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DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.

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  • johnnydwa
    Okay - my sob-story I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don t run beyond 20-25AH before charging up. Last night, I am running my
    Message 1 of 17 , Aug 28, 2012
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      Okay - my sob-story

      I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run beyond 20-25AH before charging up.

      Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay - I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.

      Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be working okay.

      I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load so I don't think it is a battery.

      Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later, checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.

      Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts, things to check etc.

      If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?

      Thanks in advance.

      My best
    • William Swann
      I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann ... -- Thanks, Bill
      Message 2 of 17 , Aug 28, 2012
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        I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector
        gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann

        On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > Okay - my sob-story
        >
        > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
        > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
        >
        > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a
        > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to
        > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to
        > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay -
        > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
        >
        > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
        > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be
        > working okay.
        >
        > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load
        > so I don't think it is a battery.
        >
        > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
        > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
        > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the
        > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
        >
        > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under
        > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
        > things to check etc.
        >
        > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
        >
        > Thanks in advance.
        >
        > My best
        >
        >
        >



        --
        Thanks, Bill S
        Ph 832-338-3080
        www.watt-tracker.com
        www.promotingevs.com


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • d. Bouton Baldridge
        with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not
        Message 3 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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          with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not necessarily reveal a weak cell but under load it will. I'd guess that it is time to replace the pack.
          Bouty 


          ________________________________
          From: johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...>
          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 6:24 PM
          Subject: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.


           
          Okay - my sob-story

          I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run beyond 20-25AH before charging up.

          Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay - I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.

          Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be working okay.

          I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load so I don't think it is a battery.

          Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later, checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.

          Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts, things to check etc.

          If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?

          Thanks in advance.

          My best




          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • kevin lubot
          Have you cleaned/protected the 9 and 25 pin connectors at the controller?   If you want to see if you are dropping below crawl and dont have a volt meter on
          Message 4 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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            Have you cleaned/protected the 9 and 25 pin connectors at the controller?
             
            If you want to see if you are dropping below crawl and dont have a volt meter on the dash, jam your multimeter probes into the big anderson and run it to the outside top of the hood and see where the voltage goes when you step on it. id think it would move some at least not just be dead. The 25 pin and 9 pins are next to check id think.
             


            ________________________________
            From: d. Bouton Baldridge <cfrkeepr@...>
            To: "solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:38 AM
            Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.



             

            with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not necessarily reveal a weak cell but under load it will. I'd guess that it is time to replace the pack.
            Bouty 

            ________________________________
            From: johnnydwa <mailto:johnnydwa%40yahoo.com>
            To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 6:24 PM
            Subject: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.

             
            Okay - my sob-story

            I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run beyond 20-25AH before charging up.

            Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay - I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.

            Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be working okay.

            I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load so I don't think it is a battery.

            Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later, checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.

            Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts, things to check etc.

            If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?

            Thanks in advance.

            My best

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Ray Darby
            I had repeated problems with the 9 & 25 pin under the hood – contact cleaner worked great, for a while, then that plus di-electric grease, then when that
            Message 5 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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              I had repeated problems with the 9 & 25 pin under the hood – contact cleaner worked great, for a while, then that plus di-electric grease, then when that failed to work I replaced them and problem was solved. Given your problem started under the dash, however, it could be that phone plug style connector mentioned by William Swan.

              From: kevin lubot
              Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:45 AM
              To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.


              Have you cleaned/protected the 9 and 25 pin connectors at the controller?

              If you want to see if you are dropping below crawl and dont have a volt meter on the dash, jam your multimeter probes into the big anderson and run it to the outside top of the hood and see where the voltage goes when you step on it. id think it would move some at least not just be dead. The 25 pin and 9 pins are next to check id think.



              ________________________________
              From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com>
              To: "mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:38 AM
              Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.




              with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not necessarily reveal a weak cell but under load it will. I'd guess that it is time to replace the pack.
              Bouty

              ________________________________
              From: johnnydwa <mailto:johnnydwa%40yahoo.com>
              To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 6:24 PM
              Subject: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.


