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Re: I just recieved my dragon 1/72 SATURN V

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  • peterojoe
    Mine isn t sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I m going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick. The
    Message 1 of 7 , Feb 1, 2012
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      Mine isn't sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I'm going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick.

      The black roll patterns appear to be sprayed on, and the smaller markings are most likely tampo printed. The tampo printing on Dragon's 1/400 airliners can be removed with acetone, but I wouldn't recommend that for a plastic model!

      The biggest irritation on my example is the seam on the S-II body. It's totally unfinished, and one side has a step between the halves. By contrast, the S-IVB seam has been finished much better.

      For mounting the Apollo 10 stack, I was able to remove the Saturn's SLA easily. First I gently pressed along the seam from opposite sides of the body, which popped most of the glue joints. Then I gently tapped it against my knee, as if I was breaking a stick but much more gently. That cleanly separated the SLA. The Apollo 10 clear SLA is a loose fit (as is the SM), so I'm going to shim the inside of both ends of the SLA for a tighter fit. I'll also mount the LM on a short rod from the top of the S-IVB tank dome, so there's no risk of the LM sliding off when I remove the SLA.

      I've got the Apollo 7 CSM, which came with an unnecessary HGA, so I stole it. I cut off the rod and replaced it with a piece of brass rod, pointed downward, then attached the assembly to the Apollo 10 CSM.

      Peter

      --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@...> wrote:
      >
      > I just recieved mine and yes, same small things such as seams & missing hi gain antennae on the service module. It has the hole for it exactly the same as the diecast metal 1/72 Lunar approach HOWEVER, on that one the hi gain does NOT swing back but rather the 4 dishes rotate only, the rod does not, so maybe this is why it was left off, it could not be folded under.. pity, it looks bare when you seperate the CSM. ALSO, was everyone elses Rocket body a little sticky or tacky like it needs to be wiped down with something ? what could be used safely without fear of removing the decals IF those ARE decals ?
      > Bert
      >
    • ricardo_apollo@yahoo.com
      Peter: For the dark smudges try wax, but be careful with the painted parts Sent from my “contract free” BlackBerry® smartphone on the WIND network. ...
      Message 2 of 7 , Feb 1, 2012
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        Peter:

        For the dark smudges try wax, but be careful with the painted parts
        Sent from my �contract free� BlackBerry� smartphone on the WIND network.

        -----Original Message-----
        From: "peterojoe" <petero@...>
        Sender: space-modelers@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2012 13:53:22
        To: <space-modelers@yahoogroups.com>
        Reply-To: space-modelers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [space-modelers] Re: I just recieved my dragon 1/72 SATURN V

        Mine isn't sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I'm going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick.

        The black roll patterns appear to be sprayed on, and the smaller markings are most likely tampo printed. The tampo printing on Dragon's 1/400 airliners can be removed with acetone, but I wouldn't recommend that for a plastic model!

        The biggest irritation on my example is the seam on the S-II body. It's totally unfinished, and one side has a step between the halves. By contrast, the S-IVB seam has been finished much better.

        For mounting the Apollo 10 stack, I was able to remove the Saturn's SLA easily. First I gently pressed along the seam from opposite sides of the body, which popped most of the glue joints. Then I gently tapped it against my knee, as if I was breaking a stick but much more gently. That cleanly separated the SLA. The Apollo 10 clear SLA is a loose fit (as is the SM), so I'm going to shim the inside of both ends of the SLA for a tighter fit. I'll also mount the LM on a short rod from the top of the S-IVB tank dome, so there's no risk of the LM sliding off when I remove the SLA.

        I've got the Apollo 7 CSM, which came with an unnecessary HGA, so I stole it. I cut off the rod and replaced it with a piece of brass rod, pointed downward, then attached the assembly to the Apollo 10 CSM.

        Peter

        --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@...> wrote:
        >
        > I just recieved mine and yes, same small things such as seams & missing hi gain antennae on the service module. It has the hole for it exactly the same as the diecast metal 1/72 Lunar approach HOWEVER, on that one the hi gain does NOT swing back but rather the 4 dishes rotate only, the rod does not, so maybe this is why it was left off, it could not be folded under.. pity, it looks bare when you seperate the CSM. ALSO, was everyone elses Rocket body a little sticky or tacky like it needs to be wiped down with something ? what could be used safely without fear of removing the decals IF those ARE decals ?
        > Bert
        >





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • bl_nevada
        So what IS the best way to clean the body ? i feel like it needs to be wiped down & i am still trying to determine if mine is painted or just bare plastic. I
        Message 3 of 7 , Feb 1, 2012
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          So what IS the best way to clean the body ? i feel like it needs to be wiped down & i am still trying to determine if mine is painted or just bare plastic. I want to be very careful around the lettering as I don't want it to come off. I am thinking of puttying the seams a little and painting the seams white, maybe even dry brush so it doesn't stand out in different shades of white. I haven't put mine together yet, how do the stages connect ? do the fit snuggly or will they fall apart when stacked then disturbed ?
          Bert

