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Re: Sherline DC motor and speed control unit

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  • lhbakeland
    The weigh shouldn t matter. Id yours is a newer Taig, the T-slot would be in the back of the headstock. It mounts with the Taig T-muts just fine with no
    Message 1 of 46 , Feb 6, 2011
      The weigh shouldn't matter. Id yours is a newer Taig, the T-slot would be in the back of the headstock. It mounts with the Taig T-muts just fine with no modification. The Sherline tailstock is worth at least $40-50 on the market. In fact, I'll buy it from you, if you would like. You would be saving a lot of hassle, since belt guards and mounting for the speed control are included. Other than boring the spindle motor pulley, everything would fit perfectly off the shelf.



      --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Johnny" <EDAVIS93@...> wrote:
      > Thanks Leo. Mounting the motor on the headstock would seem to be a great way to go. My taig lathe is only a few years old. I guess that is the new stayle headstock. I have never had a sherline motor so dont know about the weight. I have wonderd in the past if the weight of the motor would effect the lathe headstock in some way. Must the headstock be drilled and taped or can the side "T" slot utilized. Seems like quarter inch square nuts and 10-32 machine screws would work. Then again, I have never even seen the setup. As noted, my intension was to utilize taig pullys ans I already have a spare set and just mount the motor on the board. Looking $300. bucks to go with the whole sherline setup. The basic motor and speed control is only $210.
      > Thanks,
      > Johnny
      > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "lhbakeland" <digitaltorque@> wrote:
      > >
      > > The entire Sherline speed control ans pulley set along with the belt and pulleys with its motor bracket will mount directly on the later models of the Taig lathe with a mino modification to the spindle pulley. I have the complete Sherline set mounted onto my Taig mill. It is just wonderful. Rather than buying the parts piecemeal, I'd buy the Sherline complete headstock unit and sell off the part that you won't need, mainly the headstock without the spindle pulley. Basically the main modification would be just boring out the spindle pulley to go onto the Taig spindle. The convirsion is so simple, I wonder why no one else has done it before. It operates exactly like the Sherline. All the accessories work as they do before on the Taig. There are no usability issues.
      > >
      > > Regards,
      > >
      > > Leo
      > >
      > > --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, "Johnny" <EDAVIS93@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > I am going to order the Sherline DC Motor and Speed Control unit (PN-33050)for my taig lathe. I have posted this subject before, but, It has been so long since then that I have forgotten what information I was given. As noted I am going to order the basic motor and speed contol. It comes with a pully, but, I think it was Toney that clued me in on using standard taig pullys and belt. Can any one out there refresh my memory! I think a bushing had to be made to adapt the smaller sherline shaft to the taig pully. Is this correct. Do I need ot order any kind of a braket with the motor. Seems I read that sherline had a braket that would serve to mount the motor. I intend to mount the motor on the base board and not the lathe head stock. Any advice on this (for the second time) would sure help. Also, what kind of low and high speed range can I expect to get using the taig pullies.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > >
      > >
    • Johnny
      Thanks Stan. Thats alot of info. Bottom line is I just want to be able to part mild steal,brass,aluiminum one inch in dia. and smaller. I would think that if
      Message 46 of 46 , Feb 19, 2011
        Thanks Stan. Thats alot of info. Bottom line is I just want to be able to part mild steal,brass,aluiminum one inch in dia. and smaller. I would think that if the speed is around a hundred RPM one could part above listed materials of said dia. Ofcourse, I am speculating. The only thing I know for sure is at 500RPM one inch leaded steel does not part without a great deal of vibration. I am still a little unsure as to weather I will only utilize the sherline motor or go for the entire headstock assymbly. I have two taig lathes. One has the new power feed and one (my first) without. When I got the new taig lathe with power feed I utilized the motor (stock taig motor) from the old lathe. It is the old lathe that I intend to set up with the sherline motor. For general work I find the stock taig drive with power feed great. So, I figure I can utilize it as is and switch chucks with work intalled over to the older lathe with varible speed when low speed, high torque is needed. Seems like a good plan,but, I guess only time or those with other experiance will tell.


        --- In taigtools@yahoogroups.com, Stan Stocker <skstocker@...> wrote:
        > Hi Johnny,
        > The Sherline has a slightly larger pulley on the spindle. Sherline
        > specifies the usable lathe RPM range to be 70 - 2800 RPM. The low speed
        > actually is usable, so I'll ballpark a Taig set up with Taig pulleys on
        > a Sherline motor will get down to around 100 to 125 RPM.
        > Sherline pulley ratios are approximately 4:1 for the low speed torque
        > belt position and 2:1 for the high speed belt position. IIRC, the Taig
        > low RPM spec is 500 for a 1725 motor, so the existing pulley set will
        > get you close but not quite down to 70.
        > On small lathes if you really need very low speeds you may have to bite
        > the bullet and go with a jack shaft setup as is common with watchmakers
        > lathes. I don't think there's enough meat in the small lathe spindles
        > to pull off a traditional back gear setup, more importantly to me is
        > that it wouldn't give you anything a jackshaft doesn't, and would be a
        > large amount of work! An alternative drive would be to go with a servo
        > motor and controller, although this is an expensive or careful shopping
        > option. Never done this one myself, but some have done this.
        > If you have to do lots of slow speed work, and don't mind giving up
        > higher speeds you can always make up a single groove pulley set to
        > accommodate your needs. A four inch diameter pulley would fit without
        > having to remove the carriage stop rod, with the stop rod off a stock
        > Taig has enough room to have a 9 inch diameter pulley. With a 3/4 inch
        > driving pulley you would have a 12:1 ratio. Probably be able to turn
        > with good torque down to around 20 RPM.
        > With a continuously variable motor, probably a three step pulley could
        > cover the entire range for not too much extra work. This would allow
        > both the lowest Sherline speeds or lower, and well as allowing the 5K
        > speed Taig supports. Not used all the time, but occasionally nice for
        > polishing. Not sure I'd try this with a 9 inch pulley, but with a four
        > inch largest pulley it would be workable. A nine inch pulley running a
        > 5K would be just a bit too spooky for me :-)
        > If you rarely need a really low speed you can always just add a
        > handwheel to the outboard end of the headstock. To do persnickety stuff
        > cozy to a shoulder sometimes I use the WW closer handwheel or hand pull
        > the belt to turn the spindle very slowly while looking through a loupe.
        > Only suitable for very fine cuts, but it you're hogging waste you're not
        > likely to be viewing the cut under higher magnification.
        > Take care,
        > Stan
        > On 02/18/2011 11:26 PM, Johnny wrote:
        > > Thanks for all the input on the sherline motor conversion. I am leaning toward using the stock taig pully's. I have a spare and It will be less expensive than the entire sherline headstock assymbly. Can someone tell me what the low end speeds will be with taig pullys on both motor and headstock? What is the lowest speed I can expect? Will this low speed give good torque for parting?
        > >
        > > Thanks again.
        > >
        > > Johnny
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