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Magyar costume

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  • Su Ralston
    Just a couple of suggestions - If you decide to interface the collar pieces, make sure you iron the interfacing to the piece that will be attached next to the
    Message 1 of 1 , Jun 27, 2002
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      Just a couple of suggestions -
      If you decide to interface the collar pieces, make sure you iron the
      interfacing to the piece that will be attached next to the body of the
      garment when the collar is folded back (the undercollar). Iron-on
      interfacing occasionally bubbles the fabric it is ironed to and this will
      hide the bubbles.

      The shape of the tunic is fairly simple - you can use a standard t-tunic
      pattern (the wrist edge of the sleeves are slightly gathered/eased into the
      red colored wrist banding, with a possible button/loop combination on the
      inside of the wrist to fit closer). You could also use the standard
      Eastern/geometric cut with a vertical seam that runs from the shoulder to
      the hem (this defines the front/back pieces), and a second horizontal seam
      from running from this seam to the underarm and along the bottom of the
      sleeve. I like using the center point of the shoulder to define the top of
      the vertical seam, and the point about 1 inch lower than the center of the
      bust to define the centermost point of the horizontal seam.

      You end up with three main pattern pieces - front/back (cut one on a fold,
      and one not - the only difference is the neck line), side pieces (I usually
      cut four not on folds so I can add diagonally cut half squares to the
      underarm area as gussets), and sleeves (this should be sharply trapezoidal -
      larger at the shoulder and smaller at the wrist -I usually cut two on the
      fold).

      The neck/collar also is fairly simple - the triangular shape you see in the
      picture is a combination of the front edge of the tunic (lined in cream
      colored fabric) turned back from a point just above the belt, and a
      rectangular cut piece cut for the collar that is eased into the circular
      edge of the neck line also laid out flat on the shoulders. If you look at
      the pictures of both the men's and the women's garment, you will see they
      are cut the same and the point of the collar ends just past and in front of
      the point of the shoulder.

      The men's tunic is cut with extra material added to the front seam so it
      will overlap by 4-5 inches. There may be slight gathers on the sleeve at
      the top of the shoulder - this can still be done with the geometric cut,
      just cut the piece so the vertical seam (when your arms are forming the top
      bar of the "t") is longer by 1-2 inches than you need.

      Order to Put Pieces Together
      (If you cut gussets - I use two 5 inch squares cut diagonally)
      If you want to lined the tunic completely and the turned-back collar/facing
      is part of the lining (and every stitching you do to the outside, do the
      same thing to the lining) -
      1. Stitch the 4 gusset pieces to the top side-seam edge of the 4 side
      seam pieces - make sure you have two rights and two lefts
      2. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front to the back (stitch the center
      back seam at this time if you cut it in two pieces
      3. Stitch the side/gusset pieces to the sleeve at the sleeve side seam
      closest to the shoulder (this is the horizontal seam you cut before)
      4. Stitch the bands to the front edge and the hem pieces
      5. Stitch the under collar to the front/back piece and the collar lining
      to the front facing/lining (the under collar can be the same color as your
      front edge/hem bands and cuffs if you want)
      6. Stitch the side/gusset/sleeve pieces to the front/back/collar piece at
      the vertical seam
      7. Stitch the outside to the lining - start at the side seams at the
      hem - stitch the front hem, up the front, around the edge of the collar,
      down the other side of the front and back along the other side of the hem.
      Stitch the back hem at this time also
      8. Stitch the side seams - start at the wrist on the outside material -
      stitch from the wrist to the underarm, down the side seam, up the side seam
      for the lining, back to the wrist of the lining
      If you didn't completely line the tunic
      6a. Stitch the side seams
      7a. Stitch the front facing/collar to the outside - after you
      clip/turn/press, carefully stitch the edges to the outside garment
      8a. Stitch the hem
      9. Stitch the cuff/wrist bands to the ends of the sleeves

      Every place "stitch" is written, it really means "stitch, trim the seam,
      clipping corner and curves as needed, turn and press".

      Please e-mail back if you have questions - I'd love to help.

      Good luck and let us know how your tunic turns out...
      Su of the Silver Horn, Caid
      Su Ralston, Fullerton, CA
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