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Re: [sig] Linen weight

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  • Mikhail Nicholaev
    Thanks so much for all the responses, and thanks Lente for your response with info on Silk, I was about to ask about it as well. I ll probably go hit up the
    Message 1 of 11 , Jul 16, 2004
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      Thanks so much for all the responses, and thanks Lente for your response
      with info on Silk, I was about to ask about it as well. I'll probably go
      hit up the local fabric store this weekend and see what they have.

      One question which got overshadowed was about clasps for the neck. I
      have a friend who does bone work and she suggested toggles. Does anyone
      know if bone was used for these or were they wood and precious metal?

      --
      Vsegda k vashim uslugam
      Ever at your Service
      Pomestnik Mikhail Nicholaev
      http://www.argenthawk.com/penning/

      Head of the
      House of St. Ambrose

      Lente wrote:
      > I am cutting and pasting from another list that someone posted these linen
      > weights and silk weights. hope this helps.--kathws
      >
      > These are the general recommendations for linen weights. I didn't write
      > them- I don't remember who did, unfortunately!
      >
      > Hanky Linen (usually 3.5 oz) - Good for veils, chemises, linings, etc.
      >
      > Lightweight linen (usually 3.6-4.2 oz) - Good for veils, chemises, linings,
      > tunics when you'll be wearing two or more, skirts (again, if you'll be
      > layering) harem pants, etc.
      >
      > Medium weight linen (usually 4.3-5.5 oz) - Good for tunics, skirts, bodices,
      >
      > most any type of gown. The most common weight used in garb.
      >
      > Heavy weight linen (5.6-7.2 oz and beyond) - Good for heavy-duty garb like
      > fencing vests and pants, garb that will get much stress put on it like
      > side-laced bliauts, etc. The 5.6 range is good for back-laced cotehardies.
      > Line a coat
      > weight wool cloak in 7.2 oz linen and you'll never go cold, though you might
      >
      > faint from exhaustion after walking round all day in it. Good bed blanket,
      > that.
      >
      > ---
      >
      > As for silk, I can make a few garb recommendations based on weight, though
      > everyone's welcome to chime in and tell me that I'm completely wrong! Silk
      > generally goes by mm weight- that is, momme (pronounced "mummy", I think),
      > though
      > heavy weight silks, such as suiting silks, go by grams or have no weight
      > listed.
      >
      > 1-8 mm: These are usually sheer or semisheer, and quite wispy. I've never
      > seen anything below 3 or 3.5 mm, which is very airy, transparent silk gauze.
      >
      > Lighter weight habotai (habutai, also called "China silk") falls into this
      > category, as does lighter-weight chiffon (not georgette, it seems) and
      > organza
      > (other than "heavy" organza).
      >
      > 10-18mm: Ten mm or so seems to be when things begin to become solid rather
      > than sheer, though 12mm is still quite light. Silk satin (not heavy bridal
      > satin) is in this area, as are some habotais, georgettes, heavy organza,
      > some
      > charmeuse, most crepe de chine. Most jacquards also fall into this
      > category, as
      > do some tussahs.
      >
      > 18mm and up: Heavier weight silk. Most charmeuse, some crepe de chine.
      > Some
      > jacquards, some dupioni (Chinese dupioni, as seen at Silk Connection, is
      > 19mm). Tussah boucle, some other tussahs, heavy bridal satin (23mm), heavy
      > charmeuse.
      >
      > The weights given are all from www.silkconnection.com. Silk taffeta was not
      > given a weight but is considered "lightweight" (I'm not sure if that makes
      > it sheer or not- some taffetas seem to be sheer, others are quite opaque).
      > Fuji broadcloth is measured in pound-weights (10lb), silk noil did not have
      > a
      > weight listing but can be lightweight or heavier (I have noil thin enough
      > that it needed a backing). Silk/rayon velvets, burnout and solid, are not
      > given
      > weights but are generally considered to be heavy in large quantities <g>.
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
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