              Okay - my sob-story

              I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run beyond 20-25AH before charging up.

              Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay - I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.

              Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be working okay.

              I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load so I don't think it is a battery.

              Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later, checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.

              Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts, things to check etc.

              If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?

              Thanks in advance.

              My best

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • kevin lubot
              oh thats true i forgot about the radio being changed out. ________________________________ From: Ray Darby To:
              Message 6 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                oh thats true i forgot about the radio being changed out.



                ________________________________
                From: Ray Darby <raydarby@...>
                To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 11:18 AM
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.



                 

                I had repeated problems with the 9 & 25 pin under the hood – contact cleaner worked great, for a while, then that plus di-electric grease, then when that failed to work I replaced them and problem was solved. Given your problem started under the dash, however, it could be that phone plug style connector mentioned by William Swan.

                From: kevin lubot
                Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:45 AM
                To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.

                Have you cleaned/protected the 9 and 25 pin connectors at the controller?

                If you want to see if you are dropping below crawl and dont have a volt meter on the dash, jam your multimeter probes into the big anderson and run it to the outside top of the hood and see where the voltage goes when you step on it. id think it would move some at least not just be dead. The 25 pin and 9 pins are next to check id think.


                ________________________________
                From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com>
                To: "mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:38 AM
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.

                with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not necessarily reveal a weak cell but under load it will. I'd guess that it is time to replace the pack.
                Bouty

                ________________________________
                From: johnnydwa <mailto:johnnydwa%40yahoo.com>
                To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 6:24 PM
                Subject: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain trust.

                Okay - my sob-story

                I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run beyond 20-25AH before charging up.

                Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay - I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.

                Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be working okay.

                I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load so I don't think it is a battery.

                Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later, checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.

                Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts, things to check etc.

                If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?

                Thanks in advance.

                My best

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • William Swann
                One bad battery will impair electric driveability, but maybe not impact operation of the DC/DC converter. Recommend checking individual battery voltages. I bet
                Message 7 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                  One bad battery will impair electric driveability, but maybe not impact
                  operation of the DC/DC converter. Recommend checking individual battery
                  voltages. I bet one is way down in voltage.

                  On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 10:18 AM, Ray Darby <
                  raydarby@...> wrote:

                  > **
                  >
                  >
                  > I had repeated problems with the 9 & 25 pin under the hood � contact
                  > cleaner worked great, for a while, then that plus di-electric grease, then
                  > when that failed to work I replaced them and problem was solved. Given your
                  > problem started under the dash, however, it could be that phone plug style
                  > connector mentioned by William Swan.
                  >
                  > From: kevin lubot
                  > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:45 AM
                  > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev
                  > brain trust.
                  >
                  > Have you cleaned/protected the 9 and 25 pin connectors at the controller?
                  >
                  > If you want to see if you are dropping below crawl and dont have a volt
                  > meter on the dash, jam your multimeter probes into the big anderson and run
                  > it to the outside top of the hood and see where the voltage goes when you
                  > step on it. id think it would move some at least not just be dead. The 25
                  > pin and 9 pins are next to check id think.
                  >
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: d. Bouton Baldridge <mailto:cfrkeepr%40yahoo.com>
                  > To: "mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:
                  > solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
                  > Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:38 AM
                  > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev
                  > brain trust.
                  >
                  > with that many miles on your Pb pack, any stress, heat, high drain or long
                  > duration will pull out the weak cells ; the resting pack voltage will not
                  > necessarily reveal a weak cell but under load it will. I'd guess that it is
                  > time to replace the pack.
                  > Bouty
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: johnnydwa <mailto:johnnydwa%40yahoo.com>
                  > To: mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 6:24 PM
                  > Subject: [solectria_ev] DOA - Need assistance from the Solectria_ev brain
                  > trust.
                  >
                  > Okay - my sob-story
                  >
                  > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
                  > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                  >
                  > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a
                  > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to
                  > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to
                  > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay -
                  > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
                  >
                  > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
                  > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be
                  > working okay.
                  >
                  > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load
                  > so I don't think it is a battery.
                  >
                  > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
                  > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
                  > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the
                  > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                  >
                  > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under
                  > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
                  > things to check etc.
                  >
                  > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                  >
                  > Thanks in advance.
                  >
                  > My best
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  >
                  >



