Re: Taig Lathe and Mill Cutting Capacities
- from the sizes you are suggesting I think perhaps you should be looking for something along the size of a Bridgeport milling machine, would do all you want/need in one operation.
--- In email@example.com, "noisillator" <tech.writer@...> wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Ken Cline <cline@> wrote:
> > That is an oversized piece for a Taig mill, and I don't see how you'll
> > reach all the edges with fewer than four setups. I would probably try
> > to get the long edges of your plate straight and parallel first. If
> > your mill has 12" of X-axis travel, you might just be able to get the
> > edge without moving the plate, and if there is a little left over, you
> > can always knock of the excess with a file or sandpaper on a flat
> > surface.
> Well, I probably should have used a somewhat different example, because the panels might actually be 14" x 8" or 16" x 10". They need to be cut completely with the mill, because in some situations, the edges will be visible. These are panels that I'll be using to construct heavy vacuum tube amplifiers. So far, I've been building prototypes only, and that work has been done with .063" stock on my router table. The final versions need to be thicker, at least 0.125", and some will be 0.250". My router has the power to do this, but it's part of my table saw system. The saw has a sliding table that makes straight line work simple, but the runout is not really appropriate for metal working. In addition, the guts of the saw are all located generally below the work, and I have no doubt these metal chips will eventually ruin the various mechanisms.
> One thing I'm considering is the possibility of somehow attaching a fence to the mill table. Because much of the equipment I'm planning will be similarly sized, I don't necessarily need this to be adjustable. If it's not too complex, I could build a new fence for each group of projects. In practice, I would rough a panel to size, then slide each edge along the fence for a smoothing cut. After that, a pass on my table sander would put a nice satin-like finish on the edges, and I could send the panel out for anodizing.
> Does this sound like a reasonable approach? Any ideas on how I might attach a fence to the table?
> > Just thinking out loud here, but how about using a hole saw to cut the
> > circumference, then running an end mill to clean out the interior of
> > the pocket? Keep in mind that the end mill will pull upwards on the
> > stock, so be sure to clamp it down near the pocket.
> Someone else has also suggested multiple cuts with a boring bar. Either technique should work for my purposes. What would you use for clamping panels like this down to the table?
I like the taig power feed alot it leaves a very good finish, it also looks
like it will stand up to alot of use. the gears in the gearbox are steel,
the drive between the headstock and powerfeed gearbox is a rubber band which
is quite sufficient I have yet to break one after about 50 hours of use. it
is nearly impossible to get it to slip probably because the gearbox has
something around 37ñ1 reduction there is a nice sturdy spring which serves
as a coupler between the gearbox and leadscrew. This does not sacrifice
performance and allows enough flexibility to cope with small variances in
alignment.in general it is a very well engineered product.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnny" <EDAVIS93@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 11:00 AM
Subject: [taigtools] Taig Power Feed
> Now that the taig power feed has been available for a few months I wonder
> how those who have it like it. I am thinking about getting the factory
> assymble power feed lathe bed, carrage and drive. I intend to mount my
> current headstock, crossfeed and tailstock on the new bed. The power feed
> assymbly will cost about $200. bucks.
> To Post a message, send it to:
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
> Let the chips fly!
> Yahoo! Groups Links