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sarafan hassles

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  • Patricia Hefner
    I m trying to make a sarafan, and I m confused as heck with the gore measurements. I m using Natasha s pattern and directions--except I ran into a measurement
    Message 1 of 16 , Mar 31, 2002
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      I'm trying to make a sarafan, and I'm confused as heck
      with the gore measurements. I'm using Natasha's
      pattern and directions--except I ran into a
      measurement hassle with it. My material, folded, is
      only 22'' wide, and my biggest measurement had to be
      24 inches. So I had to make a bit of an adjustment. I
      took two pieces of the fabric and cut them as front
      and back, without a fold. The top is 22 inches; the
      second measurement, four and a half inches down, is 24
      inches. Then there's the 20-inch diagonal cut, then
      the part that's 30 inches long. Problem: 22 1/2 inches
      won't do here, as my top measurement was 24! I can't
      figure out the cut on the gores. How long should I
      make them? The 20" diagonal doesn't end at the hips,
      it's lower! The thing seems to fit in the sense that I
      could get on. Fortunately, I have some extra fabric
      that I can use if I've screwed up on the gores (it's
      broadcloth for those hot Meridian summers). But it
      might look messy if I sew in these particular gores. I
      just don't get these measurements, so I quit before I
      really screwed up and put everything in the wrong
      place. Darn, this thing has me confused big time!
      Could someone help me? Thanks in advance for any help!

      Isabelle

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    • Jenn/Yana
      ... Right, you had to make a seam down the front and the back in order to have enough fabric width to fit you. Doing fine, it is what I would do (either that
      Message 2 of 16 , Apr 2, 2002
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        Isabelle frantically wrote:

        >I'm trying to make a sarafan, and I'm confused as heck
        >with the gore measurements. I'm using Natasha's
        >pattern and directions--except I ran into a
        >measurement hassle with it. My material, folded, is
        >only 22'' wide, and my biggest measurement had to be
        >24 inches. So I had to make a bit of an adjustment. I
        >took two pieces of the fabric and cut them as front
        >and back, without a fold. The top is 22 inches; the
        >second measurement, four and a half inches down, is 24
        >inches.

        Right, you had to make a seam down the front and the back in order to have
        enough fabric width to fit you. Doing fine, it is what I would do (either
        that or I would have been "wasteful" and tore the fabric into the custom
        width I needed, but I become psychotic psewer sometimes).

        > Then there's the 20-inch diagonal cut, then
        >the part that's 30 inches long. Problem: 22 1/2 inches
        >won't do here, as my top measurement was 24! I can't
        >figure out the cut on the gores. How long should I
        >make them? The 20" diagonal doesn't end at the hips,
        >it's lower!

        In my opinion, the straight edge of the gore (measurement E), should be as
        long as from your bust measurement to the floor (B to floor), not your hip
        to the floor, as the directions say. The directions state that "the point
        of the side gores (at the hip in this pattern) can be raised to accomodate
        larger waist measurements, if necessary." Definitely raise it. I think
        that it would be better if the fabric started to drape from under the
        armpit, instead of starting somewhere around the hips (which would look
        more like a bliaut, to me). No depictions of Russian dress that I have
        seen have a cylindrical waist with the fabric beginning to flare at the
        hips (Tasha, please comment, since you have actually seen your garment in
        action).

        If you start under the armpit (at B), you don't have to worry that the
        fabric is only 22 inches folded. You will definitely have enough width to
        fit into it. If you had increased the basic measurement to something
        really wide (from 22.5 to 30, for example), I might advise a wider gore,
        just to make the comleted out fit look more balanced. You may want to cut
        a pair of gores from some muslin and baste it to the body, just to check
        the fit and drape (cheap fabric is our friend).

        Now _I _have a question, mostly for Tasha. The instructions on sewing the
        gores say, "Setting the gores in this pattern is very easy. When they are
        cut, you will have four right triangles. Take one triangle and set the
        right angle against one lower outside edge of one panel, right sides
        together, pin, and stitch. Do this for both sides of each panel. Press the
        seams flat."

        So, Tasha, are we to sew the long diagonal sides together (bias) or the
        long straight sides (long grain)? In my head, I think it is the long
        straight sides, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't something going on
        with bias-to-straight seams, or something. Could be worthwhile to try it
        both ways....

        Anyway, Isabelle, I hope this advice makes sense and good luck to you!

        --Yana
      • Jenn/Yana
        ... I meant to say it would look like a cotehardie. --Yana
        Message 3 of 16 , Apr 2, 2002
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          >I think
          >that it would be better if the fabric started to drape from under the
          >armpit, instead of starting somewhere around the hips (which would look
          >more like a bliaut, to me).


          I meant to say "it would look like a cotehardie."

