Re: Lifepo4 battery questions
- I will be waiting anxiously. This is where I am headed.
--- In email@example.com, "Wolf Packs, Inc." <traildog@...> wrote:
> I have ordered a BMS-48 from Hardy Electric Vehicles for my 48 100Ah
> Thundersky cells (that should be arriving around Thanksgiving). I'll
> be the Guinea Pig for the group with this BMS :-). I'll get everything
> installed as soon as possible and make a blog with photos and info for
> those who are interested.
> Paul Martin
> Ashland Oregon
> '97 Force
- Brusa "counts" the charge cycles on the caps to determine the current. As these solder connections start to fail, the caps deliver ever decreasing amounts of charge, and the actual current delivered drops off. So if you measure the actual current the Brusa delivers, and it is significantly less than the Brusa reports, then you are on your way to this type of failure. Wolf's fix will restore the charger and correct the current output so that it matches what the charger thinks it is doing.
Also, de-tuning the charger so that it doesn't run at full capacity will prolong the life because it won't run so hot.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Wolf" <wolf@...> wrote:
> I fixed a BC3300 charger. :)
> On the Capacitor board:
> The blue caps carry all the current to be delivered to the batteries...
> See page 30:
> They are C1, C2, C3, and C4.
> The problem is that Brusa used a very hard epoxy to glue the caps to the
> PCB and then soldered them... The thermal cycling of the caps, since they
> can't move, causes the solder joints to fail... then they start to arc:
> Simply touching up all the solder joints will fix the charger:
> I would recomend that anyone who has a BC3300 charger take is apart and
> touch up all the solder joints... It will help it last you another 15
> years. ;D
> Pics starting at:
> And ending at:
> Show how to disassemble the charger... since they like to stack boards on
> top of boards on top of other boards, with more boards stacked on the
> side... ;P
> All the pics:
> *wags his tail*