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Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available

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  • fixitsan2
    ... The cathode resistor values were selected for a voltage of 170V and with a wire link fitted in place of an anode resistor.For that reason your starting
    Message 1 of 23 , Jan 24, 2010
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      --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...> wrote:

      > I would also be interested in the voltage and current levels others are using to drive the ZM1350 tube in a non-multiplexed configuration. I've been trying different levels of both current and voltage, and the tubes I have tried can't light up the length of any segment completely without bleeding and generally looking like a poisoned tube.
      > -M
      >

      The cathode resistor values were selected for a voltage of 170V and with a wire link fitted in place of an anode resistor.For that reason your starting point should be a voltage of 170V and no anode resistor.

      I have had a couple of zm1350's which behaved similarly to yours, and I ran them at about 25% over voltage for an hour which seemed to wake them up
    • Jan Wuesten
      ?? :-) Jan To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com From: guus.assmann@wolmail.nl Date sent: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:48:47 +0100 Subject:
      Message 2 of 23 , Jan 24, 2010
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        ?? :-)


        Jan




        To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
        From: guus.assmann@...
        Date sent: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:48:47 +0100
        Subject: Betr: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
        Send reply to: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com

        > Where did you buy the PCB's ?
        >
        > BR/
        > Guus
        >
        > >To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
        > >From: "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...>
        > >Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:04:10 -0000
        > >Subject: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
        > >Reply-To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
        > >Jan, et al -
        > > In response to your earlier message, I purchased some of the new smartsockets.
        > > I located a source for suitable pins for the ZM1350 that I'm using, and
        > >got those soldered in.
        > >
        > > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group
        > would
        > >apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
        > designators
        > >appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic and assembly
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >



        Mit freundlichen Gruessen---best regards----cordialement

        Dipl.-Ing. Jan Philipp Wuesten

        Frag'Jan zuerst - Ask Jan First GmbH & Co. KG
        Preiler Ring 10 ; D- 25774 Lehe, Germany
        Phone: +49-4882-6054551 Fax : +49-4882-6054552
        <http://www.die-wuestens.de> (Deutsch, English, Francais)
        mail to <FJZ@...> or <FJZ@...>
        HR A4788 PI, Vertretung: Wüsten Verw.GmbH, HR B 6295 PI
        Registergericht Pinneberg. GF: Jan Wüsten
        **************************************************
        Aktuelle Info: Abonnieren Sie unseren Newsletter
        Stay updated: Subscribe to our newsletter:
        Restez en ligne: Abonnez-vous à notre courriel d'information:

        Info: <http://www.wuesten.net/news.htm>
        **************************************************
      • guus.assmann@wolmail.nl
        It is sometimes difficult to read and also understand. This has been cleared by now. Guus
        Message 3 of 23 , Jan 24, 2010
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          It is sometimes difficult to read and also understand.
          This has been cleared by now.

          Guus

          >To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
          >From: "Jan Wuesten" <fjz@...>
          >Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 07:53:31 +0100
          >Subject: Re: Betr: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
          >Reply-To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
          >
          >
          >
          >?? :-)
          >
          >
          >Jan
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >> Where did you buy the PCB's ?
          >>
          >> BR/
          >> Guus
          >>
          >> >To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
          >> >From: "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...>
          >> >Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:04:10 -0000
          >> >Subject: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
          >> >Reply-To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
          >> > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group
          >> would
          >> >apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
          >> designators
          >> >appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic and
          >assembly
        • y2kvaguy
          I just got them from Jan Wuesten.
          Message 4 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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            I just got them from Jan Wuesten.


