for a 1st generation Prius?
        > Also, why do you think so?
        >
        > In typical geeky, fashion, I made an excel spreadsheet.
        >
        > So far, I have optima, and westco batteries on the list.
        >
        > Which ones am I missing?
        >
        > Oh the fields, so far I have CCA, cost, source, and warranty terms.
        > I also have a comments field that has space for comments.
        >

        You might look at the Odyssey 924. The original battery went from 2003 to 2009. The Odyssey has give me no problems but ask again in about 9-10 years . . . <grins>

        Bob Wilson
      • Felix
        ... I would change the CCA field to AH (amp hours). CCA means nothing on a Prius because the 12v doesn t crank the engine. A high CCA battery has many thin
        Message 3 of 18 , Dec 27, 2010
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          --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Kyle Davis <kylesnow@...> wrote:
          >
          > At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt battery for a 1st generation Prius?
          > Also, why do you think so?
          >
          > In typical geeky, fashion, I made an excel spreadsheet.
          >
          > So far, I have optima, and westco batteries on the list.
          >
          > Which ones am I missing?
          >
          > Oh the fields, so far I have CCA, cost, source, and warranty terms. I also have a comments field that has space for comments.
          >
          > Kyle
          >

          I would change the CCA field to AH (amp hours). CCA means nothing on a Prius because the 12v doesn't crank the engine. A high CCA battery has many thin plates for maximum surface area. A high AH battery has fewer thick plates for maximum lead mass and more resistance to deep discharge damage.
        • David Kelly
          ... I agree with delete CCA in favor of raw AH. The Prius does not crank from the 12V battery. Add a field for venting. If I were replacing my 12V battery I
          Message 4 of 18 , Dec 27, 2010
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            On Dec 26, 2010, at 8:53 PM, Kyle Davis wrote:

            > At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt
            > battery for a 1st generation Prius?
            > Also, why do you think so?
            >
            > In typical geeky, fashion, I made an excel spreadsheet.
            >
            > So far, I have optima, and westco batteries on the list.
            >
            > Which ones am I missing?
            >
            > Oh the fields, so far I have CCA, cost, source, and warranty terms.
            > I also have a comments field that has space for comments.


            I agree with delete CCA in favor of raw AH. The Prius does not crank
            from the 12V battery.

            Add a field for venting.

            If I were replacing my 12V battery I would give serious consideration
            toward AGM lawn tractor batteries. Would also look into UPS and
            wheelchair batteries.

            --
            David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
            ========================================================================
            Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
          • Bob
            Hi, ... . . . ... To some extent, I wonder if the vent might be legacy from a traditional alternator/generator system that requires an active feedback
            Message 5 of 18 , Dec 27, 2010
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              Hi,
              --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, David Kelly <dkelly@...> wrote:
              >
              . . .
              >
              > Add a field for venting.

              To some extent, I wonder if the 'vent' might be legacy from a traditional alternator/generator system that requires an active feedback systems to prevent over voltage failures. But our NHW11 uses a DC-to-DC converter and the reports are of loss of power, not over voltage.

              One tidbit, the NHW11 runs about 13.94 V but the ZVW30 runs at 14.88 V which seems a little high. One planned test is to put a thermal couple on the 12 V battery and see if normal operation results in elevated temperature. It may be that the ZVW30 requires a slightly different battery chemistry ($$.) Certainly it is something I'm not quite as happy with as the 13.94 V from our NHW11. But a sliver lining, a pair of NHW11 modules at 7.2 V would be quite happy and weight less. Do a series-parallel setup, 14.4 V. nominal and this could save weight.

              Bob Wilson
            • David Kelly
              ... I don t think it matters how you charge it, all that matters is the design of the battery. If the battery has vents then it needs vents which readily
              Message 6 of 18 , Dec 28, 2010
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                On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 07:11:55AM -0000, Bob wrote:
                > Hi,
                > --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, David Kelly <dkelly@...> wrote:
                > . . .
                > > Add a field for venting.
                >
                > To some extent, I wonder if the 'vent' might be legacy from a
                > traditional alternator/generator system that requires an active
                > feedback systems to prevent over voltage failures. But our NHW11 uses
                > a DC-to-DC converter and the reports are of loss of power, not over
                > voltage.

                I don't think it matters how you charge it, all that matters is the
                design of the battery. If the battery has vents then it needs vents
                which readily connect to hoses to be directed outside the closed area.

