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Re: [softrock40] Re: heat gun vs embossing tool

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  • Brad Thompson
    ... Hello, Daniel-- If I were you, I d use tin/lead solder (typically 63/37) with rosin flux and avoid lead-free solder. The tin/lead eutectic ratio of
    Message 1 of 37 , Jun 26, 2013
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      On 6/26/2013 9:02 PM, Daniel Morgan wrote:
      > Would lead-free solder with rosin core from Radio Shack work building
      > the SoftRock Lite II Combined Kit? I bought this thinking this would
      > work. But, I have been hearing hams say that I should be using lead-tin
      > solder something like 40/60 with
      >
      <snip>

      Hello, Daniel--

      If I were you, I'd use tin/lead solder (typically 63/37) with
      rosin flux and avoid lead-free solder.

      The tin/lead eutectic ratio of 63/37 has the lowest melting point
      of all tin/lead compositions (183C or 361F):

      http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/7-1-1.shtml

      Lead-free solder melts at higher temperatures, potentially
      exposing components to thermal damage while making component
      removal more difficult and possibly endangering the PC board.

      Here's more info:

      http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm

      Lead-free solder complies with RoHS requirements, but it's
      not necessary for hobby projects (or IMO for production
      electronics).

      73--

      Brad AA1IP
    • kb9gpm
      Actually, I use a cheap Radio Shack station too. Well and a bench magnifying glass too. Mainly because I already had it. But one of these days when it wears
      Message 37 of 37 , Jul 2, 2013
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        Actually, I use a cheap Radio Shack station too. Well and a bench magnifying glass too. Mainly because I already had it. But one of these days when it wears out, I plan on upgrading to a nice Weller. So they can be built without buying expensive equipment. You just need steady hands. I've even build a Peaberry using the same setup.

        73 David K9GPM

        --- In softrock40@yahoogroups.com, Adam Jacobs <jacobs.adam@...> wrote:
        >
        > I still think that if it is your first time building up the board, just
        > do it with a soldering iron and do it section by section. Being able to
        > follow the various tests and troubleshooting steps for each section as
        > it is assembled is very nice, especially when this is your first time.
        > There's plenty of room to get fancy and assemble the entire board
        > without testing anything on your 2nd or 3rd board. :)
        > There is absolutely no requirement to us solder paste, heat gun,
        > embossing tool, etc, etc to assemble the components on these boards.
        > Tony says he puts them together with a $20 radioshack soldering iron
        > (holy cow, Tony! Talk about skill)... I use one of the lower end metcal
        > units, but only because I happened to have access to one. Before that, I
        > used one of the classic blue-handle Weller irons and it works great.
        > Just my $0.02
        >
        > -73 Adam W7QI
        >
        > On 6/29/2013 11:08 AM, John Greusel wrote:
        > > Jon,
        > > It's customary to do all the SMT components at once and yes it does
        > > change the values in the step by step assembly instructions such that
        > > you can't rely on them as much.
        > >
        > >
        > > John
        > > KC9OJV
        > >
        > >
        > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
        > > *From:* W7VH <jon@...>
        > > *To:* softrock40@yahoogroups.com
        > > *Sent:* Saturday, June 29, 2013 10:02 AM
        > > *Subject:* [softrock40] Re: heat gun vs embossing tool
        > >
        > > Thanks for all the info everybody. If I use the
        > > solder paste, I'm still wondering if I need to do
        > > all the parts I'm using it on in the whole kit
        > > all at once?
        > >
        > > Thanks,
        > >
        > > Jon
        > > W7VH
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
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