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Re: [taigtools] Stuck lathe tail stock cross slide

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  • Will Schmit
    Tony, My tailstock is about 1/16 low. I use it (commonly) for pre-drilling parts before I finish them with the boring bar (guided by the CNC table, but it
    Message 1 of 13 , Jun 24, 2013
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      Tony,
      My tailstock is about 1/16" low.
      I use it (commonly) for pre-drilling parts before I finish them with the boring bar (guided by the CNC table, but it really sucks to slide it out to load a part, slide it back, and cram a piece of 16ga brass between the slide and the ways.  Lately, I just give up and just make sure that the flutes of the drill are oriented top/bottom.

      All I can think of (why it is so wrong), is that the headstock is too high.
      Taig must have made it this way for a reason.


      ________________________________
      From: Tony Jeffree <tony@...>
      To: taigtools <taigtools@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 3:38 AM
      Subject: Re: [taigtools] Stuck lathe tail stock cross slide



       
      Bill -

      My advice would be to adjust the tailstock so that it is exactly on-axis
      and then leave it alone - adjusting tailstocks (generally, not just the
      Taig) is a PIA and best avoided if at all possible - most of the time you
      want it to be absolutely on-axis. If you need to taper-turn then either use
      the topslide or adapt a boring head to serve as an adjustable offset
      tailstock centre.

      I did modify my tailstock so that it has micrometer offset adjustment, but
      apart from using the adjustment to align the tailsock after doing the mods
      mine has remained as I left it.

      Regards,
      Tony

      On 24 June 2013 03:14, semobill4114 <semobill4114@...> wrote:

      > I was trying to take the tail stock apart to clean it. After removing the
      > bolts and hardware, the cross slide would not budge. It is at least ten
      > years old and has never been set over before. After I gave it some
      > cautious whacks with a weighted plastic hammer it moved about an inch but
      > that was all.
      >
      > I suspect that old lube and dirt has glued the parts together. I thought
      > about carefully applying some heat might break the seal. But first, I
      > wanted to check in and see if anyone else has had a similar problem. I am
      > open to suggestions.
      >
      > Bill
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
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      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Bill M
      ________________________________ Thanks to everyone who responded.  Good ideas all.  Tony was right ( Don t move it! ) or something like that.  Don and
      Message 2 of 13 , Jun 24, 2013
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        ________________________________
        Thanks to everyone who responded.  Good ideas all.  Tony was right ("Don't move it! " ) or something like that.  Don and Paul's suggestions that I might need a new one are reasonable and logical.  That will probably be the smart thing to do.

        Thanks again.

        Bill 


        I think the term is self welding.  Clean aluminum pieces firmly pressed together will weld themselves together.  That is how they make the refrigerator coils out of two flat sheets of aluminum.  

        You might get the parts apart, but there will likely be some tearing of the "weld"  If you want a tail stock you can adjust, pick up a new one from Nick and lube the dove tail prior to putting it in service. 

        Don

        --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "LJG" <yrralguthrie@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > Aluminum is a little "sticky" for want of a better term, and the tailstock on the Taig is bare aluminum.  If two blocks of bare aluminum were bolted together and left for 10 years, they probably would be stuck together. I suspect your problem is just due to the natural properties of aluminum.
        >





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      • James Eckman
        ... Or given the cost and the ease of changing the tailstock, buy a second one. Jim
        Message 3 of 13 , Jun 25, 2013
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          > Posted by: "Tony Jeffree"
          > Bill -
          >
          > My advice would be to adjust the tailstock so that it is exactly on-axis
          > and then leave it alone - adjusting tailstocks (generally, not just the
          > Taig) is a PIA and best avoided if at all possible - most of the time you
          > want it to be absolutely on-axis. If you need to taper-turn then either use
          > the topslide or adapt a boring head to serve as an adjustable offset
          > tailstock centre.
          Or given the cost and the ease of changing the tailstock, buy a second one.

          Jim
        • Tony Jeffree
          That is an option too :) Regards, Tony ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          Message 4 of 13 , Jun 25, 2013
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            That is an option too :)

            Regards,
            Tony
            On Jun 25, 2013 3:16 PM, "James Eckman" <ronin_engineer@...> wrote:

            >
            > > Posted by: "Tony Jeffree"
            > > Bill -
            > >
            > > My advice would be to adjust the tailstock so that it is exactly on-axis
            > > and then leave it alone - adjusting tailstocks (generally, not just the
            > > Taig) is a PIA and best avoided if at all possible - most of the time you
            > > want it to be absolutely on-axis. If you need to taper-turn then either
            > use
            > > the topslide or adapt a boring head to serve as an adjustable offset
            > > tailstock centre.
            > Or given the cost and the ease of changing the tailstock, buy a second one.
            >
            > Jim
            >
            >
            > ------------------------------------
            >
            > To Post a message, send it to:
            > taigtools@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
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            >
            > Let the chips fly!
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Lewis Hein
            ... My Zuiko 300 mm lens just did that to me a few weeks ago. I was out on a camping trip, and I noticed that the tripod collar locking screw was getting
            Message 5 of 13 , Jun 29, 2013
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              >I think the term is self welding. Clean aluminum pieces firmly pressed
              >together will weld themselves together

