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battery chargers and dc dc converters

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  • Jeremy Rutman
    I am planning an EV conversion now and have some questions: 1. For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 5 12:08 PM
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      I am planning an EV conversion now and have some questions:

      1.
      For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
      a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery
      b) use a battery, no converter
      c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
      batteries

      2.
      For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
      recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
      Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?

      I have been offered:
      $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
      $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
      288V max)

      Good prices? Bad?
      Thanks
      Jeremy
    • gjc0@aol.com
      Jeremy: I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself, have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some ideas on the
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 5 6:20 PM
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        Jeremy:

        I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself, have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some ideas on the process.

        1.
        For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
        a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery. (Most use DC-DC converters)
        b) use a battery, no converter. (Works well, but adds weight and another charger)
        c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
        batteries. (NO! This will adversly affect battery string equalization)

        2.
        For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
        recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
        Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?
        My car uses a Zivan NG3. It runs and 240 volts, is configured to charge my 12 gel cells.
        It works well. Unless you a talented in kilowatt switching power supply design AND embedded micro processors. DO NOT use a home brew charger. Battery life is greatly affected by charging and discharging. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most forgiving, but the exotic batteries, starting with gel cells require better charging systems.

        I have been offered:
        $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
        (A good price if it works. Check the web suppliers like electroautomotive for comparisons)
        $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
        288V max) A good price if it works. Check what type and voltage batteries it is programmed for. Is is 120V or 240 Volt? I am looking to buy a 120 volt and get it reprogrammed for my car. Let me know, if you do not plan to buy it. I might.

        Sincerely,
        Gary Carlson



        -----Original Message-----
        From: Jeremy Rutman <jeremy_spagnet@...>
        To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:08:03 -0000
        Subject: [solectria_ev] battery chargers and dc dc converters


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Mike Phillips
        Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that puts out around
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 10 9:09 AM
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          Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out
          only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that
          puts out around 13.8v.

          Mike


          --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, gjc0@... wrote:
          >
          > Jeremy:
          >
          > I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself,
          have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some
          ideas on the process.
          >
          > 1.
          > For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
          > a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery. (Most use
          DC-DC converters)
          > b) use a battery, no converter. (Works well, but adds weight and
          another charger)
          > c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
          > batteries. (NO! This will adversly affect battery string equalization)
          >
          > 2.
          > For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
          > recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
          > Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?
          > My car uses a Zivan NG3. It runs and 240 volts, is configured to
          charge my 12 gel cells.
          > It works well. Unless you a talented in kilowatt switching power
          supply design AND embedded micro processors. DO NOT use a home brew
          charger. Battery life is greatly affected by charging and
          discharging. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most forgiving, but
          the exotic batteries, starting with gel cells require better charging
          systems.
          >
          > I have been offered:
          > $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
          > (A good price if it works. Check the web suppliers like
          electroautomotive for comparisons)
          > $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
          > 288V max) A good price if it works. Check what type and voltage
          batteries it is programmed for. Is is 120V or 240 Volt? I am looking
          to buy a 120 volt and get it reprogrammed for my car. Let me know, if
          you do not plan to buy it. I might.
          >
          > Sincerely,
          > Gary Carlson
          >
          >
          >
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: Jeremy Rutman <jeremy_spagnet@...>
          > To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
          > Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:08:03 -0000
          > Subject: [solectria_ev] battery chargers and dc dc converters
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • Terry Merrell
          Take a look at the E10 forum. There is a thread on how to up the voltage on the Solectria DC/DC converters. http://portev.org/forum/index.php Terry
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 10 10:06 AM
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            Take a look at the E10 forum. There is a thread on how to up the voltage on
            the Solectria DC/DC converters.

