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Re: Adding extra Z height ?

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  • Don
    Paul, close inspection of the existing dove tail shows it is 2 1/4 wide. Actually one is 2.241 wide one end and 2.242 on the other. this is a bare aluminum
    Message 1 of 39 , Jul 1, 2012
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      Paul, close inspection of the existing dove tail shows it is 2 1/4" wide. Actually one is 2.241" wide one end and 2.242 on the other. this is a bare aluminum one that looks to be an extrusion. This is the orginal one. The second is black anodized aluminum, with both ends at 2.249" Both have a 0.050",best I can tell, 90 degree edge, then the 45 taper. Keeping this in mind, V blocks should work very well A 2 2/4" piece of CRS with the edge dressed of burs clamped into V block should give a good setup. I think your idea of cutting with the side of the mill vs facing off the part is probably a better approach. Once the V blocks were properly aligned to the table, You could just mill the edge until you have the 0.050" lip, the flip the work end for end and do it again.

      I don't think finish is an issue as the dove tail plates are not an exact fit to the head stocks to start with. The angles were off by a couple degrees on one match I looked at. You can see the witness marks from where the head was locked and moved on the bare aluminum one and the contact line is very narrow. A bright light shown down dove tail confirms that just the bottom edge of the head stock grove is clamping on the dove tail plate. As this is a sliding way, but a clamp, I think any reasonably smooth finish would be just fine as long as the 45" were parallel.

      As an after though, I fit both plates to a lathe carriage. That fit is exact, so the uneven fit I saw with the head stocks must be the result of tightening down the head stock, and slightly spreading the dove tail. In any case, a clamp fit is all you need so it shouldn't be a problem.





      --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Paul J. Ste. Marie" <taig@...> wrote:
      >
      > On 6/30/2012 11:17 AM, Don wrote:
      > > If my friend can't do it on his Bridgeport, I'll pick up a set of
      > > 45Degree blocks from Use-Enco and use them to set the angle and then
      > > skim the stock with an end mill or maybe better yet a fly cutter. I
      > > need to get one of them anyway.
      >
      > I'd use the side of the end mill, at least for the finishing passes.
      > Otherwise, getting the sides of the dovetail parallel will be very
      > difficult. Any bur or other irregularity in the sharp edge of the
      > dovetail will throw the sides out of kilter when you flip it to cut the
      > second side. Using the side of the mill means that the dovetailed edge
      > will be flat on the table.
      >
      > It struck me that since you don't need to cut the inside corner of the
      > dovetail (it's formed by the plate and the way), you can use a chamfer
      > mill to cut the dovetail, which give you more usable height at the same
      > diameter.
      >
    • Don
      Turns out I ve got a drawer full of that style cutters, and a a couple different size fly cutters, but I m going to have to a tool holder for the for the old
      Message 39 of 39 , Jul 6, 2012
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        Turns out I've got a drawer full of that style cutters, and a a couple different size fly cutters, but I'm going to have to a tool holder for the for the old style head. All of mine have 1/2" or 3/4" shanks.

        The V blocks arrived yesterday. I'm still getting my head around a setup that will hold the new dove tail rough to the blocks for cutting. I'm leaning towards making a pair of fixtures I can bolt to the bed, and they will have a 45 degree face that I can bolt to. I'll drill and counter bore 8 holes in the plate first to match the 8 on the Z slide. I can set up the V blocks and using some long parallel bars from way way back when. get the blocks aligned to the X axis and locked down on the bed. Then put the two fixtures in place, Hummm four will be better, one on either side of each V block so when I snug down the plate, it doesn't introduce a bow to it. That will pull the plate tight to one side of the V. I've still got to get my head around the pulling it to the other side, IE the bottom of the V





        --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Paul J. Ste. Marie" <taig@...> wrote:
        >
        > On 7/5/2012 4:13 PM, Gaston Gagnon wrote:
        > > You probably mean this:
        > > http://www.amazon.com/American-Carbide-Tool-Carbide-Tipped-Straight/dp/B001F8890O
        > >
        > >> You want an "AL-4" brazed bit in a standard fly cut head. Amazon has
        > >> them for $8.30: http://amzn.com/B001F8890O.
        >
        > Either one works, unless your email client added the period to the URL.
        > These are all equally good alternatives:
        >
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/American-Carbide-Tool-Carbide-Tipped-Straight/dp/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://amzn.com/B001F8890O
        >
        > Oh, and this works, too :)
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/Great-Tool-For-Taig-Flycutters/dp/B001F8890O
        >
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