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Re: [solectria_ev] Re: Decals, battery watering

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  • Stephen Taylor
    Tom Does your system run constantly if it is plugged in? By that I mean does it stop running after the charge is complete, but while still plugged in. I ve
    Message 1 of 26 , Dec 9, 2005
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      Tom

      Does your system run constantly if it is plugged in? By that I mean does it stop running after the charge is complete, but while still plugged in.

      I've been worried about my system for sometime. I'll have to try feeling for that relay too. My cooling system never seems to react strictly to being plugged in, but the threshold for the system turning on does seem to be lower if it is plugged in. By that I mean that if unplugged the system turns on around 30C depending on whether the ambient temperature is lower than the battery temperature, but if plugged in and the ambient temperature is low enough the system will run until the batteries reach something around 15C then it shuts off again. The ambient temperature around the car seems to be a very big factor as to whether the cooling system is on or not. Long story short, I bet my relay is working properly, it just has more controlls added to the cooling profile.

      Since putting in my new batteries last winter, I have noted that the cooling system runs much less frequently. Besides the new batteries I have changed my mode of operation for the car too though. Taking a que from our RAV4 EV, I now use a water heater timer to make the charger start in the middle of the night when temeprature are cooler and the batteries have had time on their own to cool from any driving I may have done. Since I'm only driving the car now 10 to 15 miles at a time a few times a week, I also only charge the batteries once or twice a week. For that reason I am seeing cooler battery temperatures when I check and rarely do I hear the system turn on while driving. Being concerned about the batteries being cooled properly during charging I almost always force the system on for the last part of the bulk charge and for the overcharge.

      Nick having reported a battery temeperatures at 38C while charging on a cool night clearly has something wrong.

      Stephen

      Tom Hudson <tomhudson@...> wrote:
      It should come on (A) when charging or (B) when the
      battery temperatures are hot.

      When you plug the car in, there's one relay in there that turns on as
      soon as 240V is available. Try plugging in the car while touching the
      box. You should feel the relay click on. If not, you'll need to
      troubleshoot that by making sure the 240V is present.

      If that relay works, it could be the other one is bad. You should have
      two temperature sensor switches connected to the box, one from the front
      battery box and the other from the rear. If you unplug those and short
      the terminals where they plug in together (even with the car unplugged)
      the other relay should click and the cooling system should come on. If
      not, the second relay is bad.



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    • Tom Hudson
      My cooling system fan and pump turn on as soon as I plug in the car. It continues to run until the charge cycle is complete, then it turns off. It also runs
      Message 2 of 26 , Dec 10, 2005
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        My cooling system fan and pump turn on as soon as I plug in the car. It
        continues to run until the charge cycle is complete, then it turns off.
        It also runs if the batteries are warm -- This happens occasionally if I
        drive the car long distances on a hot day. Once I park it in my cool
        garage after such a drive, the cooling system runs for a while and then
        turns off.

        So the little control box is set up to turn the cooling system on when:

        A) Either battery box is too warm
        B) The car is plugged in and the charge cycle isn't finished.

        Yours apparently has the additional feature of not turning the cooling
        system on if the ambient temperature is too high so that the cooling
        system won't make them hotter.

        -Tom

        Stephen Taylor wrote:

        >Tom
        >
        > Does your system run constantly if it is plugged in? By that I mean does it stop running after the charge is complete, but while still plugged in.
        >
        > I've been worried about my system for sometime. I'll have to try feeling for that relay too. My cooling system never seems to react strictly to being plugged in, but the threshold for the system turning on does seem to be lower if it is plugged in. By that I mean that if unplugged the system turns on around 30C depending on whether the ambient temperature is lower than the battery temperature, but if plugged in and the ambient temperature is low enough the system will run until the batteries reach something around 15C then it shuts off again. The ambient temperature around the car seems to be a very big factor as to whether the cooling system is on or not. Long story short, I bet my relay is working properly, it just has more controlls added to the cooling profile.
        >
        > Since putting in my new batteries last winter, I have noted that the cooling system runs much less frequently. Besides the new batteries I have changed my mode of operation for the car too though. Taking a que from our RAV4 EV, I now use a water heater timer to make the charger start in the middle of the night when temeprature are cooler and the batteries have had time on their own to cool from any driving I may have done. Since I'm only driving the car now 10 to 15 miles at a time a few times a week, I also only charge the batteries once or twice a week. For that reason I am seeing cooler battery temperatures when I check and rarely do I hear the system turn on while driving. Being concerned about the batteries being cooled properly during charging I almost always force the system on for the last part of the bulk charge and for the overcharge.
        >
        > Nick having reported a battery temeperatures at 38C while charging on a cool night clearly has something wrong.
        >
        > Stephen
        >
        >Tom Hudson <tomhudson@...> wrote:
        > It should come on (A) when charging or (B) when the
        >battery temperatures are hot.
        >
        >When you plug the car in, there's one relay in there that turns on as
        >soon as 240V is available. Try plugging in the car while touching the
        >box. You should feel the relay click on. If not, you'll need to
        >troubleshoot that by making sure the 240V is present.
        >
        >If that relay works, it could be the other one is bad. You should have
        >two temperature sensor switches connected to the box, one from the front
        >battery box and the other from the rear. If you unplug those and short
        >the terminals where they plug in together (even with the car unplugged)
        >the other relay should click and the cooling system should come on. If
        >not, the second relay is bad.
        >
        >
        >
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        --
        Thomas Hudson
        http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
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      • Stephen Taylor
        I know I don t know much about the 12 volt systems in these cars, but I ve run into a problem. A few months ago I noticed my Dome light stopped working. I
        Message 3 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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          I know I don't know much about the 12 volt systems in these cars, but I've run into a problem. A few months ago I noticed my Dome light stopped working. I kind of ignored it for awhile since it wasn't that big a deal. Of course when I just recently went to fix it, my first thought was the bulb was bad, but no it checked out fine. Even tried it in another car. So I checked the fuse and it was fine too. That same fuse powers some part of the radio too anyways and the radio was still working.

