- Mark, Not sure if your controller has the same econ normal power settings but I was wondering if you checked to see if the problem exists in all of them? AMessage 1 of 12 , Jun 30, 2010View SourceMark,
Not sure if your controller has the same econ normal power settings but I was wondering if you checked to see if the problem exists in all of them? A variable here would point to the controller.
Your working with voltages that are higher than most of us and a longer string if I recall. This could result in some new variables.
Also check the connections to and from the dc/dc if it cuts out on a 97 all is lost. (true for most EVs and others as well) Any accessory like a radio would confirm this. Loss of dc to the ignition box only would be harder to detect. Solectria liked those "T taps" and they can work lose sometimes and it doesn't take much to be intermittent once they start.
Check your towing coverage & keep the cell phone handy if you have one and have the tow company number in there ahead of time. Sometimes there is nothing like being prepared for the worst to make the problem go away.
--- In email@example.com, "packratdaddy" <packratdaddy@...> wrote:
> Hey Ray,
> Thanks for the encouragement.
> I've been driving this car for 2 years now and it's been great.
> The support of this forum has been enormously valuable.
> I have to laugh because some of the connector wires have been twisted so much they look braided. But somehow they have worked.
> I need to do some connector replacement like Wolf did on his S-10 .
> After doing some searches on "overheating" topics on the forum .
> Michael Conn mentions similar symptoms as mine in messages #4349,3873 and 4029. He ends up sending his controller off to Kruspan. He list the parts that were replaced. I was thinking of replacing the cooling fans on the motor and controller. We replaced some fans on equipment at work. They were vastly faster.
> I also found message on testing for a bad battery.
> Message # 364 - mentions turning on the heat,headlights and fans and looking for a voltage drop difference of 2 volts on a single battery that would be the bad one. Has anyone tried that?
> lots to do .
> keep the ideas coming.
- I had this too for a while. In response to hitting a bump, usually. Until it cut out entirely. I could not start. I replaced the computer ribbon connectorsMessage 2 of 12 , Jul 1, 2010View SourceI had this too for a while. In response to hitting a bump, usually.
Until it cut out entirely. I could not start.
I replaced the computer ribbon connectors to the controler in my 1991, assuming it was a typical contact issue. No luck.
I put things aside. batteries dried out. car now dead.
- Hello All, Checked out almost all the connections and cleaned them . Checked the ignition switch. OK Battery connections. OK I still need to test theMessage 3 of 12 , Jul 14, 2010View SourceHello All,
Checked out almost all the connections and cleaned them .
Checked the ignition switch. OK
Battery connections. OK
I still need to test the batteries to see where they stand.
We've had high temperatures here in the 90's and up.
I usually drive the car in "Normal" mode .
I drove it in "Economy" mode instead ,as recommended, for a few days with opportunity charging. A single continuous round trip of 18 miles also no problems.
I've switched back to "Normal" mode for my commute for about a week now without any problems either.
So either I corrected the issue or it'll come back.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for all the help