            http://portev.org/forum/index.php


            Terry


            > Tha bad news about the Solectria DC-DC converters is that it puts out
            > only 12 volts. So your headlights will be very dim. You need one that
            > puts out around 13.8v.
            >
            > Mike
            >
            >
            > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, gjc0@... wrote:
            >>
            >> Jeremy:
            >>
            >> I own a Solectria Force which I bought and repaired. I, myself,
            > have not done a conversion, but as an electrical engineer, have some
            > ideas on the process.
            >>
            >> 1.
            >> For my lights, horn, radio etc is it advisable to
            >> a) use a dc-dc converter, possibly topping up a battery. (Most use
            > DC-DC converters)
            >> b) use a battery, no converter. (Works well, but adds weight and
            > another charger)
            >> c) use a battery in parallel with one of the main propulsion
            >> batteries. (NO! This will adversly affect battery string equalization)
            >>
            >> 2.
            >> For charging the main propulsion batteries does anyone have
            >> recommendations for chargers? My storage is either Li ion or NiMh.
            >> Is a homebrew charger a bad idea?
            >> My car uses a Zivan NG3. It runs and 240 volts, is configured to
            > charge my 12 gel cells.
            >> It works well. Unless you a talented in kilowatt switching power
            > supply design AND embedded micro processors. DO NOT use a home brew
            > charger. Battery life is greatly affected by charging and
            > discharging. Flooded lead acid batteries are the most forgiving, but
            > the exotic batteries, starting with gel cells require better charging
            > systems.
            >>
            >> I have been offered:
            >> $350 for a Solectria DC750 dc-dc converter (200-400VDC to 12VDC)
            >> (A good price if it works. Check the web suppliers like
            > electroautomotive for comparisons)
            >> $200 for Zivan NG3 F7YBSO 288VDC charger (made for lead acid, 9A
            >> 288V max) A good price if it works. Check what type and voltage
            > batteries it is programmed for. Is is 120V or 240 Volt? I am looking
            > to buy a 120 volt and get it reprogrammed for my car. Let me know, if
            > you do not plan to buy it. I might.
            >>
            >> Sincerely,
            >> Gary Carlson
            >>
            >>
            >>
            >> -----Original Message-----
            >> From: Jeremy Rutman <jeremy_spagnet@...>
            >> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
            >> Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:08:03 -0000
            >> Subject: [solectria_ev] battery chargers and dc dc converters
            >>
            >>
            >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >>
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
          • Stephen Taylor
            My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken
            Message 5 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
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              My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

              Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

              Stephen Taylor



              ---------------------------------
              Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football ’06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Terry Merrell
              Stephen, Please let me know your findings. I am having a similar problem with my 276 volt unit. I purchased a used DC30-500 and can only find a few differences
              Message 6 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
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                Stephen,

                Please let me know your findings. I am having a similar problem with my 276
                volt unit. I purchased a used DC30-500 and can only find a few differences
                in it. I hope to use it in place of the dead one, but fear something else
                may have caused the first one to die.

                I realize this is of no help to you now, bu there was a brand new 144 volt
                unit on ebay last week. It closed at $66. I planned to bid, but arrived home
                too late.

                Terry Merrell



                ----- Original Message -----
                From: "Stephen Taylor" <sparrow262@...>
                To: <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 6:05 PM
                Subject: [solectria_ev] Air Conditioning Controller


                My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known
                working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried
                the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

                Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned
                that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and
                I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

                Stephen Taylor



                ---------------------------------
                Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football '06 - Go with the leader. Start your league
                today!

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                Yahoo! Groups Links
              • Stephen Taylor
                I saw the eBay one, but wasn t sure the 144 volt Air Conditioning controller would work in the 156 volt car and as you say the auction is over and I just found
                Message 7 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
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                  I saw the eBay one, but wasn't sure the 144 volt Air Conditioning controller would work in the 156 volt car and as you say the auction is over and I just found the problem a few hours ago.

                  Stephen Taylor


                  .





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                • Dan Wentworth
                  I just repaired my DC30-156 controller in my Force. These are pretty simple PWM controllers using a UCC2570 and two paralleled output MOSFETs. I was lucky in
                  Message 8 of 9 , Jun 18, 2006
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                    I just repaired my DC30-156 controller in my Force. These are pretty simple PWM controllers using a UCC2570 and two paralleled output MOSFETs. I was lucky in that my problem was only the output 0.47uF 250V film cap that was open circuit (bulged). The symptom was no starting under load but running relatively slowly after hand spinning without the belt.
                    I called Azure and they want $800 for a replacement controller. They would not provide the schematic or any other repair info.

                    Dan

                    ----- Original Message ----
                    From: Stephen Taylor <sparrow262@...>
                    To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:05:02 PM
                    Subject: [solectria_ev] Air Conditioning Controller


                    My Air Conditioning Controller died today. I was able to take a known working unit out of another car and the AC started working and I also tried the broken unit in the other car and it didn't work in there either.

                    Does anyone know how to fix these controllers? Would anybody be concerned that something else in the system might have damaged the broken unit and I'll find the replacement fried soon too?

                    Stephen Taylor



                    ------------ --------- --------- ---
                    Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football 06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • sparrow262
                    Well I think I found the cause of the death of my DC30-156. Eventhough the motor was working with another controller in the dead ones place, I decided that I
                    Message 9 of 9 , Jun 22, 2006
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                      Well I think I found the cause of the death of my DC30-156. Eventhough
                      the motor was working with another controller in the dead ones place, I
                      decided that I needed to have the motor checked out to be safe. The
                      motor repair shop found that two of the brushes had burned out which
                      must have caused a motor current overload and thus the death of the
                      DC30.
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