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Re: 1997 Sloectria Force

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  • Sean K
    I think with your pack giving you that high of a voltage after drawing several AH that at the very least you d be getting the car to attempt to limp along. I
    Message 1 of 18 , Jul 30, 2013
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      I think with your pack giving you that high of a voltage after drawing several AH that at the very least you'd be getting the car to attempt to limp along.

      I would still recommend trying to hook up a laptop to the controller, that will help you get a picture of what the controller thinks is going on.

      Aside from that if you have a db9 breakout you can check the operation of the motor speed sensor with an O-Scope on the a+/-,b+/-, pin-out of that 9 pin connector is on the last page of the manual at http://www.kruspan.ch/assets/downloads/Manual_AMC_III_Kruspan_V072009.pdf

      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "rcreznyjr" <rcreznyjr@...> wrote:
      >
      > My saga continues. Went to work this morning and first thing I checked pack voltage. Was at 169.6 vdc. Turned on the A/C, headlights, rear defogger and radio. Heater element doesn't work. Still have to figure that out. Let it run for at least a half an hour. A/C works good. Pack voltage measured at the controller main power cables dropped to 160.4. Shut the system down. Pulled the two multi-wire connectors to the speed controller. Used the Stabilant 22 contact enhancer on the pin terminals and reconnected them. Reconnected the main power cable and then recharged the vehicle. The test this morning used 5.96ahr. Had to go to work on ICE vehicles and checked back at the charge status in 2 hours it was back to zero and going negative. Let it charge until noon. Disconnected charger and tried to operate vehicle. SSDD. Now what? Any help is always appreciated and I hope I'm learning....Rich
      >
      > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Steve Powers <stevepowers007@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Just because the pack reads 161.2V unloaded doesn't mean the pack is good.
      > > Turn on all accys and the heater heater full on and measure again. I bet
      > > is drops below the necessary voltage.
      > >
      > >
      > > On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 11:14 PM, rcreznyjr <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
      > >
      > > > **
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Today, after working at my second job I went to my main job where the
      > > > Force is parked. Checked the DC-DC output. Good there. Everything in the
      > > > 12vdc system operational. Checked pack voltage at the Anderson connector.
      > > > Measured 161.2vdc. Had to head home to do yard chores so I have to wait
      > > > until Monday to do any other diagnostics. Really appreciate the input and
      > > > advice. Rich
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      >
    • johnnydwa
      A couple of things to check...I was down a few months last year and got a lot of advice from Reed Bement. 1. Check each battery under load (high beams, heater
      Message 2 of 18 , Aug 7, 2013
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        A couple of things to check...I was down a few months last year and got a lot of advice from Reed Bement.

        1. Check each battery under load (high beams, heater - etc). You may see one that is reversing polarity. Many times everything looks fine without load and you'll find the culprit when under load. I normally go one by one write down the voltage without load and under load to compare.

        2. Check the main fuse of the controller. This requires pulling the cover of controller off (take lots of photos). If you have blown controller fuse you'll get your symptoms. I purchased a replacement online.

        3. While you have the controller apart. Connect and reconnect all of the connections between the boards. I also replaced the "foam pads" on the circuit boards that sit along the bottom rail of the controller.

        4. Replace the DB9 and DB25 connectors. I really fought doing this, but once I did it solved many issues. I bought some molded computer cables from Goodwill, cut off a 8 inch length and slowly soldered and shrink wrapped each connection. It is tedious and you have to be careful to keep everything in order (the Solectria cables are curled up ribbons, without any color coding). I replaced the two sets exposed cable heads since they get the most use.

        5. Search these posts - pretty much everything has happened before.

        Hope this helps.




