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Re: [solectria_ev] S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch

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  • Wolf
    Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running again. :) Here are all the repair pics: http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135 If anyone is
    Message 1 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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      Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
      again. :)

      Here are all the repair pics:
      http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135

      If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong and
      what needed to be replaced...

      Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took out
      the ignition module in the center console.

      i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
      electronics. :/

      So I still need to track that problem down...


      Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
      for auction:
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250510730063
      :)

      Wolf
      *wags his tail*
      www.wolftronix.com
    • Wolf
      Forgot the video link: http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135/videos/ And it loks like I forgot to change the subject title too. ;) Wolf *wags his tail*
      Message 2 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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        Forgot the video link:
        http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135/videos/

        And it loks like I forgot to change the subject title too. ;)

        Wolf
        *wags his tail*
        www.wolftronix.com

        >
        > Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
        > again. :)
        >
        > Here are all the repair pics:
        > http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135
        >
        > If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong and
        > what needed to be replaced...
        >
        > Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took out
        > the ignition module in the center console.
        >
        > i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
        > electronics. :/
        >
        > So I still need to track that problem down...
        >
        >
        > Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
        > for auction:
        > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250510730063
        > :)
        >
        > Wolf
        > *wags his tail*
        > www.wolftronix.com
        >
      • gjc0@aol.com
        Wolf: Thank you for the pictures. I would be interested in reading your narration. Sincerely, Gary Carlson 1992 Force ... From: Wolf To:
        Message 3 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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          Wolf:



          Thank you for the pictures.

          I would be interested in reading your narration.



          Sincerely,

          Gary Carlson

          1992 Force






          -----Original Message-----
          From: Wolf <wolf@...>
          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Mon, Oct 12, 2009 4:04 pm
          Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch







          Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
          again. :)

          Here are all the repair pics:
          http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135

          If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong and
          what needed to be replaced...

          Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took out
          the ignition module in the center console.

          i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
          electronics. :/

          So I still need to track that problem down...

          Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
          for auction:
          http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250510730063
          :)

          Wolf
          *wags his tail*
          www.wolftronix.com







          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • adderd@kkmfg.com
          I looked at every single picture and watched the video. Good job! I too would find a write up interesting. It s right up my alley. But, I ve got to say... You
          Message 4 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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            I looked at every single picture and watched the video. Good job! I too
            would find a write up interesting. It's right up my alley. But, I've got
            to say... You are one brave dude! That looked like one heck of a nuked
            board!

            One concern I'd have... It's hard to say for sure exactly what you
            replaced and what you didn't but how do you feel about the longevity of
            your fix? With stuff burnt as hard as that one board who knows what other
            sort of thermal damage and/or assorted electrical damage is lurking in the
            shadows? It's awesome that you were able to fix it but for how long? Bench
            testing and running 150A through it are two separate things! I don't want
            to jinx it though. Forget I mentioned it! ;)

            >
            > Forgot the video link:
            > http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135/videos/
            >
            > And it loks like I forgot to change the subject title too. ;)
            >
            > Wolf
            > *wags his tail*
            > www.wolftronix.com
            >
            >>
            >> Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
            >> again. :)
            >>
            >> Here are all the repair pics:
            >> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135
            >>
            >> If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong
            >> and
            >> what needed to be replaced...
            >>
            >> Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took
            >> out
            >> the ignition module in the center console.
            >>
            >> i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
            >> electronics. :/
            >>
            >> So I still need to track that problem down...
            >>
            >>
            >> Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
            >> for auction:
            >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250510730063
            >> :)
            >>
            >> Wolf
            >> *wags his tail*
            >> www.wolftronix.com
            >>
            >
            >
          • Arthur Marquardt
            Wolf: You say that the controller took out the ignition module did you determine this from measuring the 25pin connector if so what did it read? Art
            Message 5 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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              Wolf:
              You say that the controller took out the ignition module did you determine this from measuring the 25pin connector if so what did it read?
              Art




              ________________________________
              From: Wolf <wolf@...>
              To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 6:04:41 PM
              Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch

               

              Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
              again. :)

              Here are all the repair pics:
              http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135

              If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong and
              what needed to be replaced...

              Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took out
              the ignition module in the center console.

              i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
              electronics. :/

              So I still need to track that problem down...

              Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
              for auction:
              http://cgi.ebay com/ws/eBayISAPI .dll?ViewItem& item=25051073006 3
              :)

              Wolf
              *wags his tail*
              www.wolftronix. com



              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Lynn Long
              I m always interested in what wolf says and does. But, could someone help me with the forward/reverse problem I have. My S10 sometimes will either jump out
              Message 6 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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                I'm always interested in what wolf says and does. But, could someone help me with the forward/reverse problem I have. My S10 sometimes will either jump out of gear and/or not switch to foward or reverse. I'm hoping someone has already had and figured out this problem.
                Thank you,
                Lynn

                --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Arthur Marquardt <a-marquardt@...> wrote:


                From: Arthur Marquardt <a-marquardt@...>
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 6:55 PM


                 



                Wolf:
                You say that the controller took out the ignition module did you determine this from measuring the 25pin connector if so what did it read?
                Art

                ____________ _________ _________ __
                From: Wolf <wolf@wolftronix. com>
                To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
                Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 6:04:41 PM
                Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch

                 

                Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
                again. :)

                Here are all the repair pics:
                http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc230_ 1135

                If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong and
                what needed to be replaced...

                Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took out
                the ignition module in the center console.

                i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
                electronics. :/

                So I still need to track that problem down...

                Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
                for auction:
                http://cgi.ebay com/ws/eBayISAPI .dll?ViewItem& item=25051073006 3
                :)

                Wolf
                *wags his tail*
                www.wolftronix. com

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
















                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Ken
                Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults
                Message 7 of 15 , Oct 12, 2009
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                  Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults are cleared by taking your foot off the gas, some need you to switch the drive selector to neutral, then back to drive, and some faults require you to key off and back on--depends on how severe the fault. Next time, try to clear the fault with the pedal, then the drive selector switch, then keying off. But be careful if doing this while the vehicle is still moving. If the fault clears, and you have regen enabled, the vehicle will immediately go into full regen. Also, if you turn the key too far in keying off, the steering wheel will lock. So when you try this, it's best to disable regen and instead of keying off, turn the key to start (like you would to crank an engine) and then release it.

                  Ken

                  --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "lynnstarr2000" <lynnstarr@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > About a year ago, I was driving in foward with a load uphill. The ??motor jump to neutral. I thought that I might have hit the directional switch. Also, the voltage was low. In the last week, the truck does it anytime to include not going into foward or reverse from a stop or change of gears. No specific time then it will work again. (almost like it has to cool down, don't know). I guess that's what I'm saying "I don't know". I'm planning on going thru the complete directional switch to the motor. I hoping that maybe someone has already figured this out. I would appreciate any suggestions. (make it simple, please, ha ha)
                  > Lynn
                  >
                • Lynn Long
                  Thank you Ken, I ve tried everything that you ve listed. Do you think it is a motor fault, on the motor control box? Lynn ... From: Ken
                  Message 8 of 15 , Oct 13, 2009
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                    Thank you Ken,
                    I've tried everything that you've listed.
                    Do you think it is a motor fault, on the motor control box?
                    Lynn

                    --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Ken <sghiahughes@...> wrote:


                    From: Ken <sghiahughes@...>
                    Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                    To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                    Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:53 PM


                     



                    Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults are cleared by taking your foot off the gas, some need you to switch the drive selector to neutral, then back to drive, and some faults require you to key off and back on--depends on how severe the fault. Next time, try to clear the fault with the pedal, then the drive selector switch, then keying off. But be careful if doing this while the vehicle is still moving. If the fault clears, and you have regen enabled, the vehicle will immediately go into full regen. Also, if you turn the key too far in keying off, the steering wheel will lock. So when you try this, it's best to disable regen and instead of keying off, turn the key to start (like you would to crank an engine) and then release it.

