Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

Expand Messages
  • Wade Perry
    Rex- I don t think the general consensus includes 60Ahr. Yet. I only know of two transplants that are less than 100 Ahr. (Bouty & me) Would like to be
    Message 1 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
    View Source
    • 0 Attachment
      Rex-
      I don't think the "general consensus" includes 60Ahr. Yet. I only know of
      two transplants that are less than 100 Ahr. (Bouty & me) Would like to be
      enlightened about any more out there...
      I see you running through the same thought process as I did. 40Ahr is
      definitely small. But you of all people should know, having driven
      electric for so long in the first place, and even tracked your Ahr usage.
      I didn't have that benefit, and I can tell you it wasn't wrong.
      The only thing I'd recommend is to consider putting in as high a voltage as
      you can. 56 cells is really fun- the "sport" version of the Solectria
      Force. Plus it results in greater range too- the higher voltage means the
      Ahr counter moves slower.
      Also the 60s are a different shape than the 40s. Taller and skinnier. I'm
      not sure what the height of the front box is, but with the smaller
      footprint you could definitely fit more of them in.
      If you do a "high-voltage" transplant using CA 40s, you'd have a very light
      and zippy car.

      Putting all the cells in the front is also a good idea, and I wish I had
      that too. When there's snow on the roads I really notice the lack of
      traction. I have a hard time getting going in front of my house. I have
      one gel cell in the front still just to give me some weight up there. I'm
      thinking that after a year of this, when I have the sense that the cells
      really are not going to drift and have some experience with it, I may move
      them up to the front where they're very difficult to actually measure (or
      as many as I can fit up there).

      I remember reading Bouty's email with disbelief that he hadn't even checked
      the voltage on the cells for 18 months! How irresponsible! Is he trying
      to wreck his batteries?
      Now I'm quite a ways down that road myself.

      Wade



      On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 9:33 AM, Rex Allison <ev64bug@...> wrote:

      > **
      >
      >
      > I have one question for Bouty:
      > How many miles do you have on your pack?
      >
      > One question for the group:
      > Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?
      >
      > I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000
      > miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to
      > 24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very
      > short side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per
      > mile. I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when
      > the weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out.
      > I'm interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple
      > of reasons:
      >
      > 1. If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the
      > front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the
      > 156V wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack
      > and the controller.
      >
      > 2. The pack cost
      > is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are
      > around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping. 13 Deka
      > batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207
      > approx.)
      >
      > 3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161
      > lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to
      > have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel
      > like it is permanently going down a hill.
      >
      > 4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the
      > "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the
      > force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they
      > should be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the
      > cells: http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/
      >
      > I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but
      > I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use
      > between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to
      > 35Ahrs.
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: d. Bouton Baldridge <cfrkeepr@...>
      > To: "solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
      >
      > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System
      >
      >
      >
      > Hi Wade,
      > In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your
      > readings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity
      > having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is
      > avoiding going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just
      > fine doing that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that
      > voltage is not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have
      > found the reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up;
      > for me it was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the
      > winter season my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on
      > the plus side by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80
      > degrees. My guess for you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack
      > temp increases higher than when you were driving and the voltage is
      > slightly higher as a result this stops the charger earlier than
      > the previous Ahour
      > reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in
      > or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged
      > routinely and had the automatic reset. I am a few months shy of 4 years
      > and this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact
      > the utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just
      > occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember
      > every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would
      > last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I
      > might find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on
      > your project FWIW,
      > Bouty
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>
      > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
      > Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System
      >
      >
      > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
      >
      > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
      > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
      > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
      > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
      > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
      > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
      > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
      > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
      > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
      > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
      > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
      >
      > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
      >
      > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
      > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
      > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
      > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
      > they're reasonably well balanced.
      >
      > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
      > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
      > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
      > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
      > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
      > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
      >
      > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
      > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
      > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
      > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
      > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
      > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
      > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
      >
      > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
      > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
      > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
      > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
      > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
      > cells.
      >
      > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
      > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
      > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
      > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
      > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
      > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
      > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
      > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
      >
      > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
      > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
      > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
      > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
      > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
      > me to a resource about this?
      >
      > Thanks for the help!
      >
      > Wade Perry
      > 1998 Force
      > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Rex Allison
      Wade, I think the issue of cell balancing, monitoring, or driving blind so to speak is still forming as users gain more experience. I m not as daring as Bouty,
      Message 2 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
      View Source
      • 0 Attachment
        Wade,

        I think the issue of cell balancing, monitoring, or driving blind so to speak is still forming as users gain more experience. I'm not as daring as Bouty, so I'm still in favor of monitoring, but I read somewhere (this is not my original idea) that monitoring in groups of 4 is another way to simplify your setup, especially if you are not pushing your pack to it's limit. The advantage of groups of 4 cells, basically battery monitoring vs cell monitoring, is that a weak cell will still show up and you can use one of the existing Pb monitoring systems such as the Paktrakr. This is just another system tradeoff with pros and cons.

        As far as accessing the front battery box. I gave up my AC unit years ago to a fellow Force owner (60lb less to lug around), so I just have the controller in the way. Another item on my todo list is to come up with a hinged mount for the controller so that the battery box can be easily accessed. I haven't come up with any solid solution yet...

        Rex




        ________________________________
        From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>
        To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 3:38 PM
        Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

        Rex-
        I don't think the "general consensus" includes 60Ahr.  Yet.  I only know of
        two transplants that are less than 100 Ahr.  (Bouty & me)  Would like to be
        enlightened about any more out there...
        I see you running through the same thought process as I did.  40Ahr is
        definitely small.  But you of all people should know, having driven
        electric for so long in the first place, and even tracked your Ahr usage.
        I didn't have that benefit, and I can tell you it wasn't wrong.
        The only thing I'd recommend is to consider putting in as high a voltage as
        you can.  56 cells is really fun- the "sport" version of the Solectria
        Force.  Plus it results in greater range too- the higher voltage means the
        Ahr counter moves slower.
        Also the 60s are a different shape than the 40s.  Taller and skinnier.  I'm
        not sure what the height of the front box is, but with the smaller
        footprint you could definitely fit more of them in.
        If you do a "high-voltage" transplant using CA 40s, you'd have a very light
        and zippy car.

        Putting all the cells in the front is also a good idea, and I wish I had
        that too.  When there's snow on the roads I really notice the lack of
        traction.  I have a hard time getting going in front of my house.  I have
        one gel cell in the front still just to give me some weight up there.  I'm
        thinking that after a year of this, when I have the sense that the cells
        really are not going to drift and have some experience with it, I may move
        them up to the front where they're very difficult to actually measure (or
        as many as I can fit up there).

        I remember reading Bouty's email with disbelief that he hadn't even checked
        the voltage on the cells for 18 months!  How irresponsible!  Is he trying
        to wreck his batteries?
        Now I'm quite a ways down that road myself.

