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Re: [southbend10k] Re: New member has questions about his first lathe, a 10K

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  • guycad@netzero.com
    From readings I made on one of my SB 10K UMD, it corresponds to a similar wear pattern. With a 20 mandrel between centers, I get 0.0025 radius variations.
    Message 1 of 28 , Dec 26, 2012
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      From readings I made on one of my SB 10K UMD, it corresponds to a similar wear pattern.   With a 20" mandrel between centers, I get 0.0025" radius variations.   This means that I can expect to turn within 0.005" diameter.   (this is worst case scenario like if I was using collet attachment)
      If I could find a shop with a big surface grinder, I would get it re-ground  (the bed I got is flame hardened and my carbide scraper just slides on the surface)  In the meanwhile, I have a rear drive 10K that I rebuilt from A to Z, including re-scraping the bed ways , cross slide and taper attachment
      If ever you plan on get your bed re-ground, ensure you get the saddle scraped against the bed after.  Your saddle may need to be rebuilt with Turcite.  (Turcite is a hard polymer used in machine tool building and re-conditioning that can be scraped.  I have not found yet a place that sells this stuff in Canada)
      You will ikely find that the most worn surface is the front inner way.
      Guy Cadrin

      ---------- Original Message ----------
      From: "Daryl" <djorud@...>
      To: southbend10k@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [southbend10k] Re: New member has questions about his first lathe, a 10K
      Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 17:39:39 -0000


      Just obtained a precision 24" straight edge a few days ago, and made it out to the unheated shop (10F degrees) this morning to measure the about of wear on the carriage ways. Using a feeler gauge, the front carriage way has no more than .0050 of dip worn into it, that being about 10" out from the headstock. The rear carriage way has no more than .0025 of dip at the same distance from the headstock. I did not remove the carriage when checking, but I do not suspect there is a great deal more wear on the ways when the carriage is fully to the right, as there are still faint scrape signs at this location. Without removing the carriage and checking it for wear, too, I cannot give an overall assessment of combined wear. Regardless, I am going to be content for the time being and give the entire lathe a good cleaning and follow SB recommendations when lubricating it. From what I have read on various forums about this topic of bed wear over the past couple of weeks, it seems that this lathe has "moderate" wear at most, so should serve my hobbyist use of it for a considerable period of time. Thanks for all who have offered their advice and opinions. It has all been most helpful. Next part of the learning curve is learning how to grind cutting tools properly...

      --- In southbend10k@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <btdtrf@...> wrote:
      > That is no way to check wear.
      > The force if cutting causes the saddle to be forced down onto the front ways.
      > You cannot measure bed wear with a mike. Use a precision ground straight edge.
      > Use the lathe as is and see how it performs.
      > I have an 0.018" dip on the tail stock ways of my Heavy 10 and use it every day.
      > Jim B.
      > Sent from my Razr  DROID Maxx


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