Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: battery chargers and dc dc converters

Expand Messages
  • Mike Phillips
    Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that puts out around
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 10 9:09 AM
    View Source
    • 0 Attachment
      Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out
      only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that
      puts out around 13.8v.

      Mike


      --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, gjc0@... wrote:
      >
      > Jeremy:
      >
      > I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself,
      have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some
      ideas on the process.
      >
      > 1.
      > For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
      > a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery. (Most use
      DC-DC converters)
      > b) use a battery, no converter. (Works well, but adds weight and
      another charger)
      > c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
      > batteries. (NO! This will adversly affect battery string equalization)
      >
      > 2.
      > For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
      > recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
      > Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?
      > My car uses a Zivan NG3. It runs and 240 volts, is configured to
      charge my 12 gel cells.
      > It works well. Unless you a talented in kilowatt switching power
      supply design AND embedded micro processors. DO NOT use a home brew
      charger. Battery life is greatly affected by charging and
      discharging. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most forgiving, but
      the exotic batteries, starting with gel cells require better charging
      systems.
      >
      > I have been offered:
      > $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
      > (A good price if it works. Check the web suppliers like
      electroautomotive for comparisons)
      > $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
      > 288V max) A good price if it works. Check what type and voltage
      batteries it is programmed for. Is is 120V or 240 Volt? I am looking
      to buy a 120 volt and get it reprogrammed for my car. Let me know, if
      you do not plan to buy it. I might.
      >
      > Sincerely,
      > Gary Carlson
      >
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Jeremy Rutman <jeremy_spagnet@...>
      > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:08:03 -0000
      > Subject: [solectria_ev] battery chargers and dc dc converters
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • Terry Merrell
      Take a look at the E10 forum. There is a thread on how to up the voltage on the Solectria DC/DC converters. http://portev.org/forum/index.php Terry
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 10 10:06 AM
      View Source
      • 0 Attachment
        Take a look at the E10 forum. There is a thread on how to up the voltage on
        the Solectria DC/DC converters.

        http://portev.org/forum/index.php


        Terry


        > Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out
        > only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that
        > puts out around 13.8v.
        >
        > Mike
        >
        >
        > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, gjc0@... wrote:
        >>
        >> Jeremy:
        >>
        >> I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself,
        > have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some
        > ideas on the process.
        >>
        >> 1.
        >> For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
        >> a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery. (Most use
        > DC-DC converters)
        >> b) use a battery, no converter. (Works well, but adds weight and
        > another charger)
        >> c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
        >> batteries. (NO! This will adversly affect battery string equalization)
        >>
        >> 2.
        >> For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
        >> recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
        >> Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?
        >> My car uses a Zivan NG3. It runs and 240 volts, is configured to
        > charge my 12 gel cells.
        >> It works well. Unless you a talented in kilowatt switching power
        > supply design AND embedded micro processors. DO NOT use a home brew
        > charger. Battery life is greatly affected by charging and
        > discharging. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most forgiving, but
        > the exotic batteries, starting with gel cells require better charging
        > systems.
        >>
        >> I have been offered:
        >> $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
        >> (A good price if it works. Check the web suppliers like
        > electroautomotive for comparisons)
        >> $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
        >> 288V max) A good price if it works. Check what type and voltage
        > batteries it is programmed for. Is is 120V or 240 Volt? I am looking
        > to buy a 120 volt and get it reprogrammed for my car. Let me know, if
        > you do not plan to buy it. I might.
        >>
        >> Sincerely,
        >> Gary Carlson
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >> -----Original Message-----
        >> From: Jeremy Rutman <jeremy_spagnet@...>
        >> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        >> Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:08:03 -0000
        >> Subject: [solectria_ev] battery chargers and dc dc converters
        >>
        >>
        >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >>
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
      • Stephen Taylor
        My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken
        Message 3 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
        View Source
        • 0 Attachment
          My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

          Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

          Stephen Taylor



          ---------------------------------
          Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football ’06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Terry Merrell
          Stephen, Please let me know your findings. I am having a similar problem with my 276 volt unit. I purchased a used DC30-500 and can only find a few differences
          Message 4 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
          View Source
          • 0 Attachment
            Stephen,

            Please let me know your findings. I am having a similar problem with my 276
            volt unit. I purchased a used DC30-500 and can only find a few differences
            in it. I hope to use it in place of the dead one, but fear something else
            may have caused the first one to die.

            I realize this is of no help to you now, bu there was a brand new 144 volt
            unit on ebay last week. It closed at $66. I planned to bid, but arrived home
            too late.

            Terry Merrell



            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "Stephen Taylor" <sparrow262@...>
            To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 6:05 PM
            Subject: [solectria_ev] Air Conditioning Controller


            My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known
            working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried
            the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

            Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned
            that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and
            I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

            Stephen Taylor



            ---------------------------------
            Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football '06 - Go with the leader. Start your league
            today!

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





            Yahoo! Groups Links
          • Stephen Taylor
            I saw the eBay one, but wasn t sure the 144 volt Air Conditioning controller would work in the 156 volt car and as you say the auction is over and I just found
            Message 5 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
            View Source
            • 0 Attachment
              I saw the eBay one, but wasn't sure the 144 volt Air Conditioning controller would work in the 156 volt car and as you say the auction is over and I just found the problem a few hours ago.

              Stephen Taylor


              .





              ---------------------------------
              Yahoo! Groups gets better. Check out the new email design. Plus there’s much more to come.

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Dan Wentworth
              I just repaired my DC30-156 controller in my Force. These are pretty simple PWM controllers using a UCC2570 and two paralleled output MOSFETs. I was lucky in
              Message 6 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
              View Source
              • 0 Attachment
                I just repaired my DC30-156 controller in my Force. These are pretty simple PWM controllers using a UCC2570 and two paralleled output MOSFETs. I was lucky in that my problem was only the output 0.47uF 250V film cap that was open circuit (bulged). The symptom was no starting under load but running relatively slowly after hand spinning without the belt.
                I called Azure and they want $800 for a replacement controller. They would not provide the schematic or any other repair info.

                Dan

                ----- Original Message ----
                From: Stephen Taylor <sparrow262@...>
                To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:05:02 PM
                Subject: [solectria_ev] Air Conditioning Controller


                My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

                Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

                Stephen Taylor



                ------------ --------- --------- ---
                Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football 06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • sparrow262
                Well I think I found the cause of the death of my DC30-156. Eventhough the motor was working with another controller in the dead ones place, I decided that I
                Message 7 of 9 , Jun 22, 2006
                View Source
                • 0 Attachment
                  Well I think I found the cause of the death of my DC30-156. Eventhough
                  the motor was working with another controller in the dead ones place, I
                  decided that I needed to have the motor checked out to be safe. The
                  motor repair shop found that two of the brushes had burned out which
                  must have caused a motor current overload and thus the death of the
                  DC30.
                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.