Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Cutting out while driving

Expand Messages
  • packratdaddy
    In a previous reply to this issue: A contactor inside the ignition switch was found to be the problem. How do you test that ? Take the ignition apart ? I did
    Message 1 of 12 , Jun 18, 2010
    View Source
    • 0 Attachment
      In a previous reply to this issue:

      A contactor inside the ignition switch was found to be the problem.
      How do you test that ? Take the ignition apart ?

      I did break a key off in the ignition.
      I swapped out with the ignition lock setup from another car.
      Maybe something is not reassembled correctly.
    • mike young
      maybe load test all batteries to weed out a possible stinker. mike young ... From: packratdaddy To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010
      Message 2 of 12 , Jun 19, 2010
      View Source
      • 0 Attachment
        maybe load test all batteries to weed out a possible stinker.
        mike young
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: packratdaddy
        To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 12:20 AM
        Subject: [solectria_ev] Cutting out while driving





        I mentioned this issue about 2 weeks ago.

        My car is Cutting out while driving.

        It only happens on the way back from my commute.
        It's happened about 6 times.

        I cleaned the main connectors into the controller.
        I used a Fast Dry contact cleaner.

        I opened up the front battery box and discovered some very light blue oxide on the positive connector of a battery.
        Cleaned that off. Tightened all the battery bolts a hair.

        On my commute back today it cut out again. I rolled into a driveway . I then turned the ignition key and few times. After about a minute it was fine I then drove without incident.

        Could it be more ? Further up the cables ? Pot ? Ignition box?

        Any suggestions welcome.

        MArk





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • ldr214
        when the ignition switch on my 97 opens the connection I see the air bag go through a new initialization check or the fail light come on. You would likely see
        Message 3 of 12 , Jun 19, 2010
        View Source
        • 0 Attachment
          when the ignition switch on my 97 opens the connection I see the air bag go through a new initialization check or the fail light come on. You would likely see some similiar indication on the instrument cluster as it is also losing power if that is the cause of your interruption.

          Mike R
          97
          ps
          Haven't had a problem since last time I rebuilt it. BTW there are a number of different manufacturers for the igniton parts and they vary by year. Some are hard to get.

          --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "packratdaddy" <packratdaddy@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > In a previous reply to this issue:
          >
          > A contactor inside the ignition switch was found to be the problem.
          > How do you test that ? Take the ignition apart ?
          >
          > I did break a key off in the ignition.
          > I swapped out with the ignition lock setup from another car.
          > Maybe something is not reassembled correctly.
          >
        • packratdaddy
          My car does nt have airbags. But I will try to notice what is indicated on the dash. I ve got a few more things to check out now. Thanks all.......
          Message 4 of 12 , Jun 20, 2010
          View Source
          • 0 Attachment
            My car does'nt have airbags. But I will try to notice what is indicated on the dash.
            I've got a few more things to check out now.

            Thanks all.......
          • packratdaddy
            Would a overheated controller make the car cut out ? Usually the car is charging in the sun for 8-9 hours before my return trip. So by the end of the day.
            Message 5 of 12 , Jun 22, 2010
            View Source
            • 0 Attachment
              Would a overheated controller make the car cut out ?

              Usually the car is charging in the sun for 8-9 hours before my return trip.
              So by the end of the day. Everything is hot.
              I then drive up a few hills. 14 miles or so.


              Are the fans on the controller suppose to run all the time or only at certain
              temperatures ?

              I've never seen or heard them running.

              Anyway to test for that ?

              I was going to wire in a indicator bulb so I could tell when the fans come on.
              If that's the way they work.
            • packratdaddy
              I ve been able to check out the rotary switch in the ignition. It seems fine. I ll upload a pic of the inside of the ignition rotary switch. Have nt been able
              Message 6 of 12 , Jun 30, 2010
              View Source
              • 0 Attachment
                I've been able to check out the rotary switch in the ignition.
                It seems fine.
                I'll upload a pic of the inside of the ignition rotary switch.

                Have'nt been able to test the batteries accept with a voltmeter.

                The cooling fans are working on the controller and the motor.

                I can touch the motor for a few seconds before it is too hot to touch.

                Is that normal ?

                The controller is warm too, not as warm as the motor.

                My amp/hr usage is normal on my return trip.