                A lot of people fail to make the connection to motorcycle battery vents.
                The result is a corroded frame. I've seen older Goldwings at the salvage
                yard because someone didn't connect the $0.25 vinyl hose vent to the
                battery whose outlet was right next to a major frame backbone. Only
                discovered when the bike "bent".

                Newer Goldwings use AGM batteries without vents, as do my KTM and
                Husaberg. The KTM and Husaberg actually lay the battery on its back at
                at 45 degree angle, an impossible mounting for wet cell battery.

                > One tidbit, the NHW11 runs about 13.94 V but the ZVW30 runs at 14.88 V
                > which seems a little high. One planned test is to put a thermal couple
                > on the 12 V battery and see if normal operation results in elevated
                > temperature. It may be that the ZVW30 requires a slightly different
                > battery chemistry ($$.) Certainly it is something I'm not quite as
                > happy with as the 13.94 V from our NHW11. But a sliver lining, a pair
                > of NHW11 modules at 7.2 V would be quite happy and weight less. Do a
                > series-parallel setup, 14.4 V. nominal and this could save weight.

                Again, I think that has more to do with the battery than the way it is
                charged. Deltran/Batterytender says the absorption voltage for AGM is
                14.4 to 15.0. Sounds as if you have an AGM battery whose charge is
                currently in the absorption range of 80% to 99% charged.

                Is likely the ZVW30's charger is "smart" and not a constant voltage
                type. If so then all heck will probably break loose if you swap the AGM
                battery with a NiMH.

                --
                David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
                ========================================================================
                Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
              • Jim Klausen
                When my 2001 Prius 12V battery failed, I went to this group for advice and got an Odyssey. That battery failed in less than a year and the company wanted me
                Message 7 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                  When my 2001 Prius 12V battery failed, I went to this group for advice and got an Odyssey. That battery failed in less than a year and the company wanted me to send the battery to them for verification. Since I wouldn't be able to drive my car to the post office to send it I decided to eat the cost and bought a Miata battery. It was cheaper than the Prius battery and had more capacity. It's been working fine for several years now.
                • Dan
                  There are several questions to be asked first...are you a OEM only no matter what, price is no object kinda guy, price vs. functionality. What is the most
                  Message 8 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                    There are several questions to be asked first...are you a "OEM only" no matter
                    what, price is no object kinda guy, price vs. functionality. What is the most
                    likely battery to never leave me stranded at the lowest cost...etc etc..
                    The prius does not use a starter, but rather boots the car computer, runs the
                    auxillary items such as lights, electric windows, locks etc. So a matt battery
                    designed to run a starter(one you can mount upside down and it wont leak) will
                    be overkill, thus last for years beyond an OEM battery. Any 12v deep cycle matt
                    battery of the right size will work in the prius. That being said......


                    OEM: IMO, an under-engineered battery, as it will drain after headlights on for
                    15 minutes and in my opinion the catalyst for the runaway prius problem. 20
                    minute installation.

                    These can/will leave you stranded, and you will need to buy another every 2-3
                    years.

                    As the below batteries are designed to be used with high strain/drain starters.
                    They should last nearly forever with the prius.

                    eLearnaid package: $169 for a Optima yellow top battery and $15 for the
                    conversion kit to U.S. batteries. Will likely never leave you stranded for the
                    next 10 years. You can park it with the proximity piece left on for weeks and it
                    will still start the car. 30 minute installation.
                    I would expect the lights to be left on for hours before the battery runs down.
                    So you can also run electronics that the manufacturer advises against.


                    your own Yellow Top optima: about the same, spend full day running around
                    finding parts for $15 conversion kit....and almost get it right.

                    Better batteries: There are far better batteries for the $200+ range, but for
                    Prius uses, you will not be able to tell the difference between these and the
                    Yellow Top optima. As the $150 and the $300 aftermarket matt 12v batteries will
                    likely all outlast the car.

                    remember, as the battery is contained in the passenger compartment, a standard
                    lead acid battery is really bad news, as it off gases hydrogen and releases
                    acids that will wreck havoc inside the car.



                    Best 12 volt battery?
                    Posted by: "Kyle Davis" kylesnow@... kylesnow@...
                    Mon Dec 27, 2010 6:36 am (PST)

                    At the risk of starting a flame war, what is the best 12 volt battery for a 1st
                    generation Prius?
                    Also, why do you think so?

                    In typical geeky, fashion, I made an excel spreadsheet.

