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Re: Good News for All and Re: [sparetimegizmos] FP6120 -- Ferrite Beads and 50-pin Female Connectors -- What spec to use?

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  • Yetanotherwinston Smith
    ________________________________ From: Yetanotherwinston Smith To: sparetimegizmos@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wed, June 30, 2010 4:04:28
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 7 2:01 PM
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      ________________________________
      From: Yetanotherwinston Smith <yawinstonsmith@...>
      To: sparetimegizmos@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wed, June 30, 2010 4:04:28 PM
      Subject: Good News for All and Re: [sparetimegizmos] FP6120 -- Ferrite Beads and
      50-pin Female Connectors -- What spec to use?

      AFTER REVIEWING EVERY DEC PDP-8 FP, and considering the threat to my SBC- FP, I
      think I've decided to go with a fairly simple solution I'll draw out if the
      description doesn't work:

      Get a piece of black matte-finish(able) *something* (I'm considering Aluminum,
      plastics, whatever looks good at moment) the length of the FP and 2-4" in
      depth. (see below) and thickness of FP plastic+ @1/2" THEN routing a straight L
      in the new bar deep enough to hold the 2 pieces together in a frame/box when the
      back of the FP is glued (as a last step ) to the rt-hand straight-up of the L
      rout. The new material would hang down below the bottom bar of the L (Oh this is
      difficult to describe - in other words, let in the black bottom bar sufficiently
      at it's top that there's an upright to bond the bottom of the FP plastic to,
      with the new piece ending up flush with the surface of the FP plastic, the
      upright of the L sufficient to form an attachment point without getting in the
      way and the bottom so it can ride flush (remember the L is the TOP of the new
      piece.

      Add a pair of identically-keyed lockswitches, POWER and PANEL LOCK to keep
      things simple and accurate DEC-style except to the E series that used 1
      lockswitch for BOTH functions. Use 4 warm white flat-topped LEDs for POST, which
      can be sanded with the rest of the AL-Plastic the long way, the original finish,
      (of course there were no LEDs in the originals).
      The Straight-8 had this kind of bar, sans LEDs(which I hope will be almost
      invisible after a successful POST) with keylocks L and R sides. The 8/I did the
      same thing (though lamp cutouts were square) 1 over the other on the right hand
      side.
      It was the 8/e that went to 1, 3-position lock drilled into the regular control
      panel, something I don't want to try.

      At that point, decide on box or frame or whatever.
      No time to look for paint yet, -Winston...




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