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RE: [taigtools] Quick sanity check...

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  • Tony Jeffree
    Mike - I guess the first question is whether the bevel is needed to be accurate or whether its one of those that looks about right exercises. If the latter,
    Message 1 of 8 , Sep 30, 2009
      Mike -

      I guess the first question is whether the bevel is needed to be accurate or whether its
      one of those "that looks about right" exercises. If the latter, then you might find it
      easier to use a cruder technique - do the bevel on a belt sander, for example, where you
      can see the result and adjust accordingly.

      Regards,
      Tony


      -----Original Message-----
      From: taigtools@yahoogroups.com [mailto:taigtools@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike
      Nicewonger
      Sent: 01 October 2009 03:28
      To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [taigtools] Quick sanity check...

      Ok, I'm not really sane...

      I need to mill a bevel on the edge of a brass bar. My trusty
      Chesterfield straight edge tells me the bar is not straight. Should I
      take a light pass with an end mill to make that edge straight first?
      Then indicate the bar so it is aligned?

      The bar is about 10 inches long and will be clamped to the table with
      a set of known matched blocks to space it off the table a safe
      distance to cut the edges.

      --
      Mike N

      As I get older I think more and more about the hereafter.
      I walk into a room, and think, 'now what was it that I'm here after?'




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    • Mike Nicewonger
      I m finding myself unable to sleep tonight... ... .250 x .375 The bevel (30 deg) will be cut into the narrow edge (. 250 edge) I don t have the end numbers
      Message 2 of 8 , Oct 1, 2009
        I'm finding myself unable to sleep tonight...

        On Oct 1, 2009, at 2:18 AM, Dean wrote:

        > Tell us the other two dimensions of the bar, Mike. Knowing how big
        > a piece we have to work with may bring up some clamping solutions.

        .250" x .375" The bevel (30 deg) will be cut into the narrow edge (.
        250 edge) I don't have the end numbers handy but I do remember the
        thin dim will end up at ~.200"

        > You may be looking at doing something like clamping two sides in
        > order to mill an initial flat on one surface to get the ball
        > rolling. It might not be best to actually try to clamp it flat to
        > the mill table, but to squeeze the sides of the piece only enough
        > to hold it, while not necessarily trying to squeeze it flat. Could
        > tale a couple of rotations to end up with a square piece.

        I need to have a look at the other edges before I make this more
        complex than it needs to be.

        --
        Mike N

        The only free lunch is in the mouse trap. If you are the second mouse.
      • Mike Nicewonger
        Accuracy matters on this part. ... -- Mike N As I get older I think more and more about the hereafter. I walk into a room, and think, now what was it that I m
        Message 3 of 8 , Oct 1, 2009
          Accuracy matters on this part.

          On Oct 1, 2009, at 2:31 AM, Tony Jeffree wrote:

          > I guess the first question is whether the bevel is needed to be
          > accurate or whether its
          > one of those "that looks about right" exercises. If the latter,
          > then you might find it
          > easier to use a cruder technique - do the bevel on a belt sander,
          > for example, where you
          > can see the result and adjust accordingly.

          --
          Mike N

          As I get older I think more and more about the hereafter.
          I walk into a room, and think, 'now what was it that I'm here after?'
        • Tony Jeffree
          ...in which case, your only option is to start by bending/machining the piece till it is straight. Not as straightforward as it sounds - as has been observed,
          Message 4 of 8 , Oct 1, 2009
            ...in which case, your only option is to start by bending/machining the piece till it is
            straight. Not as straightforward as it sounds - as has been observed, as soon as you clamp
            the material you are likely to cause it to flex.

            One approach that can work well with brass is to soft solder it to a sub-plate (also of
            brass, or something that will take soft solder) that is known to be flat & won't deflect
            when you clamp it to the mill table. You can then machine the bar as you desire, and
            release it by re-flowing the solder when you're done. The solder can be cleaned off
            afterwards.

            Regards,
            Tony


            -----Original Message-----
            From: taigtools@yahoogroups.com [mailto:taigtools@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike
            Nicewonger
            Sent: 01 October 2009 08:06
            To: taigtools@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [taigtools] Quick sanity check...

            Accuracy matters on this part.

            On Oct 1, 2009, at 2:31 AM, Tony Jeffree wrote:

            > I guess the first question is whether the bevel is needed to be
            > accurate or whether its
            > one of those "that looks about right" exercises. If the latter,
            > then you might find it
            > easier to use a cruder technique - do the bevel on a belt sander,
            > for example, where you
            > can see the result and adjust accordingly.

            --
            Mike N

            As I get older I think more and more about the hereafter.
            I walk into a room, and think, 'now what was it that I'm here after?'




            ------------------------------------

            To Post a message, send it to:
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            To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
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