        Wade



        On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 9:33 AM, Rex Allison <ev64bug@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > I have one question for Bouty:
        > How many miles do you have on your pack?
        >
        > One question for the group:
        > Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?
        >
        > I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000
        > miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to
        > 24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very
        > short side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per
        > mile.  I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when
        > the weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out.
        > I'm interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple
        > of reasons:
        >
        > 1.  If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the
        > front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the
        > 156V wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack
        > and the controller.
        >
        > 2. The pack cost
        > is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are
        > around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping.  13 Deka
        > batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207
        > approx.)
        >
        > 3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161
        > lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to
        > have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel
        > like it is permanently going down a hill.
        >
        > 4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the
        > "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the
        > force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they
        > should be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the
        > cells: http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/
        >
        > I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but
        > I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use
        > between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to
        > 35Ahrs.
        >
        > ________________________________
        > From: d. Bouton Baldridge <cfrkeepr@...>
        > To: "solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
        > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
        >
        > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System
        >
        >
        >
        > Hi Wade,
        >  In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your
        > readings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity
        > having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is
        > avoiding going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just
        > fine doing that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that
        > voltage is not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have
        > found the reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up;
        > for me it was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the
        > winter season my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on
        > the plus side by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80
        > degrees. My guess for you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack
        > temp increases higher than when you were driving and the voltage is
        > slightly higher as a result this stops the charger earlier than
        > the previous Ahour
        > reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in
        > or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged
        > routinely and had the automatic reset.  I am a few months shy of 4 years
        > and this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact
        > the utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just
        > occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember
        > every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would
        > last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I
        > might find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on
        > your project FWIW,
        > Bouty
        >
        > ________________________________
        > From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>
        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
        > Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System
        >
        >
        > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
        >
        > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
        > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
        > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
        > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
        > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
        > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
        > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
        > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
        > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
        > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
        > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
        >
        > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
        >
        > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
        > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
        > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
        > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
        > they're reasonably well balanced.
        >
        > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
        > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
        > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
        > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
        > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
        > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
        >
        > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
        > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
        > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
        > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
        > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
        > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
        > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
        >
        > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
        > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
        > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
        > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
        > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
        > cells.
        >
        > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
        > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
        > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
        > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
        > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
        > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
        > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
        > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
        >
        > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
        > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
        > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
        > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
        > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
        > me to a resource about this?
        >
        > Thanks for the help!
        >
        > Wade Perry
        > 1998 Force
        > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >

        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



        ------------------------------------

        Yahoo! Groups Links



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Gerry Gaydos
        Hey, you don t need to monitor all the modules in your EVs battery pack,... only the ones you want to keep.There has yet to be made a battery of any type that
        Message 3 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
        View Source
        • 0 Attachment
          Hey, you don't need to monitor all the modules in your EVs battery pack,... only the ones you want to keep.There has yet to be made a battery of any type that has any loyalty to it's owner, just because he/she spent some hard earned money. They will tend to do what ever the hell they want, unless you keep an eye on the little buggers and help them play well with others.

          Gerry
          "Internal combustion is so last century"... Funkymoto�, Electrifying Cars! 250 598 3100

          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          From: ev64bug@...
          Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2012 16:04:18 -0800
          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System


























          Wade,



          I think the issue of cell balancing, monitoring, or driving blind so to speak is still forming as users gain more experience. I'm not as daring as Bouty, so I'm still in favor of monitoring, but I read somewhere (this is not my original idea) that monitoring in groups of 4 is another way to simplify your setup, especially if you are not pushing your pack to it's limit. The advantage of groups of 4 cells, basically battery monitoring vs cell monitoring, is that a weak cell will still show up and you can use one of the existing Pb monitoring systems such as the Paktrakr. This is just another system tradeoff with pros and cons.



          As far as accessing the front battery box. I gave up my AC unit years ago to a fellow Force owner (60lb less to lug around), so I just have the controller in the way. Another item on my todo list is to come up with a hinged mount for the controller so that the battery box can be easily accessed. I haven't come up with any solid solution yet...



          Rex



          ________________________________

          From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>

          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com

          Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 3:38 PM

          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System



          Rex-

          I don't think the "general consensus" includes 60Ahr. Yet. I only know of

          two transplants that are less than 100 Ahr. (Bouty & me) Would like to be

          enlightened about any more out there...

          I see you running through the same thought process as I did. 40Ahr is

          definitely small. But you of all people should know, having driven

          electric for so long in the first place, and even tracked your Ahr usage.

          I didn't have that benefit, and I can tell you it wasn't wrong.

          The only thing I'd recommend is to consider putting in as high a voltage as

          you can. 56 cells is really fun- the "sport" version of the Solectria

          Force. Plus it results in greater range too- the higher voltage means the

          Ahr counter moves slower.

          Also the 60s are a different shape than the 40s. Taller and skinnier. I'm

          not sure what the height of the front box is, but with the smaller

          footprint you could definitely fit more of them in.

          If you do a "high-voltage" transplant using CA 40s, you'd have a very light

          and zippy car.



          Putting all the cells in the front is also a good idea, and I wish I had

          that too. When there's snow on the roads I really notice the lack of

          traction. I have a hard time getting going in front of my house. I have

          one gel cell in the front still just to give me some weight up there. I'm

          thinking that after a year of this, when I have the sense that the cells

          really are not going to drift and have some experience with it, I may move

          them up to the front where they're very difficult to actually measure (or

          as many as I can fit up there).



          I remember reading Bouty's email with disbelief that he hadn't even checked

          the voltage on the cells for 18 months! How irresponsible! Is he trying

          to wreck his batteries?

          Now I'm quite a ways down that road myself.



          Wade



          On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 9:33 AM, Rex Allison <ev64bug@...> wrote:



          > **

          >

          >

          > I have one question for Bouty:

          > How many miles do you have on your pack?

          >

          > One question for the group:

          > Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?

          >

          > I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000

          > miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to

          > 24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very

          > short side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per

          > mile. I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when

          > the weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out.

          > I'm interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple

          > of reasons:

          >

          > 1. If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the

          > front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the

          > 156V wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack

          > and the controller.

          >

          > 2. The pack cost

          > is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are

          > around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping. 13 Deka

          > batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207

          > approx.)

          >

          > 3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161

          > lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to

          > have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel

          > like it is permanently going down a hill.

          >

          > 4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the

          > "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the

          > force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they

          > should be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the

          > cells: http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/

          >

          > I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but

          > I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use

          > between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to

          > 35Ahrs.