                When it cuts out,usually when I stop and try to continue.
                It has cut out while coasting. Basically when the accelerator pedal is engaged.

                Could high temp be caused by a bad bearing ?
                Controller issues ?
                Bad fans ?
                Bad Speed pot ?

                Should I open up the controller and inspect for damage/problems ?

                This only happens on my up hill commute. Not very long or steep.

                12 mile return trip

                Thanks all.

                MArk
              • Ray Darby
                You have my heartfelt condolence (for whatever that s worth)! I had - and maybe still do have - a similar problem, which left my 97 Force a driveway
                Message 7 of 12 , Jun 30, 2010
                View Source
                • 0 Attachment
                  You have my heartfelt condolence (for whatever that's worth)! I had - and maybe still do have - a similar problem, which left my 97 Force a "driveway ornament" for several years before I fixed (or thought I'd fixed) the problem.

                  1st, I live in serious hill country too but my motor has never been as hot as yours. Could be the fan isn't working enough, or coming on at a low enough temperature. I just bypassed the little high-temp switch and run the fan all the time (not that much power so I figured what the heck).

                  But what solved my intermittent "cut out" problem* was to first blow out/off the DB25 with compressed air, then used a contact cleaner from Radio Shack, then blew that out/off with compressed air. Also replaced the DB9. It went from intermittent cut out every 5-6 miles to where I've put (literally) 100's of miles on it with no cut outs until the other day. And it wouldn't just start right up again in a few minutes like it used to, so I looked under the hood and saw the motor fan connection had come undone. I turned on the ignition (ie, fan now on), got a cup of coffee to go, came out and - zoom - off she went for the 10 mile trip home (with about 1500' of elevation gain on the way) with no cutouts. Fingers are crossed that the loose (then undone) fan connector was all it was!

                  In the meantime (over the several years it sat) I had several folks recommend I check the bearings on the motor (apparently speed sensor wheel can move out of alignment from this), and I even got a quote from Andreas Kruspan (in Switzerland) to send me a whole different type of speed sensor to replace the existing one. But I'd already replaced both the speed sensor board (the last one Azure/Solectria had on the shelf - with clipped cable - unknown reliability) and the wheel to no avail.

                  It seemed like everyone I was getting advice from at the time felt it was in the speed sensor circuit somewhere. That said, I think the other end of the speed sensor cable connects somewhere under the dash on the drivers side, so that connection could be flakey too.

                  Hope this helps Mark!

                  * My "intermittent operation" problem was particularly frustrating. Sometimes it would just up and quit going up a hill, sometimes going down a hill, and once it even quit - but then jiggled back to operation - on a bumpy road! It would usually go again after turning off the key, waiting a few minutes (once or twice a half hour to an hour) and then turning it back on. And when it did take off again it would usually get me all the way home (another 5-6 miles or so) without cutting out. The problem with such intermittent problems is that you can't find a problem if it's gone again in a matter of minutes! And I don't think it's just you and I that have had this problem either, so if I'm missing any "possible fixes", I sure hope others in the group can fill in the blanks!

                  ----- Original Message -----
                  From: packratdaddy
                  To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 12:00 PM
                  Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Cutting out while driving





                  I've been able to check out the rotary switch in the ignition.
                  It seems fine.
                  I'll upload a pic of the inside of the ignition rotary switch.

                  Have'nt been able to test the batteries accept with a voltmeter.

                  The cooling fans are working on the controller and the motor.

                  I can touch the motor for a few seconds before it is too hot to touch.

                  Is that normal ?

                  The controller is warm too, not as warm as the motor.

                  My amp/hr usage is normal on my return trip.

                  When it cuts out,usually when I stop and try to continue.
                  It has cut out while coasting. Basically when the accelerator pedal is engaged.

                  Could high temp be caused by a bad bearing ?
                  Controller issues ?
                  Bad fans ?
                  Bad Speed pot ?

                  Should I open up the controller and inspect for damage/problems ?

                  This only happens on my up hill commute. Not very long or steep.

                  12 mile return trip

                  Thanks all.

                  MArk





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • packratdaddy
                  Hey Ray, Thanks for the encouragement. I ve been driving this car for 2 years now and it s been great. The support of this forum has been enormously valuable.
                  Message 8 of 12 , Jun 30, 2010
                  View Source
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Hey Ray,

                    Thanks for the encouragement.
                    I've been driving this car for 2 years now and it's been great.
                    The support of this forum has been enormously valuable.