                  --
                  Thanks, Bill S
                  Ph 832-338-3080
                  www.watt-tracker.com
                  www.promotingevs.com


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Ken Olum
                  I don t see how this can be caused by a weak battery. If that were the problem, you d expect the car to move at least a little before the battery used up what
                  Message 8 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                    I don't see how this can be caused by a weak battery. If that were
                    the problem, you'd expect the car to move at least a little before the
                    battery used up what little energy it could provide. (A quick check
                    is to see whether the heater works. It draws 10A or so, which is
                    enough to move the car slowly, so if the heater works but the car
                    won't go, it's not the batteries.) The loose-connection story sounds
                    likely to me.

                    But it turns out your controller is bad, see if Jim Leuba and Reed
                    Bement will fix it for you.

                    Do you really have 33K miles on this battery pack, or is that the
                    total mileage on the car? If the former, you're doing remarkably
                    well.

                    Ken
                  • ldr214
                    See message #7878 There are weak batteries and then there are reversed cells. The problem could be something other than a weak/dead/reversed cell but it is
                    Message 9 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                      See message #7878

                      There are weak batteries and then there are reversed cells. The problem could be something other than a weak/dead/reversed cell but it is easy to test and prevents a lot of wasted time guessing. When I had cells fail last year in the heat I would have bet money it was the controller until I loaded the pack.

                      Hope you find the problem.

                      Mike

                      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Ken Olum <kdo@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I don't see how this can be caused by a weak battery. If that were
                      > the problem, you'd expect the car to move at least a little before the
                      > battery used up what little energy it could provide. (A quick check
                      > is to see whether the heater works. It draws 10A or so, which is
                      > enough to move the car slowly, so if the heater works but the car
                      > won't go, it's not the batteries.) The loose-connection story sounds
                      > likely to me.
                      >
                      > But it turns out your controller is bad, see if Jim Leuba and Reed
                      > Bement will fix it for you.
                      >
                      > Do you really have 33K miles on this battery pack, or is that the
                      > total mileage on the car? If the former, you're doing remarkably
                      > well.
                      >
                      > Ken
                      >
                    • johnnydwa
                      Wow the Brain Trust is great. Thanks for your thoughts - Keep them coming! To update all, here s the latest: I noticed that the junction box that s mounted
                      Message 10 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                        Wow the Brain Trust is great. Thanks for your thoughts - Keep them coming!

                        To update all, here's the latest:

                        I noticed that the "junction box" that's mounted on the motor clicks (tick-tick-tick) when I put the car in reverse (key on) - but not in any other setting.

                        I get a clunk from the engine compartment when I turn the key on and off (tri-selector in off). Is there a big relay somewhere to check?

                        I don't think the radio had anything to do with anything, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

                        I really don't think it is battery related. The 164V I was getting was under heater and High beam load at the Anderson Connector. - I've successfully used that before to track down a weak/dead/reversing cell. I am not getting any voltage drop when I put the car in drive and press down on the pedal.

                        Are there relays or fuse between the ignition and controller that might have gone bad?

                        **One question I have is about "large phone connector". Is it something critical to the drive system? Would it being loose be enough to shut down the entire car?

                        The answer about the battery pack is "not really sure" - as the previous owner replaced cells as they failed. I have continued to do the same and have replaced two of the cells. My pack does have an old school BMS system (BADICHEQ) that does balance the pack. I checked the voltages of the rear pack and all were 12.7V under heater/hi-beam load - I'll check the front pack today - just to be sure.

                        I charged the pack overnight and will go upside-down today to take a look for the large phone connector and I'll check and grease up the 9 and 12 pin connectors while I am at it. I am getting a light clunk from the controller when I put the key in.

