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Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts

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  • William Lucke
    Hey, I thought I got the last pair in the world!? At any rate, is Tim still on this list? I have a question about the struts... Is there a high performance
    Message 1 of 14 , Nov 1, 2004
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      Hey, I thought I got the last pair in the world!?

      At any rate, is Tim still on this list?

      I have a question about the struts...

      Is there a high performance strut cartridge with acceptable OD, compressed
      length and extended length that could have air bags adapted to it and be
      used in the 6000's?

      I can use Koni struts for a Fiero in the front of my Goose, but there's no
      similar high performance option for the rears. I'd really like to have
      double adjustable air struts in the back of my car.

      Also, I've been thinking about putting a solenoid valve in the rear air
      system to keep the struts from blowing air back and forth between them. The
      stock system allows the struts to exchange air from left to right and vice
      versa as the car rolls in corners. Putting a solenoid valve in between them
      to prevent this should increase rear roll stiffness and help the car's
      terminal understeering cornering attitude.


      Will


      > From: lapurr_n_smurf
      >Subject: Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts
      >
      >
      >As far as the struts go, Tim Anderson is the only way to go on this
      >anymore. I bought the last pair of OEM struts in the world last
      >year, or was it earlier this year? Either way, from the dealer, only
      >one side is available. And at a cost of 500 for one strut, or Tim
      >Anderson to rebuild both of them for 350, I think the choice is
      >fairly simple on this one.
      >
      >As far as the cruise control goes, there are 3 posibilitys. First
      >the control buttons under the dash on the brake pedal stop are
      >plausible. The other is the turn signal stalk could, where the
      >buttons are located to turn on, resume, and off, this could be bad.
      >It is on my STE. You can buy them from autozone for about 80 bucks.
      >There is a trick to installing them that I dont know. I paid to get
      >mine fixed. The is a guy on ebay that sells replacements. Dont buy
      >them from him, I did. He sent me a cruise control/turn signal stalk
      >for a 88 Chevy Astro. It worked, but now I dont have high speed
      >windsheild wipers cause its hard points are slightly diferent. The
      >3rd posibility is the cruise control module. Its under the hood, and
      >has cable that connect to the throttle body. These do, upon ocasion,
      >go out. But since these babys are expensive, I would check and
      >change this after all other options have been exhausted.
      >
      >Brian
      >
      >Lost In Texas.


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    • Tim Anderson
      ... Give me a week or two to see what I can come up with. ... I like this idea, as I don t like linking two air struts/shocks to one supply. Back in 60s &
      Message 2 of 14 , Nov 3, 2004
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        > Is there a high performance strut cartridge with acceptable
        > OD, compressed length and extended length that could have
        > air bags adapted to it and be used in the 6000's?
        > I can use Koni struts for a Fiero in the front of my Goose,
        > but there's no similar high performance option for the rears.

        Give me a week or two to see what I can come up with.

        > Also, I've been thinking about putting a solenoid valve in
        > the rear air system to keep the struts from blowing air
        > back and forth between them.

        I like this idea, as I don't like linking two air struts/shocks to
        one supply.

        Back in '60s & '70s, when I would modify cars for more HP, larger
        tires, etc., I always ran seperate air lines with seperate fill
        connectors for the air shocks. I never used the "T" fitting that
        usually came with the shocks.

        However, I see a potential issue: a slow leak on one side would
        result in uneven air pressure between the two sides. It may be
        better to use a fixed oriface to limit airflow during cornering,
        while still allowing the air pressure to equalize? (Probably need a
        filter, also, to prevent clogs in the oriface.)

        Tim
      • William Lucke
        I d appreciate it if you could find out. However, I m not going to be in a position to buy a set for a while. What I m going to do is wire the solenoid valve
        Message 3 of 14 , Nov 5, 2004
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          I'd appreciate it if you could find out. However, I'm not going to be in a
          position to buy a set for a while.

          What I'm going to do is wire the solenoid valve to open whenever the
          compressor activates or the blow down valve opens. That should equalize the
          pressure between the two. I may also wire in a manual control to equalize
          as well. I can have a bank of switches related to ride height control in
          the ash tray box. One for manual/auto/equalize, and the other to raise or
          lower in manual mode. At that point I would also fit the front with air
          bags inside the springs so that I could give the entire car and extra
          couple of inches of ground clearance with the flip of a switch.


