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Re: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor

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  • Wolf
    It sounds like yours has the IDC connector soldered to the board, to get to the other side to ohm out the cable would would need to remove the two screws and
    Message 1 of 13 , Apr 30 9:46 PM
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      It sounds like yours has the IDC connector soldered to the board, to get to the other side to ohm out the cable would would need to remove the two screws and pull the whole sensor board out...

      But, since you have LEDs lighting then you have power to the board...

      And since you have one group working, but not the other... then one leg of the encoder sensor has gone bad...

      Even of the outputs of the cable where all shorted or open, all the LEDs should be turning on and off in sequence.

      I would first replace the TLC274 chip:
      http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-1314-5-ND

      Then see if it works... If not, then I would replace the transistor:
      http://www.newark.com/nxp/bc846b-t-r/transistor/dp/11N8498?Ntt=11n8498

      If it still does not work, then I would replace the optical sensor:
      http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/hlc1395-001/optoswitch/dp/05M0281?Ntt=05m0281

      Or, just replace all three to be safe... since replacing parts one at a time, might cause the newly replaced part to go bad. ;)

      Note: The replacement optical sensor is a modern equivalent. It is not the original, as the original sensor is obsolete. I know that it looks significantly brighter (it is inferred, but you can tell the difference in brightness between the new one and the original one by looking at it with a CCD camera). So if you replace one of the sensors you should replace the other one too.

      That way they will both be working at the same distance. :)

      Wolf
      *wags his tail*
      www.wolftronix.com


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: SteveDill
      To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:30 PM
      Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor



      Moving the speed sensor around, I got the two right LEDs to light. The left LEDs do not light at all.

      I am unable to get the plastic end of the speed sensor end of the cable open so I can measure the connectivity of the cable. The controller end of the cable looks pretty bad. I will try to clean it up better.

      Any other suggestions?

      Thanks,
      Stephen
      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@...> wrote:
      >
      > OK so by ohm it out, you mean I should get very low resistance between the 9-pin end and the 10-pin end.
      >
      > Stephen
      >
      > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
      > >
      > > If they don't light up at all, I would check the cable...
      > >
      > > Unplug the the DE9 connector, and ohm it out between it and the 10 pin connector on the encoder board.
      > >
      > > The pin out should be as follows:
      > >
      > > 10-pin side 9-pin side Function
      > > 1 X Not connected
      > > 2 1 Unknown
      > > 3 6 +6VDC
      > > 4 2 GND
      > > 5 7 B-
      > > 6 3 A-
      > > 7 8 B+
      > > 8 4 A+
      > > 9 9 Temp
      > > 10 5 GND
      > >
      > > Wolf
      > > *wags his tail*
      > > www.wolftronix.com
      > >
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: SteveDill
      > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:41 PM
      > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Thanks for the picture wolf. They dont light up.
      > >
      > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Forgot to add a pic for you:
      > > > http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P4030228.jpg
      > > >
      > > > The LEDs are the two clear parts below the middle screw.
      > > > The other two are located next to the 12.1.91 date on the encoder PCB.
      > > >
      > > > Wolf
      > > > *wags his tail*
      > > > www.wolftronix.com
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > > From: SteveDill
      > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:24 PM
      > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > My truck is on jack stands for testing. Here are my results:
      > > >
      > > > Both controllers turn the wheels when connected to the port motor.
      > > > Neither controller turns the wheel when connected to the starboard motor.
      > > > Manually turning the rear wheels does not light up anything on the starboard motor. Granted I dont know where the LEDs mentioned below are supposed to be.
      > > >
      > > > The manual says to connect the speed sensor from the good motor to the controller connected to the bad motor and that should trick the controller into making the motor go. It does not.
      > > >
      > > > The bad motor no longer makes the screetchy noise. It makes no noise.
      > > >
      > > > Where might I get a new motor, or get this one fixed?
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > > Stephen
      > > >
      > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > By "cover off the motor" I assume you mean the end cap that covers the speed sensor.
      > > > > By "one of the drive wheels" I assume you mean the back wheels, and I am assuming that I only need to lift one and not both because the differential will be compensating for the lack of traction and allow the lifted wheel to spin freely? or something. I also assume that the I will be unable to turn the rotor of the motor by hand, so I cannot just disconnect the belt that ties the motors together.
      > > > > By the "encoder circuit board" I assume you mean the little circuit board that fits over the black and white, radially striped disk on the end of the rotor.
      > > > >
      > > > > I will give it a try.
      > > > > Stephen
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > With the cover off the motor, and with one of the drive wheels jacked up so it can free spin...
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Turn on the truck, with the selector in neutral.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Next spin the wheel with your hand slowly.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > There are four LEDs on the encoder circuit board, they should turn on and off in sequence.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > If they don't or only some of them turn on, try moving the encoder board around by hand, or pressing on it.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > If you get any improvement, then you just need to adjust the board until all the LEDs are working properly.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > If you get no LEDs at all, then check the encoder cable.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Wolf
      > > > > > *wags his tail*
      > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > > > > From: SteveDill
      > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:57 PM
      > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Broken Speed Sensor
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Hi Folks,
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I posted a long time ago about my E-10 that wont go. After months of dianostics, I am now pretty sure it is a bad speed sensor on one of the motors.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Clues:
      > > > > > Screachy noise and no go. No screatchy with other motor.
      > > > > > Speedometer says I am going 0-80 and back in about 4 seconds while not moving.
      > > > > > Took protective covers off the motor and there is nothing obviously wrong.
      > > > > > The bearing do not seem to be loose. The rotor is solid and has no play.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > How do I fix the speed sensor?
      > > > > > Or does someone have a good motor I can use (borrow, rent buy) to see if it is just the speed sensor and not the entire motor?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I live in Santa Clara CA.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Thanks
      > > > > > Stephen
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      >





