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Re: Interlock circuits

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  • Ray Alden
    Thanks, Jim. Seems like I should learn more about that test box than I now know. I ll be back with more. Ray ... test ... air ... (eek ... the ... and ...
    Message 1 of 21 , Mar 11, 2009
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      Thanks, Jim. Seems like I should learn more about that test box than I
      now know.
      I'll be back with more.
      Ray

      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Jim Coate <jbc_lists_no_reply@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Perhaps I'm missing something, but I don't see any reason to be
      > suspecting the ignition box, charger interlocks, etc at this point.
      >
      > As I understand it (from Wolf's handy pictures) the test box connects
      > directly to the controller and takes the place of all the various
      > selector switches, ignition box, charger interlock and other control
      > signals.
      >
      > If the controller is connected only to the battery pack and to the
      test
      > box (and maybe the motor if the car is up on jack stands?), and it
      > doesn't work, the doesn't the problem then have to be in the batteries
      > or the controller?
      >
      > Looking at it another way...when replacing the batteries, the only
      > things disturbed are the batteries and the controller, and maybe the
      air
      > conditioning stuff depending on the particular car. So those are the
      > most likely places to look for a problem.
      >
      > If the batteries are wired properly, and not shorted to the chasis
      (eek
      > if they are!), then that leaves the controller. Problems with the
      > controller could range from the multi-pin connectors on the side of
      the
      > case being corroded to electronic failures inside the controller. If
      and
      > only if the controller works with the test box would I worry with the
      > various switches and interlock circuits in the car.
      >
      > (all of the above assumes the test box works :-)
      >
      >
      > Ray Alden wrote:
      > >
      > > There was nothing intermittent; the car worked fine before; it would
      not
      > > drive at all after the new batteries were installed.
      > > Headlights, radio, alarm tones and lights, turn signals, etc. all
      work
      > > just fine. That's why I gave this topic its title. All symptoms
      match
      > > the idea that an interlock circuit is preventing motion under power.
      > >
      > > I did not know the stack was isolated from the chassis.
      > >
      > > Yesterday evening we changed out the ignition box and the
      directional
      > > control switch, without any change in the problem.
      >
      >
      > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
      > NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
      > To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
      > http://www.coate.org/contact_jim/
      > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
      >
      > --
      > Jim Coate, Spencertown, New York
      > 1997 Solectria Force, 1970's Elec-Traks
      > http://www.eeevee.com
      > http://www.ElectricTractorStore.com
      >
    • Ray Alden
      Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on my idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred, before leaving
      Message 2 of 21 , Apr 3 4:37 PM
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        Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on my
        idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred,
        before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
        suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
        My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins 1
        and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
        connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to do.
        Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
        Your help is sure appreciated!
        Ray


        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
        > http://www.wolftronix.com/amc320/Manual_AMC_III.pdf :)
        >
        >
        > Wolf
        > *wags his tail*
        > www.wolftronix.com
        >
        > > By the way . . .
        > > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics, or
        > > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in the
        > > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
        > >
        > > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
        > >
        > > Ray
        > >
        > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
        > >>
        > >>
        > >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller. ;)
        > >>
        > >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_drive
        > >>
        > >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or what
        you
        > > have
        > >> been exposed to...
        > >>
        > >> In my day job, I make these:
        > >> http://www.frasca.com/web_pages/brochures/S92bro.htm
        > >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
        > >>
        > >> Anyway, intresting bit of information... So it was all working fine
        > > and
        > >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work anymore...
        > >>
        > >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
        > > batteries?
        > >>
        > >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
        > >>
        > >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
        > >>
        > >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the battery
        > > stack
        > >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
        > >>
        > >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
        disasembly
        > > and
        > >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new batteries),
        and
        > >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
        inspection
        > > of
        > >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
        > >>
        > >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that good:
        > >> http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P5240145.jpg
        > >>
        > >> Fixed connector:
        > >> http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P5240147.jpg
        > >>
        > >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause they
        > > where
        > >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
        > >> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc320_connector
        > >>
        > >> Wolf
        > >> *wags his tail*
        > >> www.wolftronix.com
        > >>
        > >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have, by
        the
        > > way,
        > >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts. I
        > > didn't
        > >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy replaced
        the
        > >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has done
        > > this
        > >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
        > > batteries,
