2273Re: What to look for when buying a used Solectria?
- Dec 2, 2006Hi,
Any history you can get from the current owner would be good. Such as
service and any know problems. How did they drive it? Fluid changes,
battery terminal tightening etc.
I think Nick meant 10.5 volts per battery, and not 1.5V per cell, as
per the procedure in the service manual. You can't easily read
individual cell voltage on a G27 and a 1.5V cell wouldn't be very
good. You can quickly check the total pack voltage with a multimeter
by pulling off the main connector for the motor controller and probing
the contacts on the car side of the Anderson. Should be about 175 with
the charger just disconnected on a good full battery pack. The voltage
at the contact can be lethal so do this based upon your own skill level.
Opening up the battery compartments isn't something you can do in a
quick walk around while making a evaluation. Especially the front if
the car has A/C. Unless the pack is very new you'll just want to
figure any miles you get out of it are "freebies". You may be
pleasantly surprised if you don't need a lot of range every trip. My
car had 13000 miles on the original pack when I bought it (SEP 04)
today it just went over 21000, same original pack and the range and
performance is still fine. If you drive the car 25 miles and still
have "peepy" performance you probably have a reasonably strong pack.
If the owner won't go 25 miles with you the pack may need replacing. I
notice battery "sag" starting at about 20 miles, a 5-10 mile drive
probably won't give you much info on pack condition unless it is
The solectria electrics seem to work or not work. There isn't much you
can do in predicting a pending failure. But I think you can tell if
the car itself has been abused or babied.
The drain nut for the tranny may be leaking if you see fluid in that
area. It can back out as per the service manual. Tough to check
without taking off the plastic bottom skirt but if you think there is
a problem it will be worth looking at and you can look over the CV's
and axles while your there.
Read the service manual in the files section and the old messages.
You'll be well prepared if you do.
IMO the Geo isn't a real robust vehicle so look for Geo stuff that you
might want to get fixed or can't live with. The good thing about these
things being electric is that for the most part they have had a fairly
pampered life when it comes to mileage.
Try the heater and A/C they can both be pricey to fix and you want to
pay for working ones or get a discount.
Finally read about regen squeal as this will sound like a terrible
bearing noise if you haven't heard it before.
--- In email@example.com, "mmeeddiicc" <mofmofmof@...> wrote:
> I am planning on buying a 97 next week. I'd be interested to hear
> peoples thoughts on the cars and on what I should look at when I
> examine the car. Specific questions
> 1. Charger - What's the best way to evaluate this? I figured I could
> take a volt meter and test the voltage across it during charging.
> 2. Health of the Battery Pack - I figured a test drive over 5-10miles
> would be reasonable. If it's cold I may have problems. Any thoughts?
> 3. Bearings - I understand that these need replacement every 25-50k.
> What's the best way to evaluate these? Have most owners performed
> these replacements, or do they others (?who) do this. How much is
> this repair?
> 4. Seal between motor and gear box - The picture I received made me
> suspicious that there may be a leak here. The owner says that he
> thinks it is a spill. Has this been a problem with these cars? I
> suspect as long as the fluid levels in the gear box were maintained
> there would be little damage.
> 5. Controller - I suspect a test drive will tell me everything I need
> to know.
> 6. Is there any concern about rust in the motor?
> 7. Owners manual - I don't think I get one with the car has someone
> put these on the internet?
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