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • SteveDill
      The cable is OK. There were low ohm connections between the end points of the cable. There were some 75K, 242K, and 5M ohm readings that I am assuming are
      Message 2 of 13 , May 2, 2010
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        The cable is OK. There were low ohm connections between the end points of the cable. There were some 75K, 242K, and 5M ohm readings that I am assuming are supposed to be there.

        I de-soldered the two black wires that go into the motor chassis from the speed sensor board. What are those? I have removed the cable and sensor board assembly from the truck.

        I need to solder something? I am not so handy with a soldering iron, and all the components on this board are soldered on, so I will have to de-solder them first. I am not confident that I will not ruin the whole thing.

        You are certain that the speed sensor is the only thing broken? I am experienced with situations involving two bad components. I suppose I could remove the known good one from the good motor, but...

        I cannot buy a new speed sensor?

        Stephen

        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@...> wrote:
        >
        > It sounds like yours has the IDC connector soldered to the board, to get to the other side to ohm out the cable would would need to remove the two screws and pull the whole sensor board out...
        >
        > But, since you have LEDs lighting then you have power to the board...
        >
        > And since you have one group working, but not the other... then one leg of the encoder sensor has gone bad...
        >
        > Even of the outputs of the cable where all shorted or open, all the LEDs should be turning on and off in sequence.
        >
        > I would first replace the TLC274 chip:
        > http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-1314-5-ND
        >
        > Then see if it works... If not, then I would replace the transistor:
        > http://www.newark.com/nxp/bc846b-t-r/transistor/dp/11N8498?Ntt=11n8498
        >
        > If it still does not work, then I would replace the optical sensor:
        > http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/hlc1395-001/optoswitch/dp/05M0281?Ntt=05m0281
        >
        > Or, just replace all three to be safe... since replacing parts one at a time, might cause the newly replaced part to go bad. ;)
        >
        > Note: The replacement optical sensor is a modern equivalent. It is not the original, as the original sensor is obsolete. I know that it looks significantly brighter (it is inferred, but you can tell the difference in brightness between the new one and the original one by looking at it with a CCD camera). So if you replace one of the sensors you should replace the other one too.
        >
        > That way they will both be working at the same distance. :)
        >
        > Wolf
        > *wags his tail*
        > www.wolftronix.com
        >
        >
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: SteveDill
        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:30 PM
        > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
        >
        >
        >
        > Moving the speed sensor around, I got the two right LEDs to light. The left LEDs do not light at all.
        >
        > I am unable to get the plastic end of the speed sensor end of the cable open so I can measure the connectivity of the cable. The controller end of the cable looks pretty bad. I will try to clean it up better.
        >
        > Any other suggestions?
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Stephen
        > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
        > >
        > > OK so by ohm it out, you mean I should get very low resistance between the 9-pin end and the 10-pin end.
        > >
        > > Stephen
        > >
        > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > If they don't light up at all, I would check the cable...
        > > >
        > > > Unplug the the DE9 connector, and ohm it out between it and the 10 pin connector on the encoder board.
        > > >
        > > > The pin out should be as follows:
        > > >
        > > > 10-pin side 9-pin side Function
        > > > 1 X Not connected
        > > > 2 1 Unknown
        > > > 3 6 +6VDC
        > > > 4 2 GND
        > > > 5 7 B-
        > > > 6 3 A-
        > > > 7 8 B+
        > > > 8 4 A+
        > > > 9 9 Temp
        > > > 10 5 GND
        > > >
        > > > Wolf
        > > > *wags his tail*
        > > > www.wolftronix.com
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > > From: SteveDill
        > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:41 PM
        > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Thanks for the picture wolf. They dont light up.
        > > >
        > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > Forgot to add a pic for you:
        > > > > http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P4030228.jpg
        > > > >
