4718RE: [southbend10k] taper attachment [9 Attachments]
- May 4, 2014Instructions are very clear, even if fitting a taper attachment to a 9/10KThe last portion is not clear on how to pour babbittWhen I fitted my first taper attachment to my 10K rear drive, I had to fic the bed bracket. One corner was chipped away, and I had to re-machine the taper attachment that had got lot of wear. As a consequence, the taper attachment was by default out of alignment with the bed bracket, and the babbit had to be melted anyway because I had to silver solder a small piece of cast iron to the bracket.The cavity that will receive babbitt has to be clean.Very important: the shaft has to be smoked ideally with an acetylene torch in lack of oxygen. ( in my case I used a calcium carbide caving lamp, burning acetylene). More you smoke, more loose will be the fit between the babbit bearing and the shaft. In my case, I wanted the bearing to be loose enough so I can disconnect the bed bracket from the taper attachment when not in use. (I leave it loose at the right side of the bed)The putty they are talking about in the instructions can be replaced by smoked washers that fit the shaft and completely cover the extremities in order to seal the cavity. (the 2 washers will be used once the taper attachment is in use)You should warm up the bed bracket as well as the shaft so babbit does not solidify too fast . This will help to completely fill the cavity with babbit.Pouring the babbit is fairly straight forward. I melt babbit in a small tuna fish tin can on a small camping stove. (could be done with a propane torch as well)Wait for a few minutes. You will see the results are quite satisfying. If you are not satisfied by the result, start over again. (takes about 15 min)A taper attachment is something that can be used not only to cut tapers. A few weeks ago, I had to manufacture a batch of pipe organ stop knobs. The face of these knobs had a 2 1/4" radius to be cut.On my rotary table, I cut a 2 1/4" radius on a scrap piece of aluminium. I clamped this piece of aluminium on the taper attachment. I removed the sliding block from the taper attachment. Instead, I put a finger that would get in touch with my radius and clamped it on the cross slide, after the tool bit was set to the center of the piece to be machined. I clamped the bed bracket so the cuttting bit would be where I wanted to cut the radius. With cross feed screw and saddle handle I manually fed the tool bit to the piece of plastic.Result: I manufactured 30 knobs almost identical. To human eyes they are identical, we can measure slight differences in thickness. (3 or 4 thou)As a resumé, a taper attachment can be used as copying device as well. I might use a slightly different setup when I start machining my 100 miniature guns (if I don't go CNC for this....)Guy Cadrin
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