                        I'll give an update tomorrow.

                        Keep your ideas coming.

                        My best,

                        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Ken Olum <kdo@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > I don't see how this can be caused by a weak battery. If that were
                        > the problem, you'd expect the car to move at least a little before the
                        > battery used up what little energy it could provide. (A quick check
                        > is to see whether the heater works. It draws 10A or so, which is
                        > enough to move the car slowly, so if the heater works but the car
                        > won't go, it's not the batteries.) The loose-connection story sounds
                        > likely to me.
                        >
                        > But it turns out your controller is bad, see if Jim Leuba and Reed
                        > Bement will fix it for you.
                        >
                        > Do you really have 33K miles on this battery pack, or is that the
                        > total mileage on the car? If the former, you're doing remarkably
                        > well.
                        >
                        > Ken
                        >
                      • johnnydwa
                        Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the vehicle? Thanks Johnnydwa
                        Message 11 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                          Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the vehicle?

                          Thanks

                          Johnnydwa

                          --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector
                          > gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann
                          >
                          > On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > > **
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Okay - my sob-story
                          > >
                          > > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
                          > > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                          > >
                          > > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that includes a
                          > > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come to
                          > > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to try to
                          > > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg... Okay -
                          > > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
                          > >
                          > > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
                          > > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem to be
                          > > working okay.
                          > >
                          > > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights load
                          > > so I don't think it is a battery.
                          > >
                          > > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
                          > > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
                          > > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then tested the
                          > > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                          > >
                          > > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up under
                          > > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
                          > > things to check etc.
                          > >
                          > > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                          > >
                          > > Thanks in advance.
                          > >
                          > > My best
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > --
                          > Thanks, Bill S
                          > Ph 832-338-3080
                          > www.watt-tracker.com
                          > www.promotingevs.com
                          >
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                        • William Swann
                          I shut me down once. It was embarrassing, because I was showing some doubters an EV. Did you find the fix in the files section? ... -- Thanks, Bill S Ph
                          Message 12 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
                          • 0 Attachment
                            I shut me down once. It was embarrassing, because I was showing some
                            doubters an EV. Did you find the fix in the files section?

                            On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 6:27 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:

                            > **
                            >
                            >
                            > Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the vehicle?
                            >
                            > Thanks
                            >
                            > Johnnydwa
                            >
                            > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@...>
                            > wrote:
                            > >
                            > > I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector
                            > > gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann
                            > >
                            > > On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > > **
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > Okay - my sob-story
                            > > >
                            > > > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
                            > > > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                            > > >
                            > > > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that
                            > includes a
                            > > > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come
                            > to
                            > > > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to
                            > try to
                            > > > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg...
                            > Okay -
                            > > > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
                            > > >
                            > > > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
                            > > > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem
                            > to be
                            > > > working okay.
                            > > >
                            > > > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights
                            > load
                            > > > so I don't think it is a battery.
                            > > >
                            > > > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
                            > > > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
                            > > > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then
                            > tested the
                            > > > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                            > > >
                            > > > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up
                            > under
                            > > > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
                            > > > things to check etc.
                            > > >
                            > > > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                            > > >
                            > > > Thanks in advance.
                            > > >
                            > > > My best
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > --
                            > > Thanks, Bill S
                            > > Ph 832-338-3080
                            > > www.watt-tracker.com
                            > > www.promotingevs.com
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            > >
                            >
                            >
                            >



                            --
                            Thanks, Bill S
                            Ph 832-338-3080
                            www.watt-tracker.com
                            www.promotingevs.com


                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • johnnydwa
                            Yes, I took a look. I checked mine and it seems fairly secure. I am beginning to think I blew something in the controller - climbing uphill + Power setting
                            Message 13 of 17 , Aug 29, 2012
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                              Yes, I took a look. I checked mine and it seems fairly secure. I am beginning to think I blew something in the controller - climbing uphill + Power setting resulting in no crawl-home. I noticed that I am getting some ticking noises from the motor (sounds the same as a turn signal) when selector is set in reverse. So some charge is getting through.