        > >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
        hasn't
        > > yet
        > >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been checked
        > > over,
        > >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
        > >> >
        > >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the word
        > > "drive"
        > >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me just
        > > what
        > >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
        > >> >
        > >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power to
        the
        > >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
        connectors
        > >> > visible when I raise the hood?
        > >> >
        > >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
        about,
        > > and
        > >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight. I'll
        try,
        > > in
        > >> > the morning.
        > >> >
        > >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
        inside
        > > the
        > >> > controller?
        > >> >
        > >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a long-retired
        > >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power equipment or
        > > motor
        > >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
        > >> >
        > >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
        > >> >
        > >> > Ray
        > >> >
        > >> >
        > >> > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
        > >> >>
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes out
        > >> > there... :P
        > >> >>
        > >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
        > >> >> http://www.wolftronix.com/AMC_Control/
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
        > >> >>
        > >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am investing in
        my
        > >> > own
        > >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck to
        test
        > >> >> repaired parts. :)
        > >> >>
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
        external
        > >> > power
        > >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a volt
        > > meter
        > >> > that
        > >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
        short
        > > out
        > >> > pin
        > >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk" then
        > > the
        > >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
        nothing,
        > >> > well,
        > >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector back to
        > > your
        > >> > car,
        > >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
        > >> >>
        > >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
        > >> >>
        > >> >>
        > >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
        > >> > interlocks, or
        > >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Testing the interlocks:
        > >> >>
        > >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin connector.
        > > Then
        > >> > using
        > >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on the
        25
        > >> > pin
        > >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
        > >> >>
        > >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
        ohms
        > >> > (short).
        > >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
        infinity
        > >> > (open).
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
        neutral
        > >> > switch.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit, when
        in
        > >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in forward.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
        circuit,
        > > when
        > >> > in
        > >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in reverse.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be around 0
        > > ohms
        > >> > when
        > >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K ohms
        when
        > >> > fully
        > >> >> pressed.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be around
        1K
        > > ohms
        > >> > in
        > >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in performance.
        (if
        > > you
        > >> > have
        > >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
        > >> >>
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Hope this helps. :)
        > >> >>
        > >> >>
        > >> >> Wolf
        > >> >> *wags his tail*
        > >> >> www.wolftronix.com
        > >> >>
        > >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
        > > Solectria
        > >> > motor
        > >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
        turned
        > > on
        > >> > and the
        > >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the battery
        > >> > charger is
        > >> >> > on – i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek information
        > > about
        > >> > these
        > >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
        > > Solectria.
        > >> > At
        > >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
        > > Everything
        > >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
        nothing.
        > >> >> >
        > >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria to
        test
        > > the
        > >> >> > controller – i.e. the large box with "Solectria" on the
        top
        > >> > – which when
        > >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is that
        power
        > >> > within
        > >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the cause
        to
        > > be
        > >> > an
        > >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
        connector
        > >> > leading
        > >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from the
        one
        > >> > leading
        > >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
        above
        > > the
        > >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the two
        > >> > interlock
        > >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the ignition
        box
        > >> > and the
        > >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
        > >> >> >
        > >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone have
        > >> > knowledge
        > >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
        suggestion
        > > as
        > >> > to
        > >> >> > how I should proceed?
        > >> >> >
        > >> >> >
        > >> >> >
        > >> >>
        > >> >
        > >> >
        > >> >
        > >>
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • Bill or Dorothy Swann
        I read in the fine print in the manual, that the battery voltage needs to be applied for a minute before shorting the pins. It worked for me. Thanks,Bill S Ph
        Message 3 of 21 , Apr 3 7:02 PM
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          I read in the fine print in the manual, that the battery voltage needs to be applied for a minute before shorting the pins. It worked for me.