                    So far, I have optima, and westco batteries on the list.

                    Which ones am I missing?

                    Oh the fields, so far I have CCA, cost, source, and warranty terms. I also have
                    a comments field that has space for comments.


                    Kyle

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Chris Wells
                    I have about 25K on my 2010 Prius V which has low profile 17 rims with P215/45R17 tires. The tread is ok but for winter it is getting a little iffy during
                    Message 9 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                      I have about 25K on my 2010 Prius V which has low profile 17" rims with
                      P215/45R17 tires.

                      The tread is ok but for winter it is getting a little iffy during storms.

                      I live in SW Pa. with a lot of hills but use the car mostly for highway
                      commuting.

                      So I have been contemplating snow tires like the Blizzak, Michelin Primacy
                      Alpin PA3 or smilar soft compound and crinkle cut tread tires.



                      One thought is to purchase some steel rims to mount the snow tires so I
                      don't tear up the beads or rims during change over.

                      Can I get by with just doing this for the front wheels or do I have to go
                      for all 4?

                      I understand the difference in sidewall give due to different aspect ratio
                      etc. would affect handling.

                      Also if I use the standard steel rims would I end up with any circumference
                      issues that would affect my cars speedometer, handling or related?

                      On Ebay I can find a set of steel rims and caps for $350.

                      Ebay 310282601998



                      Another approach is to purchase another set of the OEM low profile rims at
                      about $225 on ebay and just do the fronts.

                      Ebay 170570477687 for the rim.

                      Is tirerack.com the best place to find this size and type of tire?



                      Would my local Honda dealer be competitive on either of these? I suspect
                      not.



                      Your thoughts on this?



                      thanks



                      Chris









                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • David Kelly
                      ... If it were me, I would buy a set of standard 15 wheels and tires for winter use. You just might find you like the ride and economy of 15 better than the
                      Message 10 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                        On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 12:55:43PM -0500, Chris Wells wrote:
                        >
                        > One thought is to purchase some steel rims to mount the snow tires so
                        > I don't tear up the beads or rims during change over.

                        If it were me, I would buy a set of standard 15" wheels and tires for
                        winter use. You just might find you like the ride and economy of 15"
                        better than the 17".

                        I wouldn't limit myself to OE Toyota wheels, but that would certainly be
                        a good choice.

                        --
                        David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
                        ========================================================================
                        Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
                      • Levi Smith
                        If you re planning on keeping the car for a few years, I ve generally found the price of wheels cheaper than a couple changeovers a year. Tirerack.com is
                        Message 11 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                          If you're planning on keeping the car for a few years, I've generally found
                          the price of wheels cheaper than a couple changeovers a year. Tirerack.com
                          is where I get my stuff. When I got the wheels for the Prius they are
                          aftermarket alloys and cheaper than what Toyota offers. I would also go
                          with 15" wheels for winter.

                          Yes, you NEED all 4 tires changed over. Otherwise you should only put the
                          better traction tires on the REAR of the car and you'd have no more pulling
                          power. If you put them on the front you'll likely sooner or later find
                          yourself moving along at what feels like a safe speed because the fronts
                          will pull with traction and then WOOSH, your rear end without traction will
                          suddenly be swinging around faster than you can catch it. Especially true
                          on the highway. Been there done that.

                          Levi

                          On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Chris Wells
                          <radioactive55man@...>wrote:

                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > I have about 25K on my 2010 Prius V which has low profile 17" rims with
                          > P215/45R17 tires.
                          >
                          > The tread is ok but for winter it is getting a little iffy during storms.
                          >
                          > I live in SW Pa. with a lot of hills but use the car mostly for highway
                          > commuting.
                          >
                          > So I have been contemplating snow tires like the Blizzak, Michelin Primacy
                          > Alpin PA3 or smilar soft compound and crinkle cut tread tires.
                          >
                          > One thought is to purchase some steel rims to mount the snow tires so I
                          > don't tear up the beads or rims during change over.
                          >
                          > Can I get by with just doing this for the front wheels or do I have to go
                          > for all 4?
                          >
                          > I understand the difference in sidewall give due to different aspect ratio
                          > etc. would affect handling.
                          >
                          > Also if I use the standard steel rims would I end up with any circumference
                          > issues that would affect my cars speedometer, handling or related?
                          >
                          > On Ebay I can find a set of steel rims and caps for $350.
                          >
                          > Ebay 310282601998
                          >
                          > Another approach is to purchase another set of the OEM low profile rims at
                          > about $225 on ebay and just do the fronts.
                          >
                          > Ebay 170570477687 for the rim.
                          >
                          > Is tirerack.com the best place to find this size and type of tire?
                          >
                          > Would my local Honda dealer be competitive on either of these? I suspect
                          > not.
                          >
                          > Your thoughts on this?
                          >
                          > thanks
                          >
                          > Chris
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                          >
                          >


