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Re: Putting lighting on the part

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  • Shawn Woolley
    I actually have several and yep the BNC connected ones are pretty cool I have a 12 inch L-3 fixed neck gooseneck on my lathe and two of the L-4 BNC 12 inch
    Message 1 of 24 , Apr 3, 2013
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      I actually have several and yep the BNC connected ones are pretty cool I have a 12 inch L-3 fixed neck gooseneck on my lathe and two of the L-4 BNC 12 inch ones on my mill. I went with the high intensity halogen because of the adjustable heat dispersing head which allows flexible movement for adjusting the light coverage without fighting the gooseneck. I honestly didn't know they had so many models mine were kind of basic models and are a few years old but they work really well and the adjustable neck and dimmer gives you a lot of control.




      --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Jake Horky <jacob.horky@...> wrote:
      >
      > Do you remember which model Littlelite you have? I hadn't heard of them
      > until now... they have a lot to choose from, and it looks like they are
      > made in the US.
      >
      > It might be neat to strategically mount a BNC connector somewhere on the
      > mill & lathe in order to use one of their many soundboard lights.
      >
      >
      > On Wed, Apr 3, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Shawn Woolley <shawnwoolley@...> wrote:
      >
      > > **
      > >
      > >
      > > As a artist and painter I deal with light all the time and I find that too
      > > much is just as bad as not enough. I chose to put the small Littlelite on
      > > my lathe mounted directly above and just slightly too the front of the work
      > > piece for this reason. The head or shield on my light rotates so I can get
      > > very fine adjustment and I find I can see my progress best by adjusting the
      > > light so that it is predominately top and backlit. in fact I will often run
      > > the light so the leading edge of the light square is just at the cutting
      > > line. with this accessory light as well as good overall light in the studio
      > > I can see both detail and shape even if close up optical glasses are used.
      > >
      > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Chris Ghent <cghent@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Lighting is so often initiated by buying hardware, here is a post I put
      > > > here some time ago to help think about the effect you are trying to
      > > achieve.
      > > >
      > > > > As one who has spent years lighting for film and tv, here is a quick
      > > > > summary of
      > > > > lighting positions and their uses...
      > > > >
      > > > > A light shining from the side will give you a good idea of the shape
      > > of an
      > > > > object.
      > > > > A light shining from behind will show you the separation between
      > > objects.
      > > > > A light from the front will flatten shape and remove separation,
      > > > > leaving you to
      > > > > detect distance and shape by colour difference or shade of black and
      > > > > white.
      > > > >
      > > > > This is relevant to machining in that a light placed anywhere near
      > > > > your point of
      > > > > view will make it hard to detect where things are. A good example of
      > > > > this is
      > > > > trying to work through one of those large magnifying lights with a
      > > > > toroidal neon
      > > > > strip. Perspective is completely gone.
      > > > >
      > > > > Any spindle positioning is easier if there is an element of
      > > > > backlighting in the
      > > > > light. A single light will create dark shadows so you really need two
      > > > > lights to
      > > > > get a valuable setup. One from the rear three quarter and one not
      > > quite as
      > > > > bright from close to the front is a good setup.
      > > > >
      > > > > It is on my list to get a good lighting setup but as it is I usually
      > > > > use the
      > > > > room light as a front light and I have a small LED torch I hold in a
      > > > > backlighting position during delicate manouvres. When I see a couple
      > > > > of good
      > > > > lights with 240v supply I will buy them.
      > > > >
      > > > > If you want a good understanding of the lighting styles I mentioned at
      > > the
      > > > > beginning of this, and a start on the vocabulary of light used by
      > > > > everyone in
      > > > > the film and tv business, find a rooftop position in a city where you
      > > > > have a
      > > > > panoramic view of other buildings in a 180 degree arc from east to
      > > > > west. When
      > > > > the sun is low on the sky you will see the buildings in that quadrant
      > > > > are very
      > > > > easy to distinguish from one another in terms of distance. This is
      > > > > backlight.
      > > > > The buildings in the opposite direction will be a jumble of colour,
      > > > > but you
      > > > > could imagine them being a 2d cutout. This is front light. In between
      > > > > the shapes
      > > > > of the buildings, which will be in side lighting, will be very
      > > > > obvious. You can
      > > > > do this well with trees also.
      > > > >
      > > > > More than I meant to write...
      > > >
      > > > Based on this understanding the lighting setup I would most like would
      > > > be two lights hung from a ring around the spindle and about 6" out,
      > > > which could be easily slid around the ring to adjust the shadows.
      > > >
      > > > Best
      > > >
      > > > Chris
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
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