          I next decided I would check the switch in the ceiling. Took the whole assembly down and tried it in another car and it works fine there too. I checked voltage and the voltage was kind of low at 11.8 volts. My other car was over 13 volts.

          After looking for some loose connection for hours I decided to see what the DC/DC converter was putting out. I disconnected the Anderson connector under the hood at the DC/DC converter and found just over 12 volts. I checked my other car and it read 13.2 volts. Now to me the really strange thing is that the only symptom I was experiencing in the car was the overhead dome wasn't working. Everything else in the car seems to be running exterior lights, lighter, fans radio etc..

          At this point I am surmising that the dome light is intolerant of low voltage. Does that sound plausible? Of course the greater concern is with the DC/DC converter. Should I take this as a sign that it is on its last leg or will it continue to function for a long time like this? Is there something I can do to get its voltage back up over 13 volts?

          I'd appreciate any thoughts.

          Stephen Taylor
          1999 Lead Acid Force
          1999 NiCD Force
          1997 Valence Lithium Force
          1999 Sunrise


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        • umarc
          ... The voltage at the dome light assembly is 11.8 volts? ... Not if it s an ordinary incandescent, no. It s more likely you have an open circuit somewhere, I
          Message 4 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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            On Wed, 4 Jan 2006, Stephen Taylor wrote:

            > I next decided I would check the switch in the ceiling. Took the whole
            > assembly down and tried it in another car and it works fine there too.
            > I checked voltage and the voltage was kind of low at 11.8 volts. My
            > other car was over 13 volts.

            The voltage at the dome light assembly is 11.8 volts?

            > At this point I am surmising that the dome light is intolerant of low
            > voltage. Does that sound plausible?

            Not if it's an ordinary incandescent, no. It's more likely you have an
            open circuit somewhere, I think. The DC-to-DC converter voltage may be low
            due to component aging, or it may always have been low. It's also possible
            that it has a bad regulator.

            Can you monitor the voltage output of the converter while turning on the
            headlights or radio? Does the voltage go down significantly when you turn
            them on, or does it stay at 11.8? If the latter, I'd be inclined to
            suspect the voltage was always low; in any case, the dome light problem
            almost has to be an open circuit somewhere.

            Good luck,


            Rob Landry
            1992 Solectria Force
            Needham, MA
            umarc@...
          • Tom Hudson
            Stephen, You might want to check the following topic over at our E-10 forum: http://portev.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59 The subject of the DC-DC output voltage
            Message 5 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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              Stephen,

              You might want to check the following topic over at our E-10 forum:

              http://portev.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59

              The subject of the DC-DC output voltage came up and we found that at
              least some of the DC-DC converters are adjustable. Details in that thread.

              -Tom

              Stephen Taylor wrote:

              >I know I don't know much about the 12 volt systems in these cars, but I've run into a problem. A few months ago I noticed my Dome light stopped working. I kind of ignored it for awhile since it wasn't that big a deal. Of course when I just recently went to fix it, my first thought was the bulb was bad, but no it checked out fine. Even tried it in another car. So I checked the fuse and it was fine too. That same fuse powers some part of the radio too anyways and the radio was still working.
              >
              > I next decided I would check the switch in the ceiling. Took the whole assembly down and tried it in another car and it works fine there too. I checked voltage and the voltage was kind of low at 11.8 volts. My other car was over 13 volts.
              >
              > After looking for some loose connection for hours I decided to see what the DC/DC converter was putting out. I disconnected the Anderson connector under the hood at the DC/DC converter and found just over 12 volts. I checked my other car and it read 13.2 volts. Now to me the really strange thing is that the only symptom I was experiencing in the car was the overhead dome wasn't working. Everything else in the car seems to be running exterior lights, lighter, fans radio etc..
              >
              > At this point I am surmising that the dome light is intolerant of low voltage. Does that sound plausible? Of course the greater concern is with the DC/DC converter. Should I take this as a sign that it is on its last leg or will it continue to function for a long time like this? Is there something I can do to get its voltage back up over 13 volts?
              >
              > I'd appreciate any thoughts.
              >
              > Stephen Taylor
              > 1999 Lead Acid Force
              > 1999 NiCD Force
              > 1997 Valence Lithium Force
              > 1999 Sunrise
              >
              >
              >---------------------------------
              >Yahoo! Photos
              > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
              >
              >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >

