just an update. I found a t-bar diamond dresser for a reasonable price
from a wood shop supply house ($14 for the tool $21 including
shipping :/) Haven't had to use it yet, but I did get a chnace to use
the grinder to modify the stock boring bar tool for my moto tool post
Just wanted to close this thread for future reference.
--- In email@example.com, "jaydmdigital" <jayandwendy@c...> wrote:
> Don, a very well explained response. I appreciate the time you took to
> post it on my behalf. I will look around for the t-bar type, but I've
> seen some pictures where users have made a guide collar to run along
> the tool post ... that's seems like a quick and simple solution :)
> Thank you very much,
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Don Rogers <Don@C...> wrote:
> > >Enco has over 24 diamond dressers.
> > I'll get back on this
> > >Also, I've read on another forum
> > >that a diamond dresser not recommended as it can ruin a wheel quickly
> > >in the wrong hands by removing too much material.
> > That like saying that you should always use a butter knife to cut
> > steak because you might cut yourself with a really sharp knife. A
> > dresser will give you the best finish on a wheel. Period. I've been
> > dressing grinding wheels since 1960. I'll never forget the first
> time a
> > guy came up with a diamond and cut the wheel I was battling with
> back to
> > true in a couple swipes. I was hooked forever
> > >The owner of Sherline also advises a star tool
> > I don't know why. If you look at how a star dresser works vs a
> > there isn't a good argument for a star. The diamond works like a
> > tool. It machines the surface of the wheel. The star dressers work
> like a
> > thousand little chisels and hammers, banging away at the surface.
> > chip out hunks of the wheel surface. When there is some vibration
> in the
> > wheel, they amplify it, vs removing it like a diamond dresser will
> do. The
> > first couple of dressings on a wheel with a star dresser will seem
> to work
> > OK, but as you progress, the out of round keeps getting worse and
> > With a diamond dresser, you can get a very smooth surface is just
> one or
> > two passes.
> > Back to the Enco dressers.
> > For hand work, the T-handle Dresser is the easiest to use and will
> give a
> > good, even wheel surface. It is not as aggressive as the single
> > dressers. The price for these in my Enco catalog was a shock. I
> > these in my Lapidary store for $25. Alpha Supply now sells them for
> $28 in
> > their online catalog.
> > http://alpha-supply.com/catalog/pages.php?page=224
> > Look for T-bar dresser down the page a bunch.
> > You might find one less expensive looking at Bombay Bazaar, a deep
> > lapidary supplier. I have no experience with them though and don't
> have a
> > URL for them.
> > If you go with a single Point dresser, a 1/4Ct will do you just fine
> > finishing off a wheel. The biggest problem with these is holding
> > while moving them across the face of the wheel. If you rest on the
> > is in good shape, and adjusted well, you should be able to use it to
> > the single point across the wheel. Depending on your dexterity,
> > holding the dresser tight and using a finger as a stop on the rest
> > work. For more precise work, an adjustable clamp on the dresser that
> > on the back of the rest works well. A 1/4Ct dresser is only $4.90,
> so you
> > can experiment with it a bit. The only ways to damage a single point
> > dresser is to 1. Bang them into the wheel so hard that you knock the
> > diamond out of it's mounting. Your hand is going to hurt doing
> this. and
> > 2. Overheat them to the point that you loosen the bonding holding the
> > diamond to the shank. Really hard to do unless you just hog the
> wheel off
> > with no coolant.
> > A final approach is to use either a Silicon Carbide or Boron Carbide
> > dressing stick. These are great for touching up a surface, not for
> > establishing one.
> > Don