            --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, guus.assmann@... wrote:
            >
            > Where did you buy the PCB's ?
            >
            > BR/
            > Guus
            >
            > >To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
            > >From: "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...>
            > >Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 22:04:10 -0000
            > >Subject: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
            > >Reply-To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
            > >Jan, et al -
            > > In response to your earlier message, I purchased some of the new smartsockets.
            > > I located a source for suitable pins for the ZM1350 that I'm using, and
            > >got those soldered in.
            > >
            > > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group
            > would
            > >apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
            > designators
            > >appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic and assembly
            >
          • y2kvaguy
            That s the info I was looking for. I ll give that a try. Thanks. -M
            Message 5 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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              That's the info I was looking for. I'll give that a try. Thanks.

              -M


              --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, "fixitsan2" <fixitsan@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@> wrote:
              >
              > > I would also be interested in the voltage and current levels others are using to drive the ZM1350 tube in a non-multiplexed configuration. I've been trying different levels of both current and voltage, and the tubes I have tried can't light up the length of any segment completely without bleeding and generally looking like a poisoned tube.
              > > -M
              > >
              >
              > The cathode resistor values were selected for a voltage of 170V and with a wire link fitted in place of an anode resistor.For that reason your starting point should be a voltage of 170V and no anode resistor.
              >
              > I have had a couple of zm1350's which behaved similarly to yours, and I ran them at about 25% over voltage for an hour which seemed to wake them up
              >
            • y2kvaguy
              I ll check that again, but I have to run off to work just now. Over the weekend, I went ahead and traced out the board and compared it to schematics I could
              Message 6 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                I'll check that again, but I have to run off to work just now. Over the weekend, I went ahead and traced out the board and compared it to schematics I could find. I matched up the resistor values to each segment and mapped that onto my boards. I was unable to determine a definitive reference designator for some of the resistors, but I was able to make sure each segment had the correct value based on older schematics. I'm waiting on the switching transistors to arrive, and when those come, I'll try to fire these up. I also need to figure out how to daisy chain these, since the config is updated from the schematics I've seen so far. Thanks all for the help. I'll try to post results when I get these puppies running.

                -M


                --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, michail1@... wrote:
                >
                > I looked at the link you provided to the website.
                >
                > There is a link to the schematic on it.
                > _http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm_
                > (http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm)
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > In a message dated 1/23/2010 2:05:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, y2kvaguy
                > @... writes:
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > Jan, et al -
                > In response to your earlier message, I purchased some of the new
                > smartsockets. I located a source for suitable pins for the ZM1350 that I'm using,
                > and got those soldered in.
                >
                > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group would
                > apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
                > designators appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic
                > and assembly drawing for these new boards? I checked your (Jan's) website,
                > and eventually the links led to this discussion group. I'm capable of
                > reverse-engineering the PCB and figuring it out myself, but that's a real hassle
                > that I'd like to avoid.
                >
                > I would also be interested in the voltage and current levels others are
                > using to drive the ZM1350 tube in a non-multiplexed configuration. I've been
                > trying different levels of both current and voltage, and the tubes I have
                > tried can't light up the length of any segment completely without bleeding
                > and generally looking like a poisoned tube. I've only tried 2 of the 10 I've
                > purchased, just in case there's something I've done to wreck them. I'm
                > pretty savvy about electronics, but I don't have a lot of specific experience
                > with nixie tubes. I'd really like to get these ZM1350 tubes working, though.
                > I'm powering them with a neonixie supply that is adjustable from about
                > 135-190vdc, and I haven't taken it over about 160.
                >
                > Thanks in advance.
                >
                > -M
                >
                > --- In _smartsockets@smartsocketssma_ (mailto:smartsockets@yahoogroups.com)
                > , "Jan Wuesten" <fjz@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello Group,
                > >
                > > I am happy to announce that the Smartsockets for the ZM1350 Nixie
                > > Varisymbol (Telefunken) are available from stock now.
                > >
                > > We supply
                > >
                > > tubes ZM 1350
                > > the Smartsocket PCB, modified and improved, see below for
                > > modification
                > > the PIC programmed with the software.
                > >
                > > All info, pricing etc. on our site:
                > >
                > > www.askjanfirst. www.askjan
                > >
                > > right below the scopeclock chapter.
                >
              • Jan Wuesten
                ... Hello, in fact I check them all on the original factory tester and many many have flawless lightup but at slightly higher voltages, they seem to be quite
                Message 7 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                  >
                  > > I have had a couple of zm1350's which behaved similarly to yours, and I ran them at about 25% over voltage for an hour which seemed to wake them up
                  > >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  Hello,