              --
              Thomas Hudson
              http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
              http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
              http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club
              http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration
              http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
            • Stephen Taylor
              Sounds like they all are adjustable with the proper resistor at least the ones in the E-10s. Are the Force ones the same? Did you change yours? My NiCD car
              Message 6 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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                Sounds like they all are adjustable with the proper resistor at least the ones in the E-10s. Are the Force ones the same? Did you change yours? My NiCD car was already at 13.2 volts as was the Sunrise. The lead acid car was at 12 volts and the Valence Lithium car was at 12.4 volts.

                Of course it appears since most of the cars have the same low 12's for voltage, the problem I'm having isn't related to the DC/DC converter voltage so I'm not going to fool with any changes to it at this point.

                Thanks for the info something to think about for the future.

                Stephen

                Tom Hudson <tomhudson@...> wrote:
                Stephen,

                You might want to check the following topic over at our E-10 forum:

                http://portev.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59

                The subject of the DC-DC output voltage came up and we found that at
                least some of the DC-DC converters are adjustable. Details in that thread.

                -Tom



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              • Danny Ames
                Hi Stephen, My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that bugged me. I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the
                Message 7 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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                  Hi Stephen,
                  My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that
                  bugged me.
                  I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the bulb
                  metered the leads and the ground etc...
                  The voltage was very low like 6 volts and the lamp had no illumination
                  at all.
                  I was able to troubleshoot it to a lose connection.
                  On mine I tapped around the front passengers side near the floor to wall
                  on the right side area and the dome started working on off on off gave
                  it a good press and it has worked ever since. With out removing the
                  carpet or stuff :-) Make sure you have the drivers side door opened so
                  the door switch is allowed to presumably have the dome lamp on.
                  Yes it can be tricky tracing and finding stuff like this and was
                  dreading a problem under that pretty cramped area under the steering
                  wheel as the wire harness is difficult to get at and already spliced
                  into for other things.
                  Someday soon I'll give a proper introduction (again) on myself since the
                  Yahoo server has lost my message it must of had some problems and
                  hopefully this message gets across.
                  Danny Ames.
                  1000 miles of Force since 11/12/2005



                  Stephen Taylor wrote:

                  >I know I don't know much about the 12 volt systems in these cars, but I've run into a problem. A few months ago I noticed my Dome light stopped working. I kind of ignored it for awhile since it wasn't that big a deal. Of course when I just recently went to fix it, my first thought was the bulb was bad, but no it checked out fine. Even tried it in another car. So I checked the fuse and it was fine too. That same fuse powers some part of the radio too anyways and the radio was still working.
                  >
                  > I next decided I would check the switch in the ceiling. Took the whole assembly down and tried it in another car and it works fine there too. I checked voltage and the voltage was kind of low at 11.8 volts. My other car was over 13 volts.
                  >
                  > After looking for some loose connection for hours I decided to see what the DC/DC converter was putting out. I disconnected the Anderson connector under the hood at the DC/DC converter and found just over 12 volts. I checked my other car and it read 13.2 volts. Now to me the really strange thing is that the only symptom I was experiencing in the car was the overhead dome wasn't working. Everything else in the car seems to be running exterior lights, lighter, fans radio etc..
                  >
                  > At this point I am surmising that the dome light is intolerant of low voltage. Does that sound plausible? Of course the greater concern is with the DC/DC converter. Should I take this as a sign that it is on its last leg or will it continue to function for a long time like this? Is there something I can do to get its voltage back up over 13 volts?
                  >
                  > I'd appreciate any thoughts.
                  >
                  > Stephen Taylor
                  > 1999 Lead Acid Force
                  > 1999 NiCD Force
                  > 1997 Valence Lithium Force
                  > 1999 Sunrise
                  >
                  >
                  >---------------------------------
                  >Yahoo! Photos
                  > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
                  >
                  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                • Danny Ames
                  Hi Stephen, My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that bugged me. I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the
                  Message 8 of 26 , Jan 4, 2006
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                    Hi Stephen,
                    My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that
                    bugged me.
                    I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the bulb
                    metered the leads and the ground etc...
                    The voltage was very low like 6 volts and the lamp had no illumination
                    at all.
                    I was able to troubleshoot it to a lose connection.
                    On mine I tapped around the front passengers side near the floor to wall
                    on the right side area and the dome started working on off on off gave
                    it a good press and it has worked ever since. With out removing the
                    carpet or stuff :-) Make sure you have the drivers side door opened so
                    the door switch is allowed to presumably have the dome lamp on.
                    Yes it can be tricky tracing and finding stuff like this and was
                    dreading a problem under that pretty cramped area under the steering
                    wheel as the wire harness is difficult to get at and already spliced
                    into for other things.
                    Someday soon I'll give a proper introduction (again) on myself since the
                    Yahoo server has lost my message it must of had some problems and
                    hopefully this message gets across.
                    Danny Ames.
                    1000 miles of Force since 11/12/2005
                  • Danny Ames
                    Hi Stephen, My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that bugged me. I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the
                    Message 9 of 26 , Jan 5, 2006
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                      Hi Stephen,
                      My dome light never did not work when I first got my 99 Force and that
                      bugged me.
                      I checked all fuses and removed the dome fixture and tested the bulb
                      metered the leads and the ground etc...
                      The voltage was very low like 6 volts and the lamp had no illumination
                      at all.
                      I was able to troubleshoot it to a lose connection.
                      On mine I tapped around the front passengers side near the floor to
                      wall on the right side area and the dome started working on off on off
                      gave it a good press and it has worked ever since. With out removing
                      the carpet or stuff :-) Make sure you have the drivers side door
                      opened so the door switch is allowed to presumably have the dome lamp on.
                      Yes it can be tricky tracing and finding stuff like this and was
                      dreading a problem under that pretty cramped area under the steering
                      wheel as the wire harness is difficult to get at and already spliced
                      into for other things.
                      Someday soon I'll try again to give a proper introduction on myself
                      since the Yahoo server did not relay, well hopefully this message gets
                      across.
                      Danny Ames.
                      1000 miles of Force since 11/12/2005
                    • Stephen Taylor
                      Sounds like the same connector I found earlier this morning. Wish I had gotten your message before I spent all that time under the dash. Stephen Taylor Danny
                      Message 10 of 26 , Jan 5, 2006
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                        Sounds like the same connector I found earlier this morning. Wish I had gotten your message before I spent all that time under the dash.