          Thanks,Bill S
          Ph 832-338-3080
          www.hstech.biz
          www.promotingevs.com




          ________________________________
          From: Ray Alden <rmalden_2000@...>
          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:37:16 PM
          Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits


          Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on my
          idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred,
          before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
          suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
          My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins 1
          and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
          connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to do.
          Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
          Your help is sure appreciated!
          Ray

          --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" <wolf@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
          > http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320/ Manual_AMC_ III.pdf :)
          >
          >
          > Wolf
          > *wags his tail*
          > www.wolftronix. com
          >
          > > By the way . . .
          > > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics, or
          > > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in the
          > > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
          > >
          > > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
          > >
          > > Ray
          > >
          > > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
          > >>
          > >>
          > >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller. ;)
          > >>
          > >> http://en.wikipedia .org/wiki/ Servo_drive
          > >>
          > >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or what
          you
          > > have
          > >> been exposed to...
          > >>
          > >> In my day job, I make these:
          > >> http://www.frasca com/web_pages/ brochures/ S92bro.htm
          > >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
          > >>
          > >> Anyway, intresting bit of information. .. So it was all working fine
          > > and
          > >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work anymore...
          > >>
          > >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
          > > batteries?
          > >>
          > >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
          > >>
          > >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
          > >>
          > >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the battery
          > > stack
          > >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
          > >>
          > >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
          disasembly
          > > and
          > >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new batteries),
          and
          > >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
          inspection
          > > of
          > >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
          > >>
          > >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that good:
          > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240145. jpg
          > >>
          > >> Fixed connector:
          > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240147. jpg
          > >>
          > >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause they
          > > where
          > >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
          > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320_ connector
          > >>
          > >> Wolf
          > >> *wags his tail*
          > >> www.wolftronix. com
          > >>
          > >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have, by
          the
          > > way,
          > >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts. I
          > > didn't
          > >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy replaced
          the
          > >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has done
          > > this
          > >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
          > > batteries,
          > >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
          hasn't
          > > yet
          > >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been checked
          > > over,
          > >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
          > >> >
          > >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the word
          > > "drive"
          > >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me just
          > > what
          > >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
          > >> >
          > >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power to
          the
          > >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
          connectors
          > >> > visible when I raise the hood?
          > >> >
          > >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
          about,
          > > and
          > >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight. I'll
          try,
          > > in
          > >> > the morning.
          > >> >
          > >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
          inside
          > > the
          > >> > controller?
          > >> >
          > >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a long-retired
          > >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power equipment or
          > > motor
          > >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
          > >> >
          > >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
          > >> >
          > >> > Ray
          > >> >
          > >> >
          > >> > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
          > >> >>
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes out
          > >> > there... :P
          > >> >>
          > >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
          > >> >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/AMC_ Control/
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
          > >> >>
          > >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am investing in
          my
          > >> > own
          > >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck to
          test
          > >> >> repaired parts. :)
          > >> >>
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
          external
          > >> > power
          > >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a volt
          > > meter
          > >> > that
          > >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
          short
          > > out
          > >> > pin
          > >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk" then
          > > the
          > >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
          nothing,
          > >> > well,
          > >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector back to
          > > your
          > >> > car,
          > >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
          > >> >>
          > >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
          > >> >>
          > >> >>
          > >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
          > >> > interlocks, or
          > >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Testing the interlocks:
          > >> >>
          > >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin connector.
          > > Then
          > >> > using
          > >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on the
          25
          > >> > pin
          > >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
          > >> >>
          > >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
          ohms
          > >> > (short).
          > >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
          infinity
          > >> > (open).
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
          neutral
          > >> > switch.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit, when
          in
          > >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in forward.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
          circuit,
          > > when
          > >> > in
          > >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in reverse.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be around 0
          > > ohms
          > >> > when
          > >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K ohms
          when
          > >> > fully
          > >> >> pressed.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be around
          1K
          > > ohms
          > >> > in
          > >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in performance.
          (if
          > > you
          > >> > have
          > >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
          > >> >>
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Hope this helps. :)
          > >> >>
          > >> >>
          > >> >> Wolf
          > >> >> *wags his tail*
          > >> >> www.wolftronix. com
          > >> >>
          > >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
          > > Solectria
          > >> > motor
          > >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
          turned
          > > on
          > >> > and the
          > >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the battery
          > >> > charger is
          > >> >> > on – i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek information
          > > about
          > >> > these
          > >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
          > > Solectria.
          > >> > At
          > >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
          > > Everything
          > >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
          nothing.
          > >> >> >
          > >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria to
          test
          > > the
          > >> >> > controller – i.e. the large box with "Solectria" on the
          top
          > >> > – which when
          > >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is that
          power
          > >> > within
          > >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the cause
          to
          > > be
          > >> > an
          > >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
          connector
          > >> > leading
          > >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from the
          one
          > >> > leading
          > >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
          above
          > > the
          > >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the two
          > >> > interlock
          > >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the ignition
          box
          > >> > and the
          > >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
          > >> >> >
          > >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone have
          > >> > knowledge
          > >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
          suggestion
          > > as
          > >> > to
          > >> >> > how I should proceed?
          > >> >> >
          > >> >> >
          > >> >> >
          > >> >>
          > >> >
          > >> >
          > >> >
          > >>
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >




          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Wolf
          If after shorting out pins 1 and 14 with no thunk then either the standby supply has failed or the main supply has failed. The next thing I would check is
          Message 4 of 21 , Apr 5 3:04 PM
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            If after shorting out pins 1 and 14 with no "thunk" then either the
            standby supply has failed or the main supply has failed.

            The next thing I would check is the fuse:
            http://www.wolftronix.com/amc325_1114/images/IMG_6910.jpg
            located on the right hand side of the pic, under the lable (caution full
            battery stack voltage is present in that section).

            The other thing you could easily check is this diode:
            http://www.wolftronix.com/amc320/images/IMG_7298.jpg
            Middle of the pic

            I had one drive where it was the part that was keeping it from turning it
            on... But i think that might be a rare problem.

            Wolf
            *wags his tail*
            www.wolftronix.com

            > Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on my
            > idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred,
            > before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
            > suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
            > My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins 1
            > and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
            > connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to do.
            > Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
            > Your help is sure appreciated!
            > Ray
            >
            >
            > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" <wolf@...> wrote:
            >>
            >>
            >> All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
            >> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc320/Manual_AMC_III.pdf :)
            >>
            >>
            >> Wolf
            >> *wags his tail*
            >> www.wolftronix.com
            >>
            >> > By the way . . .
            >> > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics, or
            >> > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in the
            >> > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
            >> >
            >> > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
            >> >
            >> > Ray
            >> >
            >> > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
            >> >>
            >> >>
            >> >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller. ;)
            >> >>
            >> >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_drive
            >> >>
            >> >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or what
            > you
            >> > have
            >> >> been exposed to...
            >> >>
            >> >> In my day job, I make these:
            >> >> http://www.frasca.com/web_pages/brochures/S92bro.htm
            >> >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
            >> >>
            >> >> Anyway, intresting bit of information... So it was all working fine
            >> > and
            >> >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work anymore...
            >> >>
            >> >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
            >> > batteries?
            >> >>
            >> >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
            >> >>
            >> >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
            >> >>
            >> >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the battery
            >> > stack
            >> >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
            >> >>
            >> >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
            > disasembly
            >> > and
            >> >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new batteries),
            > and
            >> >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
            > inspection
            >> > of
            >> >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
            >> >>
            >> >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that good:
            >> >> http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P5240145.jpg
            >> >>
            >> >> Fixed connector:
            >> >> http://www.wolftronix.com/E10/images/P5240147.jpg
            >> >>
            >> >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause they
            >> > where
            >> >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
            >> >> http://www.wolftronix.com/amc320_connector
            >> >>
            >> >> Wolf
            >> >> *wags his tail*
            >> >> www.wolftronix.com
            >> >>
            >> >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have, by
            > the
            >> > way,
            >> >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts. I
            >> > didn't
            >> >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy replaced
            > the
            >> >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has done
            >> > this
            >> >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
            >> > batteries,
            >> >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
            > hasn't
            >> > yet
            >> >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been checked
            >> > over,
            >> >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
            >> >> >
            >> >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the word
            >> > "drive"
            >> >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me just
            >> > what
            >> >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
            >> >> >
            >> >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power to
            > the
            >> >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
            > connectors
            >> >> > visible when I raise the hood?
            >> >> >
            >> >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
            > about,
            >> > and
            >> >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight. I'll
            > try,
            >> > in
            >> >> > the morning.
            >> >> >
            >> >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
            > inside
            >> > the
            >> >> > controller?
            >> >> >
            >> >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a long-retired
            >> >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power equipment or
            >> > motor
            >> >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
            >> >> >
            >> >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
            >> >> >
            >> >> > Ray
            >> >> >
            >> >> >
            >> >> > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes out
            >> >> > there... :P
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
            >> >> >> http://www.wolftronix.com/AMC_Control/
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am investing in
            > my
            >> >> > own
            >> >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck to
            > test
            >> >> >> repaired parts. :)
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
            > external
            >> >> > power
            >> >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a volt
            >> > meter
            >> >> > that
            >> >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
            > short
            >> > out
            >> >> > pin
            >> >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk" then
            >> > the
            >> >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
            > nothing,
            >> >> > well,
            >> >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector back to
            >> > your
            >> >> > car,
            >> >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
            >> >> > interlocks, or
            >> >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Testing the interlocks:
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin connector.
            >> > Then
            >> >> > using
            >> >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on the
            > 25
            >> >> > pin
            >> >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
            > ohms
            >> >> > (short).
            >> >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
            > infinity
            >> >> > (open).
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
            > neutral
            >> >> > switch.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit, when
            > in
            >> >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in forward.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
            > circuit,
            >> > when
            >> >> > in
            >> >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in reverse.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be around 0
            >> > ohms
            >> >> > when
            >> >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K ohms
            > when
            >> >> > fully
            >> >> >> pressed.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be around
            > 1K
            >> > ohms
            >> >> > in
            >> >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in performance.
            > (if
            >> > you
            >> >> > have
            >> >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Hope this helps. :)
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> Wolf
            >> >> >> *wags his tail*
            >> >> >> www.wolftronix.com
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
            >> > Solectria
            >> >> > motor
            >> >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
            > turned
            >> > on
            >> >> > and the
            >> >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the battery
            >> >> > charger is
            >> >> >> > on – i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek information
            >> > about
            >> >> > these
            >> >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
            >> > Solectria.
            >> >> > At
            >> >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
            >> > Everything
            >> >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
            > nothing.
            >> >> >> >
            >> >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria to
            > test
            >> > the
            >> >> >> > controller – i.e. the large box with "Solectria" on the
            > top
            >> >> > – which when
            >> >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is that
            > power
            >> >> > within
            >> >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the cause
            > to
            >> > be
            >> >> > an
            >> >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
            > connector
            >> >> > leading
            >> >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from the
            > one
            >> >> > leading
            >> >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
            > above
            >> > the
            >> >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the two
            >> >> > interlock
            >> >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the ignition
            > box
            >> >> > and the
            >> >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
            >> >> >> >
            >> >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone have
            >> >> > knowledge
            >> >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
            > suggestion
            >> > as
            >> >> > to
            >> >> >> > how I should proceed?
            >> >> >> >
            >> >> >> >
            >> >> >> >
            >> >> >>
            >> >> >
            >> >> >
            >> >> >
            >> >>
            >> >
            >> >
            >> >
            >>
            >
            >
            >
          • Ray Alden
            Thanks, Bill: I take it you mean full pack voltage, is that correct? When I made that test -- pins 1 to 14 -- 12v control voltage was applied, but I think
            Message 5 of 21 , Apr 5 3:46 PM
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              Thanks, Bill: I take it you mean full pack voltage, is that correct?
              When I made that test -- pins 1 to 14 -- 12v control voltage was
              applied, but I think that I'd pulled the high-voltage connector. I'd
              better do that over again!
              Can you tell me where in the manual you found that "fine print"? I'm
              just learning my way around in that book.
              Ray



