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Re: Lighting

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  • John Hutnick
    The current Jansjo lights mount with 2 metric screws up from underneath the base. I have not experienced any sagging. Regarding the small in-line switch, I
    Message 1 of 15 , Apr 4, 2013
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      The current Jansjo lights mount with 2 metric screws up from underneath the
      base. I have not experienced any sagging. Regarding the small in-line
      switch, I have not had any failing as was described. When I have a switch
      that I do not want to keep operating, I buy a switched receptacle and mount
      this in an electrical box where I need it. Then the job is done by the
      off-on toggle switch in the receptacle. I have done this for the in-line
      switch in a Unimat cord.


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • wsfurrie
      My oldest Jansjo light is about 2 years old and the switch is still good. My problem with it is that it is an in-line switch and a pain to keep fumbling for. I
      Message 2 of 15 , Apr 5, 2013
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        My oldest Jansjo light is about 2 years old and the switch is still good. My problem with it is that it is an in-line switch and a pain to keep fumbling for. I finally attached the switch to the goose-neck with tie-wraps, the cord is small and that works great. My granddaughter works at Ikea and I am tempted to have her pick up a few more, they are so handy.
        Wayne

        --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, John Hutnick <johnhutnick@...> wrote:
        >
        > The current Jansjo lights mount with 2 metric screws up from underneath the
        > base. I have not experienced any sagging. Regarding the small in-line
        > switch, I have not had any failing as was described. When I have a switch
        > that I do not want to keep operating, I buy a switched receptacle and mount
        > this in an electrical box where I need it. Then the job is done by the
        > off-on toggle switch in the receptacle. I have done this for the in-line
        > switch in a Unimat cord.
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • Shane Adams
        Excellent thanks Jeffrey - I did not consider the SSR fail in the on state, the kill switch is a great idea for changing bits!  I will incorporate that into
        Message 3 of 15 , Apr 5, 2013
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          Excellent thanks Jeffrey -

          I did not consider the SSR fail in the on state, the kill switch is a great idea for changing bits!  I will incorporate that into my circuit!  I considered mechanical relay, as I have to order one online I figured I would go for an SSR but I do admit to like hearing the "click" of a mechanical relay :)

          Cheers,
            Shane
           
          http://www.fuper.com ~ https://github.com/adamsch1


          ________________________________
          From: Jeffrey Birt <birt_j@...>
          To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 8:43 AM
          Subject: RE: [taigtools] Power rating for 1/4 motor on the taig mill?


           
          The full load rating is 3.8A, motor draw much more current when starting up
          though so a 10A-~12A relay would be about the correct size. Relays that can
          be used with inductive loads will typically have a HP rating as well.

          Solid State Relays have the tendency to fail in the ‘ON’, i.e. shorted,
          modes. You must have a secondary method to remove power from the spindle
          motor. I know one guy who walked into his shop in the morning and found that
          the spindle motor on his knee mill had been running all night as the SSR
          controlling it shorted out. Think of what your fingers would look like if
          that happened when you are changing a bit. The switch on the Z column is
          useful for this purpose as you can flip off when changing bits.

          Since the G540 outputs are capable of sinking about a good deal of current
          you can drive an mechanical relay directly from it. Take a look at:
          http://www.soigeneris.com/24v_and_48v_relay_kits-details.aspx (my website)
          for an idea of the type of relay that can be used. I have one customer who
          had very short cycle times, 0.5~2minutes, and they run the Taig mill about
          8~10 hours a day. After four years of this the relay failed so I recommended
          a SSR. For most folks with the cycle time for a small CNC is MUCH longer for
          a mechanical relay will last forever and is about ¼ the price of a SSR.

          Jeff Birt

          Soigeneris.com

          From: taigtools@yahoogroups.com [mailto:taigtools@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
          Of Shane Adams
          Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 10:03 AM
          To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [taigtools] Power rating for 1/4 motor on the taig mill?

          Hi everyone,

          What is the rating of the 1/4 hp motor in power and current draw? I'm at
          work, now that I'm typing this it might be labeled on the motor itself but
          in case it's not I might as well ask. I want to hook it up to a solid state
          relay driven by my gecko g540 to turn the spindle on/off.

          Cheers,
          Shane

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        • Thayer Syme
          ... Not discontinued yet. I bought four this last Sunday at our local store. Thayer
          Message 4 of 15 , Apr 17, 2013
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            >I buy the Jansjo lamps directly at the local Ikea store. I have gradually
            >accumulated a stock of them. I figure that if I like a product, that is a
            >good reason for it to be discontinued. Note that the weighted base is a
            >separate item. So you can adapt the gooseneck to other mountings. I have
            >used one on a plywod "lap desk" that I made.

            Not discontinued yet. I bought four this last Sunday at our local store.

            Thayer
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