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Throttle cable repair notes

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  • Todd Martin
    My 97 Force is back on the road after the throttle cable broke. After trying a 20 gauge galvanized cable from Ace Hardware (which lasted about a week before
    Message 1 of 7 , Apr 20, 2008
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      My '97 Force is back on the road after the throttle cable broke. After
      trying a 20 gauge galvanized cable from Ace Hardware (which lasted
      about a week before snapping), I tried a larger 3/32" diameter cable
      and replaced the tubing leading from the pot box to the accelerator
      cable. This didn't really work at all since the larger cable provided
      too much resistance for the spring to return the pot box arm.

      In the end, the best solution was a bicycle brake cable, purchased from
      a bike shop for $3.00. It was the perfect diameter for the original
      tubing, very strong and properly flexible. Best yet, the bike shop
      crimped on a stop at one end which fit the notch in the accelerator
      pedal.

      Todd Martin
    • Peter Fletcher
      So living in Reno. It has been warming up a bit and I have been test driving my Rebuit 93 Force. Things are fine today even at 52 degress but it seems when the
      Message 2 of 7 , Apr 21, 2008
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        So living in Reno. It has been warming up a bit and I have been test driving my Rebuit 93 Force.
        Things are fine today even at 52 degress but it seems when the temp is near 32 there is something
        a miss with the contoller giving the correct signals to te motor. Now I have a Pemanent Magnet motor
        with regen. and the Controller was rebuilt with IGBT's in place of the old Mos Fets. So If I start out in the cold
        the car might go a couple feet then Learch to a stop. An EV friend suggested that I spray contact cleaner
        in the pot box and I have but it still didn't help it the other day. Other wise I have to really clean out my
        garrage and what put a little heat blanket around the controller in the winter. Or my force was just ment to live in Vagas
        LA or somewhere warm. Anyhow has anyone had problems with cold starts. Fletch 93





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      • Gerard (Gary) Carlson
        Peter: I have a 1992 Solectria Force with a Brusa AMC320 controller and a 3 phase induction motor.? Here in Boise I have driven in freezing weather without
        Message 3 of 7 , Apr 22, 2008
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          Peter:

          I have a 1992 Solectria Force with a Brusa AMC320 controller and a 3 phase induction motor.? Here in Boise I have driven in freezing weather without problems.

          Sincerely,

          Gary?Carlson
          ID License:? AMPEATR
          gjc0@...


          -----Original Message-----
          From: Peter Fletcher <fletchfilms@...>
          To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 11:41 pm
          Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] Jerking Throttle when cold around 30degrees any one else, have problem







          So living in Reno. It has been warming up a bit and I have been test driving my Rebuit 93 Force.
          Things are fine today even at 52 degress but it seems when the temp is near 32 there is something
          a miss with the contoller giving the correct signals to te motor. Now I have a Pemanent Magnet motor
          with regen. and the Controller was rebuilt with IGBT's in place of the old Mos Fets. So If I start out in the cold
          the car might go a couple feet then Learch to a stop. An EV friend suggested that I spray contact cleaner
          in the pot box and I have but it still didn't help it the other day. Other wise I have to really clean out my
          garrage and what put a little heat blanket around the controller in the winter. Or my force was just ment to live in Vagas
          LA or somewhere warm. Anyhow has anyone had problems with cold starts. Fletch 93

          __________________________________________________________
          Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic.
          http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653A




          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • ldr214
          Peter reading you post a couple of thoughts come to mind. Are you able to monitor the pack volts and amps during this lurch stop ? That might tell you if the
          Message 4 of 7 , Apr 22, 2008
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            Peter reading you post a couple of thoughts come to mind.

            Are you able to monitor the pack volts and amps during this "lurch stop"?

            That might tell you if the controller is trying and the motor not
            responding or a lack of effort on the controllers part or even an
            inability of the battery pack to perform in cold weather, assuming you
            don't have heaters.

            If you heat it in the garage and then take it out in the cold without
            solving the underlying problem how long before it cools off and stops?