              --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Bill or Dorothy Swann
              <dbswann4@...> wrote:
              >
              > I read in the fine print in the manual, that the battery voltage needs
              to be applied for a minute before shorting the pins. It worked for me.
              >
              > Thanks,Bill S
              > Ph 832-338-3080
              > www.hstech.biz
              > www.promotingevs.com
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ________________________________
              > From: Ray Alden rmalden_2000@...
              > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
              > Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:37:16 PM
              > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits
              >
              >
              > Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on
              my
              > idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred,
              > before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
              > suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
              > My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins 1
              > and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
              > connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to
              do.
              > Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
              > Your help is sure appreciated!
              > Ray
              >
              > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
              > > http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320/ Manual_AMC_ III.pdf :)
              > >
              > >
              > > Wolf
              > > *wags his tail*
              > > www.wolftronix. com
              > >
              > > > By the way . . .
              > > > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics,
              or
              > > > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in the
              > > > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
              > > >
              > > > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
              > > >
              > > > Ray
              > > >
              > > > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
              > > >>
              > > >>
              > > >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller. ;)
              > > >>
              > > >> http://en.wikipedia .org/wiki/ Servo_drive
              > > >>
              > > >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or what
              > you
              > > > have
              > > >> been exposed to...
              > > >>
              > > >> In my day job, I make these:
              > > >> http://www.frasca com/web_pages/ brochures/ S92bro.htm
              > > >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
              > > >>
              > > >> Anyway, intresting bit of information. .. So it was all working
              fine
              > > > and
              > > >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work
              anymore...
              > > >>
              > > >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
              > > > batteries?
              > > >>
              > > >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
              > > >>
              > > >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
              > > >>
              > > >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the battery
              > > > stack
              > > >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
              > > >>
              > > >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
              > disasembly
              > > > and
              > > >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new batteries),
              > and
              > > >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
              > inspection
              > > > of
              > > >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
              > > >>
              > > >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that
              good:
              > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240145. jpg
              > > >>
              > > >> Fixed connector:
              > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240147. jpg
              > > >>
              > > >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause
              they
              > > > where
              > > >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
              > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320_ connector
              > > >>
              > > >> Wolf
              > > >> *wags his tail*
              > > >> www.wolftronix. com
              > > >>
              > > >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have, by
              > the
              > > > way,
              > > >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts. I
              > > > didn't
              > > >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy
              replaced
              > the
              > > >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has
              done
              > > > this
              > > >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
              > > > batteries,
              > > >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
              > hasn't
              > > > yet
              > > >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been
              checked
              > > > over,
              > > >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
              > > >> >
              > > >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the word
              > > > "drive"
              > > >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me
              just
              > > > what
              > > >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
              > > >> >
              > > >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power
              to
              > the
              > > >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
              > connectors
              > > >> > visible when I raise the hood?
              > > >> >
              > > >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
              > about,
              > > > and
              > > >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight. I'll
              > try,
              > > > in
              > > >> > the morning.
              > > >> >
              > > >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
              > inside
              > > > the
              > > >> > controller?
              > > >> >
              > > >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a long-retired
              > > >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power equipment
              or
              > > > motor
              > > >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
              > > >> >
              > > >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
              > > >> >
              > > >> > Ray
              > > >> >
              > > >> >
              > > >> > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes
              out
              > > >> > there... :P
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
              > > >> >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/AMC_ Control/
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am investing
              in
              > my
              > > >> > own
              > > >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck to
              > test
              > > >> >> repaired parts. :)
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
              > external
              > > >> > power
              > > >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a volt
              > > > meter
              > > >> > that
              > > >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
              > short
              > > > out
              > > >> > pin
              > > >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk"
              then
              > > > the
              > > >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
              > nothing,
              > > >> > well,
              > > >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector back
              to
              > > > your
              > > >> > car,
              > > >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
              > > >> > interlocks, or
              > > >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Testing the interlocks:
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin
              connector.
              > > > Then
              > > >> > using
              > > >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on
              the
              > 25
              > > >> > pin
              > > >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
              > ohms
              > > >> > (short).
              > > >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
              > infinity
              > > >> > (open).
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
              > neutral
              > > >> > switch.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit,
              when
              > in
              > > >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in forward.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
              > circuit,
              > > > when
              > > >> > in
              > > >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in reverse.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be around
              0
              > > > ohms
              > > >> > when
              > > >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K ohms
              > when
              > > >> > fully
              > > >> >> pressed.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be around
              > 1K
              > > > ohms
              > > >> > in
              > > >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in performance.
              > (if
              > > > you
              > > >> > have
              > > >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Hope this helps. :)
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> Wolf
              > > >> >> *wags his tail*
              > > >> >> www.wolftronix. com
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
              > > > Solectria
              > > >> > motor
              > > >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
              > turned
              > > > on
              > > >> > and the
              > > >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the
              battery
              > > >> > charger is
              > > >> >> > on â€" i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek
              information
              > > > about
              > > >> > these
              > > >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
              > > > Solectria.
              > > >> > At
              > > >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
              > > > Everything
              > > >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
              > nothing.
              > > >> >> >
              > > >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria to
              > test
              > > > the
              > > >> >> > controller â€" i.e. the large box with "Solectria" on
              the
              > top
              > > >> > â€" which when
              > > >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is that
              > power
              > > >> > within
              > > >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the cause
              > to
              > > > be
              > > >> > an
              > > >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
              > connector
              > > >> > leading
              > > >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from the
              > one
              > > >> > leading
              > > >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
              > above
              > > > the
              > > >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the two
              > > >> > interlock
              > > >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the
              ignition
              > box
              > > >> > and the
              > > >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
              > > >> >> >
              > > >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone
              have
              > > >> > knowledge
              > > >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
              > suggestion
              > > > as
              > > >> > to
              > > >> >> > how I should proceed?
              > > >> >> >
              > > >> >> >
              > > >> >> >
              > > >> >>
              > > >> >
              > > >> >
              > > >> >
              > > >>
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
            • Bill or Dorothy Swann
              Thanks for asking. It is mentioned on page 20 of this link at Kruspan Thanks,Bill S
              Message 6 of 21 , Apr 5 5:24 PM
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              • 0 Attachment
                Thanks for asking. It is mentioned on page 20 of this link at Kruspan <http://www.kruspan.ch/assets/downloads/Manual_AMC_III_Kruspan_V042005.pdf>