                              I will first try greasing up the 9 and 12 pin connections and see if that helps.

                              I may disassemble the controller to see if I can see any damage I am not a big fan of large capacitors, but I know to discharge them.

                              Any other thoughts?
                              --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > I shut me down once. It was embarrassing, because I was showing some
                              > doubters an EV. Did you find the fix in the files section?
                              >
                              > On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 6:27 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > > **
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the vehicle?
                              > >
                              > > Thanks
                              > >
                              > > Johnnydwa
                              > >
                              > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@>
                              > > wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector
                              > > > gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann
                              > > >
                              > > > On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > > **
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Okay - my sob-story
                              > > > >
                              > > > > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
                              > > > > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that
                              > > includes a
                              > > > > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come
                              > > to
                              > > > > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to
                              > > try to
                              > > > > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg...
                              > > Okay -
                              > > > > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
                              > > > > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem
                              > > to be
                              > > > > working okay.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights
                              > > load
                              > > > > so I don't think it is a battery.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
                              > > > > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
                              > > > > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then
                              > > tested the
                              > > > > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up
                              > > under
                              > > > > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
                              > > > > things to check etc.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Thanks in advance.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > My best
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > --
                              > > > Thanks, Bill S
                              > > > Ph 832-338-3080
                              > > > www.watt-tracker.com
                              > > > www.promotingevs.com
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              > > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > --
                              > Thanks, Bill S
                              > Ph 832-338-3080
                              > www.watt-tracker.com
                              > www.promotingevs.com
                              >
                              >
                              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              >
                            • Rex Allison
                              My stock 1996 charger has been working intermittently so I decided to remove it and replace it with a homebrew solution. My batteries are older Dekas and I
                              Message 14 of 17 , Aug 30, 2012
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                                My stock 1996 charger has been working intermittently so I decided to remove it and replace it with a homebrew solution. My batteries are older Dekas and I wanted to use this opportunity to experiment with my own charging solution before I make the leap to FePO4. If someone is interested in purchasing the charger with the accompanying charger indicator box, AC fuse box, temp sensors, and misc cables, please contact me off list. It might be worth sending off to Wolftronix for repair if he is still providing the service.
                                Thanks,
                                Rex

                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • Wolf
                                Yup, I still fix them... $350.00 to swap out the cap board. This fixes chargers are still working, but are not outputting 100% rated power. And if anyone wants
                                Message 15 of 17 , Sep 1, 2012
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                                  Yup, I still fix them...

                                  $350.00 to swap out the cap board.
                                  This fixes chargers are still working, but are not outputting 100% rated
                                  power.

                                  And if anyone wants to fix the charger your self, I have the
                                  following available:

                                  $50.00 for the NLG4 Replacement Capacitor Printed Circuit Board:
                                  http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300_1723/images/IMG_2274.jpg

                                  $150 for the NLG4 Replacement Capacitor Printed Circuit Assembly:
                                  http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300_1723/images/IMG_2285.jpg

                                  I have not gotten around to doing the write up yet... but this picture
                                  group is the step by step procedure to disassemble, replace the cap board,
                                  and reassemble the NLG4 charger:
                                  http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300_1094/index.htm

                                  All proceeds go to my E-10 lithium-ion battery fund. ;)

                                  Speaking of which has anyone done a lithium-ion E10 yet?

