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Re: [solectria_ev] Re: '97 Force CALB 100 Upgrade

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  • Tom Hudson
    OK, I m just wrapping up some final bits and pieces on this car, but it is looking GREAT. In process: * Wiring in the rear pack temperature sensor -- the
    Message 1 of 43 , Nov 5, 2012
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      OK, I'm just wrapping up some final bits and pieces on this car, but it is looking GREAT.
      In process:

      * Wiring in the rear pack temperature sensor -- the front's went in the other day, because
      I needed to close up that battery box to get the controller in place for the test drive.
      I don't have charge voltage temperature compensation programmed into the charger yet,
      because I don't have any information on exactly what the compensation should be. Not a
      big deal now because charging the batteries in my cool garage showed little or no
      temperature increase, but I want to have that set up before the weather warms up next year
      -- at the very least, a derating of voltage and current when the battery temperature goes
      above some threshold, just in case operating the car in hot weather causes some battery

      * Hooking up the fuel-fired heater -- When I put the NiCD batteries in this car back in
      2001-2002, the new battery box forced the controller to be mounted differently than
      before, and there was no longer any room to fit the gallon-sized kerosene tank in the
      engine compartment, so I simply left the heater disconnected and have relied on the
      electric heat since then. I decided to get that all back up and running, so I refilled
      the coolant, reconnected the hoses and old fuel tank and did a test-run of the heater a
      couple of days ago -- after about 10 seconds, the little heater unit fired right up. The
      fuel tank still won't fit, so I went to the US Plastic Corp website and found a 2-quart
      one that will -- Should have that by the end of this week and will get it installed when
      it arrives.

      * Trunk blocking and trim -- Once the rear temperature sensor is installed and that
      battery box is bolted shut, I'll adjust the foam blocks around the new charger and get the
      carpeting back in there.

      * Take the car in tomorrow for a lube job, gearbox oil change and to check on a little
      periodic rubbing sound coming from the front. I believe the sound is a brake needing
      adjustment -- the sound varies with wheel speed, and if I press the brake pedal slightly,
      the sound goes away.

      On Sunday, when the car had been sitting overnight, I went in and measured the battery
      voltages, which were all within 0.02 volts of each other -- excellent.

      This morning I took a 14-mile drive at 45+ MPH just to see how the car would do. This is
      the same trip where the motor heated up terribly a while back with the NiCDs. When I got
      to the destination I popped the hood and felt the motor cooling fins, which were just
      barely warm. The motor controller was ice cold. Checked again when I got home and
      nothing was hot. It is amazing to me how efficient that motor controller is -- no waste
      heat at all! The trip was 14.3 miles and took 14.4 Ah. Not bad, especially considering
      that there is some friction in the system from that dragging brake (or whatever it is).

      Started a top-off charge when I got home and re-measured the voltages in the pack as it
      was charging -- all batteries were at 3.35V (charge target voltage is 3.4V), no variation.

      So, after I get the rubbing noise straightened out tomorrow and get the rear pack all
      buttoned up, I consider this car 100% ready to go. All in all, a very easy upgrade. The
      worst part was bottom-balancing all the batteries, which took about a week with two
      Powerlab 6 chargers and battery swaps every couple of hours, with overnight discharges of
      gangs of 3-4 batteries. Compared to the previous upgrade to NiCD batteries, which
      involved massive amounts of fabrication work including coolant plumbing, this was a cake walk.


      Thomas Hudson
      http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
      http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
    • m_sev@juno.com
      I think my charger (picture attached - label is illegible) is over-charging my batteries, can anyone point me in the direction of how to check and change the
      Message 43 of 43 , Nov 21, 2012
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        I think my charger (picture attached - label is illegible) is over-charging my batteries, can anyone point me in the direction of how to check and change the programming?


        ---------- Original Message ----------
        From: "geo_homsy2" <geo.homsy@...>
        To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [solectria_ev] Questions on NLG4 programming -- please help
        Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 19:08:50 -0000

        I have a few questions about NLG4 programming. Perhaps someone can help me.

        Specifically, I do not understand the following aspects of my default solectria charge profile (this was for the 13x Deka G27). Not understanding aspects of the factory profile, makes it very difficult for me to program a new profile.

        Here are my points of confusion:

        In section 1 of the profile, the U-limitation is 183.3. However, there is a criterion to pass to the next section, of "absolute voltage above 195.00". How in the world could this condition ever obtain, if the U-limitation is 183.3??

        Similarly, in section 2, the I-limitation is 3 amps. However, there is a condition to pass to previous section, of "Absolute current above 25 Amp". How can this condition ever be true?

        Also in section 2, there is a pass-to-next criterion of "multiplicated charge sum above 0.0". How is this condition ever NOT immediately true???

        What in the world is going on here? These conditions are absolutely meaningless, unless I really do not understand what the settings mean.

        And one final question: When does the charger decide to switch off? In section 3 of my original solectria profile, I-limitation is 9 amps, and U-limitation is 176.8 volts. There are no previous or next conditions. The green light (output 4) is on. Somehow, something in this section switches the charger off. Is it output 4? If so, then why is I-limitation set to non-zero???

        Does anyone have any elucidation for me? Or does anyone have a better manual for the NLG4 that discusses programming in more detail?

        Many thanks,



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