                  in fact I check them all on the original factory tester and many many
                  have flawless lightup but at slightly higher voltages, they seem to
                  be quite prone to "in the shelf cathode poisoning".
                  I do not sell any that do not light all segments properly or even
                  miss segments.
                  With slight overvoltage they will recover easily.

                  Jan



                  Mit freundlichen Gruessen---best regards----cordialement

                  Dipl.-Ing. Jan Philipp Wuesten

                  Frag'Jan zuerst - Ask Jan First GmbH & Co. KG
                  Preiler Ring 10 ; D- 25774 Lehe, Germany
                  Phone: +49-4882-6054551 Fax : +49-4882-6054552
                  <http://www.die-wuestens.de> (Deutsch, English, Francais)
                  mail to <FJZ@...> or <FJZ@...>
                  HR A4788 PI, Vertretung: Wüsten Verw.GmbH, HR B 6295 PI
                  Registergericht Pinneberg. GF: Jan Wüsten
                  **************************************************
                  Aktuelle Info: Abonnieren Sie unseren Newsletter
                  Stay updated: Subscribe to our newsletter:
                  Restez en ligne: Abonnez-vous à notre courriel d'information:

                  Info: <http://www.wuesten.net/news.htm>
                  **************************************************
                • guus.assmann@wolmail.nl
                  The PCB s are my design. And Jan has put all of the documentation on line. There s a partlist, with resistor number and value. Also the board has numbers with
                  Message 8 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                    The PCB's are my design.
                    And Jan has put all of the documentation on line.
                    There's a partlist, with resistor number and value.
                    Also the board has numbers with all components. (One or two may be hard to
                    read)
                    But to help that, there's a PDF with all components marked as well.

                    Be carefull with T7, the component outline is wrong. (E and C must be changed)
                    Look where the Emitter is located.

                    Interconnection is also simple. Just connect the adjecent sides 1 to 1.
                    Pin 12 to the processor is the data input for the string.

                    BR/
                    Guus Assmann

                    >From: "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...>
                    >Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 13:42:16 -0000
                    >Subject: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available

                    > I'll check that again, but I have to run off to work just now. Over the
                    >weekend, I went ahead and traced out the board and compared it to schematics
                    >I could find. I matched up the resistor values to each segment and mapped
                    >that onto my boards. I was unable to determine a definitive reference designator
                    >-M
                    >
                  • y2kvaguy
                    Hi, Jan - Yeah, I exchanged messages with you and you mentioned over- something, and I forgot if it was current or voltage, and was unsure about how much. I
                    Message 9 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                      Hi, Jan -
                      Yeah, I exchanged messages with you and you mentioned "over-" something, and I forgot if it was current or voltage, and was unsure about how much. I don't know if the power supplies I'm using will go as much as 25% over-voltage (212v), but they may approach that.

                      I read a rather detailed web page about testing of the ZM1350 tubes, and I'm pretty sure it was one of your pages. You documented the effects of various "error" conditions, for example, what too little or too much voltage did to the display's appearance. Similarly, how to see when you have enough (but not too much) current. It was a very informative discussion, but when I tried to find it again, I couldn't. (sometimes I get too absorbed in the reading, and forget to set a bookmark) There were also links to a couple of videos showing the "dancing segments" test on a good display, and the visually interesting "dancing segments" that resulted from a badly poisoned display. It was the kind of thing that looks really cool, but is probably very difficult to reproduce. I'd like to find that page again.

                      I may have mentioned that I'm a product of the age of transistors and IC's. I don't know how hard or easy it is to "kill" a ZM1350, but I'd rather not perform any destructive testing. If I have to burn them in for a while at elevated voltage, that's fine, I just don't want to cause damage.