          --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "peterojoe" <petero@...> wrote:
          >
          > Mine isn't sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I'm going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick.
          >
          > The black roll patterns appear to be sprayed on, and the smaller markings are most likely tampo printed. The tampo printing on Dragon's 1/400 airliners can be removed with acetone, but I wouldn't recommend that for a plastic model!
          >
          > The biggest irritation on my example is the seam on the S-II body. It's totally unfinished, and one side has a step between the halves. By contrast, the S-IVB seam has been finished much better.
          >
          > For mounting the Apollo 10 stack, I was able to remove the Saturn's SLA easily. First I gently pressed along the seam from opposite sides of the body, which popped most of the glue joints. Then I gently tapped it against my knee, as if I was breaking a stick but much more gently. That cleanly separated the SLA. The Apollo 10 clear SLA is a loose fit (as is the SM), so I'm going to shim the inside of both ends of the SLA for a tighter fit. I'll also mount the LM on a short rod from the top of the S-IVB tank dome, so there's no risk of the LM sliding off when I remove the SLA.
          >
          > I've got the Apollo 7 CSM, which came with an unnecessary HGA, so I stole it. I cut off the rod and replaced it with a piece of brass rod, pointed downward, then attached the assembly to the Apollo 10 CSM.
          >
          > Peter
          >
          > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@> wrote:
          > >
          > > I just recieved mine and yes, same small things such as seams & missing hi gain antennae on the service module. It has the hole for it exactly the same as the diecast metal 1/72 Lunar approach HOWEVER, on that one the hi gain does NOT swing back but rather the 4 dishes rotate only, the rod does not, so maybe this is why it was left off, it could not be folded under.. pity, it looks bare when you seperate the CSM. ALSO, was everyone elses Rocket body a little sticky or tacky like it needs to be wiped down with something ? what could be used safely without fear of removing the decals IF those ARE decals ?
          > > Bert
          > >
          >
        • peterojoe
          The white is definitely paint (probably lacquer), not bare plastic. The original Windex with ammonia should remove the gunk. Try it on a q-tip in a less
          Message 4 of 7 , Feb 2, 2012
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            The white is definitely paint (probably lacquer), not bare plastic. The original Windex with ammonia should remove the gunk. Try it on a q-tip in a less obvious location first, just to make sure. Windex should not bother the printed lettering and flags either, but again, try an inconspicuous spot first.

            My stages fit snuggly, as do the F-1 engines. The base has an aluminum tube that goes through the center F-1, then through 2 first stage bulkheads. This holds the stack securely. Even on my not very firm carpet, I can push the stack as much as a diameter off vertical and it'll just plop back upright. Since I have a very inquisitive Siamese cat, I needed to make sure it's tip-proof!

            Be careful if you replace the SLA and CSM though, since the Apollo 10 SLA fits quite loosely on top of the S-IVB.

            Peter

            --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@...> wrote:
            >
            > So what IS the best way to clean the body ? i feel like it needs to be wiped down & i am still trying to determine if mine is painted or just bare plastic. I want to be very careful around the lettering as I don't want it to come off. I am thinking of puttying the seams a little and painting the seams white, maybe even dry brush so it doesn't stand out in different shades of white. I haven't put mine together yet, how do the stages connect ? do the fit snuggly or will they fall apart when stacked then disturbed ?
            > Bert
            >
            > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "peterojoe" <petero@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Mine isn't sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I'm going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick.
            > >
            > > The black roll patterns appear to be sprayed on, and the smaller markings are most likely tampo printed. The tampo printing on Dragon's 1/400 airliners can be removed with acetone, but I wouldn't recommend that for a plastic model!
            > >
            > > The biggest irritation on my example is the seam on the S-II body. It's totally unfinished, and one side has a step between the halves. By contrast, the S-IVB seam has been finished much better.
            > >
            > > For mounting the Apollo 10 stack, I was able to remove the Saturn's SLA easily. First I gently pressed along the seam from opposite sides of the body, which popped most of the glue joints. Then I gently tapped it against my knee, as if I was breaking a stick but much more gently. That cleanly separated the SLA. The Apollo 10 clear SLA is a loose fit (as is the SM), so I'm going to shim the inside of both ends of the SLA for a tighter fit. I'll also mount the LM on a short rod from the top of the S-IVB tank dome, so there's no risk of the LM sliding off when I remove the SLA.
            > >
            > > I've got the Apollo 7 CSM, which came with an unnecessary HGA, so I stole it. I cut off the rod and replaced it with a piece of brass rod, pointed downward, then attached the assembly to the Apollo 10 CSM.
            > >
            > > Peter
            > >
            > > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > I just recieved mine and yes, same small things such as seams & missing hi gain antennae on the service module. It has the hole for it exactly the same as the diecast metal 1/72 Lunar approach HOWEVER, on that one the hi gain does NOT swing back but rather the 4 dishes rotate only, the rod does not, so maybe this is why it was left off, it could not be folded under.. pity, it looks bare when you seperate the CSM. ALSO, was everyone elses Rocket body a little sticky or tacky like it needs to be wiped down with something ? what could be used safely without fear of removing the decals IF those ARE decals ?
            > > > Bert
            > > >
            > >
            >
          • JMChladek@aol.com
            In a message dated 2/2/2012 7:54:09 A.M. Central Standard Time, petero@metrocast.net writes: The white is definitely paint (probably lacquer), not bare
            Message 5 of 7 , Feb 2, 2012
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              In a message dated 2/2/2012 7:54:09 A.M. Central Standard Time,
              petero@... writes:

              The white is definitely paint (probably lacquer), not bare plastic. The
              original Windex with ammonia should remove the gunk. Try it on a q-tip in
              a less obvious location first, just to make sure. Windex should not bother
              the printed lettering and flags either, but again, try an inconspicuous
              spot first.