                    Ken

                    --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "lynnstarr2000" <lynnstarr@. ..> wrote:
                    >
                    > About a year ago, I was driving in foward with a load uphill. The ??motor jump to neutral. I thought that I might have hit the directional switch. Also, the voltage was low. In the last week, the truck does it anytime to include not going into foward or reverse from a stop or change of gears. No specific time then it will work again. (almost like it has to cool down, don't know). I guess that's what I'm saying "I don't know". I'm planning on going thru the complete directional switch to the motor. I hoping that maybe someone has already figured this out. I would appreciate any suggestions. (make it simple, please, ha ha)
                    > Lynn
                    >
















                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Wolf
                    I will work on a write up for the site then. :) It looks realy bad, but its just the magic smoke that comes out of electronics... it got every where. ;) I
                    Message 9 of 15 , Oct 14, 2009
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                      I will work on a write up for the site then. :)

                      It looks realy bad, but its just the magic smoke that comes out of
                      electronics... it got every where. ;)

                      I think the repair will hold up... the only power component that blew up
                      was a diode.. at 180amps, it would only be passing 22.5 amps (8 of them in
                      parallel)... which is not realy a good estimate, since it switches to help
                      create the 3 phase sine wave to the motor.

                      All the other parts where gate driver logic for the MOSFETs, and all the
                      parts that where burned got replaced.

                      The high voltage/current path was from the frame of the truck (216V pack
                      was shorted to the truck frame), thru the heatsink, thru a damaged
                      isolation barrier, thru the diode tab, and then retuned to the battery
                      pack thru the gound wire.

                      Wolf
                      *wags his tail*
                      www.wolftronix.com

                      > I looked at every single picture and watched the video. Good job! I too
                      > would find a write up interesting. It's right up my alley. But, I've got
                      > to say... You are one brave dude! That looked like one heck of a nuked
                      > board!
                      >
                      > One concern I'd have... It's hard to say for sure exactly what you
                      > replaced and what you didn't but how do you feel about the longevity of
                      > your fix? With stuff burnt as hard as that one board who knows what other
                      > sort of thermal damage and/or assorted electrical damage is lurking in the
                      > shadows? It's awesome that you were able to fix it but for how long? Bench
                      > testing and running 150A through it are two separate things! I don't want
                      > to jinx it though. Forget I mentioned it! ;)
                      >
                      >>
                      >> Forgot the video link:
                      >> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135/videos/
                      >>
                      >> And it loks like I forgot to change the subject title too. ;)
                      >>
                      >> Wolf
                      >> *wags his tail*
                      >> www.wolftronix.com
                      >>
                      >>>
                      >>> Over the weekend I got the exploded AMC 230 motor controller running
                      >>> again. :)
                      >>>
                      >>> Here are all the repair pics:
                      >>> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc230_1135
                      >>>
                      >>> If anyone is intrested I could do a quick write up of what went wrong
                      >>> and
                      >>> what needed to be replaced...
                      >>>
                      >>> Althow, the motor controller is 100% fixed, it looks like it also took
                      >>> out
                      >>> the ignition module in the center console.
                      >>>
                      >>> i.e. The controller runs on my AMC test box, but not with the trucks
                      >>> electronics. :/
                      >>>
                      >>> So I still need to track that problem down...
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> Also, for those that celebrate Halloween, I have an animatronic tail up
                      >>> for auction:
                      >>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250510730063
                      >>> :)
                      >>>
                      >>> Wolf
                      >>> *wags his tail*
                      >>> www.wolftronix.com
                      >>>
                      >>
                      >>
                      >
                      >
                    • Ken
                      Hard to say what the fault is without plugging into the controller to see what is happening. How often does it happen? When it happens, how do you get it to
                      Message 10 of 15 , Oct 14, 2009
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                        Hard to say what the fault is without plugging into the controller to see what is happening. How often does it happen? When it happens, how do you get it to work again? Do you key off, or switch to neutral and back to drive, or just wait? Do you know what model controller you have?

                        This vehicle actually has 2 controllers and 2 motors, so if only one controller faults, the other should still provide enough power to move the vehicle, although without as much pep. So if the vehicle totally stops, it is probably the pedal or the console. It could be as simple as a loose or corroded connector that causes the controller to lose a signal or 12V whenever you hit a little bump. I would check all the signal connectors on the console and controller for corrosion and for full engagement. Check that the pins are clean and straight and in good condition.