                Thanks,Bill S
                Ph 832-338-3080
                www.hstech.biz
                www.promotingevs.com




                ________________________________
                From: Ray Alden <rmalden_2000@...>
                To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 5:46:30 PM
                Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits


                Thanks, Bill: I take it you mean full pack voltage, is that correct?
                When I made that test -- pins 1 to 14 -- 12v control voltage was
                applied, but I think that I'd pulled the high-voltage connector. I'd
                better do that over again!
                Can you tell me where in the manual you found that "fine print"? I'm
                just learning my way around in that book.
                Ray

                --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Bill or Dorothy Swann
                <dbswann4@.. .> wrote:
                >
                > I read in the fine print in the manual, that the battery voltage needs
                to be applied for a minute before shorting the pins. It worked for me.
                >
                > Thanks,Bill S
                > Ph 832-338-3080
                > www.hstech.biz
                > www.promotingevs. com
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ____________ _________ _________ __
                > From: Ray Alden rmalden_2000@ ...
                > To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
                > Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:37:16 PM
                > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits
                >
                >
                > Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on
                my
                > idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you referred,
                > before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
                > suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
                > My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins 1
                > and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
                > connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to
                do.
                > Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
                > Your help is sure appreciated!
                > Ray
                >
                > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
                > > http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320/ Manual_AMC_ III.pdf :)
                > >
                > >
                > > Wolf
                > > *wags his tail*
                > > www.wolftronix. com
                > >
                > > > By the way . . .
                > > > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics,
                or
                > > > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in the
                > > > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
                > > >
                > > > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
                > > >
                > > > Ray
                > > >
                > > > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                > > >>
                > > >>
                > > >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller. ;)
                > > >>
                > > >> http://en.wikipedia .org/wiki/ Servo_drive
                > > >>
                > > >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or what
                > you
                > > > have
                > > >> been exposed to...
                > > >>
                > > >> In my day job, I make these:
                > > >> http://www.frasca com/web_pages/ brochures/ S92bro.htm
                > > >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
                > > >>
                > > >> Anyway, intresting bit of information. .. So it was all working
                fine
                > > > and
                > > >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work
                anymore...
                > > >>
                > > >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
                > > > batteries?
                > > >>
                > > >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
                > > >>
                > > >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
                > > >>
                > > >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the battery
                > > > stack
                > > >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
                > > >>
                > > >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
                > disasembly
                > > > and
                > > >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new batteries),
                > and
                > > >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
                > inspection
                > > > of
                > > >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
                > > >>
                > > >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that
                good:
                > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240145. jpg
                > > >>
                > > >> Fixed connector:
                > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240147. jpg
                > > >>
                > > >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause
                they
                > > > where
                > > >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
                > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320_ connector
                > > >>
                > > >> Wolf
                > > >> *wags his tail*
                > > >> www.wolftronix. com
                > > >>
                > > >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have, by
                > the
                > > > way,
                > > >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts. I
                > > > didn't
                > > >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy
                replaced
                > the
                > > >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has
                done
                > > > this
                > > >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
                > > > batteries,
                > > >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
                > hasn't
                > > > yet
                > > >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been
                checked
                > > > over,
                > > >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
                > > >> >
                > > >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the word
                > > > "drive"
                > > >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me
                just
                > > > what
                > > >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
                > > >> >
                > > >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power
                to
                > the
                > > >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
                > connectors
                > > >> > visible when I raise the hood?
                > > >> >
                > > >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
                > about,
                > > > and
                > > >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight. I'll
                > try,
                > > > in
                > > >> > the morning.
                > > >> >
                > > >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
                > inside
                > > > the
                > > >> > controller?
                > > >> >
                > > >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a long-retired
                > > >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power equipment
                or
                > > > motor
                > > >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
                > > >> >
                > > >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
                > > >> >
                > > >> > Ray
                > > >> >
                > > >> >
                > > >> > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes
                out
                > > >> > there... :P
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
                > > >> >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/AMC_ Control/
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am investing
                in
                > my
                > > >> > own
                > > >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck to
                > test
                > > >> >> repaired parts. :)
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
                > external
                > > >> > power
                > > >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a volt
                > > > meter
                > > >> > that
                > > >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
                > short
                > > > out
                > > >> > pin
                > > >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk"
                then
                > > > the
                > > >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
                > nothing,
                > > >> > well,
                > > >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector back
                to
                > > > your
                > > >> > car,
                > > >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
                > > >> > interlocks, or
                > > >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Testing the interlocks:
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin
                connector.
                > > > Then
                > > >> > using
                > > >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on
                the
                > 25
                > > >> > pin
                > > >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
                > ohms
                > > >> > (short).
                > > >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
                > infinity
                > > >> > (open).
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
                > neutral
                > > >> > switch.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit,
                when
                > in
                > > >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in forward.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
                > circuit,
                > > > when
                > > >> > in
                > > >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in reverse.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be around
                0
                > > > ohms
                > > >> > when
                > > >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K ohms
                > when
                > > >> > fully
                > > >> >> pressed.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be around
                > 1K
                > > > ohms
                > > >> > in
                > > >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in performance.
                > (if
                > > > you
                > > >> > have
                > > >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Hope this helps. :)
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> Wolf
                > > >> >> *wags his tail*
                > > >> >> www.wolftronix. com
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
                > > > Solectria
                > > >> > motor
                > > >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
                > turned
                > > > on
                > > >> > and the
                > > >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the
                battery
                > > >> > charger is
                > > >> >> > on â€" i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek
                information
                > > > about
                > > >> > these
                > > >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
                > > > Solectria.
                > > >> > At
                > > >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
                > > > Everything
                > > >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
                > nothing.
                > > >> >> >
                > > >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria to
                > test
                > > > the
                > > >> >> > controller â€" i.e. the large box with "Solectria" on
                the
                > top
                > > >> > â€" which when
                > > >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is that
                > power
                > > >> > within
                > > >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the cause
                > to
                > > > be
                > > >> > an
                > > >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
                > connector
                > > >> > leading
                > > >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from the
                > one
                > > >> > leading
                > > >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
                > above
                > > > the
                > > >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the two
                > > >> > interlock
                > > >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the
                ignition
                > box
                > > >> > and the
                > > >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
                > > >> >> >
                > > >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone
                have
                > > >> > knowledge
                > > >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
                > suggestion
                > > > as
                > > >> > to
                > > >> >> > how I should proceed?
                > > >> >> >
                > > >> >> >
                > > >> >> >
                > > >> >>
                > > >> >
                > > >> >
                > > >> >
                > > >>
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Ray Alden
                Problem solved! Many thanks to Wolf, to Bill, and to others who have tried to help. My 98 Solectria, with 38,000 good miles on it, is now as good as new --
                Message 7 of 21 , Apr 6 4:08 PM
                View Source
                • 0 Attachment
                  Problem solved! Many thanks to Wolf, to Bill, and to others who have
                  tried to help. My '98 Solectria, with 38,000 good miles on it, is now
                  as good as new -- starting on its third set of batteries, on its second
                  set of tires, and everything working perfectly!

                  Moments like this can be embarrassing, but confession is good for the
                  soul, or something like that. The cause of the problem was a loose nut!

                  Cables entering the controller pass through fittings that provide a
                  measure of protection and strain relief. The small cable that brings in
                  12v for control purposes, to run the controller, goes through one of
                  these fittings, and just inside the box, the cable connects at a 90
                  degree angle to a plug. The nut on the strain relief was evidently not
                  tight enough to grip the cable firmly when we moved the controller out
                  of the way to replace the battery pack. When we took the back off the
                  controller, the plug had been dislodged from its socket enough to
                  interrupt battery to the controller. We put the plug back in, tightened
                  the nut securely, and all was fixed.

                  You all might want to check those strain relief nuts!

                  Then all we had to do was reassemble everything we had taken out
                  searching for a more sophisticated answer to the problem.

