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Re: [taigtools] Re: Adding extra Z height ?

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  • Steve Wan
    Hi Tony Thanks! Sparked on another new project to improve my mill z axis :) Will be getting a steel plate 15mm thick by 2 width, mill a step at the aluminium
    Message 1 of 39 , Jun 30, 2012
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      Hi Tony

      Thanks! Sparked on another new project to improve my mill z axis :)

      Will be getting a steel plate 15mm thick by 2" width, mill a step at
      the aluminium column, bolt the plate and bolt the mill bed as
      well...this will add up to another 2" higher.

      Steve W.

      On 7/1/12, Paul J. Ste. Marie <taig@...> wrote:
      > On 6/30/2012 11:17 AM, Don wrote:
      >> If my friend can't do it on his Bridgeport, I'll pick up a set of
      >> 45Degree blocks from Use-Enco and use them to set the angle and then
      >> skim the stock with an end mill or maybe better yet a fly cutter. I
      >> need to get one of them anyway.
      >
      > I'd use the side of the end mill, at least for the finishing passes.
      > Otherwise, getting the sides of the dovetail parallel will be very
      > difficult. Any bur or other irregularity in the sharp edge of the
      > dovetail will throw the sides out of kilter when you flip it to cut the
      > second side. Using the side of the mill means that the dovetailed edge
      > will be flat on the table.
      >
      > It struck me that since you don't need to cut the inside corner of the
      > dovetail (it's formed by the plate and the way), you can use a chamfer
      > mill to cut the dovetail, which give you more usable height at the same
      > diameter.
      >
    • Don
      Turns out I ve got a drawer full of that style cutters, and a a couple different size fly cutters, but I m going to have to a tool holder for the for the old
      Message 39 of 39 , Jul 6, 2012
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        Turns out I've got a drawer full of that style cutters, and a a couple different size fly cutters, but I'm going to have to a tool holder for the for the old style head. All of mine have 1/2" or 3/4" shanks.

        The V blocks arrived yesterday. I'm still getting my head around a setup that will hold the new dove tail rough to the blocks for cutting. I'm leaning towards making a pair of fixtures I can bolt to the bed, and they will have a 45 degree face that I can bolt to. I'll drill and counter bore 8 holes in the plate first to match the 8 on the Z slide. I can set up the V blocks and using some long parallel bars from way way back when. get the blocks aligned to the X axis and locked down on the bed. Then put the two fixtures in place, Hummm four will be better, one on either side of each V block so when I snug down the plate, it doesn't introduce a bow to it. That will pull the plate tight to one side of the V. I've still got to get my head around the pulling it to the other side, IE the bottom of the V





        --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Paul J. Ste. Marie" <taig@...> wrote:
        >
        > On 7/5/2012 4:13 PM, Gaston Gagnon wrote:
        > > You probably mean this:
        > > http://www.amazon.com/American-Carbide-Tool-Carbide-Tipped-Straight/dp/B001F8890O
        > >
        > >> You want an "AL-4" brazed bit in a standard fly cut head. Amazon has
        > >> them for $8.30: http://amzn.com/B001F8890O.
        >
        > Either one works, unless your email client added the period to the URL.
        > These are all equally good alternatives:
        >
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/American-Carbide-Tool-Carbide-Tipped-Straight/dp/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F8890O
        >
        > http://amzn.com/B001F8890O
        >
        > Oh, and this works, too :)
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/Great-Tool-For-Taig-Flycutters/dp/B001F8890O
        >
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