          >

          > ________________________________

          > From: d. Bouton Baldridge <cfrkeepr@...>

          > To: "solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>

          > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM

          >

          > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

          >

          >

          >

          > Hi Wade,

          > In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your

          > readings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity

          > having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is

          > avoiding going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just

          > fine doing that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that

          > voltage is not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have

          > found the reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up;

          > for me it was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the

          > winter season my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on

          > the plus side by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80

          > degrees. My guess for you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack

          > temp increases higher than when you were driving and the voltage is

          > slightly higher as a result this stops the charger earlier than

          > the previous Ahour

          > reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in

          > or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged

          > routinely and had the automatic reset. I am a few months shy of 4 years

          > and this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact

          > the utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just

          > occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember

          > every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would

          > last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I

          > might find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on

          > your project FWIW,

          > Bouty

          >

          > ________________________________

          > From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>

          > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com

          > Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM

          > Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

          >

          >

          > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.

          >

          > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home

          > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge

          > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is

          > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.

          > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went

          > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I

          > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.

          > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was

          > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to

          > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.

          > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-

          >

          > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html

          >

          > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I

          > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was

          > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was

          > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So

          > they're reasonably well balanced.

          >

          > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were

          > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.

          > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the

          > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood

          > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.

          > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.

          >

          > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It

          > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they

          > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped

          > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my

          > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was

          > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged

          > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)

          >

          > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by

          > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned

          > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on

          > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or

          > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the

          > cells.

          >

          > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is

          > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are

          > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put

          > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right

          > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all

          > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb

          > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery

          > box, whenever the car's plugged in.

          >

          > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC

          > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in

          > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've

          > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about

          > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point

          > me to a resource about this?

          >

          > Thanks for the help!

          >

          > Wade Perry

          > 1998 Force

          > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr

          >

          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          >

          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          >

          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          >

          >

          >



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



          ------------------------------------



          Yahoo! Groups Links



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • geo_homsy2
          Chip- are you confusing the charger s thermal monitoring system with the thermal management system? In my 1999 force, the factory stock condition was: * two
          Message 4 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
          View Source
          • 0 Attachment
            Chip-

            are you confusing the charger's thermal monitoring system with the thermal management system?

            In my 1999 force, the factory stock condition was:

            * two NTC thermistors mounted inside ring lugs, one screwed onto a battery post in each box, plugged into the charger interface box you describe.

            * two thermal management boxes, small black plastic, 1x2x4", velcro'd to the top of the batteries, again one in front, one in the rear. These boxes each have a bi-metallic type thermal snap-switch, to turn on the heating pads. They are powered from the AC junction box on the rear-left fender well.

            It is the latter system I believe Wade is referring to. It is completely independent of the charger.

            //Geo

            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Chandler Chip <cchandler66@...> wrote:
            >
            > Wade:
            > The junction box on my 1997 Force leads out of the BC3300 charger and I'll assume it was originally similar for your 1998. Inside this box is a complex circuit board with some of the leads going out to the thermal management system. Matching that circuitry with your Zivan charger might be difficult, but you might go a simpler route as Solectria did in the 1996 Force, just fused leads off the power input before the power leads go to the charger. My 1996 has dual BC1000 chargers, taking only 110 volts, and in the junction box two 12amp 250 volt fuses on the two leads to the temp sensor boxes. Your Zivan and heater pads probably take 240 volts.
            >
            > My temp readings are showing quite a difference, as it gets colder here, between the center of the pack and outside edge, both after running and charging. I don't know what long term effects this might have on cell conditions and longevity, that is, having the center cells working at a higher temperature than the cells at the edges (also this would make a complex scenario for precession). I have no insulation (and no room for it), but would recommend as much insulation as you can install, under and around. I found when I tried originally heating lead acid, the electric bill was significant even with insulation. I believe the temp sensors are set for 70F degrees, and it would be wonderful if they could be adjusted to say 40F or replaced for 40F. I am still getting reasonable performance with the center pack starting temp at 25F with 1.5Ah/mile (TS 160Ah cells).
            >
            > Chip Chandler
            > cchandler66@...
            >
            > On Dec 3, 2012, at 3:34 PM, Wade Perry <perrypeas@...> wrote:
            >
            > > Thanks for the help Chip.
            > > I see those two pages, that's helpful.
            > > I kept the heating pads (with the hard plastic over top).
            > > I still have the temp sensor boxes, I haven't changed any of that (I did
            > > unplug and remove the ones in the front box).
            > > The temp sensor box in the rear battery box was indeed on top of the gel
            > > cels when I started. It's still plugged in, I just left it off to the side
            > > when I took the gels out.
            > > However I don't think I have the actual AC junction box anymore. Someone
            > > had changed the charger to a Zivan NG5 before I bought the car, maybe the
            > > junction box was lost then. I do know the AC power came straight into the
            > > NG5.
            > > Insulation I hadn't thought about too much- the gels came with a bunch of
            > > pink- type insulation material which I used around the lithiums too. I was
            > > just going to close up the box and see how well it did.
            > > Wade Perry
            > >
            > > On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 6:59 AM, Chandler Chip <cchandler66@...>wrote:
            > >
            > > > On the file listing for this website, check out the 1998 Force Service
            > > > manual (Silverman), pages 49 and 53 in the appendix. They show the wiring
            > > > for the Thermal Management System starting from the AC junction box near
            > > > the charger and leading to the temp sensor boxes, one in each battery box,
            > > > if you still have the components for them. Those sensor boxes should be
            > > > installed on top of the batteries. Are your heating mats still in the
            > > > battery boxes under your new batteries? What insulation do you plan on
            > > > installing under and around your cells?
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Chip Chandler
            > > > cchandler66@...
            > > >
            > > > On Dec 2, 2012, at 1:47 AM, Wade Perry <perrypeas@...> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
            > > > >
            > > > > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
            > > > > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and
            > > > discharge
            > > > > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
            > > > > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
            > > > > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on.
            > > > Went
            > > > > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
            > > > > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
            > > > > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
            > > > > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
            > > > > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
            > > > > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
            > > > >
            > > > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
            > > > >
            > > > > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
            > > > > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
            > > > > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
            > > > > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
            > > > > they're reasonably well balanced.
            > > > >
            > > > > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
            > > > > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
            > > > > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
            > > > > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
            > > > > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
            > > > > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
            > > > >
            > > > > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
            > > > > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
            > > > > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
            > > > > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
            > > > > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
            > > > > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
            > > > > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
            > > > >
            > > > > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
            > > > > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was
            > > > concerned
            > > > > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left
            > > > on
            > > > > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14
            > > > or
            > > > > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
            > > > > cells.
            > > > >
            > > > > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
            > > > > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
            > > > > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
            > > > > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box.
            > > > Right
            > > > > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
            > > > > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light
            > > > bulb
            > > > > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
            > > > > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
            > > > >
            > > > > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to
            > > > AC
            > > > > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
            > > > > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
            > > > > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
            > > > > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
            > > > > me to a resource about this?
            > > > >
            > > > > Thanks for the help!
            > > > >
            > > > > Wade Perry
            > > > > 1998 Force
            > > > > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
            > > > >
            > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > ------------------------------------
            > > >
            > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • Wolf
            The internals, (caps, MOSFETs) are rated at 250 Volts, but I would not recommend running that close to the limit... I don t have a working AMC325 at the
            Message 5 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
            View Source
            • 0 Attachment
              The internals, (caps, MOSFETs) are rated at 250 Volts, but I would not
              recommend running that close to the limit...