                        Stephen Taylor

                        Danny Ames <cleanair@...> wrote:
                        I was able to troubleshoot it to a lose connection.
                        On mine I tapped around the front passengers side near the floor to
                        wall on the right side area and the dome started working on off on off
                        gave it a good press and it has worked ever since. With out removing
                        the carpet or stuff :-)

                        ---------------------------------
                        Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less

                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • William S
                        I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the DC/Dc converter
                        Message 11 of 26 , Oct 30, 2010
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                          I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                        • Pohorsky@comcast.net
                          Hi Bill, Your DC-DC converter may be bad, but be aware that voltage sag under high load is normal if you do not have an auxiliary battery. I have been
                          Message 12 of 26 , Oct 31, 2010
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                            Hi Bill,

                            Your DC-DC converter may be bad, but be aware that voltage sag under high load is "normal" if you do not have an auxiliary battery. I have been working on a Honda Civic Conversion that uses the Azure Dynamics Motor and controller that we bought from Electro Automotive (EA).

                            We chose a Vicor DC-DC converter because it was much smaller and less expensive than the "Solectria" one offered at the time by EA. Also the one from EA did not match our battery pack voltage. I just checked the EA website and they no longer offer that DC-DC unit and all of the Azure Dynamics drive systems are not available until further notice.

                            We tried running the car with just the DC-DC alone, initially. (If you have an auxiliary battery, maybe it is bad ).

                            The Vicor unit we picked was a 600 watt 12 volt Maxi module model with the solder post connection. That turned out to be a mistake because we soldered heavy wires to the posts. Eventually one of the post connections failed inside the module due to too much heat during soldering.

                            Even though it was our fault, Vicor gave us full credit toward a new unit. The original unit was about $380 and the new one was about $100 more because we selected the Lug-mate option which has threaded output posts and a 20 pin input connector instead of solder pins (there are several smaller wires in parallel for the + and - input connections). It also came mounted on an aluminum cold plate (the first unit we got was just a plug in module designed to go into a motherboard). We mounted a heat sink on the cold plate for added cooling.

                            We also selected a 15 volt unit. Both the 12 volt unit and 15 volt unit can be trimmed by up to 10% with a resistor. However 10% of 12 is 1.2 so the maximum we could get is 13.2. We currently have our 15 volt unit set for 13.6 V which keeps our auxiliary battery nicely charged.

                            That unit worked fine in the car except when the vacuum pump came on for the power brakes. At that point, the voltage sagged so low that the LCD digits on our odometer completely disappeared. After the brake pump shut off, the odometer recovered and all was well. However, we felt that this would be unacceptable to a customer who will buy the car, so we installed a small 12 volt auxiliary battery (Panasonic gel cell rated at 17 AH).

                            With the aux battery in parallel with the output of the Vicor, we have a robust system that handles the sags nicely. The battery holds up the DC-DC output during the heavy load spike and then charges the battery the rest of the time.

