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help with early 16th Century cossack garb

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  • wyldflower68
    Hello - I m having some difficulties in researching early cossack garb so I can get my own constructed! Can anyone direct me to resources that would provide
    Message 1 of 10 , Jun 3, 2004
      Hello -

      I'm having some difficulties in researching early cossack garb so I
      can get my own constructed! Can anyone direct me to resources that
      would provide information about what was worn circa 1520 - 1560? Most
      of what I've been able to find so far refers to 17th century and
      later. References are made to early Cossacks, but usually that's
      about it.

      I'm not particular about region, (Don, Dniepper, Zaporizhya etc). Any
      information or suggestions would be gratefully welcomed.

      YIS

      Marka
    • MoxFool@aol.com
      In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:37:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, daisydld@hotmail.com writes: Hello - I m having some difficulties in researching early cossack
      Message 2 of 10 , Jun 3, 2004
        In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:37:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
        daisydld@... writes:
        Hello -

        I'm having some difficulties in researching early cossack garb so I
        can get my own constructed! Can anyone direct me to resources that
        would provide information about what was worn circa 1520 - 1560? Most
        of what I've been able to find so far refers to 17th century and
        later. References are made to early Cossacks, but usually that's
        about it.

        I'm not particular about region, (Don, Dniepper, Zaporizhya etc). Any
        information or suggestions would be gratefully welcomed.

        YIS

        Marka

        Have you tried the Osprey book "Polish Armies 2"?

        Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski, House Griffin's Moon
        Middle Kingdom, Barony of the Northwoods, The Shire of Talonval
        Student of THL Albyn Buckthorne, C.B.R., Sword Brother


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • wyldflower68
        No, I haven t looked at that one - I ll give it a try. Thanks so much :) Marka [Edited by moderator. Clip your posts.]
        Message 3 of 10 , Jun 14, 2004
          No, I haven't looked at that one - I'll give it a try. Thanks so
          much :)

          Marka


          [Edited by moderator. Clip your posts.]


          > Have you tried the Osprey book "Polish Armies 2"?
          >
          > Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski, House Griffin's Moon
          > Middle Kingdom, Barony of the Northwoods, The Shire of Talonval
          > Student of THL Albyn Buckthorne, C.B.R., Sword Brother
        • Tim Nalley
          I like that one too. Have you tried the Bayda Books one listed in the SIG Bibliography? Its secondary and more than a litle derivative but very illustrative.
          Message 4 of 10 , Jun 15, 2004
            I like that one too. Have you tried the Bayda Books
            one listed in the SIG Bibliography? Its secondary and
            more than a litle derivative but very illustrative.
            Perfect for the beginner, with the advantage of a wide
            base of clothing styles, at least half of which is
            17th century but who's counting?
            'dak

            ps. Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski: I've really enjoyed your
            commentary on Zagloba's Tavern.

            --- wyldflower68 <daisydld@...> wrote:
            > No, I haven't looked at that one - I'll give it a
            > try. Thanks so
            > much :)
            >
            > Marka
            >
            >
            > [Edited by moderator. Clip your posts.]
            >
            >
            > > Have you tried the Osprey book "Polish Armies 2"?
            > >
            > > Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski, House Griffin's Moon
            > > Middle Kingdom, Barony of the Northwoods, The
            > Shire of Talonval
            > > Student of THL Albyn Buckthorne, C.B.R., Sword
            > Brother
            >
            >




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          • MoxFool@aol.com
            In a message dated 6/15/2004 10:02:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mordakus@yahoo.com writes: ps. Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski: I ve really enjoyed your commentary on
            Message 5 of 10 , Jun 15, 2004
              In a message dated 6/15/2004 10:02:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
              mordakus@... writes:
              ps. Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski: I've really enjoyed your
              commentary on Zagloba's Tavern.

              Thanks 'dak! IMO, we in the historical recreation (not a typo!) hobby need to
              stick together. :D

              Pan Zygmunt Nadratowski, House Griffin's Moon
              Middle Kingdom, Barony of the Northwoods, The Shire of Talonval
              Student of THL Albyn Buckthorne, C.B.R., Sword Brother
              You read about all these Terrorists who hung around on these expired visas,
              some for as long as 10-15 years. Now, compare that to Blockbuster; if you are
              two days late with a video, those people are all over you. I think we should
              put Blockbuster in charge of Homeland Security...


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Mark S. Wolf (Janushonis, Zikowski)
              Acording to Irena Turnau I history of dress in central and eastern europe from the 16th to the 18th C , chapter VIII the dress of the ukrainians and
              Message 6 of 10 , Jun 17, 2004
                Acording to Irena Turnau I "history of dress in central and eastern europe from the 16th
                to the 18th C", chapter VIII the dress of the ukrainians and belorussians,

                section 1 a cultural borderland.

