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re: SPAM-LOW: [solectria_ev] Re: Main Relay Location? UMOC 440

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  • N/A
    JOSH MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT CONTECTED TO THE GRID POWER (UNPLUGED) MAKE SURE U HAVE 12VDC KEYED AT THE RED BLK WIRES ON THE 2 PIN CONNECTOR ...CAR IN
    Message 1 of 8 , Jun 4, 2012
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      JOSH MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT CONTECTED TO THE GRID POWER (UNPLUGED) MAKE SURE U HAVE 12VDC KEYED AT THE RED BLK WIRES ON THE 2 PIN CONNECTOR ...CAR IN NEUTRAL AND HAND ON THE UMOC CASE TURN KEY ON AND U SHOULD HEAR AND FEEL A CLUNK WITH OUT THE POWER RELAY ON (THE CLUNK) THE CAR DOES NOT CHARGE(CAPS) OR MOVE. IF IT NEEDS REPAIR I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP OR IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE A WORKING ONE CONTACT ME OFF LIST.

      ----------------------------------------
      From: "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@...>
      Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 10:22 AM
      To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: SPAM-LOW: [solectria_ev] Re: Main Relay Location? UMOC 440



      Aaron,
      Just wondering - what is the purpose of the external contactor? After my teardown of my UMOC, I can say with certainty that it has an internal contactor. Are you just trying for better safety?

      Thanks,
      Josh

      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Proman <aaronproman@...> wrote:
      >
      > Josh,
      >
      > you pose a good question about the charge-up time which I never got round to answering myself. My installation (in a Land Rover) has an external contactor between the pack and the controller, so it needs to charge up every time I "key-on." This would make a very bad get-away car.
      >
      > But direct connecting the pack to the UMOC would probably eliminate this delay - I never tried it but when 'restarting' the car within a minute of 'key-off', there is minimal or no delay. I'm also not sure of what the 'resting' current would be with the UMOC off.
      >
      > -Aaron
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
      > Aaron,
      > I really appreciate your taking the time to post this. I'll make sure I
      > give it another shot with this in mind. So every time the car starts up,
      > you have to wait 45 seconds? That's interesting.
      >
      > Right now, my controller shows this. I'll let the capacitors charge and
      > see what happens. I think I may just be too impatient. :P
      >
      > > Relay: OFF
      > > Power Stage: Power Up
      > > NEUTRAL
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Josh
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • otedawg
      Double checked - I ve definitely got 12V on the main relay. I m convinced that the controller is bad - most likely the UMOC IGBT Board.
      Message 2 of 8 , Jun 4, 2012
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        Double checked - I've definitely got 12V on the main relay. I'm convinced that the controller is bad - most likely the UMOC IGBT Board.

        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "N/A" <ev@...> wrote:
        >
        > JOSH MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT CONTECTED TO THE GRID POWER (UNPLUGED) MAKE SURE U HAVE 12VDC KEYED AT THE RED BLK WIRES ON THE 2 PIN CONNECTOR ...CAR IN NEUTRAL AND HAND ON THE UMOC CASE TURN KEY ON AND U SHOULD HEAR AND FEEL A CLUNK WITH OUT THE POWER RELAY ON (THE CLUNK) THE CAR DOES NOT CHARGE(CAPS) OR MOVE. IF IT NEEDS REPAIR I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP OR IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE A WORKING ONE CONTACT ME OFF LIST.
        >
        > ----------------------------------------
        > From: "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@...>
        > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 10:22 AM
        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: SPAM-LOW: [solectria_ev] Re: Main Relay Location? UMOC 440
        >
        >
        >
        > Aaron,
        > Just wondering - what is the purpose of the external contactor? After my teardown of my UMOC, I can say with certainty that it has an internal contactor. Are you just trying for better safety?
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Josh
        >
        > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Proman <aaronproman@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Josh,
        > >
        > > you pose a good question about the charge-up time which I never got round to answering myself. My installation (in a Land Rover) has an external contactor between the pack and the controller, so it needs to charge up every time I "key-on." This would make a very bad get-away car.
        > >
        > > But direct connecting the pack to the UMOC would probably eliminate this delay - I never tried it but when 'restarting' the car within a minute of 'key-off', there is minimal or no delay. I'm also not sure of what the 'resting' current would be with the UMOC off.
        > >
        > > -Aaron
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
        > > Aaron,
        > > I really appreciate your taking the time to post this. I'll make sure I
        > > give it another shot with this in mind. So every time the car starts up,
        > > you have to wait 45 seconds? That's interesting.
        > >
        > > Right now, my controller shows this. I'll let the capacitors charge and
        > > see what happens. I think I may just be too impatient. :P
        > >
        > > > Relay: OFF
        > > > Power Stage: Power Up
        > > > NEUTRAL
        > >
        > > Thanks,
        > > Josh
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • Joe O'Brien
        Just checking, how many amps is the controller pulling on the 12v side? Joe ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        Message 3 of 8 , Jun 4, 2012
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          Just checking, how many amps is the controller pulling on the 12v side?
          Joe