                            There are some other manufacturers of DC-DC besides Vicor. I think Lambda is one of them. However, the people at Vicor were very nice to deal with, so I prefer them. They do consider each order a custom product, so there is usually a long lead time involved. If you call and ask, they can check to see if there are any "overstock" units that they have in their inventory that match your requirements. These units sometimes have a military temperature range, so they can be more expensive - you have to pick and choose.

                            I have also seen Vicor units for sale on eBay and a website that sells surplus equipment. The eBay units can be a real bargain if you can find one with the voltage range you want. The surplus dealer was selling an older revision (but still new) unit for about the same price as the latest revision from Vicor, so we bought directly from the manufacturer.

                            We also installed a toggle switch (disable switch) to turn turn the Vicor off (vacation mode) and wired an LED across the switch (the schematic for that was on their data sheet). This allows us to see at a glance if the DC-DC is on or off.

                            Good luck.

                            Adios,

                            Jerry Pohorsky
                            www.eeVeeMotors.com

                            ----- Original Message -----
                            From: "William S" <dbswann4@...>
                            To: "solectria ev" <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2010 4:00:41 PM
                            Subject: [solectria_ev] DC/DC converter






                            I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S




                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • ldr214
                            there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                            Message 13 of 26 , Nov 1, 2010
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                              there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago

                              --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "William S" <dbswann4@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                              >
                            • dexion111
                              You may want to try these guys: http://www.current-logic.com/shop/ See if they will make you one. Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to
                              Message 14 of 26 , Nov 1, 2010
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                                You may want to try these guys:
                                http://www.current-logic.com/shop/

                                See if they will make you one.

                                Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to make me custom voltage chargers not on their site:
                                http://www.evassemble.com/

                                Their live chat seems up more than not as well (talk to them live.) I got 2 custom chargers from them but the second took 3 months to get. The first was a month. Both worked fine and were exactly to my specs.

                                --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "ldr214" <replytome@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                                >
                                > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "William S" <dbswann4@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                                > >
                                >
                              • Wolf
                                You could always use a PC power supply. :) They will opperate from around 130VDC to 350VDC. http://www.wolftronix.com/DC_powersupply Wolf *wags his tail*
                                Message 15 of 26 , Nov 1, 2010
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  You could always use a PC power supply. :)

                                  They will opperate from around 130VDC to 350VDC.

                                  http://www.wolftronix.com/DC_powersupply

                                  Wolf
                                  *wags his tail*
                                  www.wolftronix.com

                                  On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 2:10 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:

                                  >
                                  >
                                  > You may want to try these guys:
                                  > http://www.current-logic.com/shop/
                                  >
                                  > See if they will make you one.
                                  >
                                  > Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to make me custom
                                  > voltage chargers not on their site:
                                  > http://www.evassemble.com/
                                  >
                                  > Their live chat seems up more than not as well (talk to them live.) I got 2
                                  > custom chargers from them but the second took 3 months to get. The first was
                                  > a month. Both worked fine and were exactly to my specs.
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                  > "ldr214" <replytome@...> wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > > there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                                  > >
                                  > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                  > "William S" <dbswann4@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into
                                  > regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the
                                  > DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high
                                  > beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The
                                  > people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure
                                  > is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage
                                  > ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there
                                  > any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                                  > > >
                                  > >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >


                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                • dexion111
                                  http://cgi.ebay.com/Isolated-DC-DC-CONVERTER-400W-48-72-84-96-120-144-192-/120522543727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c0fb4126f this guy says he will make
                                  Message 16 of 26 , Nov 1, 2010
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    http://cgi.ebay.com/Isolated-DC-DC-CONVERTER-400W-48-72-84-96-120-144-192-/120522543727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c0fb4126f


                                    this guy says he will make you what you need in his ebay add as well.
                                    cheap too (no idea of quality)

                                    --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Wolf <wolf@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > You could always use a PC power supply. :)
                                    >
                                    > They will opperate from around 130VDC to 350VDC.
                                    >
                                    > http://www.wolftronix.com/DC_powersupply
                                    >
                                    > Wolf
                                    > *wags his tail*
                                    > www.wolftronix.com
                                    >
                                    > On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 2:10 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > You may want to try these guys:
                                    > > http://www.current-logic.com/shop/
                                    > >
                                    > > See if they will make you one.
                                    > >
                                    > > Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to make me custom
                                    > > voltage chargers not on their site:
                                    > > http://www.evassemble.com/
                                    > >
                                    > > Their live chat seems up more than not as well (talk to them live.) I got 2
                                    > > custom chargers from them but the second took 3 months to get. The first was
                                    > > a month. Both worked fine and were exactly to my specs.
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                    > > "ldr214" <replytome@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                    > > "William S" <dbswann4@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into
                                    > > regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that the
                                    > > DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal lights/high
                                    > > beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8. The
                                    > > people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500. Azure
                                    > > is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input voltage
                                    > > ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are there
                                    > > any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                                    > > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    >
                                  • William Swann
                                    Using a PC power supply is interesting. I assume the watts is low, but in combo with a battery it may work. I did not see in Wolf s photos what the output
                                    Message 17 of 26 , Nov 1, 2010
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Using a PC power supply is interesting. I assume the watts is low, but in
                                      combo with a battery it may work. I did not see in Wolf's photos what the
                                      output voltage was. Was it 12, or 13.5? Seems like it would have to be the
                                      latter, given that 13.5 v is the mostly charged 12 v battery voltage.