              My Zuiko 300 mm lens just did that to me a few weeks ago. I was out on a
              camping trip, and I noticed that the tripod collar locking screw was getting
              really stiff to turn. It was an aluminum screw in aluminum. It soon twisted
              off, but my Taig has since helped fix that. (I'll be discussing this in the
              next issue of my newsletter)

              Lewis
              Pens, plans and projects online at www.heinfamilyenterprises.com/ppp
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "Don" <Don@...>
              To: <taigtools@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 4:55 PM
              Subject: [taigtools] Re: Stuck lathe tail stock cross slide


              >I think the term is self welding. Clean aluminum pieces firmly pressed
              >together will weld themselves together. That is how they make the
              >refrigerator coils out of two flat sheets of aluminum.
              >
              > You might get the parts apart, but there will likely be some tearing of
              > the "weld" If you want a tail stock you can adjust, pick up a new one
              > from Nick and lube the dove tail prior to putting it in service.
              >
              > Don
              >
              > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "LJG" <yrralguthrie@...> wrote:
              >>
              >>
              >> Aluminum is a little "sticky" for want of a better term, and the
              >> tailstock on the Taig is bare aluminum. If two blocks of bare aluminum
              >> were bolted together and left for 10 years, they probably would be stuck
              >> together. I suspect your problem is just due to the natural properties of
              >> aluminum.
              >>
              >> That said, you don't really care, you just want them apart. A solvent
              >> may or may not penetrate.
              >>
              >> I would drop it in a container of WD40. (I buy it by the gallon)
              >>
              >> Then I would make a hole in a piece of plywood to allow the "moveable"
              >> part to enter and put in in a vise and try to push the part out with a
              >> wooden dowel or just a flat piece of plywood. A six inch vise would get
              >> it part way out. The aluminum should not contact the vice.
              >>
              >> No vise big enough? I'd figure a way to use a little bottle jack and
              >> something heavy!
              >>
              >> And if it comes out I think there is a 50-50 chance it will be useable.
              >>
              >> ljg
              >>
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              >
              > To Post a message, send it to:
              > taigtools@yahoogroups.com
              >
              > To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
              > taigtools-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              >
              > Let the chips fly!
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
            • Will Schmit
              Lew, When dealing with threaded aluminum to aluminum, use silicone grease. I use clarinet cork grease. ________________________________ From: Lewis Hein
              Message 6 of 13 , Jun 29, 2013
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                Lew,
                When dealing with threaded aluminum to aluminum, use silicone grease.
                I use clarinet cork grease.


                ________________________________
                From: Lewis Hein <lhein@...>
                To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 10:08 AM
                Subject: Re: [taigtools] Re: Stuck lathe tail stock cross slide



                 
                >I think the term is self welding. Clean aluminum pieces firmly pressed
                >together will weld themselves together

                My Zuiko 300 mm lens just did that to me a few weeks ago. I was out on a
                camping trip, and I noticed that the tripod collar locking screw was getting
                really stiff to turn. It was an aluminum screw in aluminum. It soon twisted
                off, but my Taig has since helped fix that. (I'll be discussing this in the
                next issue of my newsletter)

                Lewis
                Pens, plans and projects online at www.heinfamilyenterprises.com/ppp
                ----- Original Message -----
                From: "Don" <Don@...>
                To: <taigtools@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 4:55 PM
                Subject: [taigtools] Re: Stuck lathe tail stock cross slide

                >I think the term is self welding. Clean aluminum pieces firmly pressed
                >together will weld themselves together. That is how they make the
                >refrigerator coils out of two flat sheets of aluminum.
                >
                > You might get the parts apart, but there will likely be some tearing of
                > the "weld" If you want a tail stock you can adjust, pick up a new one
                > from Nick and lube the dove tail prior to putting it in service.
                >
                > Don
                >
                > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "LJG" <yrralguthrie@...> wrote:
                >>
                >>
                >> Aluminum is a little "sticky" for want of a better term, and the
                >> tailstock on the Taig is bare aluminum. If two blocks of bare aluminum
                >> were bolted together and left for 10 years, they probably would be stuck
                >> together. I suspect your problem is just due to the natural properties of
                >> aluminum.
                >>
                >> That said, you don't really care, you just want them apart. A solvent
                >> may or may not penetrate.
                >>
                >> I would drop it in a container of WD40. (I buy it by the gallon)
                >>
                >> Then I would make a hole in a piece of plywood to allow the "moveable"
                >> part to enter and put in in a vise and try to push the part out with a
                >> wooden dowel or just a flat piece of plywood. A six inch vise would get
                >> it part way out. The aluminum should not contact the vice.
                >>
                >> No vise big enough? I'd figure a way to use a little bottle jack and
                >> something heavy!
                >>
                >> And if it comes out I think there is a 50-50 chance it will be useable.
                >>
                >> ljg
                >>
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ------------------------------------
                >
                > To Post a message, send it to:
                > taigtools@yahoogroups.com
                >
                > To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
                > taigtools-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                >
                > Let the chips fly!
                > Yahoo! Groups Links
                >
                >
                >




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