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Another Fixed Charger

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  • Joshua Goldstein
    Hi Solectricians, The final report on my broken charger is that I got it fixed! It had the usual bad caps, which had even burned a small hole in the cap
    Message 1 of 4 , May 29, 2010
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      Hi Solectricians,
      The final report on my broken charger is that I got it fixed! It had
      the usual bad caps, which had even burned a small hole in the cap board, as
      well as some problems on the logic board and a balky fan. I found someone
      here in New England who was able to fix those problems (write me off list if
      you want their contact info). So it's now charging perfectly.
      However ... It's clear that the NLG4 runs too doggone hot, and I want
      to endorse Mike R.'s suggestion (list archives 9/3/2009) to reprogram it and
      turn down the input current. I reprogrammed my newly fixed charger down
      from 16A to 12A as the limit on the mains. (This is really easy if you have
      a DB9-capable computer and the free NGL_E.exe program -- see list archives
      or ask.)
      Even with the current limited to 12A I am recording internal temps
      during charging (80-degree day, trunk open) up to 84 C, which is 183 F.
      Given the problems of this charger design and how irreplaceable the NLG4
      seems to be in our cars, I don't really want to run it any hotter than that.
      However, if you needed a faster charge than I do (hasn't been an issue
      really; not that much slower), you might choose a higher current than 12A.
      Also, if anyone knows a reason it would _not_ be good for the charger to run
      a little slower and cooler, do speak up.
      Meanwhile congrats to Wolf for getting one of his working! Maybe it's a
      trend :-)
      Joshua Goldstein
      -99 Force


      Dear Forcies,
      It took a while but I got someone to replace the bad caps in my NLG4
      charger as well as several other problems on the logic board, and now the
      charger is working (!) -- except for a balky fan that I still have to get
      fixed. So I'm up and running, except...
      I want to reprogram the charger with the NLG_E program, to reduce the
      maximum input amps so as to avoid overheating. This is Mike R.'s excellent
      suggestion (archives 9/3/2009). However, the program is giving me trouble.
      It starts up and says "Transmission successful" and has the profile loaded.
      But when I try to run any of the functions in the top left box -- reading or
      writing to the charger -- it says "value missing or wrong" and then
      "Transmission abborted."
      As a note about the overheating, I'm getting internal temps up to about
      85C during stage 1 with the fan running and not a hot day, drawing 15-16A
      from the line. Don't know what it's supposed to be but I consider that too
      hot and once the input amps drop later in the stage the temp does too.
      (I've been unplugging and letting it cool down a while when it gets above
      75C. Reprogramming would be a lot more convenient!)
      Anyone have an idea or have you run into this message??
      Joshua Goldstein
      '99 Force


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Wolf" <wolf@...>
      To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 9:06 PM
      Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Another Broken Charger


      >I could possibly have a good cap board... In the "broken" charger row:
      > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300/IMG_6705.JPG
      >
      > However, since the cap board seems to be the most likely problem with the
      > BC3300, they probably all have bad cap boards too. :/
      >
      > I have not taken any apart yet to see what is wrong with them (have not
      > had the free time yet).
      >
      > This chronicles the repair of a BC3300, but it was not one from the row:
      > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300
      > It was one sent in for repair...
      >
      > Wolf
      > *wags his tail*
      > www.wolftronix.com
      >
    • ldr214
      A few new owners here so if anyone still has all that factory pink foam around the NLG4 I highly recommend removing it to help keep the nlg as cool as
      Message 2 of 4 , May 30, 2010
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        A few new owners here so if anyone still has all that factory pink foam around the NLG4 I highly recommend removing it to help keep the nlg as cool as possible. I always charge in cool conditons if possible and with the trunk open or back seat down as recommended by the long time owners. When it gets into the 95-100+ range outside my sapre zivan NG3 gets do any longer bulk charge giving the nlg a rest.

        There is also some variation in the temperature at which the different logic boards will turn on & off the heat sink fan. The original logic board in my charger was pretty sparing on when the fan would run (hot). The replacement (& newer) one will turn the fan back on when in the float phase if the sun shines on the case (cooler).

