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'daks Letnik musings

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  • Tim Nalley
    Privyat from dak, Just some thoughts on the letnik, forgive me if these points are repeats. The paucity of resources have encouraged my extrapolations. There
    Message 1 of 2 , Jun 27, 2003
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      Privyat from 'dak,
      Just some thoughts on the letnik, forgive me if
      these points are repeats. The paucity of resources
      have encouraged my extrapolations.
      There are a couple "decent" references for the
      letnik, some descriptive and others merely
      illustrative (See the Russian Costumes 10th-17th
      Centuries by Bayda Books). All have cites in the SIG
      Biblio online. The letnik is a version of the angel
      winged Byzantine dalmatica, if period sources such as
      Crumney's "Rude and Barbarous Kingdom" are to be
      believed.
      Debate still rages about openings, slit, keyhole
      or open front as well as closures, but one thing is
      certain, the Russian letnik's bottom of the angel wing
      sleeve was slit open along half the seam. I always
      wondered this until I had seen some worn by
      boiariniias I know. The slit allows the sleeve lining,
      usually cloth of gold for the wealthy , to be seen
      clearly when the sleeve rotates during wearing. Simple
      opuleance.
      Personally, I believe in common sense
      extrapolation when designing and determining the
      materials for a costume. Heavy for winter, light for
      summer, fur edging with silk or velvet edging with
      brocade, complimentary cotton prints for edging and
      body of the garment when going summerwieght washable.
      Most important, Russians are extremely pragmatic now
      and probably in period, so the openings are bigger for
      wieghtier fabrics or garments designed for heat for
      the same reason, heat regulation.
      Utility wise, it's use in later period Russia
      seems to correspond to the modern day ensemble from
      Ann Taylor; dressy, quasi-formal and tasteful.
      Just some thoughts.



      --- "J.A. Hayworth, M.D." <Phoenix7th@...>
      wrote:
      > ...or, rather, the fact that I'm scratching my head
      > over it. I'm
      > considering making one because it'd be nice to have
      > light, loose-fitting
      > garb for the summer. However, I can't find much
      > information at the moment
      > (haven't gone over to the library yet), so I was
      > hoping someone could either
      > answer some of my questions, or point me in the
      > direction of a good
      > resource.
      >
      > So, here we are:
      > 1. The letnik supposedly has long, full sleeves.
      > Some sources say that
      > these long, full sleeves are slit to the elbow,
      > while some sources make no
      > mention of a slit. Which is correct-- or, are both
      > correct?
      > 2. Is the neckline like the slit-opening of the
      > rubakha, or is it a
      > different shape? Does it have fastenings (which
      > would probably be cloth or
      > beads, from what I can tell).
      >
      >
      > Thanks, everyone. I have to say, I've enjoyed this
      > list immensely,
      > particularly when we get into bits of contested
      > history.
      >
      > Varja (previously Ryska, but since my bard friend
      > keeps insisting on singing
      > "Varya Likes to Hit Things," my baptismal name
      > appears to have stuck)
      >
      >
      _________________________________________________________________
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      >


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