                ...the relations and drawings left by foreign travellers did not always differentiate between
                various types of costumes, with garments being cut in the simplest way from homespun,
                undyed woollen or linen, the regional differences showed in headgear, colours and
                accessories.

                section 2 the dress of the ukrainian nobility and burghers

                (if you want this section ask other wise I really dont feel like typing it sorry)

                section 3 cossack dress.

                cossack garments were as diversified as the social status of their owners. they formed a
                kind of military uniform, or manifested the wearer's wish to assimilate into the Polish
                nobility, although their everyday version could be more easily associated with folk
                costumes. in the 16th c. the simpleist cossack outfit consisted of a shirt, a pair of linen
                bloomers, a caftan and a cap. better clothes were plundered during campaigns in
                moldavia, walachia and turkey, or in Polish manors and burghers' homes. having killed a
                tartar, a cossack "stripped him of his shoes, clothes and headgear"6. A sixteenth c
                traveller noted that cossacks "like to deck themselves with garments robbed from their
                neighbours, though normally they wear rather ordinary clothes"7. the fact that luxurious
                garments were relatively easy to obtain led to ostentatious squander, which was
                considered the special cossack chic. a jew from Kahorlik near Human descrided cossacks
                wearing "navy-blue bloomers with gold galloon, white satin zupans (polish under kaftan),
                crimson Kontuszes (Polish over Kaftans) with hanging facings, ilk sashes with gold fringes
                and high caps of grey sheep fleece". after a feast the cossacks destroyed the expensive
                garments by dipping them into birch tar and left in their ordinary sermegas (pesants
                kaftan of simple cut sewn of homespun woolen) and shirts tallowed against insects 8.

                In the 16th c. the specific features of cossack dress became conspicuous. cossacks
                incorporated into the Polish army were alloted some woolen for uniform outfits. woolen
                caftans were more suitable for the army than waist-long tartar shirts, woollen breeches or
                bloomers, cotton-quilted jackets and sheepskin coats. the cossack military outfit
                developed in the 17th c. thewide bloomers originated from turkish dress, while caps with
                wide, soft tops and fur trimming might have resulted from imitating russian headgear.
                shirts with small collars, the girdled zupans, and kapotas ( polish and ukrainian; men's
                and woman's hooded coat, or men's garment worn over the zupan in 17th - 19th c.,
                usually sewn of woollen cloth with unslashed sleeves and folds down the waist at the back,
                trimmed with braid.) with elongated pockets and passementerie trimming and the delias
                (most common polish over kaftan late 16th early 17th c.) with silk sashes used bt officers
                were close to Polish national dress. preserved cossack garments resemble the kontusz
                and the zupan in cut 9. cossack boots, found at the field of the Beresteczko battle (faught
                in 1651 during a cossack anti-polish uprising) have high tops extended at the front and
                flat soles with rounded toes 10.

                ...cossacks' wives were village girls. W. Beauplan described a bride's attire from the 17th
                c., which was a brown woollen gown stiffened with whalebone and decorated with ribbons
                13. it seems to be a burgher dress, applird quite incidentally, rather than a typical rite
                vestment.
              • Susan Koziel
                ... Yes :) Please :) Pretty Please? I d really appreciate it, but if you haven t the time I ll understand. -Kataryna Contact me off list about this. Thanks.
                Message 7 of 10 , Jun 18, 2004
                  --- "Mark S. Wolf (Janushonis, Zikowski)"
                  <presswolf@...> wrote:

                  > section 2 the dress of the ukrainian nobility and
                  > burghers
                  >
                  > (if you want this section ask other wise I really
                  > dont feel like typing it sorry)
                  >

                  Yes :)
                  Please :)
                  Pretty Please?
                  I'd really appreciate it, but if you haven't the time
                  I'll understand.
                  -Kataryna
                  Contact me off list about this. Thanks.
                • Mark S. Wolf (Janushonis, Zikowski)
                  ... The meiaeval Ruthenian dress, affected by Byzantine and tartar costumes, has been presented in the previous chapter. In the 16th c. the decisive factor
                  Message 8 of 10 , Jun 18, 2004
                    > > section 2 the dress of the ukrainian nobility and burghers