                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Bob
                          Hi Jim, ... I noticed Peter had recommended the PC680, a 17 Ahr, battery. I went with a PC925, 28 Ahr, that required some home-made, custom lugs:
                          Message 12 of 18 , Dec 29, 2010
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                            Hi Jim,

                            --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Jim Klausen <jim@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > When my 2001 Prius 12V battery failed, I went to this group for advice and got an
                            > Odyssey. That battery failed in less than a year and the company wanted me to
                            > send the battery to them for verification. . . .

                            I noticed Peter had recommended the PC680, a 17 Ahr, battery. I went with a PC925, 28 Ahr, that required some home-made, custom lugs:
                            http://hiwaay.net/~bzwilson/prius/pri_12V_040.jpg

                            What happened to the old PC680? Is it still available for forensics or did it ever get sent back for analysis? Did the case crack?

                            Your earlier posting had suggested the car was 'out of service' for periods of 3 months. Is that still the case? Is the battery left in the car with a 'battery minder' or other tickle charger system? In my case, the car seldom goes more than 3-4 days without being used and the temperatures in north Alabama seldom go below 15 F.

                            The reason I ask is it looks like the 13.94 V charge voltage is on the low-side of voltages recommended for charging the Odyssey battery, 14.1-14.7 V. It isn't clear what effect this has on the SOC of the Odyssey PC680/PC925 battery. The Odyssey Owner's Manual can be downloaded from here:

                            http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/US-ODY-OM-006_0208.pdf

                            I have no relationship with Odyssey . . . just sharing some technical data and observations.

                            Bob Wilson
                          • Chris Wells
                            Thanks for all the responses! Ok 4 tires it is. In my younger days we mixed all sorts of tires and managed. I do see some inexpensive aluminum rims at tire
                            Message 13 of 18 , Dec 30, 2010
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                              Thanks for all the responses!



                              Ok 4 tires it is.

                              In my younger days we mixed all sorts of tires and managed.



                              I do see some inexpensive aluminum rims at tire rack.

                              I suppose if they mounted and balanced them the ship might be cheaper than
                              buying separate.

                              But besides winter weather we have a lot of potholes here.

                              So the steel rims have my attention as a practical approach.

                              Still I like the idea of a unique set of aluminum rims.



                              I used this calculator
                              http://www.onlineconversion.com/tire_size_conversion.htm

                              215/45 17" yields 24.6", 195/65 15" yields 25" which is surprisingly a
                              little taller.



                              What about tire flat sensor issues?

                              The new OEM rims I assume don't come with the sensors at $350 set of 4 off
                              eBay.

                              Are they affordable to add? Or is there a way to shut off the display or
                              should I just ignore it?



                              The milder Nokian tires look like a possibility.



                              Chris





                              _____

                              From: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com [mailto:toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com] On
                              Behalf Of Chris Wells
                              Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:56 PM
                              To: 'Yahoo Prius Group'
                              Subject: [toyota-prius] Snow tires 2010 Prius V with low profile tires







                              I have about 25K on my 2010 Prius V which has low profile 17" rims with
                              P215/45R17 tires.

                              The tread is ok but for winter it is getting a little iffy during storms.

                              I live in SW Pa. with a lot of hills but use the car mostly for highway
                              commuting.

                              So I have been contemplating snow tires like the Blizzak, Michelin Primacy
                              Alpin PA3 or smilar soft compound and crinkle cut tread tires.

                              One thought is to purchase some steel rims to mount the snow tires so I
                              don't tear up the beads or rims during change over.

                              Can I get by with just doing this for the front wheels or do I have to go
                              for all 4?

                              I understand the difference in sidewall give due to different aspect ratio
                              etc. would affect handling.

                              Also if I use the standard steel rims would I end up with any circumference
                              issues that would affect my cars speedometer, handling or related?

                              On Ebay I can find a set of steel rims and caps for $350.

                              Ebay 310282601998

                              Another approach is to purchase another set of the OEM low profile rims at
                              about $225 on ebay and just do the fronts.