              I don't have a working AMC325 at the moment, but of you connect to one with
              the AMC program, and then download the config file.

              Change the high voltage limit to 999 and then the program will change it to
              the max allowed voltage.

              On the AMC320 it is 180 volts.

              Using the ratio 180V/12 = 15V
              Then the AMC325 should be 15*15 = 225 Volts max.

              Due so at your own risk. ;)
              On Dec 3, 2012 3:30 PM, "Wade Perry" <perrypeas@...> wrote:

              > **
              >
              >
              > Hi Wolf.
              > Yes that was my understanding.
              > It's been below freezing recently, sometimes a fair bit below freezing,
              > like -15C. My kids are enjoying our backyard skating rink.
              > But I knew the cells wouldn't be as cold as the outside air because I've
              > been driving them, and recharging, both of which should generate some heat
              > within the cell itself. However they don't generate all that much heat
              > really even when you're pushing them, which a Force isn't really capable of
              > doing anyway, so I was nervous. The phenomenon that Bouty and Tom are
              > calling "precession" was getting me concerned. Especially because it
              > happened when it was COLDER. That's why I was so happy to get the full
              > 60Ahr out... But the full capacity might be partly because I'm breaking
              > the cells in too.
              >
              > Wolf a question for you- What do you think is the maximum voltage the
              > AC325 controller can handle? I have 56 cells in the car now, could I add
              > any more??? :)
              >
              > Bouty- I don't understand why you should see a higher incidence of
              > precession when it's warmer, while I see a higher incidence when it's
              > colder.
              >
              > Wade
              >
              > On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Wolf <wolf@...> wrote:
              >
              > > I would not charge lithium ion batteries that are below freezing, you
              > will
              > > electroplate metallic lithium and ruin the battery.
              > >
              > > Do a quick Google search on electroplating lithium when charging below
              > > freezing.
              > > On Dec 2, 2012 12:47 AM, "Wade Perry" <perrypeas@...> wrote:
              > >
              > > > **
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
              > > >
              > > > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back
              > home
              > > > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and
              > > discharge
              > > > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
              > > > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
              > > > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on.
              > > Went
              > > > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
              > > > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
              > > > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
              > > > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it
              > to
              > > > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
              > > > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
              > > >
              > > > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done
              > I
              > > > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
              > > > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I
              > was
              > > > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05.
              > So
              > > > they're reasonably well balanced.
              > > >
              > > > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
              > > > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
              > > > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
              > > > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
              > > > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
              > > > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
              > > >
              > > > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
              > > > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
              > > > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA
              > dipped
              > > > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on
              > my
              > > > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
              > > > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but
              > plugged
              > > > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
              > > >
              > > > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently
              > by
              > > > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was
              > > concerned
              > > > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still
              > left
              > > on
              > > > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14
              > > or
              > > > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
              > > > cells.
              > > >
              > > > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
              > > > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells
              > are
              > > > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
              > > > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box.
              > > Right
              > > > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
              > > > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light
              > > bulb
              > > > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
              > > > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
              > > >
              > > > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to
              > > AC
              > > > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back
              > in
              > > > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing.
              > I've
              > > > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
              > > > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone
              > point
              > > > me to a resource about this?
              > > >
              > > > Thanks for the help!
              > > >
              > > > Wade Perry
              > > > 1998 Force
              > > > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
              > > >
              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > ------------------------------------
              > >
              > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • d. Bouton Baldridge
              Hi Rex, you have done well getting 7 years and 22,000 miles. I have not been so fortunate with Pb. Ok not too sure of the miles maybe 3000. Since the main
              Message 6 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
              View Source
              • 0 Attachment
                Hi Rex, you have done well getting 7 years and 22,000 miles. I have not been so fortunate with Pb.
                Ok not too sure of the miles maybe 3000. Since the main reason for a small pack was cost I also adopted a different attitude for the car. Being an early model the 30 -40 mile range on 90 ah  l/a is still pretty much possible with the 40 Ah lithium. Not needing to drive that much every a day any longer (retired) I wanted to find a solution to the problem of replacing packs every 18 months or 2 years. My goal was to get the overall cost of driving electric down, and replacing packs so frequently was the number one culprit. Since my lithium pack cost just a bit more than the Pb four years ago, I feel that my goal is proving to be successful. I have added the solar feature to not only reduce the cost more, but I wanted to prove to myself that it could be done without using supplemental power which now influences my driving as well. I will have driven 2.5 years without even plugging in. I drive only the distance that will allow me to recharge from the sun
                the next day, which is qute a challenge during the winter. So distance driving is for somebody else. Range anxiety is an issue all of us EVers  have to deal with in our public image. If you want to go long distances in an EV it can be done but at a steep price for a large pack, but how much do you really need? Those 3000 miles were hundreds of short trips like the average driver does every day; if an ICE were used they would be the least efficient and most polluting miles, not so with an EV. Hope this helps.
                Bouty



                ________________________________
                From: Rex Allison <ev64bug@...>
                To: "solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 11:33 AM
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                 
                I have one question for Bouty:
                How many miles do you have on your pack?

                One question for the group:
                Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?

                I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000 miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to 24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very short side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per mile.  I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when the weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out. I'm interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple of reasons:

                1.  If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the 156V wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack and the controller.

                2. The pack cost
                is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping.  13 Deka batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207 approx.)

                3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161 lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel like it is permanently going down a hill.

                4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they should be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the cells: http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/

                I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to 35Ahrs.

                ________________________________
                From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com>
                To: "mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System


                 
                Hi Wade,
                 In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your readings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is avoiding going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just fine doing that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that voltage is not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have found the reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up; for me it was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the winter season my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on the plus side by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80 degrees. My guess for you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack temp increases higher than when you were driving and the voltage is slightly higher as a result this stops the charger earlier than
                the previous Ahour
                reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged routinely and had the automatic reset.  I am a few months shy of 4 years and this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact the utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I might find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on your project FWIW,
                Bouty

                ________________________________
                From: Wade Perry <mailto:perrypeas%40gmail.com>
                To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
                Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                 
                Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.

                I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
                a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
                well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html

                The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                they're reasonably well balanced.

                One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.

                Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)

                This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
                because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
                the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
                something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                cells.

                Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
                now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
                back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                box, whenever the car's plugged in.

                So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
                power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                me to a resource about this?

                Thanks for the help!