        There is 12V available right by the charger for use by the rear battery compartment cooling fan. This could be used for additional charger cooling if desired.

        FWIW I also modified the rear battery fan compartment fan so I can control it manually. It is frequently hot here and I want to take advantage of the cool nights and bring the compartment temparture down but the facotry setting turns the fan on/off at about 85F. With the factory arrangement the fan comes on at 85 and draws in hotter than 85 air and then shuts off when it finally comes back down to 85 which is in the fall. By overriding their settings I can keep the batteries much cooler by running the fan when the temp is low at night. And it stays off during the heat of the day that way.

        Wondering how owners with the lithium packs are doing on compartment heating/cooling? Any issues?

        The Brusa is such a nice charger so it is good to hear that another one is fixed. Congrats

        Mike R
        97 Force




        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Joshua Goldstein" <jg@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hi Solectricians,
        > The final report on my broken charger is that I got it fixed! It had
        > the usual bad caps, which had even burned a small hole in the cap board, as
        > well as some problems on the logic board and a balky fan. I found someone
        > here in New England who was able to fix those problems (write me off list if
        > you want their contact info). So it's now charging perfectly.
        > However ... It's clear that the NLG4 runs too doggone hot, and I want
        > to endorse Mike R.'s suggestion (list archives 9/3/2009) to reprogram it and
        > turn down the input current. I reprogrammed my newly fixed charger down
        > from 16A to 12A as the limit on the mains. (This is really easy if you have
        > a DB9-capable computer and the free NGL_E.exe program -- see list archives
        > or ask.)
        > Even with the current limited to 12A I am recording internal temps
        > during charging (80-degree day, trunk open) up to 84 C, which is 183 F.
        > Given the problems of this charger design and how irreplaceable the NLG4
        > seems to be in our cars, I don't really want to run it any hotter than that.
        > However, if you needed a faster charge than I do (hasn't been an issue
        > really; not that much slower), you might choose a higher current than 12A.
        > Also, if anyone knows a reason it would _not_ be good for the charger to run
        > a little slower and cooler, do speak up.
        > Meanwhile congrats to Wolf for getting one of his working! Maybe it's a
        > trend :-)
        > Joshua Goldstein
        > -99 Force
        >
        >
        > Dear Forcies,
        > It took a while but I got someone to replace the bad caps in my NLG4
        > charger as well as several other problems on the logic board, and now the
        > charger is working (!) -- except for a balky fan that I still have to get
        > fixed. So I'm up and running, except...
        > I want to reprogram the charger with the NLG_E program, to reduce the
        > maximum input amps so as to avoid overheating. This is Mike R.'s excellent
        > suggestion (archives 9/3/2009). However, the program is giving me trouble.
        > It starts up and says "Transmission successful" and has the profile loaded.
        > But when I try to run any of the functions in the top left box -- reading or
        > writing to the charger -- it says "value missing or wrong" and then
        > "Transmission abborted."
        > As a note about the overheating, I'm getting internal temps up to about
        > 85C during stage 1 with the fan running and not a hot day, drawing 15-16A
        > from the line. Don't know what it's supposed to be but I consider that too
        > hot and once the input amps drop later in the stage the temp does too.
        > (I've been unplugging and letting it cool down a while when it gets above
        > 75C. Reprogramming would be a lot more convenient!)
        > Anyone have an idea or have you run into this message??
        > Joshua Goldstein
        > '99 Force
        >
        >
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: "Wolf" <wolf@...>
        > To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
        > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 9:06 PM
        > Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Another Broken Charger
        >
        >
        > >I could possibly have a good cap board... In the "broken" charger row:
        > > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300/IMG_6705.JPG
        > >
        > > However, since the cap board seems to be the most likely problem with the
        > > BC3300, they probably all have bad cap boards too. :/
        > >
        > > I have not taken any apart yet to see what is wrong with them (have not
        > > had the free time yet).
        > >
        > > This chronicles the repair of a BC3300, but it was not one from the row:
        > > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300
        > > It was one sent in for repair...
        > >
        > > Wolf
        > > *wags his tail*
        > > www.wolftronix.com
        > >
        >
      • Wolf
        How did your friend get the caps off? What was used to remove the epoxy? What type of epoxy did he use to glue the caps back to the board? Different thermal
        Message 3 of 4 , May 31, 2010
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          How did your friend get the caps off? What was used to remove the epoxy?

