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Re: [sparrow_ev] Re: sparrow won't go

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  • Chris Worthington
    ... This is only true for some Sparrows. I believe there are 3 or 4 different electrical schemes for when and if the battery compartment fans come on. Mine
    Message 1 of 9 , Mar 1, 2004
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      >
      > The "cooling fans" only come on during charging, when the power cord
      > is plugged in through the charging port.

      This is only true for some Sparrows. I believe there are 3 or 4 different
      electrical schemes for when and if the battery compartment fans come on.
      Mine don't run at all.

      this is all covered in some posts from several years ago - go to the
      archives and search for fans.

      Chris
      V212
    • Ryan
      ok here is the word. i got the car to drive. by jumping around the enable relay. and teh reason the enable relay wouldn t pick up is because there isn t
      Message 2 of 9 , Mar 1, 2004
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        ok here is the word.

        i got the car to drive. by jumping around the enable relay. and teh reason the enable relay
        wouldn't pick up is because there isn't enough voltage coming from the little white DCP
        box velcrowed under the hood. there is full battery pack voltage and 12 VDC going in.

        The output to the enable relay is where things get weird. when I turn the key to on the
        output of the white box to the enable relay is 3.3VDC and the (ing. on) light comes on.
        but if i turn the key to start the voltage will read 3.3VDC for a moment then drop to
        2.2VDC in the start position. when i let go and the key returns to the on position and the
        voltage stays at 2.2VDC, the (Ign. light) never turns on no matter how long i hold the key
        to start. The main contactor comes on instantly as soon as i turn the key toward start.

        the wire from the white box the the enable relay checks out, and operates normally.

        ideas? comments? death threats?

        -Ryan
      • Peter Carpenter
        I installed a 12v alarm battery in parallel with my dcp - it ensures that I always have 12v. take out the windshield washer bottle and mount it there. Peter
        Message 3 of 9 , Mar 1, 2004
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          I installed a 12v alarm battery in parallel with my dcp - it ensures
          that I always have 12v. take out the windshield washer bottle and mount
          it there.
          Peter

          Ryan wrote on 3/1/04, 6:44 PM:

          > ok here is the word.
          >
          > i got the car to drive. by jumping around the enable relay. and teh
          > reason the enable relay
          > wouldn't pick up is because there isn't enough voltage coming from the
          > little white DCP
          > box velcrowed under the hood. there is full battery pack voltage and
          > 12 VDC going in.
          >
          > The output to the enable relay is where things get weird. when I turn
          > the key to on the
          > output of the white box to the enable relay is 3.3VDC and the (ing.
          > on) light comes on.
          > but if i turn the key to start the voltage will read 3.3VDC for a
          > moment then drop to
          > 2.2VDC in the start position. when i let go and the key returns to
          > the on position and the
          > voltage stays at 2.2VDC, the (Ign. light) never turns on no matter how
          > long i hold the key
          > to start. The main contactor comes on instantly as soon as i turn the
          > key toward start.
          >
          > the wire from the white box the the enable relay checks out, and
          > operates normally.
          >
          > ideas? comments? death threats?
          >
          > -Ryan
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
        • Rick
          The way I see it is placing a battery in where you should have X voltage is not finding the true culprit. Every Sparrow I have had in my garage has had
          Message 4 of 9 , Mar 1, 2004
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            The way I see it is placing a battery in where you should have X voltage is not finding the true culprit. Every Sparrow I have had in my garage has had similar issues though no two completely the same all issues fell back to the very sloppy way Corbin built then fixed cars back to the shop for repairs (BAD OR IN SOME CASES NO GROUND) I had even found a car that was nothing but skotch locks for grounds and many were no good. If the ground is poor this could be causing The large drop you are seeing, only as a test to check your signal to the Controller, set 12v on the line if the car runs , great (as you did) now we need to find out why the 12v is 2 or 3 v. if you like we can check your EVCL to be sure nothing is wrong.

            Did you check the enable signal with the main contactor unplugged? if it is ok 12v then we need to find the bad connection in the loop. My own car was nicknamed Kristine because of strange things happening and all were corrected when we replaced the main grounding system in the car and defanged it. I have also seen a car where the Forward and reverse contactors were wired in series with the indicators on the dash so If the lamp burnt no go!. or in the case of this particular car no ground at the lamp module (car would go forward but not reverse) You can contact me offline if you like.

            My three cents worth.

            Rick


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