        > > > > The LEDs are the two clear parts below the middle screw.
        > > > > The other two are located next to the 12.1.91 date on the encoder PCB.
        > > > >
        > > > > Wolf
        > > > > *wags his tail*
        > > > > www.wolftronix.com
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > > > From: SteveDill
        > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:24 PM
        > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > My truck is on jack stands for testing. Here are my results:
        > > > >
        > > > > Both controllers turn the wheels when connected to the port motor.
        > > > > Neither controller turns the wheel when connected to the starboard motor.
        > > > > Manually turning the rear wheels does not light up anything on the starboard motor. Granted I dont know where the LEDs mentioned below are supposed to be.
        > > > >
        > > > > The manual says to connect the speed sensor from the good motor to the controller connected to the bad motor and that should trick the controller into making the motor go. It does not.
        > > > >
        > > > > The bad motor no longer makes the screetchy noise. It makes no noise.
        > > > >
        > > > > Where might I get a new motor, or get this one fixed?
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks
        > > > > Stephen
        > > > >
        > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > > By "cover off the motor" I assume you mean the end cap that covers the speed sensor.
        > > > > > By "one of the drive wheels" I assume you mean the back wheels, and I am assuming that I only need to lift one and not both because the differential will be compensating for the lack of traction and allow the lifted wheel to spin freely? or something. I also assume that the I will be unable to turn the rotor of the motor by hand, so I cannot just disconnect the belt that ties the motors together.
        > > > > > By the "encoder circuit board" I assume you mean the little circuit board that fits over the black and white, radially striped disk on the end of the rotor.
        > > > > >
        > > > > > I will give it a try.
        > > > > > Stephen
        > > > > >
        > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > With the cover off the motor, and with one of the drive wheels jacked up so it can free spin...
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Turn on the truck, with the selector in neutral.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Next spin the wheel with your hand slowly.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > There are four LEDs on the encoder circuit board, they should turn on and off in sequence.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > If they don't or only some of them turn on, try moving the encoder board around by hand, or pressing on it.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > If you get any improvement, then you just need to adjust the board until all the LEDs are working properly.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > If you get no LEDs at all, then check the encoder cable.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Wolf
        > > > > > > *wags his tail*
        > > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > > > > > From: SteveDill
        > > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:57 PM
        > > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Broken Speed Sensor
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Hi Folks,
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > I posted a long time ago about my E-10 that wont go. After months of dianostics, I am now pretty sure it is a bad speed sensor on one of the motors.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Clues:
        > > > > > > Screachy noise and no go. No screatchy with other motor.
        > > > > > > Speedometer says I am going 0-80 and back in about 4 seconds while not moving.
        > > > > > > Took protective covers off the motor and there is nothing obviously wrong.
        > > > > > > The bearing do not seem to be loose. The rotor is solid and has no play.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > How do I fix the speed sensor?
        > > > > > > Or does someone have a good motor I can use (borrow, rent buy) to see if it is just the speed sensor and not the entire motor?
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > I live in Santa Clara CA.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Thanks
        > > > > > > Stephen
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > > >
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • SteveDill
        No offers to help or references to a place to buy a replacement? OK then I guess I have to do it. Surface mounted, um. I can do this. Is there a circuit
        Message 3 of 13 , May 5, 2010
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          No offers to help or references to a place to buy a replacement?
          OK then I guess I have to do it. Surface mounted, um. I can do this.