                Wade Perry
                1998 Force
                56 CALB CA 60 Ahr

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • d. Bouton Baldridge
                Hi Wade,  It is only a theory but I think that while you are charging at the higher rate steady state it tends to heat the cell electrolite higher than when
                Message 7 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
                View Source
                • 0 Attachment
                  Hi Wade,
                   It is only a theory but I think that while you are charging at the higher rate steady state it tends to heat the cell electrolite higher than when you were driving; in my case the cells are heated by the high outside temps and cabin. A warmer cell increases the voltage and thus the charger reaches voltage limit before the entire Ah capacity is reached just slightly less. I have withnesses my cell arround 90 degrees F and the car acts like it is in power mode good acceleration and the converse is true when they are below 50 F, so I know that these cells behave this way. So your cells are colder before charging, I think.
                  Bouty 


                  ________________________________
                  From: Wade Perry <perrypeas@...>
                  To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 4:30 PM
                  Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                   
                  Hi Wolf.
                  Yes that was my understanding.
                  It's been below freezing recently, sometimes a fair bit below freezing,
                  like -15C. My kids are enjoying our backyard skating rink.
                  But I knew the cells wouldn't be as cold as the outside air because I've
                  been driving them, and recharging, both of which should generate some heat
                  within the cell itself. However they don't generate all that much heat
                  really even when you're pushing them, which a Force isn't really capable of
                  doing anyway, so I was nervous. The phenomenon that Bouty and Tom are
                  calling "precession" was getting me concerned. Especially because it
                  happened when it was COLDER. That's why I was so happy to get the full
                  60Ahr out... But the full capacity might be partly because I'm breaking
                  the cells in too.

                  Wolf a question for you- What do you think is the maximum voltage the
                  AC325 controller can handle? I have 56 cells in the car now, could I add
                  any more??? :)

                  Bouty- I don't understand why you should see a higher incidence of
                  precession when it's warmer, while I see a higher incidence when it's
                  colder.

                  Wade

                  On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Wolf <mailto:wolf%40wolftronix.com> wrote:

                  > I would not charge lithium ion batteries that are below freezing, you will
                  > electroplate metallic lithium and ruin the battery.
                  >
                  > Do a quick Google search on electroplating lithium when charging below
                  > freezing.
                  > On Dec 2, 2012 12:47 AM, "Wade Perry" <mailto:perrypeas%40gmail.com> wrote:
                  >
                  > > **
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
                  > >
                  > > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                  > > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and
                  > discharge
                  > > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                  > > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                  > > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on.
                  > Went
                  > > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                  > > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                  > > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                  > > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                  > > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                  > > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                  > >
                  > >
                  > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
                  > >
                  > > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                  > > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                  > > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                  > > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                  > > they're reasonably well balanced.
                  > >
                  > > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                  > > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                  > > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                  > > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                  > > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                  > > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
                  > >
                  > > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                  > > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                  > > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                  > > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                  > > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                  > > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                  > > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
                  > >
                  > > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                  > > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was
                  > concerned
                  > > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left
                  > on
                  > > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14
                  > or
                  > > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                  > > cells.
                  > >
                  > > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                  > > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                  > > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                  > > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box.
                  > Right
                  > > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                  > > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light
                  > bulb
                  > > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                  > > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
                  > >
                  > > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to
                  > AC
                  > > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                  > > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                  > > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                  > > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                  > > me to a resource about this?
                  > >
                  > > Thanks for the help!
                  > >
                  > > Wade Perry
                  > > 1998 Force
                  > > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
                  > >
                  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ------------------------------------
                  >
                  > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • theoldcars@aol.com
                  Just a word of warning The CALB cells are not rated as many sellers on the Internet are showing 3C and 4C on their web sites. The SE series was rated by CALB
                  Message 8 of 29 , Dec 3, 2012
                  View Source
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Just a word of warning

                    The CALB cells are not rated as many sellers on the Internet are showing 3C
                    and 4C on their web sites. The SE series was rated by CALB at 1C and many
                    have put them under loads of 3C or 4C. There is no data that I am aware of
                    that shows cycle life under these higher C rates but it will be less.

                    The new CA series which are also called the gray cells are rated at 2C by
                    CALB.

                    If your going to put a higher C rate on a CALB cell I would recommend it be
                    the CA series.

                    CALB for the most part has stopped selling the SE series except for a few
                    sizes. The demand for the SE series has almost totally gone away with the
                    release of the CA series.

                    Jack from EVTV gives out some off some really off the wall advise and
                    information. While some of what he does is good he also chimes in with baseless
                    comments or beliefs that have no merit.

                    On the 40Ah cells your going to see far more voltage sag under load. Cycle
                    life would be less but as you point out its going to be a savings
                    regardless over lead. I would highly recommend the CA 60Ah cells. The 60Ah cells
                    hold their voltage very well. I know of one person who parallel two 40Ah of
                    SE40 and their voltage sags more then a pack of 60Ah CA cells in series.

                    Don Blazer


                    In a message dated 12/3/2012 8:34:09 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
                    ev64bug@... writes:




                    I have one question for Bouty:
                    How many miles do you have on your pack?

                    One question for the group:
                    Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?

                    I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000
                    miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to
                    24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very short
                    side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per mile.
                    I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when the
                    weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out. I'm
                    interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple of
                    reasons:

                    1. If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the
                    front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the 156V
                    wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack and
                    the controller.

                    2. The pack cost
                    is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are
                    around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping. 13 Deka
                    batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207 approx.)

                    3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161
                    lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to
                    have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel
                    like it is permanently going down a hill.

                    4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the
                    "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the
                    force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they should
                    be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the cells:
                    _http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/_
                    (http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/)

                    I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but
                    I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use
                    between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to 35Ahrs.

                    ________________________________
                    From: d. Bouton Baldridge <_cfrkeepr@..._
                    (mailto:cfrkeepr@...) >
                    To: "_solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com) "
                    <_solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com) >
                    Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
                    Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System



                    Hi Wade,
                    In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your re
                    adings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity
                    having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is avoiding
                    going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just fine doing
                    that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that voltage is
                    not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have found the
                    reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up; for me it
                    was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the winter season
                    my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on the plus side
                    by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80 degrees. My guess for
                    you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack temp increases higher
                    than when you were driving and the voltage is slightly higher as a result
                    this stops the charger earlier than
                    the previous Ahour
                    reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in
                    or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged
                    routinely and had the automatic reset. I am a few months shy of 4 years and
                    this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact the
                    utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just
                    occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember
                    every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would
                    last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I might
                    find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on your
                    project FWIW,
                    Bouty

                    ________________________________
                    From: Wade Perry <_perrypeas@..._ (mailto:perrypeas@...) >
                    To: _solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com)
                    Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
                    Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System


                    Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.

                    I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                    from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
                    a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                    probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                    So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
                    well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                    did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                    Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                    around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                    59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                    Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                    _https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQk
                    FlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html_
                    (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html)

                    The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                    went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                    .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                    finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                    they're reasonably well balanced.

                    One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                    measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                    Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                    factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                    out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                    This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.

                    Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                    would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                    were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                    all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                    counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                    undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                    in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)

                    This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                    charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
                    because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
                    the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
                    something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                    cells.