          What type of epoxy did he use to glue the caps back to the board?

          Different thermal expansion rates between the solder leads and epoxy is what causes the joints to fail.


          Also, I think I mentioned this before, but rather then reprogramming the charger, you can install a 5K pot between pins 5 and 6, then you can vary it from 0 to 100% mains current. So on cold days you can crank it all the way back up, and on hot days you can turn it back down. :)

          Wolf
          *wags his tail*
          www.wolftronix.com


          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Joshua Goldstein
          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 2:51 PM
          Subject: [solectria_ev] Another Fixed Charger



          Hi Solectricians,
          The final report on my broken charger is that I got it fixed! It had
          the usual bad caps, which had even burned a small hole in the cap board, as
          well as some problems on the logic board and a balky fan. I found someone
          here in New England who was able to fix those problems (write me off list if
          you want their contact info). So it's now charging perfectly.
          However ... It's clear that the NLG4 runs too doggone hot, and I want
          to endorse Mike R.'s suggestion (list archives 9/3/2009) to reprogram it and
          turn down the input current. I reprogrammed my newly fixed charger down
          from 16A to 12A as the limit on the mains. (This is really easy if you have
          a DB9-capable computer and the free NGL_E.exe program -- see list archives
          or ask.)
          Even with the current limited to 12A I am recording internal temps
          during charging (80-degree day, trunk open) up to 84 C, which is 183 F.
          Given the problems of this charger design and how irreplaceable the NLG4
          seems to be in our cars, I don't really want to run it any hotter than that.
          However, if you needed a faster charge than I do (hasn't been an issue
          really; not that much slower), you might choose a higher current than 12A.
          Also, if anyone knows a reason it would _not_ be good for the charger to run
          a little slower and cooler, do speak up.
          Meanwhile congrats to Wolf for getting one of his working! Maybe it's a
          trend :-)
          Joshua Goldstein
          -99 Force

          Dear Forcies,
          It took a while but I got someone to replace the bad caps in my NLG4
          charger as well as several other problems on the logic board, and now the
          charger is working (!) -- except for a balky fan that I still have to get
          fixed. So I'm up and running, except...
          I want to reprogram the charger with the NLG_E program, to reduce the
          maximum input amps so as to avoid overheating. This is Mike R.'s excellent
          suggestion (archives 9/3/2009). However, the program is giving me trouble.
          It starts up and says "Transmission successful" and has the profile loaded.
          But when I try to run any of the functions in the top left box -- reading or
          writing to the charger -- it says "value missing or wrong" and then
          "Transmission abborted."
          As a note about the overheating, I'm getting internal temps up to about
          85C during stage 1 with the fan running and not a hot day, drawing 15-16A
          from the line. Don't know what it's supposed to be but I consider that too
          hot and once the input amps drop later in the stage the temp does too.
          (I've been unplugging and letting it cool down a while when it gets above
          75C. Reprogramming would be a lot more convenient!)
          Anyone have an idea or have you run into this message??
          Joshua Goldstein
          '99 Force

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Wolf" <wolf@...>
          To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 9:06 PM
          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Another Broken Charger

          >I could possibly have a good cap board... In the "broken" charger row:
          > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300/IMG_6705.JPG
          >
          > However, since the cap board seems to be the most likely problem with the
          > BC3300, they probably all have bad cap boards too. :/
          >
          > I have not taken any apart yet to see what is wrong with them (have not
          > had the free time yet).
          >
          > This chronicles the repair of a BC3300, but it was not one from the row:
          > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300
          > It was one sent in for repair...
          >
          > Wolf
          > *wags his tail*
          > www.wolftronix.com
          >





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Wolf
          Page 10 in the Brusa NLG4B manual has more details. Wolf *wags his tail* www.wolftronix.com ... From: Wolf To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May
          Message 4 of 4 , May 31, 2010
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            Page 10 in the Brusa NLG4B manual has more details.