                  Peace to all, and thanks again.
                  Ray

                  --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Bill or Dorothy Swann
                  <dbswann4@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Thanks for asking. It is mentioned on page 20 of this link at Kruspan
                  <http://www.kruspan.ch/assets/downloads/Manual_AMC_III_Kruspan_V042005.p\
                  df>
                  >
                  > Thanks,Bill S
                  > Ph 832-338-3080
                  > www.hstech.biz
                  > www.promotingevs.com
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: Ray Alden rmalden_2000@...
                  > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 5:46:30 PM
                  > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits
                  >
                  >
                  > Thanks, Bill: I take it you mean full pack voltage, is that correct?
                  > When I made that test -- pins 1 to 14 -- 12v control voltage was
                  > applied, but I think that I'd pulled the high-voltage connector. I'd
                  > better do that over again!
                  > Can you tell me where in the manual you found that "fine print"? I'm
                  > just learning my way around in that book.
                  > Ray
                  >
                  > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Bill or Dorothy Swann
                  > dbswann4@ .> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > I read in the fine print in the manual, that the battery voltage
                  needs
                  > to be applied for a minute before shorting the pins. It worked for me.
                  > >
                  > > Thanks,Bill S
                  > > Ph 832-338-3080
                  > > www.hstech.biz
                  > > www.promotingevs. com
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > ____________ _________ _________ __
                  > > From: Ray Alden rmalden_2000@ ...
                  > > To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
                  > > Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:37:16 PM
                  > > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Interlock circuits
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Wolf: Travel and a broken computer interrupted my repair efforts on
                  > my
                  > > idle Solectria. I did download the user manual to which you
                  referred,
                  > > before leaving on a trip. Now I've run the first test that you
                  > > suggested -- shorted pins 1 and 14 -- no "thunk" observed.
                  > > My plan is to open the case and check that 12v and ground, and pins
                  1
                  > > and 14, are actually connected to the "drive" -- i.e. check that the
                  > > connector is okay on those pins. Beyond that, I don't know what to
                  > do.
                  > > Have you a suggestion beyond that first test?
                  > > Your help is sure appreciated!
                  > > Ray
                  > >
                  > > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > All my info came from page 25 in the user manual:
                  > > > http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320/ Manual_AMC_ III.pdf :)
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > Wolf
                  > > > *wags his tail*
                  > > > www.wolftronix. com
                  > > >
                  > > > > By the way . . .
                  > > > > Your recommendations suggest that you have drawings, schematics,
                  > or
                  > > > > something that we don't have. E.g. You know which terminal in
                  the
                  > > > > 25-terminal connector is used for what purpose.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Is there information here that you might be willing to share?
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Ray
                  > > > >
                  > > > > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Yeah, when I say "Drive" I mean the AMC 325 Motor Controller.
                  ;)
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> http://en.wikipedia .org/wiki/ Servo_drive
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> The terminology is different depending on where you work, or
                  what
                  > > you
                  > > > > have
                  > > > >> been exposed to...
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> In my day job, I make these:
                  > > > >> http://www.frasca com/web_pages/ brochures/ S92bro.htm
                  > > > >> And we call the motor controllers "drives". :)
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Anyway, intresting bit of information. .. So it was all working
                  > fine
                  > > > > and
                  > > > >> then he replaced the batteries and now it does not work
                  > anymore...
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Did it work for a little bit and then die after replacing the
                  > > > > batteries?
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Or did it not work at all after replacing them?
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Do you have head lights? Radio? Etc...?
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Also, check to make sure there is not a short between the
                  battery
                  > > > > stack
                  > > > >> positive or negative terminal to chasis ground (vehicle frame).
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> If everything else is good, then I would guess that during
                  > > disasembly
                  > > > > and
                  > > > >> removal of the batteries (or installation of the new
                  batteries),
                  > > and
                  > > > >> important wire broke in a connector... I would do a visual
                  > > inspection
                  > > > > of
                  > > > >> all the connectors that where removed and plugged back in.
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Solectria wiring, especially there crimped wires are not that
                  > good:
                  > > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240145. jpg
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Fixed connector:
                  > > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/E10/ images/P5240147. jpg
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> I also recently replaced all the connectors on my truck, cause
                  > they
                  > > > > where
                  > > > >> all rusted and intermittantly working:
                  > > > >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/amc320_ connector
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> Wolf
                  > > > >> *wags his tail*
                  > > > >> www.wolftronix. com
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >> > Thank you, Wolf! Much here for us to check out. We have,
                  by
                  > > the
                  > > > > way,
                  > > > >> > checked that stack power is right up there around 165 volts.
                  I
                  > > > > didn't
                  > > > >> > mention this in my initial explanation, but my tech guy
                  > replaced
                  > > the
                  > > > >> > battery stack in kind the day the problem appeared. He has
                  > done
                  > > > > this
                  > > > >> > about 15 times before -- once for me, in 2003. With the old
                  > > > > batteries,
                  > > > >> > the car ran fine -- just not very far! With the new ones, it
                  > > hasn't
                  > > > > yet
                  > > > >> > moved under its own power. All the work he did has been
                  > checked
                  > > > > over,
                  > > > >> > and over, and over again. Stack power and fuses are good!
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > Just to be sure I understand the instructions, you use the
                  word
                  > > > > "drive"
                  > > > >> > in several places, and in some of them it isn't clear to me
                  > just
                  > > > > what
                  > > > >> > you mean. Let's see if I can find an example:
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > "First unplug main power from the drive" Is that the power
                  > to
                  > > the
                  > > > >> > controller? The 240v ac to the whole car? Or one of the
                  > > connectors
                  > > > >> > visible when I raise the hood?
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > I expect he will know what 25-pin connector you are speaking
                  > > about,
                  > > > > and
                  > > > >> > I may be able to figure that out myself, in the daylight.
                  I'll
                  > > try,
                  > > > > in
                  > > > >> > the morning.
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > "something is bad inside the drive" -- again, does that mean
                  > > inside
                  > > > > the
                  > > > >> > controller?