                    Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                    with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                    taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                    together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
                    now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                    around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
                    back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                    box, whenever the car's plugged in.

                    So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
                    power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                    August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                    searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                    where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                    me to a resource about this?

                    Thanks for the help!

                    Wade Perry
                    1998 Force
                    56 CALB CA 60 Ahr

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Chandler Chip
                    Geo: Ooops! My brain cramp. Thanks for the correction. Chip Chandler cchandler66@roadrunner.com ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    Message 9 of 29 , Dec 4, 2012
                    View Source
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Geo: Ooops! My brain cramp. Thanks for the correction.

                      Chip Chandler
                      cchandler66@...

                      On Dec 3, 2012, at 7:25 PM, geo_homsy2 <geo.homsy@...> wrote:

                      > Chip-
                      >
                      > are you confusing the charger's thermal monitoring system with the thermal management system?
                      >
                      > In my 1999 force, the factory stock condition was:
                      >
                      > * two NTC thermistors mounted inside ring lugs, one screwed onto a battery post in each box, plugged into the charger interface box you describe.
                      >
                      > * two thermal management boxes, small black plastic, 1x2x4", velcro'd to the top of the batteries, again one in front, one in the rear. These boxes each have a bi-metallic type thermal snap-switch, to turn on the heating pads. They are powered from the AC junction box on the rear-left fender well.
                      >
                      > It is the latter system I believe Wade is referring to. It is completely independent of the charger.
                      >
                      > //Geo
                      >
                      > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Chandler Chip <cchandler66@...> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Wade:
                      > > The junction box on my 1997 Force leads out of the BC3300 charger and I'll assume it was originally similar for your 1998. Inside this box is a complex circuit board with some of the leads going out to the thermal management system. Matching that circuitry with your Zivan charger might be difficult, but you might go a simpler route as Solectria did in the 1996 Force, just fused leads off the power input before the power leads go to the charger. My 1996 has dual BC1000 chargers, taking only 110 volts, and in the junction box two 12amp 250 volt fuses on the two leads to the temp sensor boxes. Your Zivan and heater pads probably take 240 volts.
                      > >
                      > > My temp readings are showing quite a difference, as it gets colder here, between the center of the pack and outside edge, both after running and charging. I don't know what long term effects this might have on cell conditions and longevity, that is, having the center cells working at a higher temperature than the cells at the edges (also this would make a complex scenario for precession). I have no insulation (and no room for it), but would recommend as much insulation as you can install, under and around. I found when I tried originally heating lead acid, the electric bill was significant even with insulation. I believe the temp sensors are set for 70F degrees, and it would be wonderful if they could be adjusted to say 40F or replaced for 40F. I am still getting reasonable performance with the center pack starting temp at 25F with 1.5Ah/mile (TS 160Ah cells).
                      > >
                      > > Chip Chandler
                      > > cchandler66@...
                      > >
                      > > On Dec 3, 2012, at 3:34 PM, Wade Perry <perrypeas@...> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > > Thanks for the help Chip.
                      > > > I see those two pages, that's helpful.
                      > > > I kept the heating pads (with the hard plastic over top).
                      > > > I still have the temp sensor boxes, I haven't changed any of that (I did
                      > > > unplug and remove the ones in the front box).
                      > > > The temp sensor box in the rear battery box was indeed on top of the gel
                      > > > cels when I started. It's still plugged in, I just left it off to the side
                      > > > when I took the gels out.
                      > > > However I don't think I have the actual AC junction box anymore. Someone
                      > > > had changed the charger to a Zivan NG5 before I bought the car, maybe the
                      > > > junction box was lost then. I do know the AC power came straight into the
                      > > > NG5.
                      > > > Insulation I hadn't thought about too much- the gels came with a bunch of
                      > > > pink- type insulation material which I used around the lithiums too. I was
                      > > > just going to close up the box and see how well it did.
                      > > > Wade Perry
                      > > >
                      > > > On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 6:59 AM, Chandler Chip <cchandler66@...>wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > > On the file listing for this website, check out the 1998 Force Service
                      > > > > manual (Silverman), pages 49 and 53 in the appendix. They show the wiring
                      > > > > for the Thermal Management System starting from the AC junction box near
                      > > > > the charger and leading to the temp sensor boxes, one in each battery box,
                      > > > > if you still have the components for them. Those sensor boxes should be
                      > > > > installed on top of the batteries. Are your heating mats still in the
                      > > > > battery boxes under your new batteries? What insulation do you plan on
                      > > > > installing under and around your cells?
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Chip Chandler
                      > > > > cchandler66@...
                      > > > >
                      > > > > On Dec 2, 2012, at 1:47 AM, Wade Perry <perrypeas@...> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > > Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                      > > > > > from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and
                      > > > > discharge
                      > > > > > a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                      > > > > > probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                      > > > > > So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on.
                      > > > > Went
                      > > > > > well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                      > > > > > did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                      > > > > > Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                      > > > > > around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                      > > > > > 59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                      > > > > > Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                      > > > > > went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                      > > > > > .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                      > > > > > finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                      > > > > > they're reasonably well balanced.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                      > > > > > measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                      > > > > > Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                      > > > > > factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                      > > > > > out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                      > > > > > This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                      > > > > > would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                      > > > > > were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                      > > > > > all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                      > > > > > counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                      > > > > > undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                      > > > > > in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                      > > > > > charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was
                      > > > > concerned
                      > > > > > because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left
                      > > > > on
                      > > > > > the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14
                      > > > > or
                      > > > > > something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                      > > > > > cells.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                      > > > > > with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                      > > > > > taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                      > > > > > together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box.
                      > > > > Right
                      > > > > > now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                      > > > > > around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light
                      > > > > bulb
                      > > > > > back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                      > > > > > box, whenever the car's plugged in.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to
                      > > > > AC
                      > > > > > power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                      > > > > > August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                      > > > > > searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                      > > > > > where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                      > > > > > me to a resource about this?
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Thanks for the help!
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Wade Perry
                      > > > > > 1998 Force
                      > > > > > 56 CALB CA 60 Ahr
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > ------------------------------------
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > >
                      >
                      >



                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • d. Bouton Baldridge
                      I ll chime in here too. Tom has good advice. When I bought my 40 Ah TS cells the price was $63.00 per cell. Since the 60 Ah cells are now about the same
                      Message 10 of 29 , Dec 4, 2012
                      View Source
                      • 0 Attachment
                        I'll chime in here too. Tom has good advice. When I bought my 40 Ah TS cells the price was $63.00 per cell. Since the 60 Ah cells are now about the same price  as what I paid 4 years ago it makes no sense to use a 40 Ah cell today unless you live in a hot climate and on an island,  the sag is bad with the 40 Ah in cold weather. The only reason I have not upgraded is because they are still performing and as I mentioned before as a solar powered vehicle the smaller pack works well, also I want to see how long they will last. Right now it appears the car may fail before the batteries, got some switching issues going on. So my advice is go with the 60Ah unless you must drive longer distances then go with what ever you can afford.
                        Bouty  


                        ________________________________
                        From: "theoldcars@..." <theoldcars@...>
                        To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 9:47 PM
                        Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                         
                        Just a word of warning

                        The CALB cells are not rated as many sellers on the Internet are showing 3C
                        and 4C on their web sites. The SE series was rated by CALB at 1C and many
                        have put them under loads of 3C or 4C. There is no data that I am aware of
                        that shows cycle life under these higher C rates but it will be less.