                                      I have made an inquiry of the guy in Florida who has some surplus Solectria
                                      converters that were removed from the Metabus project. Also, an inquiry of
                                      Kelly Controllers.

                                      On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 7:30 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:

                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > http://cgi.ebay.com/Isolated-DC-DC-CONVERTER-400W-48-72-84-96-120-144-192-/120522543727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c0fb4126f
                                      >
                                      > this guy says he will make you what you need in his ebay add as well.
                                      > cheap too (no idea of quality)
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>, Wolf
                                      > <wolf@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > You could always use a PC power supply. :)
                                      > >
                                      > > They will opperate from around 130VDC to 350VDC.
                                      > >
                                      > > http://www.wolftronix.com/DC_powersupply
                                      > >
                                      > > Wolf
                                      > > *wags his tail*
                                      > > www.wolftronix.com
                                      > >
                                      > > On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 2:10 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > You may want to try these guys:
                                      > > > http://www.current-logic.com/shop/
                                      > > >
                                      > > > See if they will make you one.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to make me
                                      > custom
                                      > > > voltage chargers not on their site:
                                      > > > http://www.evassemble.com/
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Their live chat seems up more than not as well (talk to them live.) I
                                      > got 2
                                      > > > custom chargers from them but the second took 3 months to get. The
                                      > first was
                                      > > > a month. Both worked fine and were exactly to my specs.
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com><solectria_ev%
                                      > 40yahoogroups.com>,
                                      > > > "ldr214" <replytome@> wrote:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com><solectria_ev%
                                      > 40yahoogroups.com>,
                                      > > > "William S" <dbswann4@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went into
                                      > > > regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced that
                                      > the
                                      > > > DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal
                                      > lights/high
                                      > > > beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to 10.8.
                                      > The
                                      > > > people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500.
                                      > Azure
                                      > > > is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input
                                      > voltage
                                      > > > ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are
                                      > there
                                      > > > any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      > >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >


                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Wolf
                                      Depends on the PC power supply... I have one sitting here that has 12V @ 50 amps max. Some PC power supplies have trimpots in them to adjust the voltage... but
                                      Message 18 of 26 , Nov 2, 2010
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Depends on the PC power supply... I have one sitting here that has 12V @ 50
                                        amps max.

                                        Some PC power supplies have trimpots in them to adjust the voltage... but I
                                        don't think they will adjust up to 13.8 volts.

                                        If you can find the voltage feedback resistor network, swapping out one
                                        resistor in the voltage divider will let you set the voltage at 13.8V. ;)

                                        Also, I am still looking for an AMC 320 motor controller... :)