            Mike Rydjord
            97 Force

            --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Peter Fletcher <fletchfilms@...>
            wrote:
            >
            >
            > So living in Reno. It has been warming up a bit and I have been test
            driving my Rebuit 93 Force.
            > Things are fine today even at 52 degress but it seems when the temp
            is near 32 there is something
            > a miss with the contoller giving the correct signals to te motor.
            Now I have a Pemanent Magnet motor
            > with regen. and the Controller was rebuilt with IGBT's in place of
            the old Mos Fets. So If I start out in the cold
            > the car might go a couple feet then Learch to a stop. An EV friend
            suggested that I spray contact cleaner
            > in the pot box and I have but it still didn't help it the other day.
            Other wise I have to really clean out my
            > garrage and what put a little heat blanket around the controller in
            the winter. Or my force was just ment to live in Vagas
            > LA or somewhere warm. Anyhow has anyone had problems with cold
            starts. Fletch 93
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > _________________________________________________________________
            > Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic.
            >
            http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653A
            >
          • Peter Fletcher
            those are some really good ideas. I had a friend who is a Electrical whiz help me do the rebuild on this car. and I remenber we put some sort of sensor device
            Message 5 of 7 , Apr 22, 2008
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              those are some really good ideas.
              I had a friend who is a Electrical whiz help me do the rebuild on this car.
              and I remenber we put some sort of sensor device around the some main wires, that I think measured
              Peak voltage. I do not have a volt Metor. and frankly my pack is a free used pack that cold be droping out in the cold,
              What ever that might be. thanks again - I'll make the sugestions to my Machanic. fletch




              ________________________________






              Peter reading you post a couple of thoughts come to mind.

              Are you able to monitor the pack volts and amps during this "lurch stop"?

              That might tell you if the controller is trying and the motor not
              responding or a lack of effort on the controllers part or even an
              inability of the battery pack to perform in cold weather, assuming you
              don't have heaters.

              If you heat it in the garage and then take it out in the cold without
              solving the underlying problem how long before it cools off and stops?

              Mike Rydjord
              97 Force

              --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Peter Fletcher
              wrote:
              >
              >
              > So living in Reno. It has been warming up a bit and I have been test
              driving my Rebuit 93 Force.
              > Things are fine today even at 52 degress but it seems when the temp
              is near 32 there is something
              > a miss with the contoller giving the correct signals to te motor.
              Now I have a Pemanent Magnet motor
              > with regen. and the Controller was rebuilt with IGBT's in place of
              the old Mos Fets. So If I start out in the cold
              > the car might go a couple feet then Learch to a stop. An EV friend
              suggested that I spray contact cleaner
              > in the pot box and I have but it still didn't help it the other day.
              Other wise I have to really clean out my
              > garrage and what put a little heat blanket around the controller in
              the winter. Or my force was just ment to live in Vagas
              > LA or somewhere warm. Anyhow has anyone had problems with cold
              starts. Fletch 93
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > __________________________________________________________
              > Going green? See the top 12 foods to eat organic.
              >
              http://green.msn.com/galleries/photos/photos.aspx?gid=164&ocid=T003MSN51N1653A
              >









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            • Noel P. Luneau
              That s awesome Todd. Thanks for sharing! Noel L From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Todd Martin Sent:
              Message 6 of 7 , May 2, 2008
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                That's awesome Todd. Thanks for sharing!



                Noel L



                From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com]
                On Behalf Of Todd Martin
                Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 2:46 PM
                To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [solectria_ev] Throttle cable repair notes



                My '97 Force is back on the road after the throttle cable broke. After
                trying a 20 gauge galvanized cable from Ace Hardware (which lasted
                about a week before snapping), I tried a larger 3/32" diameter cable
                and replaced the tubing leading from the pot box to the accelerator
                cable. This didn't really work at all since the larger cable provided
                too much resistance for the spring to return the pot box arm.

                In the end, the best solution was a bicycle brake cable, purchased from
                a bike shop for $3.00. It was the perfect diameter for the original
                tubing, very strong and properly flexible. Best yet, the bike shop
                crimped on a stop at one end which fit the notch in the accelerator
                pedal.

                Todd Martin







                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Lynn Long
                Bicycle cable, wow nice. Lynn Noel P. Luneau wrote: That s awesome Todd. Thanks for sharing! Noel L From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Message 7 of 7 , May 2, 2008
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                  Bicycle cable, wow
                  nice.
                  Lynn
                  "Noel P. Luneau" <nluneau@...> wrote:
                  That's awesome Todd. Thanks for sharing!

                  Noel L

                  From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com]
                  On Behalf Of Todd Martin
                  Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 2:46 PM
                  To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [solectria_ev] Throttle cable repair notes

                  My '97 Force is back on the road after the throttle cable broke. After
                  trying a 20 gauge galvanized cable from Ace Hardware (which lasted
                  about a week before snapping), I tried a larger 3/32" diameter cable
                  and replaced the tubing leading from the pot box to the accelerator
                  cable. This didn't really work at all since the larger cable provided
                  too much resistance for the spring to return the pot box arm.

                  In the end, the best solution was a bicycle brake cable, purchased from
                  a bike shop for $3.00. It was the perfect diameter for the original
                  tubing, very strong and properly flexible. Best yet, the bike shop
                  crimped on a stop at one end which fit the notch in the accelerator
                  pedal.

                  Todd Martin

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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