            Wolf
            *wags his tail*
            www.wolftronix.com


            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Wolf
            To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 1:02 PM
            Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Another Fixed Charger



            How did your friend get the caps off? What was used to remove the epoxy?

            What type of epoxy did he use to glue the caps back to the board?

            Different thermal expansion rates between the solder leads and epoxy is what causes the joints to fail.

            Also, I think I mentioned this before, but rather then reprogramming the charger, you can install a 5K pot between pins 5 and 6, then you can vary it from 0 to 100% mains current. So on cold days you can crank it all the way back up, and on hot days you can turn it back down. :)

            Wolf
            *wags his tail*
            www.wolftronix.com

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: Joshua Goldstein
            To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 2:51 PM
            Subject: [solectria_ev] Another Fixed Charger

            Hi Solectricians,
            The final report on my broken charger is that I got it fixed! It had
            the usual bad caps, which had even burned a small hole in the cap board, as
            well as some problems on the logic board and a balky fan. I found someone
            here in New England who was able to fix those problems (write me off list if
            you want their contact info). So it's now charging perfectly.
            However ... It's clear that the NLG4 runs too doggone hot, and I want
            to endorse Mike R.'s suggestion (list archives 9/3/2009) to reprogram it and
            turn down the input current. I reprogrammed my newly fixed charger down
            from 16A to 12A as the limit on the mains. (This is really easy if you have
            a DB9-capable computer and the free NGL_E.exe program -- see list archives
            or ask.)
            Even with the current limited to 12A I am recording internal temps
            during charging (80-degree day, trunk open) up to 84 C, which is 183 F.
            Given the problems of this charger design and how irreplaceable the NLG4
            seems to be in our cars, I don't really want to run it any hotter than that.
            However, if you needed a faster charge than I do (hasn't been an issue
            really; not that much slower), you might choose a higher current than 12A.
            Also, if anyone knows a reason it would _not_ be good for the charger to run
            a little slower and cooler, do speak up.
            Meanwhile congrats to Wolf for getting one of his working! Maybe it's a
            trend :-)
            Joshua Goldstein
            -99 Force

            Dear Forcies,
            It took a while but I got someone to replace the bad caps in my NLG4
            charger as well as several other problems on the logic board, and now the
            charger is working (!) -- except for a balky fan that I still have to get
            fixed. So I'm up and running, except...
            I want to reprogram the charger with the NLG_E program, to reduce the
            maximum input amps so as to avoid overheating. This is Mike R.'s excellent
            suggestion (archives 9/3/2009). However, the program is giving me trouble.
            It starts up and says "Transmission successful" and has the profile loaded.
            But when I try to run any of the functions in the top left box -- reading or
            writing to the charger -- it says "value missing or wrong" and then
            "Transmission abborted."
            As a note about the overheating, I'm getting internal temps up to about
            85C during stage 1 with the fan running and not a hot day, drawing 15-16A
            from the line. Don't know what it's supposed to be but I consider that too
            hot and once the input amps drop later in the stage the temp does too.
            (I've been unplugging and letting it cool down a while when it gets above
            75C. Reprogramming would be a lot more convenient!)
            Anyone have an idea or have you run into this message??
            Joshua Goldstein
            '99 Force

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "Wolf" <wolf@...>
            To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 9:06 PM
            Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Another Broken Charger

            >I could possibly have a good cap board... In the "broken" charger row:
            > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300/IMG_6705.JPG
            >
            > However, since the cap board seems to be the most likely problem with the
            > BC3300, they probably all have bad cap boards too. :/
            >
            > I have not taken any apart yet to see what is wrong with them (have not
            > had the free time yet).
            >
            > This chronicles the repair of a BC3300, but it was not one from the row:
            > http://www.wolftronix.com/BC3300
            > It was one sent in for repair...
            >
            > Wolf
            > *wags his tail*
            > www.wolftronix.com
            >

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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