          Is there a circuit diagram for this anywhere? "Obsolete" parts make me think "Circuit redesign"

          Shopping list:
          1 * NXP - BC846B T/R - Transistor
          1 * TLC274/A/B/Y, TLC279
          2 * HONEYWELL S&C - HLC1395-001 - Optoswitch

          These parts dont say "in millions" so they wont break the bank.

          One of the photo sensors has a big scratch on it. So I suspect that is my problem. The new ones are more sensitive and will let the sensor ride further from the disk?

          Stephen

          --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@...> wrote:
          >
          > The cable is OK. There were low ohm connections between the end points of the cable. There were some 75K, 242K, and 5M ohm readings that I am assuming are supposed to be there.
          >
          > I de-soldered the two black wires that go into the motor chassis from the speed sensor board. What are those? I have removed the cable and sensor board assembly from the truck.
          >
          > I need to solder something? I am not so handy with a soldering iron, and all the components on this board are soldered on, so I will have to de-solder them first. I am not confident that I will not ruin the whole thing.
          >
          > You are certain that the speed sensor is the only thing broken? I am experienced with situations involving two bad components. I suppose I could remove the known good one from the good motor, but...
          >
          > I cannot buy a new speed sensor?
          >
          > Stephen
          >
          > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
          > >
          > > It sounds like yours has the IDC connector soldered to the board, to get to the other side to ohm out the cable would would need to remove the two screws and pull the whole sensor board out...
          > >
          > > But, since you have LEDs lighting then you have power to the board...
          > >
          > > And since you have one group working, but not the other... then one leg of the encoder sensor has gone bad...
          > >
          > > Even of the outputs of the cable where all shorted or open, all the LEDs should be turning on and off in sequence.
          > >
          > > I would first replace the TLC274 chip:
          > > http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-1314-5-ND
          > >
          > > Then see if it works... If not, then I would replace the transistor:
          > > http://www.newark.com/nxp/bc846b-t-r/transistor/dp/11N8498?Ntt=11n8498
          > >
          > > If it still does not work, then I would replace the optical sensor:
          > > http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/hlc1395-001/optoswitch/dp/05M0281?Ntt=05m0281
          > >
          > > Or, just replace all three to be safe... since replacing parts one at a time, might cause the newly replaced part to go bad. ;)
          > >
          > > Note: The replacement optical sensor is a modern equivalent. It is not the original, as the original sensor is obsolete. I know that it looks significantly brighter (it is inferred, but you can tell the difference in brightness between the new one and the original one by looking at it with a CCD camera). So if you replace one of the sensors you should replace the other one too.
          > >
          > > That way they will both be working at the same distance. :)
          > >
          > > Wolf
          > > *wags his tail*
          > > www.wolftronix.com
          > >
          > >
          > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > From: SteveDill
          > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:30 PM
          > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Moving the speed sensor around, I got the two right LEDs to light. The left LEDs do not light at all.
          > >
          > > I am unable to get the plastic end of the speed sensor end of the cable open so I can measure the connectivity of the cable. The controller end of the cable looks pretty bad. I will try to clean it up better.
          > >
          > > Any other suggestions?
          > >
          > > Thanks,
          > > Stephen
          > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > OK so by ohm it out, you mean I should get very low resistance between the 9-pin end and the 10-pin end.
          > > >
          > > > Stephen
          > > >
          > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > If they don't light up at all, I would check the cable...
          > > > >
          > > > > Unplug the the DE9 connector, and ohm it out between it and the 10 pin connector on the encoder board.
          > > > >
          > > > > The pin out should be as follows:
          > > > >
          > > > > 10-pin side 9-pin side Function
          > > > > 1 X Not connected
          > > > > 2 1 Unknown
          > > > > 3 6 +6VDC
          > > > > 4 2 GND
          > > > > 5 7 B-
          > > > > 6 3 A-
          > > > > 7 8 B+
          > > > > 8 4 A+
          > > > > 9 9 Temp
          > > > > 10 5 GND
          > > > >
          > > > > Wolf
          > > > > *wags his tail*
          > > > > www.wolftronix.com
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > > > From: SteveDill
          > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:41 PM
          > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Thanks for the picture wolf. They dont light up.
          > > > >
          > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Forgot to add a pic for you:
          > > > > > http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P4030228.jpg
          > > > > >
          > > > > > The LEDs are the two clear parts below the middle screw.
          > > > > > The other two are located next to the 12.1.91 date on the encoder PCB.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Wolf
          > > > > > *wags his tail*
          > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > > > > From: SteveDill
          > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:24 PM
          > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > > My truck is on jack stands for testing. Here are my results:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Both controllers turn the wheels when connected to the port motor.
          > > > > > Neither controller turns the wheel when connected to the starboard motor.
          > > > > > Manually turning the rear wheels does not light up anything on the starboard motor. Granted I dont know where the LEDs mentioned below are supposed to be.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > The manual says to connect the speed sensor from the good motor to the controller connected to the bad motor and that should trick the controller into making the motor go. It does not.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > The bad motor no longer makes the screetchy noise. It makes no noise.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Where might I get a new motor, or get this one fixed?
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Thanks
          > > > > > Stephen
          > > > > >
          > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > By "cover off the motor" I assume you mean the end cap that covers the speed sensor.
          > > > > > > By "one of the drive wheels" I assume you mean the back wheels, and I am assuming that I only need to lift one and not both because the differential will be compensating for the lack of traction and allow the lifted wheel to spin freely? or something. I also assume that the I will be unable to turn the rotor of the motor by hand, so I cannot just disconnect the belt that ties the motors together.
          > > > > > > By the "encoder circuit board" I assume you mean the little circuit board that fits over the black and white, radially striped disk on the end of the rotor.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > I will give it a try.
          > > > > > > Stephen
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > With the cover off the motor, and with one of the drive wheels jacked up so it can free spin...
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Turn on the truck, with the selector in neutral.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Next spin the wheel with your hand slowly.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > There are four LEDs on the encoder circuit board, they should turn on and off in sequence.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > If they don't or only some of them turn on, try moving the encoder board around by hand, or pressing on it.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > If you get any improvement, then you just need to adjust the board until all the LEDs are working properly.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > If you get no LEDs at all, then check the encoder cable.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Wolf
          > > > > > > > *wags his tail*
          > > > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > > > > > > From: SteveDill
          > > > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > > > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:57 PM
          > > > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Broken Speed Sensor
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Hi Folks,
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > I posted a long time ago about my E-10 that wont go. After months of dianostics, I am now pretty sure it is a bad speed sensor on one of the motors.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Clues:
          > > > > > > > Screachy noise and no go. No screatchy with other motor.
          > > > > > > > Speedometer says I am going 0-80 and back in about 4 seconds while not moving.
          > > > > > > > Took protective covers off the motor and there is nothing obviously wrong.
          > > > > > > > The bearing do not seem to be loose. The rotor is solid and has no play.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > How do I fix the speed sensor?
          > > > > > > > Or does someone have a good motor I can use (borrow, rent buy) to see if it is just the speed sensor and not the entire motor?
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > I live in Santa Clara CA.
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > Thanks
          > > > > > > > Stephen
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > > >
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          >
        • SteveDill
          Spoke to Andreas at Kruspan Engineering. If your speed sensor is not working. 1. Check if the the black and white disk is scratched. The sensor is VERY
          Message 4 of 13 , Jul 20, 2010
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            Spoke to Andreas at Kruspan Engineering.

            If your speed sensor is not working.
            1. Check if the the black and white disk is scratched. The sensor is VERY sensitive to scratches. That is what the problem with mine was. Kruspan sent me a replacement disk but it was the last one. You will have to repair yours.