        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "rcreznyjr" <rcreznyjr@...> wrote:
        >
        > My saga continues. Went to work this morning and first thing I checked pack voltage. Was at 169.6 vdc. Turned on the A/C, headlights, rear defogger and radio. Heater element doesn't work. Still have to figure that out. Let it run for at least a half an hour. A/C works good. Pack voltage measured at the controller main power cables dropped to 160.4. Shut the system down. Pulled the two multi-wire connectors to the speed controller. Used the Stabilant 22 contact enhancer on the pin terminals and reconnected them. Reconnected the main power cable and then recharged the vehicle. The test this morning used 5.96ahr. Had to go to work on ICE vehicles and checked back at the charge status in 2 hours it was back to zero and going negative. Let it charge until noon. Disconnected charger and tried to operate vehicle. SSDD. Now what? Any help is always appreciated and I hope I'm learning....Rich
        >
        > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Steve Powers <stevepowers007@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Just because the pack reads 161.2V unloaded doesn't mean the pack is good.
        > > Turn on all accys and the heater heater full on and measure again. I bet
        > > is drops below the necessary voltage.
        > >
        > >
        > > On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 11:14 PM, rcreznyjr <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
        > >
        > > > **
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Today, after working at my second job I went to my main job where the
        > > > Force is parked. Checked the DC-DC output. Good there. Everything in the
        > > > 12vdc system operational. Checked pack voltage at the Anderson connector.
        > > > Measured 161.2vdc. Had to head home to do yard chores so I have to wait
        > > > until Monday to do any other diagnostics. Really appreciate the input and
        > > > advice. Rich
        > > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >
      • geo_homsy2
        Hey Rich- my advice: Don t waste your time shooting in the dark (e.g. replacing the D-sub connectors or fussing around with the speed sensor) if you don t
        Message 3 of 18 , Aug 7, 2013
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          Hey Rich-

          my advice: Don't waste your time shooting in the dark (e.g. replacing the D-sub connectors or fussing around with the speed sensor) if you don't know they're the culprit. To put a twist on a Beastie-Boys song, "ch-ch-ch-checkulate, before ya speculate"...


          If your 12v is solid, IMO the next thing to check is the so-called "ignition" board. When you turn the ignition switch to "run", it should close a 12v relay contact on the ignition board, which in turn powers up the controller (by asserting a certain signal on the DB25 connector).

          The ignition board is housed in a small black plastic box behind the fascia under the steering column. NOT the plastic box with the 20 pin dual-row IDC connector; the plastic box with the rats-nest of wires with a whole sh*tload of different connectors on the ends.

          Some other kind soul has posted schematics of the ignition box in the "files" section here. Avail yourself of it :)

          Check that when you turn on the ignition, the relay inside that box clicks. If it doesn't, figure out why (the 12v wiring is implicated). If it DOES, then check if the main contactor inside the controller is engaging. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear a subtle clunk from inside the controller. I can't hear mine from the passenger compartment; in fact I've never heard it. So if you're checking this, use two people.

          If the controller contactor isn't engaging, then either (a) replace or recondition the DB25 connector, (b) check voltages at the DB25 connector using a breakout box, or (c) connect to the debug port on the controller. My preferences would be (b) or (c).

          There's an AC325 controller manual in the "files" section, that gives the pinout of the DB25 connector.

          Hope this helps!

          //Geo


          --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Sean K" <seankmc@...> wrote:
          >
          > I think with your pack giving you that high of a voltage after drawing several AH that at the very least you'd be getting the car to attempt to limp along.
          >
          > I would still recommend trying to hook up a laptop to the controller, that will help you get a picture of what the controller thinks is going on.
          >
          > Aside from that if you have a db9 breakout you can check the operation of the motor speed sensor with an O-Scope on the a+/-,b+/-, pin-out of that 9 pin connector is on the last page of the manual at http://www.kruspan.ch/assets/downloads/Manual_AMC_III_Kruspan_V072009.pdf
          >
          > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "rcreznyjr" <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
          > >
          > > My saga continues. Went to work this morning and first thing I checked pack voltage. Was at 169.6 vdc. Turned on the A/C, headlights, rear defogger and radio. Heater element doesn't work. Still have to figure that out. Let it run for at least a half an hour. A/C works good. Pack voltage measured at the controller main power cables dropped to 160.4. Shut the system down. Pulled the two multi-wire connectors to the speed controller. Used the Stabilant 22 contact enhancer on the pin terminals and reconnected them. Reconnected the main power cable and then recharged the vehicle. The test this morning used 5.96ahr. Had to go to work on ICE vehicles and checked back at the charge status in 2 hours it was back to zero and going negative. Let it charge until noon. Disconnected charger and tried to operate vehicle. SSDD. Now what? Any help is always appreciated and I hope I'm learning....Rich
          > >
          > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Steve Powers <stevepowers007@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Just because the pack reads 161.2V unloaded doesn't mean the pack is good.
          > > > Turn on all accys and the heater heater full on and measure again. I bet
          > > > is drops below the necessary voltage.
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 11:14 PM, rcreznyjr <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > > **
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Today, after working at my second job I went to my main job where the
          > > > > Force is parked. Checked the DC-DC output. Good there. Everything in the
          > > > > 12vdc system operational. Checked pack voltage at the Anderson connector.
          > > > > Measured 161.2vdc. Had to head home to do yard chores so I have to wait
          > > > > until Monday to do any other diagnostics. Really appreciate the input and
          > > > > advice. Rich
          > > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > >
          > >
          >
        • Sean K
          +1 to option C, if you are connected to the debug port you will pretty easily be able to easily tell if the motor speed sensor, power/range switch, potbox,
          Message 4 of 18 , Aug 9, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            +1 to option C, if you are connected to the debug port you will pretty easily be able to easily tell if the motor speed sensor, power/range switch, potbox, etc. are working.