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > Sorry to be so dumb about the terminology. I'm a
                  long-retired
                  > > > >> > electronics engineer, but I've never worked on power
                  equipment
                  > or
                  > > > > motor
                  > > > >> > controllers -- just radios and such. <g>
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > I sure do appreciate your help!
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > Ray
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Wolf" wolf@ wrote:
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Totaly not fair... I did not know there where control boxes
                  > out
                  > > > >> > there... :P
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> I am building my own AMC control box:
                  > > > >> >> http://www.wolftron ix.com/AMC_ Control/
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Still need to finish wiring it.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Also, I put my RS422 to RS232 adapter in the box too. ;)
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> I now have 1 motor and 3 AMC drives to fix, so I am
                  investing
                  > in
                  > > my
                  > > > >> > own
                  > > > >> >> test equipment, much better then taking parts off my truck
                  to
                  > > test
                  > > > >> >> repaired parts. :)
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Anyway... To get the drive to come on, you don't need any
                  > > external
                  > > > >> > power
                  > > > >> >> supplies other then the main battery power.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> First unplug main power from the drive and measure with a
                  volt
                  > > > > meter
                  > > > >> > that
                  > > > >> >> you have stack voltage present and your fuse is not blown.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> If stack power is good, then unplug the 25-pin connector and
                  > > short
                  > > > > out
                  > > > >> > pin
                  > > > >> >> 1 to pin 14 (on the controller side), if you hear a "thunk"
                  > then
                  > > > > the
                  > > > >> >> standby and main power supply are working... if you hear
                  > > nothing,
                  > > > >> > well,
                  > > > >> >> then something is bad inside the drive.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> If you get the "thunk" then connect the 25-pin connector
                  back
                  > to
                  > > > > your
                  > > > >> > car,
                  > > > >> >> turn on the key switch and see if you hear the same "thunk".
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> If not then its a problem in the ignition box in your car.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> If you do get the "thunk", then the problem might be in the
                  > > > >> > interlocks, or
                  > > > >> >> the power setting signal, or the throttle signal...
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Testing the interlocks:
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> First, turn off the key switch and unplug the 25 pin
                  > connector.
                  > > > > Then
                  > > > >> > using
                  > > > >> >> an ohm meter measure the resistance between pins 1 and 11 on
                  > the
                  > > 25
                  > > > >> > pin
                  > > > >> >> connector (vehicle side, not the motor controller side).
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> With the battery charger plugged in, it should read around 0
                  > > ohms
                  > > > >> > (short).
                  > > > >> >> With the battery charger un-plugged, it should read around
                  > > infinity
                  > > > >> > (open).
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the forward / reverse /
                  > > neutral
                  > > > >> > switch.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 3, it should be an open circuit,
                  > when
                  > > in
                  > > > >> >> neutral or reverse. It should only be shorted when in
                  forward.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Next measure between pins 1 and 16, it should be an open
                  > > circuit,
                  > > > > when
                  > > > >> > in
                  > > > >> >> neutral or forward. It should only be shorted when in
                  reverse.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the throttle signal.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 26, the resistance should be
                  around
                  > 0
                  > > > > ohms
                  > > > >> > when
                  > > > >> >> the throttle is not pressed, and vary all the way to 10K
                  ohms
                  > > when
                  > > > >> > fully
                  > > > >> >> pressed.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Assuming that it worked, next check the power setting.
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Measure between pins 1 and 18, the resistance should be
                  around
                  > > 1K
                  > > > > ohms
                  > > > >> > in
                  > > > >> >> economy, 5K ohms in normal, and 10K ohms when in
                  performance.
                  > > (if
                  > > > > you
                  > > > >> > have
                  > > > >> >> a power setting pot, then it will vary from 0 to 10K ohms).
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Hope this helps. :)
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> Wolf
                  > > > >> >> *wags his tail*
                  > > > >> >> www.wolftronix. com
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >> > My need: There are two safety interlock circuits in the
                  > > > > Solectria
                  > > > >> > motor
                  > > > >> >> > control system that prevent activation: 1) when power is
                  > > turned
                  > > > > on
                  > > > >> > and the
                  > > > >> >> > direction control is not in neutral, and, 2) when the
                  > battery
                  > > > >> > charger is
                  > > > >> >> > on â€" i.e. when the car is plugged in. I seek
                  > information
                  > > > > about
                  > > > >> > these
                  > > > >> >> > interlocks, one of which appears to be locked "on" in my
                  > > > > Solectria.
                  > > > >> > At
                  > > > >> >> > least that is an explanation for the observed symptoms.
                  > > > > Everything
                  > > > >> >> > appears normal except that pressing the accelerator does
                  > > nothing.
                  > > > >> >> >
                  > > > >> >> > My technical advisor has an instrument made by Solectria
                  to
                  > > test
                  > > > > the
                  > > > >> >> > controller â€" i.e. the large box with "Solectria"
                  on
                  > the
                  > > top
                  > > > >> > â€" which when
                  > > > >> >> > connected shows nothing at all. His interpretation is
                  that
                  > > power
                  > > > >> > within
                  > > > >> >> > the controller has been interrupted, and we assume the
                  cause
                  > > to
                  > > > > be
                  > > > >> > an
                  > > > >> >> > interlock circuit. We know that 12v is present at the
                  > > connector
                  > > > >> > leading
                  > > > >> >> > to the controller, but that is in a separate cable from
                  the
                  > > one
                  > > > >> > leading
                  > > > >> >> > from the "Ignition" box located under the dashboard, just
                  > > above
                  > > > > the
                  > > > >> >> > steering column. He has a block diagram that shows the
                  two
                  > > > >> > interlock
                  > > > >> >> > circuits to be associated with the cable between the
                  > ignition
                  > > box
                  > > > >> > and the
                  > > > >> >> > controller, but it gives not a clue as to how they work.
                  > > > >> >> >
                  > > > >> >> > Has anyone had and solved a similar problem? Does anyone
                  > have
                  > > > >> > knowledge
                  > > > >> >> > of just how those interlocks work? Does anyone have a
                  > > suggestion
                  > > > > as
                  > > > >> > to
                  > > > >> >> > how I should proceed?
                  > > > >> >> >
                  > > > >> >> >
                  > > > >> >> >
                  > > > >> >>
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >> >
                  > > > >>
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  > >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
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