            2. If the sensor is really bad, you can replace it with a new design, but it requires you to machine 4mm off the diameter of the the rotor. The new sensors are much more accurate and robust. They cost ~$500 each.

            So my truck now works, but the speedometer does not indicate speeds above 22 mph, even if I am keeping up with traffic on a road with a 35 mph speed limit.

            Also the speed still jumps to 80 mph while sitting in the driveway.

            I will post an add to sell this beasty. It would be a great truck for someone who likes to tinker. I do not. I will give a good deal.

            Thanks for all the help.
            Stephen

            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@...> wrote:
            >
            > No offers to help or references to a place to buy a replacement?
            > OK then I guess I have to do it. Surface mounted, um. I can do this.
            >
            > Is there a circuit diagram for this anywhere? "Obsolete" parts make me think "Circuit redesign"
            >
            > Shopping list:
            > 1 * NXP - BC846B T/R - Transistor
            > 1 * TLC274/A/B/Y, TLC279
            > 2 * HONEYWELL S&C - HLC1395-001 - Optoswitch
            >
            > These parts dont say "in millions" so they wont break the bank.
            >
            > One of the photo sensors has a big scratch on it. So I suspect that is my problem. The new ones are more sensitive and will let the sensor ride further from the disk?
            >
            > Stephen
            >
            > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
            > >
            > > The cable is OK. There were low ohm connections between the end points of the cable. There were some 75K, 242K, and 5M ohm readings that I am assuming are supposed to be there.
            > >
            > > I de-soldered the two black wires that go into the motor chassis from the speed sensor board. What are those? I have removed the cable and sensor board assembly from the truck.
            > >
            > > I need to solder something? I am not so handy with a soldering iron, and all the components on this board are soldered on, so I will have to de-solder them first. I am not confident that I will not ruin the whole thing.
            > >
            > > You are certain that the speed sensor is the only thing broken? I am experienced with situations involving two bad components. I suppose I could remove the known good one from the good motor, but...
            > >
            > > I cannot buy a new speed sensor?
            > >
            > > Stephen
            > >
            > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > It sounds like yours has the IDC connector soldered to the board, to get to the other side to ohm out the cable would would need to remove the two screws and pull the whole sensor board out...
            > > >
            > > > But, since you have LEDs lighting then you have power to the board...
            > > >
            > > > And since you have one group working, but not the other... then one leg of the encoder sensor has gone bad...
            > > >
            > > > Even of the outputs of the cable where all shorted or open, all the LEDs should be turning on and off in sequence.
            > > >
            > > > I would first replace the TLC274 chip:
            > > > http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-1314-5-ND
            > > >
            > > > Then see if it works... If not, then I would replace the transistor:
            > > > http://www.newark.com/nxp/bc846b-t-r/transistor/dp/11N8498?Ntt=11n8498
            > > >
            > > > If it still does not work, then I would replace the optical sensor:
            > > > http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/hlc1395-001/optoswitch/dp/05M0281?Ntt=05m0281
            > > >
            > > > Or, just replace all three to be safe... since replacing parts one at a time, might cause the newly replaced part to go bad. ;)
            > > >
            > > > Note: The replacement optical sensor is a modern equivalent. It is not the original, as the original sensor is obsolete. I know that it looks significantly brighter (it is inferred, but you can tell the difference in brightness between the new one and the original one by looking at it with a CCD camera). So if you replace one of the sensors you should replace the other one too.
            > > >
            > > > That way they will both be working at the same distance. :)
            > > >
            > > > Wolf
            > > > *wags his tail*
            > > > www.wolftronix.com
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > > From: SteveDill
            > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            > > > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 10:30 PM
            > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Moving the speed sensor around, I got the two right LEDs to light. The left LEDs do not light at all.
            > > >
            > > > I am unable to get the plastic end of the speed sensor end of the cable open so I can measure the connectivity of the cable. The controller end of the cable looks pretty bad. I will try to clean it up better.
            > > >
            > > > Any other suggestions?
            > > >
            > > > Thanks,
            > > > Stephen
            > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > OK so by ohm it out, you mean I should get very low resistance between the 9-pin end and the 10-pin end.
            > > > >
            > > > > Stephen
            > > > >
            > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
            > > > > >
            > > > > > If they don't light up at all, I would check the cable...
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Unplug the the DE9 connector, and ohm it out between it and the 10 pin connector on the encoder board.
            > > > > >
            > > > > > The pin out should be as follows:
            > > > > >
            > > > > > 10-pin side 9-pin side Function
            > > > > > 1 X Not connected
            > > > > > 2 1 Unknown