          On Jun 4, 2012, at 4:50 PM, "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@...> wrote:

          > Double checked - I've definitely got 12V on the main relay. I'm convinced that the controller is bad - most likely the UMOC IGBT Board.
          >
          > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "N/A" <ev@...> wrote:
          > >
          > > JOSH MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT CONTECTED TO THE GRID POWER (UNPLUGED) MAKE SURE U HAVE 12VDC KEYED AT THE RED BLK WIRES ON THE 2 PIN CONNECTOR ...CAR IN NEUTRAL AND HAND ON THE UMOC CASE TURN KEY ON AND U SHOULD HEAR AND FEEL A CLUNK WITH OUT THE POWER RELAY ON (THE CLUNK) THE CAR DOES NOT CHARGE(CAPS) OR MOVE. IF IT NEEDS REPAIR I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP OR IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE A WORKING ONE CONTACT ME OFF LIST.
          > >
          > > ----------------------------------------
          > > From: "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@...>
          > > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 10:22 AM
          > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > > Subject: SPAM-LOW: [solectria_ev] Re: Main Relay Location? UMOC 440
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Aaron,
          > > Just wondering - what is the purpose of the external contactor? After my teardown of my UMOC, I can say with certainty that it has an internal contactor. Are you just trying for better safety?
          > >
          > > Thanks,
          > > Josh
          > >
          > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Proman <aaronproman@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Josh,
          > > >
          > > > you pose a good question about the charge-up time which I never got round to answering myself. My installation (in a Land Rover) has an external contactor between the pack and the controller, so it needs to charge up every time I "key-on." This would make a very bad get-away car.
          > > >
          > > > But direct connecting the pack to the UMOC would probably eliminate this delay - I never tried it but when 'restarting' the car within a minute of 'key-off', there is minimal or no delay. I'm also not sure of what the 'resting' current would be with the UMOC off.
          > > >
          > > > -Aaron
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
          > > > Aaron,
          > > > I really appreciate your taking the time to post this. I'll make sure I
          > > > give it another shot with this in mind. So every time the car starts up,
          > > > you have to wait 45 seconds? That's interesting.
          > > >
          > > > Right now, my controller shows this. I'll let the capacitors charge and
          > > > see what happens. I think I may just be too impatient. :P
          > > >
          > > > > Relay: OFF
          > > > > Power Stage: Power Up
          > > > > NEUTRAL
          > > >
          > > > Thanks,
          > > > Josh
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          >
          >


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • otedawg
          I ll check the input current once the controller is put back together. I ve spent a couple hours going over the bottom board with a multimeter, and I m certain
          Message 4 of 8 , Jun 4, 2012
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            I'll check the input current once the controller is put back together. I've spent a couple hours going over the bottom board with a multimeter, and I'm certain that every resistor is reading correctly, as well as every capacitor (I've got a fairly nice meter.) The big Cap on the board looks like it may be blown, although the capacitance is correct, and a PWM IC next to the power (IRFBE30) MOSFET has thermal damage. I'm going to replace those, as well as the varistor surge protector on the input - I doubt it's bad, but I may as well replace anything that's suspect.

            On the Top board, I noticed that two jumper pins were sorted (I don't think they were supposed to be) and one of the clips on the cable header labeled _to bottom board_ was broken.

            I'm going to install the new parts (probably on thursday) and put this thing back together and cross my fingers. I don't have much hope, but I might as well exhaust all my options before dropping some hefty change on a new controller. (The quotes I've gotten are in the same price range as the car!) :)