                      I'm going to be running these displays unmultiplexed because it's said to be easier on the displays. You don't have to drive them as hard if they're always on, and you don't have the mechanical stress of switching. (Apparently, the segments can make noise if switched hard at audio frequencies.)

                      Well, I'm off to try to find code to emulate something like a FLW/clock. Thanks for the help, folks.

                      -M



                      --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, "Jan Wuesten" <fjz@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > >
                      > > > I have had a couple of zm1350's which behaved similarly to yours, and I ran them at about 25% over voltage for an hour which seemed to wake them up
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > Hello,
                      >
                      > in fact I check them all on the original factory tester and many many
                      > have flawless lightup but at slightly higher voltages, they seem to
                      > be quite prone to "in the shelf cathode poisoning".
                      > I do not sell any that do not light all segments properly or even
                      > miss segments.
                      > With slight overvoltage they will recover easily.
                      >
                      > Jan
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Mit freundlichen Gruessen---best regards----cordialement
                      >
                      > Dipl.-Ing. Jan Philipp Wuesten
                      >
                      > Frag'Jan zuerst - Ask Jan First GmbH & Co. KG
                      > Preiler Ring 10 ; D- 25774 Lehe, Germany
                      > Phone: +49-4882-6054551 Fax : +49-4882-6054552
                      > <http://www.die-wuestens.de> (Deutsch, English, Francais)
                      > mail to <FJZ@...> or <FJZ@...>
                      > HR A4788 PI, Vertretung: Wüsten Verw.GmbH, HR B 6295 PI
                      > Registergericht Pinneberg. GF: Jan Wüsten
                      > **************************************************
                      > Aktuelle Info: Abonnieren Sie unseren Newsletter
                      > Stay updated: Subscribe to our newsletter:
                      > Restez en ligne: Abonnez-vous à notre courriel d'information:
                      >
                      > Info: <http://www.wuesten.net/news.htm>
                      > **************************************************
                      >
                    • y2kvaguy
                      Doh! That schematic isn t up to date. That schematic shows J1 with 5 pins. I don t have a board with me to compare reference designators, but my boards have
                      Message 10 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                        Doh! That schematic isn't up to date. That schematic shows J1 with 5 pins. I don't have a board with me to compare reference designators, but my boards have J1 and J2, each of which has 4 pins, rather than 5. I've figured out where to wire the power supplies, but not which pins are "data in" versus "data out." I suppose I can find out via experimentation.

                        Aside from the documentation, I like these Smartsockets. There was obviously a bit of thought that went into the design, and they're nice and compact. I dismantled an old 68030 PGA socket (remember those?) and used the pins for my ZM1350s. They're a nice snug fit on the pins, and they work well in the Smartsocket. Note: if anyone else tries this approach, make sure that the pins will fit the ZM1350 BEFORE going to all the trouble. I have more than one of these sockets, and not all of them will accept the pins of the ZM1350.

                        Anyway, before I trash up the forum with asked-and-answered questions, I'm off to troll about the archives. Thanks for the help.