            > > > > > 3 6 +6VDC
            > > > > > 4 2 GND
            > > > > > 5 7 B-
            > > > > > 6 3 A-
            > > > > > 7 8 B+
            > > > > > 8 4 A+
            > > > > > 9 9 Temp
            > > > > > 10 5 GND
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Wolf
            > > > > > *wags his tail*
            > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > > > > From: SteveDill
            > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:41 PM
            > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Thanks for the picture wolf. They dont light up.
            > > > > >
            > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Forgot to add a pic for you:
            > > > > > > http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P4030228.jpg
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > The LEDs are the two clear parts below the middle screw.
            > > > > > > The other two are located next to the 12.1.91 date on the encoder PCB.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Wolf
            > > > > > > *wags his tail*
            > > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > > > > > From: SteveDill
            > > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            > > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:24 PM
            > > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Broken Speed Sensor
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > My truck is on jack stands for testing. Here are my results:
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Both controllers turn the wheels when connected to the port motor.
            > > > > > > Neither controller turns the wheel when connected to the starboard motor.
            > > > > > > Manually turning the rear wheels does not light up anything on the starboard motor. Granted I dont know where the LEDs mentioned below are supposed to be.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > The manual says to connect the speed sensor from the good motor to the controller connected to the bad motor and that should trick the controller into making the motor go. It does not.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > The bad motor no longer makes the screetchy noise. It makes no noise.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Where might I get a new motor, or get this one fixed?
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Thanks
            > > > > > > Stephen
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@> wrote:
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > By "cover off the motor" I assume you mean the end cap that covers the speed sensor.
            > > > > > > > By "one of the drive wheels" I assume you mean the back wheels, and I am assuming that I only need to lift one and not both because the differential will be compensating for the lack of traction and allow the lifted wheel to spin freely? or something. I also assume that the I will be unable to turn the rotor of the motor by hand, so I cannot just disconnect the belt that ties the motors together.
            > > > > > > > By the "encoder circuit board" I assume you mean the little circuit board that fits over the black and white, radially striped disk on the end of the rotor.
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > I will give it a try.
            > > > > > > > Stephen
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@> wrote:
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > With the cover off the motor, and with one of the drive wheels jacked up so it can free spin...
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Turn on the truck, with the selector in neutral.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Next spin the wheel with your hand slowly.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > There are four LEDs on the encoder circuit board, they should turn on and off in sequence.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > If they don't or only some of them turn on, try moving the encoder board around by hand, or pressing on it.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > If you get any improvement, then you just need to adjust the board until all the LEDs are working properly.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > If you get no LEDs at all, then check the encoder cable.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Wolf
            > > > > > > > > *wags his tail*
            > > > > > > > > www.wolftronix.com
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > > > > > > > From: SteveDill
            > > > > > > > > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            > > > > > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:57 PM
            > > > > > > > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Broken Speed Sensor
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Hi Folks,
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > I posted a long time ago about my E-10 that wont go. After months of dianostics, I am now pretty sure it is a bad speed sensor on one of the motors.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Clues:
            > > > > > > > > Screachy noise and no go. No screatchy with other motor.
            > > > > > > > > Speedometer says I am going 0-80 and back in about 4 seconds while not moving.
            > > > > > > > > Took protective covers off the motor and there is nothing obviously wrong.
            > > > > > > > > The bearing do not seem to be loose. The rotor is solid and has no play.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > How do I fix the speed sensor?
            > > > > > > > > Or does someone have a good motor I can use (borrow, rent buy) to see if it is just the speed sensor and not the entire motor?
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > I live in Santa Clara CA.
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > Thanks
            > > > > > > > > Stephen
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > > >
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > >
            > >
            >
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