            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Joe O'Brien <joe.obrien@...> wrote:
            >
            > Just checking, how many amps is the controller pulling on the 12v side?
            > Joe
            >
            >
            >
            > On Jun 4, 2012, at 4:50 PM, "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@...> wrote:
            >
            > > Double checked - I've definitely got 12V on the main relay. I'm convinced that the controller is bad - most likely the UMOC IGBT Board.
            > >
            > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "N/A" <ev@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > JOSH MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT CONTECTED TO THE GRID POWER (UNPLUGED) MAKE SURE U HAVE 12VDC KEYED AT THE RED BLK WIRES ON THE 2 PIN CONNECTOR ...CAR IN NEUTRAL AND HAND ON THE UMOC CASE TURN KEY ON AND U SHOULD HEAR AND FEEL A CLUNK WITH OUT THE POWER RELAY ON (THE CLUNK) THE CAR DOES NOT CHARGE(CAPS) OR MOVE. IF IT NEEDS REPAIR I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP OR IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE A WORKING ONE CONTACT ME OFF LIST.
            > > >
            > > > ----------------------------------------
            > > > From: "otedawg" <joshua.orfield@>
            > > > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 10:22 AM
            > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            > > > Subject: SPAM-LOW: [solectria_ev] Re: Main Relay Location? UMOC 440
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Aaron,
            > > > Just wondering - what is the purpose of the external contactor? After my teardown of my UMOC, I can say with certainty that it has an internal contactor. Are you just trying for better safety?
            > > >
            > > > Thanks,
            > > > Josh
            > > >
            > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Proman <aaronproman@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > Josh,
            > > > >
            > > > > you pose a good question about the charge-up time which I never got round to answering myself. My installation (in a Land Rover) has an external contactor between the pack and the controller, so it needs to charge up every time I "key-on." This would make a very bad get-away car.
            > > > >
            > > > > But direct connecting the pack to the UMOC would probably eliminate this delay - I never tried it but when 'restarting' the car within a minute of 'key-off', there is minimal or no delay. I'm also not sure of what the 'resting' current would be with the UMOC off.
            > > > >
            > > > > -Aaron
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
            > > > > Aaron,
            > > > > I really appreciate your taking the time to post this. I'll make sure I
            > > > > give it another shot with this in mind. So every time the car starts up,
            > > > > you have to wait 45 seconds? That's interesting.
            > > > >
            > > > > Right now, my controller shows this. I'll let the capacitors charge and
            > > > > see what happens. I think I may just be too impatient. :P
            > > > >
            > > > > > Relay: OFF
            > > > > > Power Stage: Power Up
            > > > > > NEUTRAL
            > > > >
            > > > > Thanks,
            > > > > Josh
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • Ray Darby
            I’ve seen Deoxit Gold mentioned on the list and I’m wondering what type (squeeze tube, spray, etc) folks have used and what sort of local suppliers (Radio
            Message 5 of 8 , Oct 25, 2012
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              I’ve seen Deoxit Gold mentioned on the list and I’m wondering what type (squeeze tube, spray, etc) folks have used and what sort of local suppliers (Radio Shack, etc) might carry it?

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Charles Bliss
              Fry s carries it. Comes in spray, and I think liquid. ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              Message 6 of 8 , Oct 25, 2012
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                Fry's carries it. Comes in spray, and I think liquid.

                On 10/25/2012 10:49 AM, Ray Darby wrote:
                >
                > I’ve seen Deoxit Gold mentioned on the list and I’m wondering what
                > type (squeeze tube, spray, etc) folks have used and what sort of local
                > suppliers (Radio Shack, etc) might carry it?
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                >



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Ray Darby
                Thanks Charles, do you have a recommendation for spray vs liquid? This is for application on the DB connectors. - Ray From: Charles Bliss Sent: Thursday,
                Message 7 of 8 , Oct 25, 2012
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                  Thanks Charles, do you have a recommendation for spray vs liquid? This is for application on the DB connectors.

                  - Ray

                  From: Charles Bliss
                  Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 11:49 AM
                  To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Deoxit gold


                  Fry's carries it. Comes in spray, and I think liquid.

                  On 10/25/2012 10:49 AM, Ray Darby wrote:
                  >
                  > I’ve seen Deoxit Gold mentioned on the list and I’m wondering what
                  > type (squeeze tube, spray, etc) folks have used and what sort of local
                  > suppliers (Radio Shack, etc) might carry it?
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  >

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Charles Bliss
                  I use the spray, because that is what I bought. I have used it on a lot of different connection, BMS, DSub on Solectria, eLithion.... I have thought about
                  Message 8 of 8 , Oct 25, 2012
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                    I use the spray, because that is what I bought. I have used it on a lot
                    of different connection, BMS, DSub on Solectria, eLithion....
                    I have thought about getting one of the other forms, like liquid or
                    paste, but so far, if I want to apply with a Q-Tip, I just spray it on
                    the Q-Tip.

                    On 10/25/2012 1:20 PM, Ray Darby wrote:
                    >
                    > Thanks Charles, do you have a recommendation for spray vs liquid? This
                    > is for application on the DB connectors.
                    >
                    > - Ray
                    >
                    > From: Charles Bliss
                    > Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 11:49 AM
                    > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
                    > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Deoxit gold
                    >
                    > Fry's carries it. Comes in spray, and I think liquid.
                    >
                    > On 10/25/2012 10:49 AM, Ray Darby wrote:
                    > >
                    > > I’ve seen Deoxit Gold mentioned on the list and I’m wondering what
                    > > type (squeeze tube, spray, etc) folks have used and what sort of local
                    > > suppliers (Radio Shack, etc) might carry it?
                    > >
                    > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    > >
                    > >
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                    >



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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