          Will


          > From: "Tim Anderson" <timanderson22@...>
          >Subject: Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts
          >
          >
          > > Is there a high performance strut cartridge with acceptable
          > > OD, compressed length and extended length that could have
          > > air bags adapted to it and be used in the 6000's?
          > > I can use Koni struts for a Fiero in the front of my Goose,
          > > but there's no similar high performance option for the rears.
          >
          >Give me a week or two to see what I can come up with.
          >
          > > Also, I've been thinking about putting a solenoid valve in
          > > the rear air system to keep the struts from blowing air
          > > back and forth between them.
          >
          >I like this idea, as I don't like linking two air struts/shocks to
          >one supply.
          >
          >Back in '60s & '70s, when I would modify cars for more HP, larger
          >tires, etc., I always ran seperate air lines with seperate fill
          >connectors for the air shocks. I never used the "T" fitting that
          >usually came with the shocks.
          >
          >However, I see a potential issue: a slow leak on one side would
          >result in uneven air pressure between the two sides. It may be
          >better to use a fixed oriface to limit airflow during cornering,
          >while still allowing the air pressure to equalize? (Probably need a
          >filter, also, to prevent clogs in the oriface.)
          >
          >Tim


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        • William Lucke
          Oh, BTW... are you starting with cartridges that have airbags, or starting with cartridges that do not, and then adding airbags? Will ... Outgoing mail is
          Message 4 of 14 , Nov 11, 2004
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            Oh, BTW... are you starting with cartridges that have airbags, or starting
            with cartridges that do not, and then adding airbags?


            Will


            > > From: "Tim Anderson" <timanderson22@...>
            > >Subject: Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts
            > >
            > >
            > > > Is there a high performance strut cartridge with acceptable
            > > > OD, compressed length and extended length that could have
            > > > air bags adapted to it and be used in the 6000's?
            > > > I can use Koni struts for a Fiero in the front of my Goose,
            > > > but there's no similar high performance option for the rears.
            > >
            > >Give me a week or two to see what I can come up with.
            > >
            > > > Also, I've been thinking about putting a solenoid valve in
            > > > the rear air system to keep the struts from blowing air
            > > > back and forth between them.
            > >
            > >I like this idea, as I don't like linking two air struts/shocks to
            > >one supply.
            > >
            > >Back in '60s & '70s, when I would modify cars for more HP, larger
            > >tires, etc., I always ran seperate air lines with seperate fill
            > >connectors for the air shocks. I never used the "T" fitting that
            > >usually came with the shocks.
            > >
            > >However, I see a potential issue: a slow leak on one side would
            > >result in uneven air pressure between the two sides. It may be
            > >better to use a fixed oriface to limit airflow during cornering,
            > >while still allowing the air pressure to equalize? (Probably need a
            > >filter, also, to prevent clogs in the oriface.)
            > >
            > >Tim
            >
            >
            > ----------
            >
            >
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            >
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            >
            >
            >
            >________________________________________________________________________
            >________________________________________________________________________
            >
            >
            >
            >------------------------------------------------------------------------
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            >
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            >
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          • Tim Anderson
            Here s what I do: 1. Purchase brand new air strut assemblies that have the right critical dimensions. 2. Remove the lower mounting brackets from the new
            Message 5 of 14 , Nov 12, 2004
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              Here's what I do:

              1. Purchase brand new air strut assemblies that have the right critical
              dimensions.
              2. Remove the lower mounting brackets from the new struts, destroying
              the bracket in the process but not damaging the struts.
              3. Remove the lower mounting brackets from the old struts, destroying
              the struts but not the brackets.
              4. Make any needed repairs to the old brackets, i.e. fixing rust
              damage.
              5. Weld the old lower brackets to the new struts.
              6. Paint 'em & ship 'em.

              This process is shown on my website at: http://6000ste.com/process.htm



              Thnx,

              Tim Anderson



              _____

              From: William Lucke [mailto:wlucke@...]
              Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2004 7:12 PM
              To: the6000club@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [The 6000 Club] Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts



              Oh, BTW... are you starting with cartridges that have airbags, or starting
              with cartridges that do not, and then adding airbags?


              Will






              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • William Lucke
              I ve read that... What I was wonder is whether or not you start with ONLY airbag struts, or if you can take a cartridge with no air bag and convert it to an
              Message 6 of 14 , Nov 14, 2004
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                I've read that...
                What I was wonder is whether or not you start with ONLY airbag struts, or
                if you can take a cartridge with no air bag and convert it to an airbag strut.
                I'd be very surprised if there were any Koni strut with an airbag.


                Will


                > From: "Tim Anderson" <timanderson22@...>
                >Subject: RE: Re: Wanted: Elusive AWD struts
                >
                >Here's what I do:
                >
                >1. Purchase brand new air strut assemblies that have the right critical
                >dimensions.
                >2. Remove the lower mounting brackets from the new struts, destroying
                >the bracket in the process but not damaging the struts.
                >3. Remove the lower mounting brackets from the old struts, destroying
                >the struts but not the brackets.
                >4. Make any needed repairs to the old brackets, i.e. fixing rust
                >damage.
                >5. Weld the old lower brackets to the new struts.
                >6. Paint 'em & ship 'em.
                >
                >This process is shown on my website at: http://6000ste.com/process.htm
                >
                >
                >
                >Thnx,
                >
                >Tim Anderson


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