              My stages fit snuggly, as do the F-1 engines. The base has an aluminum
              tube that goes through the center F-1, then through 2 first stage bulkheads.
              This holds the stack securely. Even on my not very firm carpet, I can
              push the stack as much as a diameter off vertical and it'll just plop back
              upright. Since I have a very inquisitive Siamese cat, I needed to make sure
              it's tip-proof!

              Be careful if you replace the SLA and CSM though, since the Apollo 10 SLA
              fits quite loosely on top of the S-IVB.

              Peter





              I would tack the Apollo 10 SLA on with some white glue. That way it doesn't
              get jostled as easily and usually would stay on even in a minor fall (and
              the glue would make it a little shock proof).

              JMC

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • bl_nevada
              Thanks peter, mine just FEELS like something is on it when you hold the different stages. there are NO marks or anything like that, it just feels like it needs
              Message 6 of 7 , Feb 2, 2012
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                Thanks peter, mine just FEELS like something is on it when you hold the different stages. there are NO marks or anything like that, it just feels like it needs to be wiped off when you hold it, maybe mold release or whatever they used to mask the white parts when spraying the black paint.
                Bert

                --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "peterojoe" <petero@...> wrote:
                >
                > The white is definitely paint (probably lacquer), not bare plastic. The original Windex with ammonia should remove the gunk. Try it on a q-tip in a less obvious location first, just to make sure. Windex should not bother the printed lettering and flags either, but again, try an inconspicuous spot first.
                >
                > My stages fit snuggly, as do the F-1 engines. The base has an aluminum tube that goes through the center F-1, then through 2 first stage bulkheads. This holds the stack securely. Even on my not very firm carpet, I can push the stack as much as a diameter off vertical and it'll just plop back upright. Since I have a very inquisitive Siamese cat, I needed to make sure it's tip-proof!
                >
                > Be careful if you replace the SLA and CSM though, since the Apollo 10 SLA fits quite loosely on top of the S-IVB.
                >
                > Peter
                >
                > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@> wrote:
                > >
                > > So what IS the best way to clean the body ? i feel like it needs to be wiped down & i am still trying to determine if mine is painted or just bare plastic. I want to be very careful around the lettering as I don't want it to come off. I am thinking of puttying the seams a little and painting the seams white, maybe even dry brush so it doesn't stand out in different shades of white. I haven't put mine together yet, how do the stages connect ? do the fit snuggly or will they fall apart when stacked then disturbed ?
                > > Bert
                > >
                > > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "peterojoe" <petero@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Mine isn't sticky/tacky, but it does have dark smudges on some of the pieces. I'm going to try Windex on a paper towel to see if that does the trick.
                > > >
                > > > The black roll patterns appear to be sprayed on, and the smaller markings are most likely tampo printed. The tampo printing on Dragon's 1/400 airliners can be removed with acetone, but I wouldn't recommend that for a plastic model!
                > > >
                > > > The biggest irritation on my example is the seam on the S-II body. It's totally unfinished, and one side has a step between the halves. By contrast, the S-IVB seam has been finished much better.
                > > >
                > > > For mounting the Apollo 10 stack, I was able to remove the Saturn's SLA easily. First I gently pressed along the seam from opposite sides of the body, which popped most of the glue joints. Then I gently tapped it against my knee, as if I was breaking a stick but much more gently. That cleanly separated the SLA. The Apollo 10 clear SLA is a loose fit (as is the SM), so I'm going to shim the inside of both ends of the SLA for a tighter fit. I'll also mount the LM on a short rod from the top of the S-IVB tank dome, so there's no risk of the LM sliding off when I remove the SLA.
                > > >
                > > > I've got the Apollo 7 CSM, which came with an unnecessary HGA, so I stole it. I cut off the rod and replaced it with a piece of brass rod, pointed downward, then attached the assembly to the Apollo 10 CSM.
                > > >
                > > > Peter
                > > >
                > > > --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "bl_nevada" <bl-nevada@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > I just recieved mine and yes, same small things such as seams & missing hi gain antennae on the service module. It has the hole for it exactly the same as the diecast metal 1/72 Lunar approach HOWEVER, on that one the hi gain does NOT swing back but rather the 4 dishes rotate only, the rod does not, so maybe this is why it was left off, it could not be folded under.. pity, it looks bare when you seperate the CSM. ALSO, was everyone elses Rocket body a little sticky or tacky like it needs to be wiped down with something ? what could be used safely without fear of removing the decals IF those ARE decals ?
                > > > > Bert
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
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