Re: molybdenum disulfide based lubricant (also for turtle wax)
> Did you apply the Molybdenum on the teflon pads, the base, or both?I applied to the base. Then *very important* all grease in excess (that which is pushed at
the side of pads raceways, and/or which collects on the lateral faces of the pads, *must be
What works for stiction is the solid lubricant (either graphyte or molybdenum). It reduces
the start/up force. The oil/grease works for friction: it reduces friction when the speed is
not zero. It does that by providing a *hydrodynamic* lubrication. You do not want that
because the decrease of friction after break-away is the cause of jumpy motion!. Thus you
have to remove all lubricant in excess (absorb it with a tissue) which might otherwise re-
enter between pads and base causing sudden decrease of friction and stick slip.
"Normal" lubricants (i.e. those which have not any anti-stiction additive -solid lubricants-)
canot work because when the motion stops they slowly creep out of the pads (or in small
pockets). Thus friction force increases after the stop (gradually in time). Then, at break-
away the lubricant re-emnters and cause stick slip.
What basically should be obtained is a overcoating of solid lubricant (graphyte or
molibdenum) onto the base. I found a combination of grease/molibdenum (but the
interest is onloy for the latter). There also exists molykote, which is a breed of different
lubricants. One of these is made of a dispersed phase of mylibdenum into a polimer.
When spayed onto a surface the polimer forms a thin solid polimeric matrix that embeds
grains of the solid lubricants. In operation wear exposes the solid lubricants. I would like
to try it (but I did not find it within the 500 meter accepted distance from my home ;-).
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Phil Lefever
> For my scope I ended up laminating the rocker box base with EbonyStar
> and swapped the stock PTFE pads for virgin Teflon ones. I clean the_tiny_
> azimuth bearings about every 4th time I use the scope and apply a
> trace of Carnauba paste auto wax. This is the best combination Ihave
> come up with.When you relubricate, do you have to separate the base plate (the
piece that rests directly on the ground) from the rocker box (the
that rotates on the azimuth axis bolt) so as to reach the teflon pads
for cleaning and rewaxing,
or is it sufficient for you to just turn the whole assembly upside
down and clean and rewax only the bottom of the rocker box, rotating
the base plate as you do so, so as to eventually rewax the entire
bottom of the rocker box?
This assumes that your base plate, like mine, is a triangle that
allows you to see about half of the bottom of the rocker box without
>When you relubricate, do you have to separate the base plate (theGene,
>piece that rests directly on the ground) from the rocker box (the
>that rotates on the azimuth axis bolt) so as to reach the teflon pads
>for cleaning and rewaxing,
>or is it sufficient for you to just turn the whole assembly upside
>down and clean and rewax only the bottom of the rocker box, rotating
>the base plate as you do so, so as to eventually rewax the entire
>bottom of the rocker box?
>This assumes that your base plate, like mine, is a triangle that
>allows you to see about half of the bottom of the rocker box without
I have the same original GS made XT-10 as you do with the triangular
ground board. The triangular board is a mixed blessing as it exposes
the bearings to dew and dirt but allows easier cleaning.
When I clean and wax I usually just rotate the ground board and clean
and wax the bearing radius on the rocker box base. Every once and again
I will pull the base apart to really clean the pads and look for any
embedded particles in the Teflon.
When I was the Ebony Star it is pretty sparingly and I wait for it to
dry then I buff as much off as possible. My wax of choice is Eagle 1
Pure Carnauba paste.
Phil Lefever - Burnsville, MN
Amateur Radio Callsign - KB0NES EN34jt
C8-SP XT-10 C102 80WV
MNAA & MAS Member