                        The new CA series which are also called the gray cells are rated at 2C by
                        CALB.

                        If your going to put a higher C rate on a CALB cell I would recommend it be
                        the CA series.

                        CALB for the most part has stopped selling the SE series except for a few
                        sizes. The demand for the SE series has almost totally gone away with the
                        release of the CA series.

                        Jack from EVTV gives out some off some really off the wall advise and
                        information. While some of what he does is good he also chimes in with baseless
                        comments or beliefs that have no merit.

                        On the 40Ah cells your going to see far more voltage sag under load. Cycle
                        life would be less but as you point out its going to be a savings
                        regardless over lead. I would highly recommend the CA 60Ah cells. The 60Ah cells
                        hold their voltage very well. I know of one person who parallel two 40Ah of
                        SE40 and their voltage sags more then a pack of 60Ah CA cells in series.

                        Don Blazer


                        In a message dated 12/3/2012 8:34:09 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
                        mailto:ev64bug%40yahoo.com writes:

                        I have one question for Bouty:
                        How many miles do you have on your pack?

                        One question for the group:
                        Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?

                        I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000
                        miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to
                        24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very short
                        side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per mile.
                        I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when the
                        weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out. I'm
                        interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple of
                        reasons:

                        1. If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the
                        front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the 156V
                        wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack and
                        the controller.

                        2. The pack cost
                        is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are
                        around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping. 13 Deka
                        batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207 approx.)

                        3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161
                        lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to
                        have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel
                        like it is permanently going down a hill.

                        4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the
                        "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the
                        force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they should
                        be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the cells:
                        _http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/_
                        (http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/)

                        I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but
                        I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use
                        between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to 35Ahrs.

                        ________________________________
                        From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:_cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com_
                        (mailto:mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com) >
                        To: "mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com) "
                        <mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com) >
                        Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
                        Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                        Hi Wade,
                        In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your re
                        adings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity
                        having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is avoiding
                        going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just fine doing
                        that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that voltage is
                        not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have found the
                        reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up; for me it
                        was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the winter season
                        my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on the plus side
                        by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80 degrees. My guess for
                        you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack temp increases higher
                        than when you were driving and the voltage is slightly higher as a result
                        this stops the charger earlier than
                        the previous Ahour
                        reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in
                        or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged
                        routinely and had the automatic reset. I am a few months shy of 4 years and
                        this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact the
                        utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just
                        occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember
                        every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would
                        last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I might
                        find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on your
                        project FWIW,
                        Bouty

                        ________________________________
                        From: Wade Perry <mailto:_perrypeas%40gmail.com_ (mailto:mailto:perrypeas%40gmail.com) >
                        To: mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com)
                        Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
                        Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                        Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.

                        I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                        from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
                        a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                        probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                        So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
                        well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                        did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                        Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                        around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                        59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                        Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                        _https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQk
                        FlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html_
                        (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html)

                        The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                        went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                        .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                        finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                        they're reasonably well balanced.

                        One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                        measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                        Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                        factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                        out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                        This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.

                        Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                        would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                        were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                        all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                        counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                        undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                        in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)

                        This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                        charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
                        because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
                        the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
                        something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                        cells.

                        Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                        with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                        taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                        together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
                        now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                        around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
                        back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                        box, whenever the car's plugged in.

                        So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
                        power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                        August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                        searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                        where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                        me to a resource about this?

                        Thanks for the help!

                        Wade Perry
                        1998 Force
                        56 CALB CA 60 Ahr

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • d. Bouton Baldridge
                        Oh I forgot to mention, I had been told by a Sinopoly (formly TS) dealer that TS and SkyEnergy (Calb) originally were the two primary cell makers, and Sky
                        Message 11 of 29 , Dec 4, 2012
                        View Source
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Oh I forgot to mention, I had been told by a Sinopoly (formly TS) dealer that TS and SkyEnergy (Calb) originally were the two primary cell makers, and Sky (Calb) made the cells for their military so they were quite rugged could provide serious current, but that they had a shorter life than the TS. I have not used any Calbs, but I can attest to the TSs since I have at least 5 times brought the same group of cells back to life from 0v. Not on purpose mind you. My guess is that Calb has probably improved their product to give longer life with their new line, it is obvious that they have not been stingy with capacity sometimes 15% higher than rating. which would seem good except if your batch of cells are not matched, just keep it between the knees! good luck.
                          Bouty


                          ________________________________
                          From: "theoldcars@..." <theoldcars@...>
                          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Monday, December 3, 2012 9:47 PM
                          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                           
                          Just a word of warning

                          The CALB cells are not rated as many sellers on the Internet are showing 3C
                          and 4C on their web sites. The SE series was rated by CALB at 1C and many
                          have put them under loads of 3C or 4C. There is no data that I am aware of
                          that shows cycle life under these higher C rates but it will be less.

                          The new CA series which are also called the gray cells are rated at 2C by
                          CALB.

                          If your going to put a higher C rate on a CALB cell I would recommend it be
                          the CA series.

                          CALB for the most part has stopped selling the SE series except for a few
                          sizes. The demand for the SE series has almost totally gone away with the
                          release of the CA series.

                          Jack from EVTV gives out some off some really off the wall advise and
                          information. While some of what he does is good he also chimes in with baseless
                          comments or beliefs that have no merit.

                          On the 40Ah cells your going to see far more voltage sag under load. Cycle
                          life would be less but as you point out its going to be a savings
                          regardless over lead. I would highly recommend the CA 60Ah cells. The 60Ah cells
                          hold their voltage very well. I know of one person who parallel two 40Ah of
                          SE40 and their voltage sags more then a pack of 60Ah CA cells in series.

                          Don Blazer


                          In a message dated 12/3/2012 8:34:09 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
                          mailto:ev64bug%40yahoo.com writes:

                          I have one question for Bouty:
                          How many miles do you have on your pack?

                          One question for the group:
                          Does anyone have the dimension for the inside of the front battery box?