                                        Wolf
                                        *wags his tail*
                                        www.wolftronix.com
                                        On Nov 1, 2010 8:54 PM, "William Swann" <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                                        > Using a PC power supply is interesting. I assume the watts is low, but in
                                        > combo with a battery it may work. I did not see in Wolf's photos what the
                                        > output voltage was. Was it 12, or 13.5? Seems like it would have to be the
                                        > latter, given that 13.5 v is the mostly charged 12 v battery voltage.
                                        >
                                        > I have made an inquiry of the guy in Florida who has some surplus
                                        Solectria
                                        > converters that were removed from the Metabus project. Also, an inquiry of
                                        > Kelly Controllers.
                                        >
                                        > On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 7:30 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        http://cgi.ebay.com/Isolated-DC-DC-CONVERTER-400W-48-72-84-96-120-144-192-/120522543727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c0fb4126f
                                        >>
                                        >> this guy says he will make you what you need in his ebay add as well.
                                        >> cheap too (no idea of quality)
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                        Wolf
                                        >> <wolf@...> wrote:
                                        >> >
                                        >> > You could always use a PC power supply. :)
                                        >> >
                                        >> > They will opperate from around 130VDC to 350VDC.
                                        >> >
                                        >> > http://www.wolftronix.com/DC_powersupply
                                        >> >
                                        >> > Wolf
                                        >> > *wags his tail*
                                        >> > www.wolftronix.com
                                        >> >
                                        >> > On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 2:10 PM, dexion111 <dexion111@...> wrote:
                                        >> >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > > You may want to try these guys:
                                        >> > > http://www.current-logic.com/shop/
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > > See if they will make you one.
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > > Also, while slow (but cheap) these guys have been willing to make me
                                        >> custom
                                        >> > > voltage chargers not on their site:
                                        >> > > http://www.evassemble.com/
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > > Their live chat seems up more than not as well (talk to them live.) I
                                        >> got 2
                                        >> > > custom chargers from them but the second took 3 months to get. The
                                        >> first was
                                        >> > > a month. Both worked fine and were exactly to my specs.
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                                        ><solectria_ev%
                                        >> 40yahoogroups.com>,
                                        >> > > "ldr214" <replytome@> wrote:
                                        >> > > >
                                        >> > > > there was a high voltage brusa dc/dc at EV trader a few weeks ago
                                        >> > > >
                                        >> > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com
                                        ><solectria_ev%
                                        >> 40yahoogroups.com>,
                                        >> > > "William S" <dbswann4@> wrote:
                                        >> > > > >
                                        >> > > > > I was driving at night time with the lights on and when I went
                                        into
                                        >> > > regen mode, my lights dimmed, and I lost power steering. I deduced
                                        that
                                        >> the
                                        >> > > DC/Dc converter was sagging. Sure enough, a test with normal
                                        >> lights/high
                                        >> > > beams/then brake on, that the converter voltage sagged from 12 to
                                        10.8.
                                        >> The
                                        >> > > people at Vicor said that the converter was going bad. New one $500.
                                        >> Azure
                                        >> > > is not selling them. I was looking at one from IOTA, but the input
                                        >> voltage
                                        >> > > ranges are 108-190 or 260-340. My E-10 truck is 228 to 270 volts. Are
                                        >> there
                                        >> > > any other sources? Thanks in advance. Bill S
                                        >> > > > >
                                        >> > > >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> > >
                                        >> >
                                        >> >
                                        >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        >> >
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        >


                                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      • William S
                                        I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it, it blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the fusebox.
                                        Message 19 of 26 , Oct 13, 2012
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it, it blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the fusebox. Replaced the fuse. It blew when re connecting the anderson. I am tempted to try a higher amp rated fuse. 10 amp 15 amp. Any thoughts on this?
                                        • Rick Durst
                                          I have a 5 amp fuse 156 volt input for my 575watt DC to DC converter. What watt rating is yours. If the appropriate fuse blows a bigger one might not blow
                                          Message 20 of 26 , Oct 13, 2012
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            I have a 5 amp fuse 156 volt input for my 575watt DC to DC converter. What
                                            watt rating is yours. If the appropriate fuse blows a bigger one might not
                                            blow until you start melting things or burning up things. If the output
                                            cable is disconnected and the fuse blows it is probably time to open up the
                                            converter and start inspecting things. NEVER PUT IN BIGGER FUSES IN HOPES
                                            THAT IT WILL FIX IT.

                                            Rick
                                            On Oct 13, 2012 10:54 AM, "William S" <william.swann2@...> wrote:

                                            > **
                                            >
                                            >
                                            > I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it, it
                                            > blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the
                                            > fusebox. Replaced the fuse. It blew when re connecting the anderson. I am
                                            > tempted to try a higher amp rated fuse. 10 amp 15 amp. Any thoughts on this?
                                            >
                                            >
                                            >


                                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                          • William Swann
                                            This on an E-10. Specs are 228 volt in,12 v out @ 31 amps, output power is 380 watts. ... -- Thanks, Bill S Ph 832-338-3080 www.watt-tracker.com
                                            Message 21 of 26 , Oct 13, 2012
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              This on an E-10. Specs are 228 volt in,12 v out @ 31 amps, output power is
                                              380 watts.

                                              On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Rick Durst <k1ykz7@...> wrote:

                                              > I have a 5 amp fuse 156 volt input for my 575watt DC to DC converter. What
                                              > watt rating is yours. If the appropriate fuse blows a bigger one might not
                                              > blow until you start melting things or burning up things. If the output
                                              > cable is disconnected and the fuse blows it is probably time to open up the
                                              > converter and start inspecting things. NEVER PUT IN BIGGER FUSES IN HOPES
                                              > THAT IT WILL FIX IT.
                                              >
                                              > Rick
                                              > On Oct 13, 2012 10:54 AM, "William S" <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                                              >
                                              > > **
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it,
                                              > it
                                              > > blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the
                                              > > fusebox. Replaced the fuse. It blew when re connecting the anderson. I am
                                              > > tempted to try a higher amp rated fuse. 10 amp 15 amp. Any thoughts on
                                              > this?
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > ------------------------------------
                                              >
                                              > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >


                                              --
                                              Thanks, Bill S
                                              Ph 832-338-3080
                                              www.watt-tracker.com
                                              www.promotingevs.com


                                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                            • geo_homsy2
                                              Agreed with Rick -- do not try a larger fuse in hopes it will fix the problem. Generally, it burns up wires. So, here are some numbers: output power: 380
                                              Message 22 of 26 , Oct 14, 2012
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                Agreed with Rick -- do not try a larger fuse in hopes it will "fix" the problem. Generally, it burns up wires.