                        A bad ground or bad shielding could cause a controller to fault too. Check that the motors and controllers are grounded to the vehicle chassis.

                        It's also possible that the battery is bad, so that when you draw a high current the voltage drops so fast that the controllers fault. Then they would reset when the battery voltage recovers.

                        Ken

                        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Lynn Long <lynnstarr@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Thank you Ken,
                        > I've tried everything that you've listed.
                        > Do you think it is a motor fault, on the motor control box?
                        > Lynn
                        >
                        > --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Ken <sghiahughes@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > From: Ken <sghiahughes@...>
                        > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                        > Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:53 PM
                        >
                        >
                        >  
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults are cleared by taking your foot off the gas, some need you to switch the drive selector to neutral, then back to drive, and some faults require you to key off and back on--depends on how severe the fault. Next time, try to clear the fault with the pedal, then the drive selector switch, then keying off. But be careful if doing this while the vehicle is still moving. If the fault clears, and you have regen enabled, the vehicle will immediately go into full regen. Also, if you turn the key too far in keying off, the steering wheel will lock. So when you try this, it's best to disable regen and instead of keying off, turn the key to start (like you would to crank an engine) and then release it.
                        >
                        > Ken
                        >
                        > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "lynnstarr2000" <lynnstarr@ ..> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > About a year ago, I was driving in foward with a load uphill. The ??motor jump to neutral. I thought that I might have hit the directional switch. Also, the voltage was low. In the last week, the truck does it anytime to include not going into foward or reverse from a stop or change of gears. No specific time then it will work again. (almost like it has to cool down, don't know). I guess that's what I'm saying "I don't know". I'm planning on going thru the complete directional switch to the motor. I hoping that maybe someone has already figured this out. I would appreciate any suggestions. (make it simple, please, ha ha)
                        > > Lynn
                        > >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        >
                      • Lynn Long
                        Thanks Ken, I plan to check what I can this weekend. The only free time I have. I ll let you know the results.   Lynn ... From: Ken
                        Message 11 of 15 , Oct 14, 2009
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                          Thanks Ken,
                          I plan to check what I can this weekend. The only free time I have. I'll let you know the results.
                           
                          Lynn

                          --- On Wed, 10/14/09, Ken <sghiahughes@...> wrote:


                          From: Ken <sghiahughes@...>
                          Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Wednesday, October 14, 2009, 5:50 PM


                           



                          Hard to say what the fault is without plugging into the controller to see what is happening. How often does it happen? When it happens, how do you get it to work again? Do you key off, or switch to neutral and back to drive, or just wait? Do you know what model controller you have?

                          This vehicle actually has 2 controllers and 2 motors, so if only one controller faults, the other should still provide enough power to move the vehicle, although without as much pep. So if the vehicle totally stops, it is probably the pedal or the console. It could be as simple as a loose or corroded connector that causes the controller to lose a signal or 12V whenever you hit a little bump. I would check all the signal connectors on the console and controller for corrosion and for full engagement. Check that the pins are clean and straight and in good condition.

                          A bad ground or bad shielding could cause a controller to fault too. Check that the motors and controllers are grounded to the vehicle chassis.

                          It's also possible that the battery is bad, so that when you draw a high current the voltage drops so fast that the controllers fault. Then they would reset when the battery voltage recovers.

                          Ken

                          --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Lynn Long <lynnstarr@. ..> wrote:
                          >
                          > Thank you Ken,
                          > I've tried everything that you've listed.
                          > Do you think it is a motor fault, on the motor control box?
                          > Lynn
                          >
                          > --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Ken <sghiahughes@ ...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > From: Ken <sghiahughes@ ...>
                          > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                          > To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
                          > Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:53 PM
                          >
                          >
                          >  
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults are cleared by taking your foot off the gas, some need you to switch the drive selector to neutral, then back to drive, and some faults require you to key off and back on--depends on how severe the fault. Next time, try to clear the fault with the pedal, then the drive selector switch, then keying off. But be careful if doing this while the vehicle is still moving. If the fault clears, and you have regen enabled, the vehicle will immediately go into full regen. Also, if you turn the key too far in keying off, the steering wheel will lock. So when you try this, it's best to disable regen and instead of keying off, turn the key to start (like you would to crank an engine) and then release it.
                          >
                          > Ken
                          >
                          > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "lynnstarr2000" <lynnstarr@ ..> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > About a year ago, I was driving in foward with a load uphill. The ??motor jump to neutral. I thought that I might have hit the directional switch. Also, the voltage was low. In the last week, the truck does it anytime to include not going into foward or reverse from a stop or change of gears. No specific time then it will work again. (almost like it has to cool down, don't know). I guess that's what I'm saying "I don't know". I'm planning on going thru the complete directional switch to the motor. I hoping that maybe someone has already figured this out. I would appreciate any suggestions. (make it simple, please, ha ha)
                          > > Lynn
                          > >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
