                          I'm really interesting in Bouty's configuration. After 7 years and 22,000
                          miles my poor old Pb pack is on it's last legs. I'm able to get 22 to
                          24Ahrs out of the pack which is enough for a round trip to work and a very short
                          side trip. Since the pack is fairly weak it takes 1.5 to 1.6Ahr per mile.
                          I'm trying to hold out until summer for my switch to lithium when the
                          weather is a little better and I have my battery monitor tested out. I'm
                          interested in putting 49 40Ahr CALB "grey" cells (CA40BFI) for a couple of
                          reasons:

                          1. If my measurements are correct the complete pack should fit in the
                          front battery box in a 7x7 array. By moving the charger up front all the 156V
                          wiring will be under the hood with a very short run between the pack and
                          the controller.

                          2. The pack cost
                          is comparable to if not cheaper than the Deka equivalent. 40Ahr CALBs are
                          around $55 each. 49 x $55 = $2,695 before tax and shipping. 13 Deka
                          batteries would have to be $207 just to be comparable ($2,695 / 13 = $207 approx.)

                          3. My car will be shedding 661lb. The CALB cells at 3.3lb each x 49 = 161
                          lb vs the 822lb (63.2lb x 13) of the current pack. I'm probably going to
                          have to find the original springs for the Geo, otherwise the car will feel
                          like it is permanently going down a hill.

                          4. The "blue" CALBs (SE40AHA) already have fantastic C ratings and the
                          "grey" cells have better cold weather performance. The max current of the
                          force at around 240A dc should be no problem for the 40Ahr cells, they should
                          be able to handle C6. There is some interesting test data on the cells:
                          _http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/_
                          (http://blog.evtv.me/2012/06/battery-jump-shift/)

                          I know the general consensus is that 60 Ahr or 100 Ahr is preferable, but
                          I've been logging all my driving for the past 7 years, most days I use
                          between 16Ahrs and 20Ahrs and only a few times did I even come close to 35Ahrs.

                          ________________________________
                          From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:_cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com_
                          (mailto:mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com) >
                          To: "mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com) "
                          <mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com) >
                          Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 7:26 AM
                          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                          Hi Wade,
                          In my opinion, the balance thing has been greatly over blown and your re
                          adings are perefectly acceptable especially after using so much capacity
                          having only +/-.1 v or so from the mean is fantastic. The big thing is avoiding
                          going beyond the knees and your system seems to be working just fine doing
                          that. As for the Ahmeter issue, It has been my experience that voltage is
                          not a reliable means for determining capacity. In my case I have found the
                          reaching the limiting voltage was caused by the pack warming up; for me it
                          was the sun. Now that the ambient temperature is lower in the winter season
                          my charge resets closer to zero, but in summer it stops on the plus side
                          by .1 ah each cycle when the outside temp is above 80 degrees. My guess for
                          you is that when you charge for a few hours, the pack temp increases higher
                          than when you were driving and the voltage is slightly higher as a result
                          this stops the charger earlier than
                          the previous Ahour
                          reading. I am not sure if this is happening as a function of breaking in
                          or aging. But it was not an issue with lead since it woul be overcharged
                          routinely and had the automatic reset. I am a few months shy of 4 years and
                          this slight precession is only an annoyance it has not seemed to impact the
                          utility of my pack. Since I have a pretty long warm season I would just
                          occasionaly reset the Ah meter to zero just so I wouldn't have to remember
                          every time. Now that my cells are getting twice as old as any Pb pack would
                          last, I am getting into new territory for longevity and at some point I might
                          find some of these answers, but for now I am saying congratulation on your
                          project FWIW,
                          Bouty

                          ________________________________
                          From: Wade Perry <mailto:_perrypeas%40gmail.com_ (mailto:mailto:perrypeas%40gmail.com) >
                          To: mailto:_solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com)
                          Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:47 AM
                          Subject: [solectria_ev] Thermal Management System

                          Greetings all- I've driven over 1,000 miles on lithium now.

                          I drove a fair bit today, it was mostly empty when I was coming back home
                          from the last errand so I thought I'd take the long way home and discharge
                          a bit more than I usually do. Until today the maximum I'd taken out is
                          probably around 45 Ahr. I had set my limit around 50 to be safe.
                          So after I got home I drove the block a few times with the heater on. Went
                          well past 50. I measured pack voltage and some individual cells while I
                          did this and felt fairly safe as I was getting down towards the bottom.
                          Finally drove it around one last time in econ with no heater and it was
                          around 57.5 when I was done. Then I ran the heater by itself to get it to
                          59. Took the voltage on each cell.
                          Made a new column to my battery balancing spreadsheet, it's here-
                          _https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQk
                          FlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html_
                          (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0An5nm8itUMMcdHhQV3RsSUdfbzRTQkFlNmtaSy05MHc&output=html)

                          The cells were springing back as I was measuring them. When I was done I
                          went back and measured CK, where I'd started measuring the pack. it was
                          .04 volts higher than I'd written down the first time. By the time I was
                          finishing measuring, all the cells were coming in around 3.04 or 3.05. So
                          they're reasonably well balanced.

                          One cell stands out. JA. It measured 2.93 when its adjacent cells were
                          measuring an entire ~0.10 volt higher. I haven't figured it out yet.
                          Other than it happens to be the one that I noticed arrived from the
                          factory at 4.23% below 50% SOC. You can see that on the sheet. It stood
                          out at the time because all the other cells came in at 1 or 2% over 50.
                          This was the only one that was below, and by a fair amount.

                          Anyway then I ran the heater some more, watching JA in particular. It
                          would have been cool to have a graph of all the cells at once. But they
                          were falling off quite quickly. Some dipped down to 2.75 or so. JA dipped
                          all the way down to 2.50. But I discharged down to a full 60.00 Ahr on my
                          counter! Finished with a pack voltage of around 160. (which was
                          undoubtedly springing up also. I didn't wait around to check but plugged
                          in the charger so I can drive again tomorrow)

                          This is great, because I had feared I was losing capacity permanently by
                          charging below freezing. I'd hoped this wasn't the case, but was concerned
                          because on especially cold days there'd be +1.00 or +2.00 Ahr still left on
                          the counter when the charger shut off. Warmer days I'd be back to -0.14 or
                          something like that. I'd been worried that I was gradually damaging the
                          cells.

                          Apparently I'm not. Or at least not to the extent I'd feared. This is
                          with a battery box that's not even put together yet- the 60 Ahr cells are
                          taller than the gels I took out, so when I finally do get things put
                          together properly, I'll need to shim the cover over the battery box. Right
                          now it rests on top of the cells, so there's probably a 1" space all
                          around, letting cold air in. I did put in a 60watt incandescent light bulb
                          back there to keep things warmer (and bright and cheery) in the battery
                          box, whenever the car's plugged in.

                          So. What I'd really like to do is hook up the Solectria heating mats to AC
                          power, so I can be more setup for winter. I myself took it apart back in
                          August, but obviously didn't pay much attention to what I was doing. I've
                          searched this list repeatedly but can't find anything that talks about
                          where the AC power hooks up to the heaters / sensors... Can anyone point
                          me to a resource about this?

                          Thanks for the help!

                          Wade Perry
                          1998 Force
                          56 CALB CA 60 Ahr

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.