                        -M


                        --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, michail1@... wrote:
                        >
                        > I looked at the link you provided to the website.
                        >
                        > There is a link to the schematic on it.
                        > _http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm_
                        > (http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm)
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > In a message dated 1/23/2010 2:05:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, y2kvaguy
                        > @... writes:
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Jan, et al -
                        > In response to your earlier message, I purchased some of the new
                        > smartsockets. I located a source for suitable pins for the ZM1350 that I'm using,
                        > and got those soldered in.
                        >
                        > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group would
                        > apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
                        > designators appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic
                        > and assembly drawing for these new boards? I checked your (Jan's) website,
                        > and eventually the links led to this discussion group. I'm capable of
                        > reverse-engineering the PCB and figuring it out myself, but that's a real hassle
                        > that I'd like to avoid.
                        >
                        > I would also be interested in the voltage and current levels others are
                        > using to drive the ZM1350 tube in a non-multiplexed configuration. I've been
                        > trying different levels of both current and voltage, and the tubes I have
                        > tried can't light up the length of any segment completely without bleeding
                        > and generally looking like a poisoned tube. I've only tried 2 of the 10 I've
                        > purchased, just in case there's something I've done to wreck them. I'm
                        > pretty savvy about electronics, but I don't have a lot of specific experience
                        > with nixie tubes. I'd really like to get these ZM1350 tubes working, though.
                        > I'm powering them with a neonixie supply that is adjustable from about
                        > 135-190vdc, and I haven't taken it over about 160.
                        >
                        > Thanks in advance.
                        >
                        > -M
                        >
                        > --- In _smartsockets@smartsocketssma_ (mailto:smartsockets@yahoogroups.com)
                        > , "Jan Wuesten" <fjz@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Hello Group,
                        > >
                        > > I am happy to announce that the Smartsockets for the ZM1350 Nixie
                        > > Varisymbol (Telefunken) are available from stock now.
                        > >
                        > > We supply
                        > >
                        > > tubes ZM 1350
                        > > the Smartsocket PCB, modified and improved, see below for
                        > > modification
                        > > the PIC programmed with the software.
                        > >
                        > > All info, pricing etc. on our site:
                        > >
                        > > www.askjanfirst. www.askjan
                        > >
                        > > right below the scopeclock chapter.
                        >
                      • y2kvaguy
                        By the way. While the schematic isn t up to date, as I said, it s MUCH cleaner than the one I had. Thanks. =M
                        Message 11 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                          By the way. While the schematic isn't up to date, as I said, it's MUCH cleaner than the one I had. Thanks.
                          =M


                          --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > Doh! That schematic isn't up to date. That schematic shows J1 with 5 pins. I don't have a board with me to compare reference designators, but my boards have J1 and J2, each of which has 4 pins, rather than 5. I've figured out where to wire the power supplies, but not which pins are "data in" versus "data out." I suppose I can find out via experimentation.
                          >
                          > Aside from the documentation, I like these Smartsockets. There was obviously a bit of thought that went into the design, and they're nice and compact. I dismantled an old 68030 PGA socket (remember those?) and used the pins for my ZM1350s. They're a nice snug fit on the pins, and they work well in the Smartsocket. Note: if anyone else tries this approach, make sure that the pins will fit the ZM1350 BEFORE going to all the trouble. I have more than one of these sockets, and not all of them will accept the pins of the ZM1350.
                          >
                          > Anyway, before I trash up the forum with asked-and-answered questions, I'm off to troll about the archives. Thanks for the help.
                          >
                          > -M
                          >
                          >
                          > --- In smartsockets@yahoogroups.com, michail1@ wrote:
                          > >
                          > > I looked at the link you provided to the website.
                          > >
                          > > There is a link to the schematic on it.
                          > > _http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm_
                          > > (http://www.askjanfirst.com/dindex.htm?/r5.htm)
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > In a message dated 1/23/2010 2:05:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, y2kvaguy
                          > > @... writes:
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Jan, et al -
                          > > In response to your earlier message, I purchased some of the new
                          > > smartsockets. I located a source for suitable pins for the ZM1350 that I'm using,
                          > > and got those soldered in.
                          > >
                          > > I was hoping that the documentation in the files area on this group would
                          > > apply, but apparently, the boards I have are a respin and the reference
                          > > designators appear to have changed. Where can I find an up-to-date schematic
                          > > and assembly drawing for these new boards? I checked your (Jan's) website,
                          > > and eventually the links led to this discussion group. I'm capable of
                          > > reverse-engineering the PCB and figuring it out myself, but that's a real hassle
                          > > that I'd like to avoid.
                          > >
                          > > I would also be interested in the voltage and current levels others are
                          > > using to drive the ZM1350 tube in a non-multiplexed configuration. I've been
                          > > trying different levels of both current and voltage, and the tubes I have
                          > > tried can't light up the length of any segment completely without bleeding
                          > > and generally looking like a poisoned tube. I've only tried 2 of the 10 I've
                          > > purchased, just in case there's something I've done to wreck them. I'm
                          > > pretty savvy about electronics, but I don't have a lot of specific experience
                          > > with nixie tubes. I'd really like to get these ZM1350 tubes working, though.
                          > > I'm powering them with a neonixie supply that is adjustable from about
                          > > 135-190vdc, and I haven't taken it over about 160.
                          > >
                          > > Thanks in advance.
                          > >
                          > > -M
                          > >
                          > > --- In _smartsockets@smartsocketssma_ (mailto:smartsockets@yahoogroups.com)
                          > > , "Jan Wuesten" <fjz@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > Hello Group,
                          > > >
                          > > > I am happy to announce that the Smartsockets for the ZM1350 Nixie
                          > > > Varisymbol (Telefunken) are available from stock now.
                          > > >
                          > > > We supply
                          > > >
                          > > > tubes ZM 1350
                          > > > the Smartsocket PCB, modified and improved, see below for
                          > > > modification
                          > > > the PIC programmed with the software.
                          > > >
                          > > > All info, pricing etc. on our site:
                          > > >
                          > > > www.askjanfirst. www.askjan
                          > > >
                          > > > right below the scopeclock chapter.
                          > >
                          >
                        • Jan Wuesten
                          To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com From: y2kvaguy Date sent: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:54:31 -0000 Subject:
                          Message 12 of 23 , Jan 25, 2010
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                            To: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com
                            From: "y2kvaguy" <y2kvaguy@...>
                            Date sent: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:54:31 -0000
                            Subject: [smartsockets] Re: ZM 1350 Varisymbol smartsockets available
                            Send reply to: smartsockets@yahoogroups.com

