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Re: [solectria_ev] Battery Issues - Winter Temps - Range and Testing

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  • gjc0@aol.com
    DK Stengel: Batteries (I assume gel lead-acid) should be fully charged for best storage. Gels do not loose their charge as easily as flooded lead - acid. Also,
    Message 1 of 10 , Dec 12, 2011
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      DK Stengel:

      Batteries (I assume gel lead-acid) should be fully charged for best storage.

      Gels do not loose their charge as easily as flooded lead - acid.
      Also, when a lead - acid battery discharges, its electrolyte turns to water which is subject to freezing.
      A frozen lead - acid battery is generally worth the value of the lead it contains and no more.

      A fully charged lead - acid battery's electrolyte is sulfuric acid which has a much lower freezing point.
      (Below 0 degrees F)

      If you have another type of battery, check the specifications online or with a knowledgeable battery person.

      It may also be advisable to disconnect the battery so they are not discharged by a phantom load like a clock or DC-DC converter.

      Sincerely,
      Gary Carlson


      -----Original Message-----
      From: Stengel, D K <dianne.stengel@...>
      To: solectria_ev <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Mon, Dec 12, 2011 11:04 am
      Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] Battery Issues - Winter Temps - Range and Testing




      If we want to just store our '99 Force over the northern winter in
      unheated garage (0 deg F coldest), do we need to remove the batteries or
      take any other precautions so batteries won't be damaged? Should store
      fully charged? Any other concerns?

      ________________________________

      From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com]
      On Behalf Of Gordon Stallings
      Sent: Monday, December 12, 2011 1:00 PM
      To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Battery Issues - Winter Temps - Range and
      Testing

      Tire pressures can drop in cold weather. Make sure your tires are
      inflated properly.
      --Gordon Stallings--

      On Dec 12, 2011, at 10:00 AM, m wrote:

      >
      >
      > I'm starting to have a range issue.
      > The weather is getting colder.
      > The past few winters even in the single digits was fine.
      >
      > I'm wondering if it's a single battery that is the problem.
      > Does anyone know a way to test a gel battery without an expensive
      > Midtronics type tester? I don't own one.
      > How can I tell if the heating pads are working ?
      > How warm do they get ?
      > I have a non contact thermometer.
      >
      > The batteries have over 15k on them from new.
      >
      > One trip was only 20 miles and I went into limp mode.
      > Today it was 32 deg. and my commute to work took 13ah - about 14
      > miles.
      > I usually use under 10ah to get to work with plenty of pep left over.
      > Today I barely crawled the last 1/4 mile up a slight grade to my
      > charging spot at work.
      >
      > I have the 19 cell - Deka gel set up.
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Ken Olum
      I see no reason to keep your batteries warm. Charge them first, then disconnect everything from the batteries: the service disconnect under the hood, the
      Message 2 of 10 , Dec 12, 2011
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        I see no reason to keep your batteries warm. Charge them first, then
        disconnect everything from the batteries: the "service disconnect"
        under the hood, the controller, and the charger. Then there will be
        no drain on your batteries. Now and then you might want to plug
        back in your charger for a bit so that your batteries are charged back
        up from any self-discharge. Once a month is certainly sufficient.
        Probably even 3 months is OK for gels.

        Ken
      • m
        How do you power just the heating pads ? Is it just 12 volts to each one ? I picked up a used Accuracy Plus battery tester. I ll test each battery and see if
        Message 3 of 10 , Dec 18, 2011
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          How do you power just the heating pads ?

          Is it just 12 volts to each one ?


          I picked up a used Accuracy Plus battery tester.
          I'll test each battery and see if I have a bad one.
        • m
          How warm do they actually get ?
          Message 4 of 10 , Dec 18, 2011
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            How warm do they actually get ?



            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "m" <packratdaddy@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > How do you power just the heating pads ?
            >
            > Is it just 12 volts to each one ?
            >
            >
            > I picked up a used Accuracy Plus battery tester.
            > I'll test each battery and see if I have a bad one.
            >
          • Ken Olum
            The Force batter heating pads (at least in my car) are intended to run on 240VAC. If I recall correctly the power is something like 150W in each compartment.
            Message 5 of 10 , Dec 19, 2011
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              The Force batter heating pads (at least in my car) are intended to run
              on 240VAC. If I recall correctly the power is something like 150W in
              each compartment. To use them the without the charger, plug the car
              in to 240V but unplug the charger from the inside of the car. I would
              not expect them to get noticeably hot when they have batteries on
              them, but you can measure the current draw to see that they are
              working. Of coarse they will only draw power when it is cold in the
              compartment.

              Or, just measure the temperature in the compartments when it is cold
              outside and you have not been driving or charging for at least 24
              hours. It's easy to put a temperature probe through the hole on the
              passenger side edge of the back battery cover at the rear. It's
              harder, but possible, to put one into the front battery compartment
              through the hole on the rear edge at the driver side where the wires
              go in. If your probe is metal, cover it with tape or something first,
              so you don't cause a short circuit.

              Ken
            • ldr214
              They actually get pretty warm if in a reasonably warm place. Mine trip on at about 65F and go off again at 80+F. I recall the factory numbers at 65/85 but
              Message 6 of 10 , Dec 20, 2011
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                They actually get pretty warm if in a reasonably warm place. Mine trip on at about 65F and go off again at 80+F. I recall the factory numbers at 65/85 but didn't look it up.

                As it isn't all that cold here in our part of CA I keep them off as they tend to drift apart in temp between the front and rear. Fuse removed. Each has it's own temp controller and as the season progresses I would find one compartment in the 80's while the other was in the 60's. As the brusa sets the charge for the hottest compartment this resulted in a potential balance issue.


                Mike R
                97Force

                --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "m" <packratdaddy@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > How warm do they actually get ?
                >
                >
                >
                > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "m" <packratdaddy@> wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > How do you power just the heating pads ?
                > >
                > > Is it just 12 volts to each one ?
                > >
                > >
                > > I picked up a used Accuracy Plus battery tester.
                > > I'll test each battery and see if I have a bad one.
                > >
                >
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