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Re: [space-modelers] Problem Painting Resin

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  • JMChladek@aol.com
    In a message dated 6/30/04 12:10:57 PM Central Daylight Time, ... Well, you could try a primer that is a bit hotter . Krylon can be a relatively hot primer
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 1, 2004
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      In a message dated 6/30/04 12:10:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
      ramonrdz@... writes:


      > Hello group
      >
      > I currently working on a couple resin kits from different
      > manufacturers and I'm having problems painting them. Whenever I spray
      > the primer (I'm using Krylon Primer from a spray can), it seems that
      > there are some areas the paint does want to stick to. I get two types
      > of non-stick surface: one is fish eyes and the other are irregular
      > forms (similar to the forms you get when you throw oil on water).
      >
      > I've done the following to prepare the resin parts for painting:
      > Washed with warm water and scrubbed the part using soap and a brush
      > Let the parts soak overnight in "white trim cleaner" for tires (Got
      > this tip from FSM last year)
      > Even sanded the surface slightly.
      >
      > But still I can't get the paint to stick, unless I use a paintbrush
      > but this will leave an uneven surface.
      >
      > Any suggestions?
      >
      > Regards,
      >
      >
      > Ramon
      >

      Well, you could try a primer that is a bit "hotter". Krylon can be a
      relatively hot primer compared to Testors primers due to the solvents it uses (I
      wouldn't primer a resin kit with just Testors stuff personally, Tamiya maybe since
      that is lacquer based). But, some of the spray can primers for cars are really
      hot and might be able to bond better. The lacquer based solvents in the
      primer shouldn't hurt the resin anyway.

      The "fish eyes" tells me that there might be something still outgassing from
      the resin or it absorbed something which is leaching out. So who knows how
      long it might take. If both kits from different manufacturers have the same
      problem, then I have to wonder if it might be related to the "trim cleaner"
      overnight soak. Resin is pourous afterall, so it might have absorbed some chemicals
      from this like a sponge.

      Jay Chladek


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    • Andi Wuestner
      Ramon, I know this problem very well. Soap and warm water do not help very much. I discovered that airbrush cleaner, enemal thinner (I use Revell s Color
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 1, 2004
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        Ramon,

        I know this problem very well. Soap and warm water do not help very
        much. I discovered that airbrush cleaner, enemal thinner (I use
        Revell's "Color Mix") and even turpentine worke very well. After
        removing the release agent with one of these substances, use soap and
        warm water to clean the parts.

        HTH
        Andi
      • B. Nicklas
        I use the Wetley s Bleche White for Whitewall tires and it works great. If that didn t do it for you, try some Easy-Off oven cleaner on the rough spots, scrub
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 1, 2004
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          I use the Wetley's Bleche White for Whitewall tires and it works
          great. If that didn't do it for you, try some Easy-Off oven cleaner on
          the rough spots, scrub a bit, then bathe in the white wall tire
          cleaner another night. Rinse well, and let dry. Hopefully between
          the two, you'll be left with bone-dry resin parts ready for primer.
          Remember to rinse off the tire cleaner, otherwis eyou end up with the
          release agent gone, but now a touch of soap remaining, that might
          cause the "fish-eye".
          Brian

          --- In space-modelers@yahoogroups.com, "ramonfrg" <ramonrdz@h...> wrote:
          > Hello group
          >
          > I currently working on a couple resin kits from different
          > manufacturers and I'm having problems painting them. Whenever I spray
          > the primer (I'm using Krylon Primer from a spray can), it seems that
          > there are some areas the paint does want to stick to. I get two types
          > of non-stick surface: one is fish eyes and the other are irregular
          > forms (similar to the forms you get when you throw oil on water).
          >
          > I've done the following to prepare the resin parts for painting:
          > Washed with warm water and scrubbed the part using soap and a brush
          > Let the parts soak overnight in "white trim cleaner" for tires (Got
          > this tip from FSM last year)
          > Even sanded the surface slightly.
          >
          > But still I can't get the paint to stick, unless I use a paintbrush
          > but this will leave an uneven surface.
          >
          > Any suggestions?
          >
          > Regards,
          >
          >
          > Ramon
        • ramonfrg
          Thanks to everybody who offered suggestions. Now I ve got plenty of ways to fix the problem of paint not sticking to resin. Thanks again Ramon
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 1, 2004
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            Thanks to everybody who offered suggestions. Now I've got plenty of
            ways to fix the problem of paint not sticking to resin.


            Thanks again



            Ramon
          • gkwhisler@aol.com
            Ramon, Please let us know what you do and how it works - I m interested because I ve just started to work with resin and you never know when I may run into the
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 1, 2004
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              Ramon,
              Please let us know what you do and how it works - I'm interested because I've
              just started to work with resin and you never know when I may run into the
              same problem!
              Gregg


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