                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Lynn Long
                          Fixed. I disconnected every pin. I removed and cleaned all grounds. I cleaned and insured every pin was properly connected. Problem solved. Thanks for all the
                          Message 12 of 15 , Oct 18, 2009
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                            Fixed. I disconnected every pin. I removed and cleaned all grounds. I cleaned and insured every pin was properly connected. Problem solved.
                            Thanks for all the help.
                            Lynn 

                            --- On Wed, 10/14/09, Ken <sghiahughes@...> wrote:


                            From: Ken <sghiahughes@...>
                            Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                            To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                            Date: Wednesday, October 14, 2009, 5:50 PM


                             



                            Hard to say what the fault is without plugging into the controller to see what is happening. How often does it happen? When it happens, how do you get it to work again? Do you key off, or switch to neutral and back to drive, or just wait? Do you know what model controller you have?

                            This vehicle actually has 2 controllers and 2 motors, so if only one controller faults, the other should still provide enough power to move the vehicle, although without as much pep. So if the vehicle totally stops, it is probably the pedal or the console. It could be as simple as a loose or corroded connector that causes the controller to lose a signal or 12V whenever you hit a little bump. I would check all the signal connectors on the console and controller for corrosion and for full engagement. Check that the pins are clean and straight and in good condition.

                            A bad ground or bad shielding could cause a controller to fault too. Check that the motors and controllers are grounded to the vehicle chassis.

                            It's also possible that the battery is bad, so that when you draw a high current the voltage drops so fast that the controllers fault. Then they would reset when the battery voltage recovers.

                            Ken

                            --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Lynn Long <lynnstarr@. ..> wrote:
                            >
                            > Thank you Ken,
                            > I've tried everything that you've listed.
                            > Do you think it is a motor fault, on the motor control box?
                            > Lynn
                            >
                            > --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Ken <sghiahughes@ ...> wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            > From: Ken <sghiahughes@ ...>
                            > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: S10 Solectria forward/reverse switch
                            > To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
                            > Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:53 PM
                            >
                            >
                            >  
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Sounds like the controller faulted while operating. This can happen because of an overcurrent, overvoltage, short, bad ground wire, noise, .... Some faults are cleared by taking your foot off the gas, some need you to switch the drive selector to neutral, then back to drive, and some faults require you to key off and back on--depends on how severe the fault. Next time, try to clear the fault with the pedal, then the drive selector switch, then keying off. But be careful if doing this while the vehicle is still moving. If the fault clears, and you have regen enabled, the vehicle will immediately go into full regen. Also, if you turn the key too far in keying off, the steering wheel will lock. So when you try this, it's best to disable regen and instead of keying off, turn the key to start (like you would to crank an engine) and then release it.
                            >
                            > Ken
                            >
                            > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "lynnstarr2000" <lynnstarr@ ..> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > About a year ago, I was driving in foward with a load uphill. The ??motor jump to neutral. I thought that I might have hit the directional switch. Also, the voltage was low. In the last week, the truck does it anytime to include not going into foward or reverse from a stop or change of gears. No specific time then it will work again. (almost like it has to cool down, don't know). I guess that's what I'm saying "I don't know". I'm planning on going thru the complete directional switch to the motor. I hoping that maybe someone has already figured this out. I would appreciate any suggestions. (make it simple, please, ha ha)
                            > > Lynn
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