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rubakha question

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• OK, if I take a piece of fabric and lay it out, how do I figure out how big to make the gores? Also, how do I figure out the measurement for the sleeves--how
Message 1 of 4 , Oct 18, 1999
OK, if I take a piece of fabric and lay it out, how do I figure out how big
to make the gores? Also, how do I figure out the measurement for the
sleeves--how do you make them fit the holes? My first "rubakha" was a
t-tunic; I'd like to make another one after reading that terrific site on
Kiev Rus costuming. Then I can get going on that navershnik.

Dekuji!
Isabelle

patricia.hefner@...
• ... I ve been known to measure from where I want the point of the gore to hit on me (usually my hip) to the ground, and make that the hypotenuse of the
Message 2 of 4 , Oct 18, 1999
--- Patricia Hefner <patricia.hefner@...>
wrote:
> From: "Patricia Hefner"
> <patricia.hefner@...>
>
> OK, if I take a piece of fabric and lay it out, how
> do I figure out how big
> to make the gores?

I've been known to measure from where I want the point
of the gore to hit on me (usually my hip) to the
ground, and make that the hypotenuse of the triangle
to make the gore. How wide you make the triangle is
up to you.

Also, how do I figure out the
> measurement for the
> sleeves--how do you make them fit the holes?

You don't, exactly... Rubahkas, as far as I can tell,
were of rectangular construction. Cut the front and
back and sew the gores to the sides. Sew the shoulder
seam. Do the neckline however you usually do; it's a
lot easier to work on before you get the sleeves on.

Cut two rectangles of appropriate length and width for
sleeves, and cut two squares (5"x5" would probably be
okay). Cut the squares in half diagonally. These are
your gussets. Sew one side of the square to the end
of the sleeve (the end that will be attached to the
body of the garment) so that the right angle is
touching the sleeve. Do this on both sides of the
sleeve.

______________
\ | | / The triangles here are
\| |/ the gussets.
| |

Fold the sleeve in half the long way, wrong sides
together, to find the center point. Lay the center
point on the shoulder seam, right sides together, and
sew the sleeve to the body of the garment. Do this
for both sleeves.

Fold the body in half, right sides together, and sew
up the sides. Hem the bottom and taper the sleeves as
you wish and there you have it!

My
> first "rubakha" was a
> t-tunic; I'd like to make another one after reading
> that terrific site on
> Kiev Rus costuming. Then I can get going on that
> navershnik.
>
> Dekuji!
> Isabelle
>
> patricia.hefner@...
>

Tasha
• In a message dated 10/18/1999 5:17:46 AM Central Daylight Time, ... I made the rubakha from Giliarovskaia s book on costuming: she based the pattern on the one
Message 3 of 4 , Oct 18, 1999
In a message dated 10/18/1999 5:17:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
patricia.hefner@... writes:

> OK, if I take a piece of fabric and lay it out, how do I figure out how big
> to make the gores? Also, how do I figure out the measurement for the
> sleeves--how do you make them fit the holes?

I made the rubakha from Giliarovskaia's book on costuming: she based the
pattern on the one and only surviving period shirt. It's all straight lines.
On my web site, I explain her system of measurement which allows adapting the
pattern to anyone. With a garment as loose as the rubakha, you don't need
to-the-1/4-in precision. The shirt is very nice and comfortable, and even
easy to adapt for a fencing shirt.

Go to:
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/Predslava/GiliarovskaiaPatterns.html">Pattern
s and Instructions for Medieval Russian Costumes</A>
(http://members.aol.com/Predslava/GiliarovskaiaPatterns.html)

Predslava
• I actually have instructions for making a rubakha (and calculating the size of the pattern pieces) almost ready to go. I ll have the text ready this evening.
Message 4 of 4 , Oct 18, 1999
I actually have instructions for making a rubakha (and calculating the size
of the pattern pieces) almost ready to go. I'll have the text ready this
evening. The pictures will take longer (I still haven't found a scanner
available). It would be easier to understand with pictures but I think it
will still work.

Basically you just... Well I guess I don't have time to explain it now.
Just give me a little more time and I'll get the next installment of my
website up.

Wishing she wasn't at work right now....
Sofya la Rus

-----Original Message-----
From: "Patricia Hefner" <patricia.hefner@...>

OK, if I take a piece of fabric and lay it out, how do I figure out how
big to make the gores? Also, how do I figure out the measurement for the
sleeves--how do you make them fit the holes? My first "rubakha" was a
t-tunic; I'd like to make another one after reading that terrific site
on Kiev Rus costuming. Then I can get going on that navershnik.

Dekuji!
Isabelle

patricia.hefner@...

Slavic Interest Group homepage:
http://www.uwplatt.edu/~goldschp/slavic.html
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