                    The meiaeval Ruthenian dress, affected by Byzantine and tartar costumes, has been
                    presented in the previous chapter. In the 16th c. the decisive factor was the influence of
                    the Polish national dress, which was transferred by Polish settlers and wealthy burghers.
                    quite often runaway peasants robbed Polish outfits, which helped them disguise their class
                    status in ruthenia 3. the men wore knee length shirts, linen underpants and breeches
                    which resembled eastern bloomers. over the shirt they wore a caftan, usually with sleeves
                    and a stand-up collar. those better-off had several coats which were worn one over
                    another. the zupan reached down to the feet and was tight-waisted, usually with a turn-
                    down collar; in the 18th c. it became considerably shorter. The Kapota was trimmed with
                    passementerie bands and widened with gussets arranged in three folds at the back... the
                    fur coats like bekiesza (polish - a fur lined winter overcoat of loose cut, with folds at the
                    back, worn since end of the 16th c.), tuluo (rus, ukr - a fur lined peasant overcoat of
                    simple cut), or oponcha (ukr - fur lined overcoat) modelled after the yepancha (rus - a
                    waterproof coat made of woollen cloth or felt), resembled russian garments. some caps
                    were similar to the Polish ones with fur trimming, some to the russian treukh (Rus - men's
                    cap made of three parts, covering the nape and ears, sewn most often from pelt). the
                    outfit was completed by hugh boots 4. abundant passementerie decorations could indicate
                    some hungarian influences.

                    Women's chemises were crinkled and widened with gussets, their sleeves and collars were
                    adorned with embroidery or drawn-work/hem-stitch. russian ponezas (Rus - a folk skirt
                    made of two aprons) were not worn, instead long skirts decorated with bands or galloon
                    were in use. other popular garments were corsets with flaps at the waist, jackets called
                    katankas and coats resembling those worn by men, for example A. Rigelman's drawing
                    shows a coat with hanging, decorative sleeves. sayan was a skirt made of patterned
                    fabric, worn by townswomen with a bestorg (ukr - women's corset following western
                    fashion), that is a sleeveless corset trimmed with galloon or metal lace 5. the diverse
                    influences crossing at that area did not interfere with the development of costumes which
                    exhibited a certain degree of originality.
                  • Tim Nalley
                    Greetings Fellow SIG Fanatics from dak: I am officially recruiting teachers for the 2004 Known World Costumers Symposeum to be held September 24-26, 2004 in
                    Message 9 of 10 , Jun 22, 2004
                      Greetings Fellow SIG Fanatics from 'dak:
                      I am officially recruiting teachers for the 2004
                      Known World Costumers Symposeum to be held September
                      24-26, 2004 in Canton, Ohio. What I need are
                      instructors in non-western europeon costuming and
                      accessories. ie. Eastern Europe through Asia to the
                      Pacific Ocean. I've left a full 1/3 of class hours
                      open to this category in the Expert, Accessories and
                      beginner tracts, with all the non-europen tract hours.
                      Beginners classes are especially sought after for the
                      beginners class tracts.
                      I need a class title, class time peiod needed,
                      your entire SCA name amd a 2 sentence description. If
                      I don't know you or haven't seen your class, the event
                      autocrat wants sponsorship by a peer from your area
                      and contact info. for continuity. A bit paronoid but I
                      only serve. If needs be, send me your class manual and
                      I'll sponsor you as a peer.
                      Time is of the essence though as I'm also posting
                      to several other non-european costumer sites. I've
                      seen the excellent work that many in SIG are doing and
                      I would be happy and obnoxiously proud to include our
                      members on the teaching Roster. I'll also accept
                      references to other artisans that you feel may have an
                      interest in teaching at an Inter-Kingdom event,
                      outside the usual Regional War setting.



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                    • Tim Nalley
                      ... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
                      Message 10 of 10 , Jun 23, 2004
                        > Greetings Fellow SIG Fanatics from 'dak:
                        > I am officially recruiting teachers for the
                        > 2004
                        > Known World Costumers Symposeum to be held September
                        > 24-26, 2004 in Canton, Ohio. What I need are
                        > instructors in non-western europeon costuming and
                        > accessories. ie. Eastern Europe through Asia to the
                        > Pacific Ocean. I've left a full 1/3 of class hours
                        > open to this category in the Expert, Accessories and
                        > beginner tracts, with all the non-europen tract
                        > hours.
                        > Beginners classes are especially sought after for
                        > the
                        > beginners class tracts.
                        > I need a class title, class time peiod needed,
                        > your entire SCA name amd a 2 sentence description.
                        > If
                        > I don't know you or haven't seen your class, the
                        > event
                        > autocrat wants sponsorship by a peer from your area
                        > and contact info. for continuity. A bit paronoid but
                        > I
                        > only serve. If needs be, send me your class manual
                        > and
                        > I'll sponsor you as a peer.
                        > Time is of the essence though as I'm also
                        > posting
                        > to several other non-european costumer sites. I've
                        > seen the excellent work that many in SIG are doing
                        > and
                        > I would be happy and obnoxiously proud to include
                        > our
                        > members on the teaching Roster. I'll also accept
                        > references to other artisans that you feel may have
                        > an
                        > interest in teaching at an Inter-Kingdom event,
                        > outside the usual Regional War setting.
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > __________________________________
                        > Do you Yahoo!?
                        > Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
                        > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
                        >




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