                                  On Thu, Aug 30, 2012 at 2:59 PM, Rex Allison <ev64bug@...> wrote:

                                  > **
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > My stock 1996 charger has been working intermittently so I decided to
                                  > remove it and replace it with a homebrew solution. My batteries are older
                                  > Dekas and I wanted to use this opportunity to experiment with my own
                                  > charging solution before I make the leap to FePO4. If someone is interested
                                  > in purchasing the charger with the accompanying charger indicator box, AC
                                  > fuse box, temp sensors, and misc cables, please contact me off list. It
                                  > might be worth sending off to Wolftronix for repair if he is still
                                  > providing the service.
                                  > Thanks,
                                  > Rex
                                  >
                                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >



                                  --
                                  Wolf
                                  *wags his tail*
                                  www.wolftronix.com


                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                • johnnydwa
                                  Many moons later - here s the status on the story. As it turned out the main fuse in the controller blew. After some tips from Reed Bement on testing the
                                  Message 16 of 17 , Oct 27, 2012
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Many moons later - here's the status on the story. As it turned out the main fuse in the controller blew. After some tips from Reed Bement on testing the DB25 and DB9 values using a breakout box, and replacing the db25 and db9 connectors. I got the controller back in. The controller powers up and moves the vehicle slowly (0.5 mph), but not enough to get anywhere. I also did Bill Swann's fix of the T-connectors, so those are good (I do think that was the earlier intermittant problem I was having).

                                    Any ideas on next steps?

                                    Thanks.I am getting tired of putting $4 gas in the non-EV.

                                    Johnnydwa



                                    --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "johnnydwa" <johnnydwa@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > Yes, I took a look. I checked mine and it seems fairly secure. I am beginning to think I blew something in the controller - climbing uphill + Power setting resulting in no crawl-home. I noticed that I am getting some ticking noises from the motor (sounds the same as a turn signal) when selector is set in reverse. So some charge is getting through.
                                    >
                                    > I will first try greasing up the 9 and 12 pin connections and see if that helps.
                                    >
                                    > I may disassemble the controller to see if I can see any damage I am not a big fan of large capacitors, but I know to discharge them.
                                    >
                                    > Any other thoughts?
                                    > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > I shut me down once. It was embarrassing, because I was showing some
                                    > > doubters an EV. Did you find the fix in the files section?
                                    > >
                                    > > On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 6:27 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > > **
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the vehicle?
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Thanks
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Johnnydwa
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@>
                                    > > > wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone connector
                                    > > > > gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > > **
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Okay - my sob-story
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally don't run
                                    > > > > > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that
                                    > > > includes a
                                    > > > > > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out, I come
                                    > > > to
                                    > > > > > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power to
                                    > > > try to
                                    > > > > > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden - nothinnngg...
                                    > > > Okay -
                                    > > > > > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl home.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from the
                                    > > > > > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those seem
                                    > > > to be
                                    > > > > > working okay.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under heater+headlights
                                    > > > load
                                    > > > > > so I don't think it is a battery.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the car and
                                    > > > > > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back later,
                                    > > > > > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then
                                    > > > tested the
                                    > > > > > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given up
                                    > > > under
                                    > > > > > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any thoughts,
                                    > > > > > things to check etc.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Thanks in advance.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > My best
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > --
                                    > > > > Thanks, Bill S
                                    > > > > Ph 832-338-3080
                                    > > > > www.watt-tracker.com
                                    > > > > www.promotingevs.com
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    > > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > --
                                    > > Thanks, Bill S
                                    > > Ph 832-338-3080
                                    > > www.watt-tracker.com
                                    > > www.promotingevs.com
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    > >
                                    >
                                  • Jeremy Smithson
                                    Hi John, We were in the same boat so we sent our controller and speed sensor card off to Andreas Kruspan in Switzerland. $900 later, including shipping both
                                    Message 17 of 17 , Oct 27, 2012
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Hi John,

                                      We were in the same boat so we sent our controller and speed sensor card
                                      off to Andreas Kruspan in Switzerland. $900 later, including shipping both
                                      ways, we got it back and it works better than it did when we bought the car.

