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Re: [solectria_ev] Re: Zivan Charger hookup.

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  • Dorothy Swann
    I was going to send the unit to ZivanUSA for the profile change. Is it a chip or a PC board that gets changed? If I can save a few $, I may do it my self. I
    Message 1 of 8 , May 8, 2007
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      I was going to send the unit to ZivanUSA for the profile change. Is it a chip or a PC board that gets changed? If I can save a few $, I may do it my self. I was going to have them do a functional check, given that the charger is used. What do you think?
      My old charger has a smoked capacitor board. Seems like a common occurance. And, actually, the 30 amp fused lead was not even connected. A good deduction on my part to assume there was a problem when I did not sense 156 volts at the charge connector to the batteries. Having opened the high voltage box in back of the AC unit, I am beginning to understand what is going on electrically. I saw the shunt for AH meter. And all of the fused lines to AC,AH,... I have balanced the batteries-actually a 12 volt charge on the front 5 and a 12 volt charge on the rear 8. I should probably do a 12 volt charge on 13 batts all at once.

      I intend to learn a little bit more about the electric circuits. I definitely do not want to smoke the Zivan like I did a 12 volt charger. I was careless, and managed to get 36 volts on the charger leads. OOPs. Bad day.

      Bill S
      ----- Original Message ----
      From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
      To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 6:17:06 PM
      Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Zivan Charger hookup.

      Bill,
      The Zivan swap is pretty easy if you are buying a new one and it has
      the right color anderson on it and is 220v.

      But you are getting a 120V and a previously used one so you need to
      make sure it is profiled for your battery pack voltage and chemisty
      (156V gel?) anything else could result in bad things happening. You
      may have to change the connector to the battery pack also. I would
      change the one in the charger. You'll also be dealing with getting the
      120v ac into the trunk.

      If you need to change profile & battery charging voltage contact Greg
      at El Con and you can either ship him the unit and or if you feel
      confident you can change the profile program chip yourself. (If he
      will mail you one? I picked it up from him directly.) I've done that
      and if you have worked with any computer boards you'll find it easy.

      If the unit doesn't have a temp probe you should also consider getting
      one and putting it in the rear battery box. The ones used by the
      Solectria charger won't work for this application.

      If you take out the old charger the zivan fits in that spot, just
      don't block the air flow.

      Did the lose 30Amp fuse connection get your charger working again?
      Sounds like no.

      You want your batteries in balance before you start charging them as a
      pack.

      The "stuff" from the brusa charger is all surplus to the cars
      operation but is needed by the brusa charger so I would just keep
      them together. Unplug the 2 temp plugs and the pack connector and
      anything else going to the charger.

      This will include the charger interrupt that goes to the controller to
      keep you from driving while the power cord is powered. Zivan NG3 will
      support this function but I don't have it hooked up on mine. It never
      keeps you from driving with a unpowered power cord plugged in so I
      don't consider it all that useful.

      The fan in the rear battery box is powered and switched independently
      of the brusa charger but the connector is under the charger on my 97
      so don't disconnect it by accident.

      Could be some differences on your car. Hope it all goes well.

      Mike
      97 pb

      BTW a 120 volt NG3 charger is going to be painfully slow as a regular
      full time charger.

      --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Bill Swann" <dbswann4@.. .> wrote:
      >
      > I should be recieving a Zivan charger in a week. Does anyone have any
      > words of wisdom regarding hooking it up. Questions: 1). Is it just a
      > matter of connecting +/+ and -/-? 2). Should I try to charge and
      > equalize the individual battery charge voltages? 3). What about the
      > rear battery box cooling fans? Were they controlled by the Brusa? 4).
      > There is an 18 pin connector that connected to the old Brusa charger.
      > What should I do about that functionality. It is easier to ask
      > questions than to decipher the manual.
      > Thanks, Bill S
      >




      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • ldr214
      I recommend that you take the zivan when you get it and get on the phone with Greg at Zivan USA and see what he recommends. Some of it is pretty easy but I
      Message 2 of 8 , May 9, 2007
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        I recommend that you take the zivan when you get it and get on the
        phone with Greg at Zivan USA and see what he recommends. Some of it is
        pretty easy but I don't know for sure what needs to be changed if it
        is a large voltage change up or down. It may not be all dip switches
        and the program chip. There could be some unknown variables depending
        upon the configuration.