                              Ebay 170570477687 for the rim.

                              Is tirerack.com the best place to find this size and type of tire?

                              Would my local Honda dealer be competitive on either of these? I suspect
                              not.

                              Your thoughts on this?

                              thanks

                              Chris






                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Levi Smith
                              I m not saying you CAN T mix the tires, but Car & Driver among others have done tests, and if you put two tires like Blizzaks on the front of a FWD car so
                              Message 14 of 18 , Dec 31, 2010
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                                I'm not saying you CAN'T mix the tires, but Car & Driver among others have
                                done tests, and if you put two tires like Blizzaks on the front of a FWD car
                                so you've got great traction and then some sort of all seasons on the back
                                that aren't and sooner or later you hit the right circumstances you'll very
                                likely be spinning. I did it with a mix of tires on a CRX on the highway
                                once. That was enough for me.

                                Yes, it depends on the deal you can find, but when I've looked, my prices
                                compared more or less that the shipping costs balance out the tax costs, and
                                buying them mounted/balanced saves an initial $50, & if I were to
                                remount/balance twice a year, that's a good $100/year I'd be spending NOT to
                                buy wheels, let alone more hassle.

                                Our roads aren't great around here,but I'm not sure just how bad bad can be.
                                But I've never had a problem with aluminum wheels. I have more trouble
                                with steel wheels getting seized on to the hubs.

                                Mine doesn't have the tire sensors so I've not had to deal with them yet.
                                I'd say yes your options are to buy another set, or just do without. Or
                                that would be more of an argument to not get new wheels and simply
                                mount/balance so as to avoid the cost of more sensors if you really wanted
                                to keep them.

                                I've heard Nokian makes some great snow tires as well as some that are great
                                snow tires and all seasons in one. No experience myself.

                                Levi

                                On Thu, Dec 30, 2010 at 12:52 PM, Chris Wells
                                <radioactive55man@...>wrote:

                                >
                                >
                                > Thanks for all the responses!
                                >
                                > Ok 4 tires it is.
                                >
                                > In my younger days we mixed all sorts of tires and managed.
                                >
                                > I do see some inexpensive aluminum rims at tire rack.
                                >
                                > I suppose if they mounted and balanced them the ship might be cheaper than
                                > buying separate.
                                >
                                > But besides winter weather we have a lot of potholes here.
                                >
                                > So the steel rims have my attention as a practical approach.
                                >
                                > Still I like the idea of a unique set of aluminum rims.
                                >
                                > I used this calculator
                                > http://www.onlineconversion.com/tire_size_conversion.htm
                                >
                                > 215/45 17" yields 24.6", 195/65 15" yields 25" which is surprisingly a
                                > little taller.
                                >
                                > What about tire flat sensor issues?
                                >
                                > The new OEM rims I assume don't come with the sensors at $350 set of 4 off
                                > eBay.
                                >
                                > Are they affordable to add? Or is there a way to shut off the display or
                                > should I just ignore it?
                                >
                                > The milder Nokian tires look like a possibility.
                                >
                                > Chris
                                >
                                > _____
                                >
                                > From: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com <toyota-prius%40yahoogroups.com>[mailto:
                                > toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com <toyota-prius%40yahoogroups.com>] On
                                > Behalf Of Chris Wells
                                > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:56 PM
                                > To: 'Yahoo Prius Group'
                                > Subject: [toyota-prius] Snow tires 2010 Prius V with low profile tires
                                >
                                >
                                > I have about 25K on my 2010 Prius V which has low profile 17" rims with
                                > P215/45R17 tires.
                                >
                                > The tread is ok but for winter it is getting a little iffy during storms.
                                >
                                > I live in SW Pa. with a lot of hills but use the car mostly for highway
                                > commuting.
                                >
                                > So I have been contemplating snow tires like the Blizzak, Michelin Primacy
                                > Alpin PA3 or smilar soft compound and crinkle cut tread tires.
                                >
                                > One thought is to purchase some steel rims to mount the snow tires so I
                                > don't tear up the beads or rims during change over.
                                >
                                > Can I get by with just doing this for the front wheels or do I have to go
                                > for all 4?
                                >
                                > I understand the difference in sidewall give due to different aspect ratio
                                > etc. would affect handling.
                                >
                                > Also if I use the standard steel rims would I end up with any circumference
                                > issues that would affect my cars speedometer, handling or related?
                                >
                                > On Ebay I can find a set of steel rims and caps for $350.
                                >
                                > Ebay 310282601998
                                >
                                > Another approach is to purchase another set of the OEM low profile rims at
                                > about $225 on ebay and just do the fronts.
                                >
                                > Ebay 170570477687 for the rim.
                                >
                                > Is tirerack.com the best place to find this size and type of tire?
                                >
                                > Would my local Honda dealer be competitive on either of these? I suspect
                                > not.
                                >
                                > Your thoughts on this?
                                >
                                > thanks
                                >
                                > Chris
                                >
                                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                >
                                >
                                >