                            > Hi, Jan -
                            > Yeah, I exchanged messages with you and you mentioned "over-" something, and I forgot if it was current or voltage, and was unsure about how much. I don't know if the power supplies I'm using will go as much as 25% over-voltage (212v), but they may approach that.
                            >
                            > I read a rather detailed web page about testing of the ZM1350 tubes, and I'm pretty sure it was one of your pages. You documented the effects of various "error" conditions, for example, what too little or too much voltage did to the display's appearance. Similarly, how to see when you have enough (but not too much) current. It was a very informative discussion, but when I tried to find it again, I couldn't. (sometimes I get too absorbed in the reading, and forget to set a bookmark) There were also
                            links to a couple of videos showing the "dancing segments" test on a
                            good display, and the visually interesting "dancing segments" that
                            resulted from a badly poisoned display. It was the kind of thing
                            that looks really cool, but is probably very difficult to reproduce.
                            I'd like to find that page again.


                            if it was mine it´s www.askjanfirst.com/zm1350.htm


                            >
                            > I may have mentioned that I'm a product of the
                            age of transistors and IC's. I don't know how hard or
                            easy it is to "kill" a ZM1350, but I'd rather not perform
                            any destructive testing. If I have to burn them
                            in for a while at elevated voltage, that's fine,
                            I just don't want to cause damage.
                            >

                            it won´t.

                            its far easier to destroy if you drop it from the table ;-))


                            > I'm going to be running these displays unmultiplexed
                            because it's said to be easier on the displays.
                            You don't have to drive them as hard if they're always on,
                            and you don't have the mechanical stress of switching.
                            (Apparently, the segments can make noise if switched
                            hard at audio frequencies.)

                            this is far more of concern with usual nixies as their electrodes are
                            hanging free.
                            The ZM1350 electrodes are tied to the bootom plate of the tube and
                            should be quiet.

                            >
                            > Well, I'm off to try to find code to emulate something
                            like a FLW/clock.

                            there is some stuff in the neonixie-L- archives

                            Jan



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