- View SourceJust a note to give a "heads-up" for a potential problem in the Force
I've had two occurrences where a T-tap has quit working. These taps
are crimp-on devices that provide a Faston connection to an existing
wire. The modifications to the Metro required a number of these taps
on the wiring under the dashboard. If the tap doesn't make good
connection, something quits working or becomes flaky. I just
finished fixing my latest problem -- regeneration was not turning on
the brake lights. I chased this down to one of the T-taps deep under
I only know of two ways to fix such a problem. One way is to scrape
some insulation off the original (Metro) wire on one side of the tap
(which is unremovable). Then, cut off the new wire at its Faston and
solder it onto the stripped section of the Metro wire. The other
method is to cut the tap clear out and solder all three wires
together. In either case, it's a tough job because of the location
inside the dash and because the wires have very little slack. As a
final step, coat the bare joint with silicone rubber so that it can't
short out to anything else.
The Maintenance Manual was a great help with its schematics and
connector drawings. Follow the manual's detailed instructions for
disassembly of the dashboard. I also removed the driver's seat
before I started on the dash.
I think the taps failed because they were designed for larger wire
than my Metro uses.
Next time, I'll hire a radio announcer to do the work, because
everybody knows that radio announcers have small hands:
"Wee paws for station identification..."
- View SourceOn Thu, 6 Jul 2006, Gordon Stallings wrote:
> Next time, I'll hire a radio announcer to do the work, becauseHaving worked in radio for 27 years, but on the technical side, I cringe
> everybody knows that radio announcers have small hands:
> "Wee paws for station identification..."
at the thought of letting an announcer anywhere near the guts of anything
Chief Engineer, Charles River Broadcasting Company