If the bearing is spinning in the end bell, you can find a decent motor
shop or machine shop and have them sleeve the housing. This amounts to
chucking up the end bell, boring it clean, pressing in a sleeve then
boring it concentric with the end bell. This is not an uncommon problem
in the motor industry. When reassembling, you will want to add shim
washers and possibly a bearing spring washer. The helical gear can put
a significant load, pushing and pulling the shaft. It needs to be
assembled such that it doesn't do that.
JB weld and other compounds WILL fail.
On 7/31/2013 9:15 AM, Sean K wrote:
> The previous photos I posted still apply, my rotor is still shifting
> more than 1/4 inch, I had the bearings replaced and the motor shop
> used some sort of retaining compound to try to keep the bearing from
> slipping out of the housing. I thought it had worked because I was
> able to drive it around in limp mode without an issue, but as soon as
> I got the car to drive normally and accelerated in the max power mode
> the rotor shifted again!
> I'm to the point where I'm tempted to try using something like jb weld
> or a brazing rod around the outside of the bearing, i think that the
> gap is too big for the loctite retaining compound that was previously
> recommended, I don't have any idea where to get a new bell housing for
> this motor, so it doesn't seem like I have much to lose by trying
> something a bit more permanent on this.
> So does anyone have any advice on how to fix this? Or even better does
> anyone have a working spare motor that they would be willing to sell?
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