                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • Adrian Jones
                                Kyle wrote: remember, as the battery is contained in the passenger compartment, a standard lead acid battery is really bad news, as it off gases hydrogen and
                                Message 15 of 18 , Dec 31, 2010
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                                  Kyle wrote:

                                  "remember, as the battery is contained in the passenger compartment, a
                                  standard

                                  lead acid battery is really bad news, as it off gases hydrogen and releases

                                  acids that will wreck havoc inside the car."



                                  Come on now, is this really a problem?

                                  I can't believe there would be such a buildup of hydrogen that when you
                                  light up your Lucky Strike there would be an big explosion.

                                  Also, I've never seen any corrosion under the hood that could be attributed
                                  to the acid vapors (obviously you would use a plastic to contain any
                                  spills).

                                  Cheers!



                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                • Peter Blackford
                                  I don t know about you, but I sure don t ride around in the trunk... That little detail aside, yes, it IS possible (with a conventional, vented) to have acid
                                  Message 16 of 18 , Dec 31, 2010
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                                    I don't know about you, but I sure don't ride around in the trunk...

                                    That 'little detail' aside, yes, it IS possible (with a conventional, vented) to have acid fumes damage the area [remember, not as much air circulating there as under the hood], and even (though not likely with gel-cells) sufficient hydrogen buildup within the battery to cause it to explode. Happened with a friend's DieHard several years ago - couldn't find anything larger than one of the battery's plates after it happened. Trunk-mounted battery - quite a mess.

                                    BTDT, just one more reason I like the (unvented) Odyssey best of all current offerings.

                                    Happy New Year to all,

                                    Pete

                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    >
                                    >Kyle wrote:
                                    >
                                    >"remember, as the battery is contained in the passenger compartment, a
                                    >standard
                                    >lead acid battery is really bad news, as it off gases hydrogen and releases
                                    >acids that will wreck havoc inside the car."
                                    >
                                  • David Kelly
                                    ... Is not an uncommon occurrence for a conventional battery under the well-ventilated hood to explode. I don t know what mechanism triggers the event, suspect
                                    Message 17 of 18 , Dec 31, 2010
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                                      On Dec 31, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Peter Blackford wrote:

                                      > That 'little detail' aside, yes, it IS possible (with a conventional, vented) to have acid fumes damage the area [remember, not as much air circulating there as under the hood], and even (though not likely with gel-cells) sufficient hydrogen buildup within the battery to cause it to explode. Happened with a friend's DieHard several years ago - couldn't find anything larger than one of the battery's plates after it happened. Trunk-mounted battery - quite a mess.


                                      Is not an uncommon occurrence for a conventional battery under the well-ventilated hood to explode. I don't know what mechanism triggers the event, suspect a short which generates lots of heat. Usually seems to happen on open roads, not in stop/go commuting situations.

                                      As for corrosion under the hood? Have seen hoods eaten through by battery vent gas.

                                      Posted previously I have seen Honda Goldwing motorcycles in the salvage yard with broken frames which were weakened by battery vent gas for lack of an 18" long 3/16" diameter clear vinyl hose.

                                      --
                                      David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
                                      ========================================================================
                                      Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
                                    • Kyle Davis
                                      Actually, I don t think I said anything about the battery s location in my original post. Now that it s been mentioned, the other car I had with pretty decent
                                      Message 18 of 18 , Jan 1, 2011
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                                        Actually, I don't think I said anything about the battery's location in my original post.

                                        Now that it's been mentioned, the other car I had with pretty decent mileage had the battery under the passenger rear bench seat.

                                        Perhaps battery location is a trade off for mpg performance?

                                        What do you guys think?

                                        Also, a buddy of mine has a newer chevy cobalt, and its battery is in the trunk as well.

                                        Kyle
                                        02 prius
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