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Re: [solectria_ev] Re: Encoder/motor/general maintenance questions- Newish member

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  • Jay Grossman
    Several years ago I experienced a significant loss in accelleration which was diagnosed to the pot box. In resetting the pot box mechanical connection to the
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 15, 2010
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      Several years ago I experienced a significant loss in accelleration which was diagnosed to the pot box. In resetting the pot box mechanical connection to the accellerator cable I noted that I could increase accelleration and if I did there was a noticable decrease in regen at low speeds or I could reduce accelleration for higher regen. Ultimately I found a sweet spot which provided reasonable accelleration and regen.
      Jay H Grossman

      --- On Wed, 9/15/10, ldr214 <replytome@...> wrote:


      From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
      Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Encoder/motor/general maintenance questions- Newish member
      To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Wednesday, September 15, 2010, 11:58 AM


       



      Dan,
      Regen is stronger the slower you go. It is pretty much a reverse of the power curve on the Force. How much regen the cars have vary slightly by vehicle. Problably minor differences in programs over the production run and the use of a few different controllers. If you want to feel how much "energy" regen stops the car with at low speed try pushing it by hand with regen on from a full stop.

      A slight "surge" or sort of like a "lean burn" feeling in a gas car is also something that happens at some speeds under low power. Not sure if that is what you are talking about with regards to "slight surge or shudder." In my car this seems to be controller/voltage related and more noticeable as the voltage sags. I can also get rid of it by going from "normal" to econ on my power selector or by increasing the power. In my mind that pretty much rules out the encoder. My car has done this since I acquired it in 04 and over 20,000 miles with no perceptable change.

      Mike R
      97 Force pba

      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Dan" <sbdeadelf@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi,
      > I'm basically new here. I picked up Stephen Taylor's Red Stripe NiCad car a few months ago. The car is in great shape- probably even better than he described- and I'm very happy to have one of these cars.
      > Here's what I'm wondering: At about 30K miles, I'm noticing the slight surging or shuddering that seems to indicate encoder gap issues. Am I right that it would be a really good idea to take the motor in and get new bearings and whatever else is in there for the sake of keeping the gap steady and not messing up my encoder wheel?
      > Regenerative braking is awesome at 25mph and below, but noticeably weaker above 30- is that a symptom of encoder issues or is that normal?
      > And for the other NiCad folks out there- has anyone tried putting a temperature sensor and gauge in the cooling system for the batteries? I've been a bit tempted to put a sensor at the radiator and another amongst either set of batteries. Anyone tried it? Good idea? Bad idea?
      > Thanks in advance,
      > Dan
      >











      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • dexion111
      Regen is activated from say about 500ohm to 0ohm (dont know the exact numbers but it wouldnt be too hard to figure out if the car is on jacks of perhaps
      Message 2 of 4 , Sep 15, 2010
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        Regen is activated from say about 500ohm to 0ohm (dont know the exact numbers but it wouldnt be too hard to figure out if the car is on jacks of perhaps someone knows.) 800ohms = go. At the moment I have regen nearly adjusted out of the pedal since I actually lose range using regen. I drive way to efficiently from the non-regen dc motor days. Coasting is more efficient here in michgian (no hills) and I have all the lights timed. Adjustment is fairly easy if anyone wants to adjust theirs. Clockwise = more go less regen on the pot screw. Just losed up the hex head nibbie and go 1/10th of a turn at a time. Not, too much clockwise will make the car start up when you put it in forward or reverse without any pedal. And the reverse is true too much counter-clockwise will allow only the regen region to work. So adjust it on jack stands.

        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Jay Grossman <jgrossm3@...> wrote:
        >
        > Several years ago I experienced a significant loss in accelleration which was diagnosed to the pot box. In resetting the pot box mechanical connection to the accellerator cable I noted that I could increase accelleration and if I did there was a noticable decrease in regen at low speeds or I could reduce accelleration for higher regen. Ultimately I found a sweet spot which provided reasonable accelleration and regen.
        > Jay H Grossman
        >
        > --- On Wed, 9/15/10, ldr214 <replytome@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
        > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Encoder/motor/general maintenance questions- Newish member
        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Wednesday, September 15, 2010, 11:58 AM
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        > Dan,
        > Regen is stronger the slower you go. It is pretty much a reverse of the power curve on the Force. How much regen the cars have vary slightly by vehicle. Problably minor differences in programs over the production run and the use of a few different controllers. If you want to feel how much "energy" regen stops the car with at low speed try pushing it by hand with regen on from a full stop.
        >
        > A slight "surge" or sort of like a "lean burn" feeling in a gas car is also something that happens at some speeds under low power. Not sure if that is what you are talking about with regards to "slight surge or shudder." In my car this seems to be controller/voltage related and more noticeable as the voltage sags. I can also get rid of it by going from "normal" to econ on my power selector or by increasing the power. In my mind that pretty much rules out the encoder. My car has done this since I acquired it in 04 and over 20,000 miles with no perceptable change.
        >
        > Mike R
        > 97 Force pba
        >
        > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Dan" <sbdeadelf@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi,
        > > I'm basically new here. I picked up Stephen Taylor's Red Stripe NiCad car a few months ago. The car is in great shape- probably even better than he described- and I'm very happy to have one of these cars.
        > > Here's what I'm wondering: At about 30K miles, I'm noticing the slight surging or shuddering that seems to indicate encoder gap issues. Am I right that it would be a really good idea to take the motor in and get new bearings and whatever else is in there for the sake of keeping the gap steady and not messing up my encoder wheel?
        > > Regenerative braking is awesome at 25mph and below, but noticeably weaker above 30- is that a symptom of encoder issues or is that normal?
        > > And for the other NiCad folks out there- has anyone tried putting a temperature sensor and gauge in the cooling system for the batteries? I've been a bit tempted to put a sensor at the radiator and another amongst either set of batteries. Anyone tried it? Good idea? Bad idea?
        > > Thanks in advance,
        > > Dan
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
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