                                                So, here are some numbers:

                                                output power: 380 watts
                                                input power: 540 watts MAX (that's assuming 70 pct efficiency; higher efficiency will result in lower input power)

                                                so, 540W in / 228 volts = 2.4 amps MAX.

                                                So, a bigger fuse is DEFINITELY not your answer.

                                                The one thing I would try, before ripping the converter apart, is a slo-blo fuse. Try 3A, 4A, or 5A slo-blo. I wouldn't go any bigger.

                                                //Geo

                                                --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                                                >
                                                > This on an E-10. Specs are 228 volt in,12 v out @ 31 amps, output power is
                                                > 380 watts.
                                                >
                                                > On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Rick Durst <k1ykz7@...> wrote:
                                                >
                                                > > I have a 5 amp fuse 156 volt input for my 575watt DC to DC converter. What
                                                > > watt rating is yours. If the appropriate fuse blows a bigger one might not
                                                > > blow until you start melting things or burning up things. If the output
                                                > > cable is disconnected and the fuse blows it is probably time to open up the
                                                > > converter and start inspecting things. NEVER PUT IN BIGGER FUSES IN HOPES
                                                > > THAT IT WILL FIX IT.
                                                > >
                                                > > Rick
                                                > > On Oct 13, 2012 10:54 AM, "William S" <william.swann2@...> wrote:
                                                > >
                                                > > > **
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > > > I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it,
                                                > > it
                                                > > > blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the
                                                > > > fusebox. Replaced the fuse. It blew when re connecting the anderson. I am
                                                > > > tempted to try a higher amp rated fuse. 10 amp 15 amp. Any thoughts on
                                                > > this?
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > ------------------------------------
                                                > >
                                                > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                >
                                                >
                                                > --
                                                > Thanks, Bill S
                                                > Ph 832-338-3080
                                                > www.watt-tracker.com
                                                > www.promotingevs.com
                                                >
                                                >
                                                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                >
                                              • William S
                                                I blew another 6 a fuse, this time with the 12 volt, output disconnected. Will try a slow blow fuse. I know the manual says that there is a current inrush when
                                                Message 23 of 26 , Oct 14, 2012
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  I blew another 6 a fuse, this time with the 12 volt, output disconnected. Will try a slow blow fuse. I know the manual says that there is a current inrush when connected pack voltage.

                                                  --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "geo_homsy2" <geo.homsy@...> wrote:
                                                  >
                                                  > Agreed with Rick -- do not try a larger fuse in hopes it will "fix" the problem. Generally, it burns up wires.
                                                  >
                                                  > So, here are some numbers:
                                                  >
                                                  > output power: 380 watts
                                                  > input power: 540 watts MAX (that's assuming 70 pct efficiency; higher efficiency will result in lower input power)
                                                  >
                                                  > so, 540W in / 228 volts = 2.4 amps MAX.
                                                  >
                                                  > So, a bigger fuse is DEFINITELY not your answer.
                                                  >
                                                  > The one thing I would try, before ripping the converter apart, is a slo-blo fuse. Try 3A, 4A, or 5A slo-blo. I wouldn't go any bigger.
                                                  >
                                                  > //Geo
                                                  >
                                                  > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, William Swann <william.swann2@> wrote:
                                                  > >
                                                  > > This on an E-10. Specs are 228 volt in,12 v out @ 31 amps, output power is
                                                  > > 380 watts.
                                                  > >
                                                  > > On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Rick Durst <k1ykz7@> wrote:
                                                  > >
                                                  > > > I have a 5 amp fuse 156 volt input for my 575watt DC to DC converter. What
                                                  > > > watt rating is yours. If the appropriate fuse blows a bigger one might not
                                                  > > > blow until you start melting things or burning up things. If the output
                                                  > > > cable is disconnected and the fuse blows it is probably time to open up the
                                                  > > > converter and start inspecting things. NEVER PUT IN BIGGER FUSES IN HOPES
                                                  > > > THAT IT WILL FIX IT.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Rick
                                                  > > > On Oct 13, 2012 10:54 AM, "William S" <william.swann2@> wrote:
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > > **
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > I noted a blown 6 amp fuse in the feed from the fusebox. I replaced it,
                                                  > > > it
                                                  > > > > blew immediately. I disconnected the anderson connector feeding the
                                                  > > > > fusebox. Replaced the fuse. It blew when re connecting the anderson. I am
                                                  > > > > tempted to try a higher amp rated fuse. 10 amp 15 amp. Any thoughts on
                                                  > > > this?
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > ------------------------------------
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > >
                                                  > >
                                                  > > --
                                                  > > Thanks, Bill S
                                                  > > Ph 832-338-3080
                                                  > > www.watt-tracker.com
                                                  > > www.promotingevs.com
                                                  > >
                                                  > >
                                                  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                  > >
                                                  >
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