        Mike


        --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Dorothy Swann <dbswann4@...> wrote:
        >
        > I was going to send the unit to ZivanUSA for the profile change. Is
        it a chip or a PC board that gets changed? If I can save a few $, I
        may do it my self. I was going to have them do a functional check,
        given that the charger is used. What do you think?
        > My old charger has a smoked capacitor board. Seems like a common
        occurance. And, actually, the 30 amp fused lead was not even
        connected. A good deduction on my part to assume there was a problem
        when I did not sense 156 volts at the charge connector to the
        batteries. Having opened the high voltage box in back of the AC unit,
        I am beginning to understand what is going on electrically. I saw the
        shunt for AH meter. And all of the fused lines to AC,AH,... I have
        balanced the batteries-actually a 12 volt charge on the front 5 and a
        12 volt charge on the rear 8. I should probably do a 12 volt charge on
        13 batts all at once.
        >
        > I intend to learn a little bit more about the electric circuits. I
        definitely do not want to smoke the Zivan like I did a 12 volt
        charger. I was careless, and managed to get 36 volts on the charger
        leads. OOPs. Bad day.
        >
        > Bill S
        > ----- Original Message ----
        > From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
        > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 6:17:06 PM
        > Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Zivan Charger hookup.
        >
        > Bill,
        > The Zivan swap is pretty easy if you are buying a new one and it has
        > the right color anderson on it and is 220v.
        >
        > But you are getting a 120V and a previously used one so you need to
        > make sure it is profiled for your battery pack voltage and chemisty
        > (156V gel?) anything else could result in bad things happening. You
        > may have to change the connector to the battery pack also. I would
        > change the one in the charger. You'll also be dealing with getting the
        > 120v ac into the trunk.
        >
        > If you need to change profile & battery charging voltage contact Greg
        > at El Con and you can either ship him the unit and or if you feel
        > confident you can change the profile program chip yourself. (If he
        > will mail you one? I picked it up from him directly.) I've done that
        > and if you have worked with any computer boards you'll find it easy.
        >
        > If the unit doesn't have a temp probe you should also consider getting
        > one and putting it in the rear battery box. The ones used by the
        > Solectria charger won't work for this application.
        >
        > If you take out the old charger the zivan fits in that spot, just
        > don't block the air flow.
        >
        > Did the lose 30Amp fuse connection get your charger working again?
        > Sounds like no.
        >
        > You want your batteries in balance before you start charging them as a
        > pack.
        >
        > The "stuff" from the brusa charger is all surplus to the cars
        > operation but is needed by the brusa charger so I would just keep
        > them together. Unplug the 2 temp plugs and the pack connector and
        > anything else going to the charger.
        >
        > This will include the charger interrupt that goes to the controller to
        > keep you from driving while the power cord is powered. Zivan NG3 will
        > support this function but I don't have it hooked up on mine. It never
        > keeps you from driving with a unpowered power cord plugged in so I
        > don't consider it all that useful.
        >
        > The fan in the rear battery box is powered and switched independently
        > of the brusa charger but the connector is under the charger on my 97
        > so don't disconnect it by accident.
        >
        > Could be some differences on your car. Hope it all goes well.
        >
        > Mike
        > 97 pb
        >
        > BTW a 120 volt NG3 charger is going to be painfully slow as a regular
        > full time charger.
        >
        > --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, "Bill Swann" <dbswann4@ .> wrote:
        > >
        > > I should be recieving a Zivan charger in a week. Does anyone have any
        > > words of wisdom regarding hooking it up. Questions: 1). Is it just a
        > > matter of connecting +/+ and -/-? 2). Should I try to charge and
        > > equalize the individual battery charge voltages? 3). What about the
        > > rear battery box cooling fans? Were they controlled by the Brusa? 4).
        > > There is an 18 pin connector that connected to the old Brusa charger.
        > > What should I do about that functionality. It is easier to ask
        > > questions than to decipher the manual.
        > > Thanks, Bill S
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
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