                    I have to laugh because some of the connector wires have been twisted so much they look braided. But somehow they have worked.

                    I need to do some connector replacement like Wolf did on his S-10 .

                    After doing some searches on "overheating" topics on the forum .

                    Michael Conn mentions similar symptoms as mine in messages #4349,3873 and 4029. He ends up sending his controller off to Kruspan. He list the parts that were replaced. I was thinking of replacing the cooling fans on the motor and controller. We replaced some fans on equipment at work. They were vastly faster.

                    I also found message on testing for a bad battery.

                    Message # 364 - mentions turning on the heat,headlights and fans and looking for a voltage drop difference of 2 volts on a single battery that would be the bad one. Has anyone tried that?

                    lots to do .
                    keep the ideas coming.

                    Mark
                  • ldr214
                    Mark, Not sure if your controller has the same econ normal power settings but I was wondering if you checked to see if the problem exists in all of them? A
                    Message 9 of 12 , Jun 30, 2010
                    View Source
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Mark,
                      Not sure if your controller has the same econ normal power settings but I was wondering if you checked to see if the problem exists in all of them? A variable here would point to the controller.

                      Your working with voltages that are higher than most of us and a longer string if I recall. This could result in some new variables.

                      Also check the connections to and from the dc/dc if it cuts out on a 97 all is lost. (true for most EVs and others as well) Any accessory like a radio would confirm this. Loss of dc to the ignition box only would be harder to detect. Solectria liked those "T taps" and they can work lose sometimes and it doesn't take much to be intermittent once they start.

                      Check your towing coverage & keep the cell phone handy if you have one and have the tow company number in there ahead of time. Sometimes there is nothing like being prepared for the worst to make the problem go away.

                      Mike R

                      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "packratdaddy" <packratdaddy@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Hey Ray,
                      >
                      > Thanks for the encouragement.
                      > I've been driving this car for 2 years now and it's been great.
                      > The support of this forum has been enormously valuable.
                      >
                      > I have to laugh because some of the connector wires have been twisted so much they look braided. But somehow they have worked.
                      >
                      > I need to do some connector replacement like Wolf did on his S-10 .
                      >
                      > After doing some searches on "overheating" topics on the forum .
                      >
                      > Michael Conn mentions similar symptoms as mine in messages #4349,3873 and 4029. He ends up sending his controller off to Kruspan. He list the parts that were replaced. I was thinking of replacing the cooling fans on the motor and controller. We replaced some fans on equipment at work. They were vastly faster.
                      >
                      > I also found message on testing for a bad battery.
                      >
                      > Message # 364 - mentions turning on the heat,headlights and fans and looking for a voltage drop difference of 2 volts on a single battery that would be the bad one. Has anyone tried that?
                      >
                      > lots to do .
                      > keep the ideas coming.
                      >
                      > Mark
                      >
                    • Mr. What
                      I had this too for a while. In response to hitting a bump, usually. Until it cut out entirely. I could not start. I replaced the computer ribbon connectors
                      Message 10 of 12 , Jul 1, 2010
                      View Source
                      • 0 Attachment
                        I had this too for a while. In response to hitting a bump, usually.
                        Until it cut out entirely. I could not start.

                        I replaced the computer ribbon connectors to the controler in my 1991, assuming it was a typical contact issue. No luck.

                        I put things aside. batteries dried out. car now dead.
                      • packratdaddy
                        Hello All, Checked out almost all the connections and cleaned them . Checked the ignition switch. OK Battery connections. OK I still need to test the
                        Message 11 of 12 , Jul 14, 2010
                        View Source
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Hello All,

                          Checked out almost all the connections and cleaned them .
                          Checked the ignition switch. OK
                          Battery connections. OK
                          I still need to test the batteries to see where they stand.

                          We've had high temperatures here in the 90's and up.


                          I usually drive the car in "Normal" mode .
                          I drove it in "Economy" mode instead ,as recommended, for a few days with opportunity charging. A single continuous round trip of 18 miles also no problems.

                          I've switched back to "Normal" mode for my commute for about a week now without any problems either.

                          So either I corrected the issue or it'll come back.
                          Keeping my fingers crossed.

                          I'll keep you posted.

                          Thanks for all the help

                          Mark
                        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.