            One bit of advice on that though, try coming up with an older laptop to connect with, win95 or xp, for some reason my windows 7 rig didn't want to work, but when I dusted off my old 486 with win95 it connected right up.

            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "geo_homsy2" <geo.homsy@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hey Rich-
            >
            > my advice: Don't waste your time shooting in the dark (e.g. replacing the D-sub connectors or fussing around with the speed sensor) if you don't know they're the culprit. To put a twist on a Beastie-Boys song, "ch-ch-ch-checkulate, before ya speculate"...
            >
            >
            > If your 12v is solid, IMO the next thing to check is the so-called "ignition" board. When you turn the ignition switch to "run", it should close a 12v relay contact on the ignition board, which in turn powers up the controller (by asserting a certain signal on the DB25 connector).
            >
            > The ignition board is housed in a small black plastic box behind the fascia under the steering column. NOT the plastic box with the 20 pin dual-row IDC connector; the plastic box with the rats-nest of wires with a whole sh*tload of different connectors on the ends.
            >
            > Some other kind soul has posted schematics of the ignition box in the "files" section here. Avail yourself of it :)
            >
            > Check that when you turn on the ignition, the relay inside that box clicks. If it doesn't, figure out why (the 12v wiring is implicated). If it DOES, then check if the main contactor inside the controller is engaging. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear a subtle clunk from inside the controller. I can't hear mine from the passenger compartment; in fact I've never heard it. So if you're checking this, use two people.
            >
            > If the controller contactor isn't engaging, then either (a) replace or recondition the DB25 connector, (b) check voltages at the DB25 connector using a breakout box, or (c) connect to the debug port on the controller. My preferences would be (b) or (c).
            >
            > There's an AC325 controller manual in the "files" section, that gives the pinout of the DB25 connector.
            >
            > Hope this helps!
            >
            > //Geo
            >
            >
            > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Sean K" <seankmc@> wrote:
            > >
            > > I think with your pack giving you that high of a voltage after drawing several AH that at the very least you'd be getting the car to attempt to limp along.
            > >
            > > I would still recommend trying to hook up a laptop to the controller, that will help you get a picture of what the controller thinks is going on.
            > >
            > > Aside from that if you have a db9 breakout you can check the operation of the motor speed sensor with an O-Scope on the a+/-,b+/-, pin-out of that 9 pin connector is on the last page of the manual at http://www.kruspan.ch/assets/downloads/Manual_AMC_III_Kruspan_V072009.pdf
            > >
            > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "rcreznyjr" <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > My saga continues. Went to work this morning and first thing I checked pack voltage. Was at 169.6 vdc. Turned on the A/C, headlights, rear defogger and radio. Heater element doesn't work. Still have to figure that out. Let it run for at least a half an hour. A/C works good. Pack voltage measured at the controller main power cables dropped to 160.4. Shut the system down. Pulled the two multi-wire connectors to the speed controller. Used the Stabilant 22 contact enhancer on the pin terminals and reconnected them. Reconnected the main power cable and then recharged the vehicle. The test this morning used 5.96ahr. Had to go to work on ICE vehicles and checked back at the charge status in 2 hours it was back to zero and going negative. Let it charge until noon. Disconnected charger and tried to operate vehicle. SSDD. Now what? Any help is always appreciated and I hope I'm learning....Rich
            > > >
            > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Steve Powers <stevepowers007@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > Just because the pack reads 161.2V unloaded doesn't mean the pack is good.
            > > > > Turn on all accys and the heater heater full on and measure again. I bet
            > > > > is drops below the necessary voltage.
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 11:14 PM, rcreznyjr <rcreznyjr@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > > **
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Today, after working at my second job I went to my main job where the
            > > > > > Force is parked. Checked the DC-DC output. Good there. Everything in the
            > > > > > 12vdc system operational. Checked pack voltage at the Anderson connector.
            > > > > > Measured 161.2vdc. Had to head home to do yard chores so I have to wait
            > > > > > until Monday to do any other diagnostics. Really appreciate the input and
            > > > > > advice. Rich
            > > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > >
            > > >
            > >
            >
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