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Re: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop

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  • jwh
    Bob don’t grind it off, just applying a little heat will break the bond Jim From: Robert Hansberger Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 3:46 PM To:
    Message 1 of 13 , Jan 8, 2011
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      Bob
      don’t grind it off, just applying a little heat will break the bond
      Jim
       
      Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 3:46 PM
      Subject: Re: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop
       
       

      On my 12 x 36 cross slide I superglued an allen wrench in the center screw with the arm roughly horizontal toward the operator. On the finish cut I just turn it approx a quarter turn. When done just pull it back to first position. It has been working great for years. The thought came up what if I have to disassemble it. Worst case scenario, grind the wrench off and replace the screw. But that has not had to happen.
       
      Bob

      --- On Sat, 1/8/11, anthrhodes@... <anthrhodes@...> wrote:

      From: anthrhodes@... <anthrhodes@...>
      Subject: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop
      To: southbend10k@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 10:47 AM

       
      I agree, I would never have an adjustment or locking screw bear against the side of a tapered gib.
       
      Another possibility is to drill the other side of the cross slide (or compound slide) and but a locking screw there. Be sure to put in a brass slug with a tapered inner end, similar to the ones that lock the compound from turning. The screw can have a socket head or T-handle or knurled head, whatever suits you.
       
      Just a thought.
       
      Anthony
      Berkeley, Calif.
      *****************************************************
      In a message dated Fri Jan 7, 2011 8:55 am (PST), responding to a query from Peter Wass,
      Jim B. writes:
      “The gibbs on the 10L do not have adjustment screws from the side.”

      Yes that was what I was afraid of.

      Some of the lather 9” and 10K’s are the same.

      I just looked at my 10L

      I would think that for a lock you might be able to add a dog-legged plate to the
      boss that holds the follower rest, using the follower rest screws to attaché it.

      This would have a thumb screw to bear against the cross slide.

    • Robert Hansberger
      Thnx Jim, I knew that, but felt  if I stated using heat, everybody and their brother would espouse the dangers of heating up precision machinery. Bob ...
      Message 2 of 13 , Jan 8, 2011
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        Thnx Jim,
        I knew that, but felt  if I stated using heat, everybody and their brother would espouse the dangers of heating up "precision" machinery.
        Bob

        --- On Sat, 1/8/11, jwh <jimwh@...> wrote:

        From: jwh <jimwh@...>
        Subject: Re: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop
        To: southbend10k@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 2:47 PM

         
        Bob
        don’t grind it off, just applying a little heat will break the bond
        Jim
         
        Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2011 3:46 PM
        Subject: Re: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop
         
         
        On my 12 x 36 cross slide I superglued an allen wrench in the center screw with the arm roughly horizontal toward the operator. On the finish cut I just turn it approx a quarter turn. When done just pull it back to first position. It has been working great for years. The thought came up what if I have to disassemble it. Worst case scenario, grind the wrench off and replace the screw. But that has not had to happen.
         
        Bob

        --- On Sat, 1/8/11, anthrhodes@... <anthrhodes@...> wrote:

        From: anthrhodes@... <anthrhodes@...>
        Subject: [southbend10k] Re: cross slide stop
        To: southbend10k@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 10:47 AM

         
        I agree, I would never have an adjustment or locking screw bear against the side of a tapered gib.
         
        Another possibility is to drill the other side of the cross slide (or compound slide) and but a locking screw there. Be sure to put in a brass slug with a tapered inner end, similar to the ones that lock the compound from turning. The screw can have a socket head or T-handle or knurled head, whatever suits you.
         
        Just a thought.
         
        Anthony
        Berkeley, Calif.
        *****************************************************
        In a message dated Fri Jan 7, 2011 8:55 am (PST), responding to a query from Peter Wass,
        Jim B. writes:
        “The gibbs on the 10L do not have adjustment screws from the side.”

        Yes that was what I was afraid of.

        Some of the lather 9” and 10K’s are the same.

        I just looked at my 10L

        I would think that for a lock you might be able to add a dog-legged plate to the
        boss that holds the follower rest, using the follower rest screws to attaché it.

        This would have a thumb screw to bear against the cross slide.


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