                                      On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 12:21 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@...> wrote:

                                      > **
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Many moons later - here's the status on the story. As it turned out the
                                      > main fuse in the controller blew. After some tips from Reed Bement on
                                      > testing the DB25 and DB9 values using a breakout box, and replacing the
                                      > db25 and db9 connectors. I got the controller back in. The controller
                                      > powers up and moves the vehicle slowly (0.5 mph), but not enough to get
                                      > anywhere. I also did Bill Swann's fix of the T-connectors, so those are
                                      > good (I do think that was the earlier intermittant problem I was having).
                                      >
                                      > Any ideas on next steps?
                                      >
                                      > Thanks.I am getting tired of putting $4 gas in the non-EV.
                                      >
                                      > Johnnydwa
                                      >
                                      > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "johnnydwa" <johnnydwa@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > Yes, I took a look. I checked mine and it seems fairly secure. I am
                                      > beginning to think I blew something in the controller - climbing uphill +
                                      > Power setting resulting in no crawl-home. I noticed that I am getting some
                                      > ticking noises from the motor (sounds the same as a turn signal) when
                                      > selector is set in reverse. So some charge is getting through.
                                      > >
                                      > > I will first try greasing up the 9 and 12 pin connections and see if
                                      > that helps.
                                      > >
                                      > > I may disassemble the controller to see if I can see any damage I am not
                                      > a big fan of large capacitors, but I know to discharge them.
                                      > >
                                      > > Any other thoughts?
                                      > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@>
                                      > wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > I shut me down once. It was embarrassing, because I was showing some
                                      > > > doubters an EV. Did you find the fix in the files section?
                                      > > >
                                      > > > On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 6:27 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > **
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Bill, would this telephone connector be enough to shut down the
                                      > vehicle?
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Thanks
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Johnnydwa
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@>
                                      > > > > wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I had an intermittent connection under the dash - a telephone
                                      > connector
                                      > > > > > gone bad. Repair is detailed in the files section, under Bill Swann
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 5:24 PM, johnnydwa <johnnydwa@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > **
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Okay - my sob-story
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > I have a 1996 Force with Deka Pbs - 33,000 miles - I normally
                                      > don't run
                                      > > > > > > beyond 20-25AH before charging up.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Last night, I am running my usual route home from the gym that
                                      > > > > includes a
                                      > > > > > > fairly short but steep hill. About a minute after starting out,
                                      > I come
                                      > > > > to
                                      > > > > > > the hill - I flip the tri-setting switch up from normal to power
                                      > to
                                      > > > > try to
                                      > > > > > > catch the green light at the top and all of a sudden -
                                      > nothinnngg...
                                      > > > > Okay -
                                      > > > > > > I do still have 12V systems, radio, lights etc. But no crawl
                                      > home.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Today I go through the Service Manual listening for clicks from
                                      > the
                                      > > > > > > ignition and for the tri-set power switch - as instructed. Those
                                      > seem
                                      > > > > to be
                                      > > > > > > working okay.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > I check voltage and 164v at the grey Anderson under
                                      > heater+headlights
                                      > > > > load
                                      > > > > > > so I don't think it is a battery.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Plot twist - last weekend I was installing a new stereo in the
                                      > car and
                                      > > > > > > after I was done I hopped in the car and nothinnngg. I came back
                                      > later,
                                      > > > > > > checked to make sure I hadn't bumped a connector loose, and then
                                      > > > > tested the
                                      > > > > > > car the car worked fine..I thought to myself, strange etc.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Okay - any ideas. I am hoping a fuse or a relay might have given
                                      > up
                                      > > > > under
                                      > > > > > > the load. I am hoping it isn't the controller but welcome any
                                      > thoughts,
                                      > > > > > > things to check etc.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > If it is the controller what are people using as a replacement?
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Thanks in advance.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > My best
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > --
                                      > > > > > Thanks, Bill S
                                      > > > > > Ph 832-338-3080
                                      > > > > > www.watt-tracker.com
                                      > > > > > www.promotingevs.com
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --
                                      > > > Thanks, Bill S
                                      > > > Ph 832-338-3080
                                      > > > www.watt-tracker.com
                                      > > > www.promotingevs.com
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >



                                      --

                                      Jeremy Smithson

                                      Puget Sound Solar LLC

                                      immobile (206) 706-1931

                                      mobile (206) 669-7337

                                      jeremy@...

                                      www.pugetsoundsolar.com


                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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