          --Yana
        • Patricia Hefner
          This is what I ended up doing. Fortunately, I had five and a half yards of this fabric--broadcloth, which I know is not period but if we don t accomodate
          Message 4 of 16 , Apr 2, 2002
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            This is what I ended up doing. Fortunately, I had five
            and a half yards of this fabric--broadcloth, which I
            know is not period but if we don't accomodate these
            infernally hot Meridian summer nights we pay--so I was
            able to fold it up and cut out two pieces without
            using the folds. Then I didn't know where to put the
            gores. I made a *huge* mistake with the gores on my
            first sarafan, and that's why I ran into a fitting
            problem fast when I gained weight due to a medical
            problem. Ouch! So I took the pieces of fabric I cut
            out of the broadcloth and sewed them together at the
            top, complete with seams. I sewed about two inches at
            a time to see what the fit was like. It was fine when
            I got to the waist; some pins proved that I would have
            had problems if I'd gone any further without putting
            the gores in. I actually may have to go back and pull
            some of this stitching out; I don't know. This stuff
            is tricky because I'm losing weight (I joined a health
            club!). We have a really good alterer in Meridies. :-)
            I haven't done much sewing in the past couple of years
            because I've been learning tablet weaving, working on
            my web site, and putting together classes for the
            Royal University of Meridies, including an overview of
            Russian garb that started out as a bit of an inside
            joke. A Middle Eastern dance Laurel planned a Middle
            Eastern event with a battle with Crusaders in it. She
            wanted an "Eastern European invasion" and asked yours
            truly to be the Eastern European party. So I went in a
            navershnik (it was July and the heat was a killer) and
            we had the battle with the "Eastern European party"
            involved by teaching the ladies what Russian garb
            looked like using the pictures from 'dak's packet and
            also pictures from someone in the Atlanta group (the
            Barony of South Downs), as well as my navershnik and
            my first kokoshnik (which is still my best one. I've
            made two of them since but I still think that first
            one is the best). It was fun even though we got pretty
            wiped out due to the heat.
            Anyway, I hope I've gotten past the tricky fit deal
            with this sarafan. Whew!

            Isabelle



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          • Diane Sawyer
            ... {snip} ... I do the custom width thing, but then I usually work with 60 wide fabric. I like the psychotic pswer thing.... does that happen before or
            Message 5 of 16 , Apr 3, 2002
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              --- Jenn/Yana <slavic@...> wrote:
              > Isabelle frantically wrote:
              {snip}

              > I
              > >took two pieces of the fabric and cut them as front
              > >and back, without a fold. The top is 22 inches; the
              > >second measurement, four and a half inches down, is
              > 24
              > >inches.
              >
              > Right, you had to make a seam down the front and the
              > back in order to have
              > enough fabric width to fit you. Doing fine, it is
              > what I would do (either
              > that or I would have been "wasteful" and tore the
              > fabric into the custom
              > width I needed, but I become psychotic psewer
              > sometimes).

              I do the custom width thing, but then I usually work
              with 60" wide fabric.

              I like the "psychotic pswer" thing.... does that
              happen before or after midnight, or is it a function
              of how much time you have until the event at which you
              want to wear the outfit? :-)

              {snip}
              > > I
              > can't
              > >figure out the cut on the gores. How long should I
              > >make them? The 20" diagonal doesn't end at the
              > hips,
              > >it's lower!
              >
              > In my opinion, the straight edge of the gore
              > (measurement E), should be as
              > long as from your bust measurement to the floor (B
              > to floor), not your hip
              > to the floor, as the directions say. The directions
              > state that "the point
              > of the side gores (at the hip in this pattern) can
              > be raised to accomodate
              > larger waist measurements, if necessary."
              > Definitely raise it. I think
              > that it would be better if the fabric started to
              > drape from under the
              > armpit, instead of starting somewhere around the
              > hips (which would look
              > more like a bliaut, to me). No depictions of
              > Russian dress that I have
              > seen have a cylindrical waist with the fabric
              > beginning to flare at the
              > hips (Tasha, please comment, since you have actually
              > seen your garment in
              > action).

              I prefer it with the gores lower, but you have more
              experience with the actual pictures than I. I may be
              making something that looks more like a Norse dress
              than a sarafan, and need to do more research.
              Unfortunately, my modern sensibilities are coming to
              the fore, and if I wear something bigger, I feel like
              a ship under sail. I know that's the point, but I'm
              big enough without wanting to feel bigger.

              Basically, what I did was take what I thought Dak's
              packet was trying to say and adapt the measuring
              guide, since under no circumstances, even with the
              gores at my armpits, will a 40" circumference fit
              under my arms. I think I may have misinterpreted the
              20" diagonal cut, however.

              {snip of stuff about setting gores}

              >
              > So, Tasha, are we to sew the long diagonal sides
              > together (bias) or the
              > long straight sides (long grain)? In my head, I
              > think it is the long
              > straight sides, but I wanted to make sure there
              > wasn't something going on
              > with bias-to-straight seams, or something. Could be
              > worthwhile to try it
              > both ways....

              Long diagonal sides -- look at Dak's packet. If you
              sew the gores in so the hypotenuse of the right
              triangle is against the edge or the front/back panel,
              then there will be a large triangular divot in the
              hemline. If you sew it so the long edge of the right
              triangle is against the edge of the panel, you get a
              trailing bit that can be taken off in the hemming.

              Tasha
              who will likely have to rework her article

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            • Jenn/Yana
              ... Oh, sometimes I will spend days on figuring out a pattern, ripping muslin into shreds, drafting things out on paper (many, many pieces of paper), oblivious
              Message 6 of 16 , Apr 3, 2002
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                >I like the "psychotic pswer" thing.... does that
                >happen before or after midnight, or is it a function
                >of how much time you have until the event at which you
                >want to wear the outfit? :-)

                Oh, sometimes I will spend days on figuring out a pattern, ripping muslin
                into shreds, drafting things out on paper (many, many pieces of paper),
                oblivious all the while to everything else in the world (work, household
                chores, my husband...). That's one type of psychotic. The other type is
                staying up so late that my eyes become so dry that I have to be careful not
                to blink my contact lenses out of my eyes as I sew.

                >Long diagonal sides -- look at Dak's packet. If you
                >sew the gores in so the hypotenuse of the right
                >triangle is against the edge or the front/back panel,
                >then there will be a large triangular divot in the
                >hemline. If you sew it so the long edge of the right
                >triangle is against the edge of the panel, you get a
                >trailing bit that can be taken off in the hemming.

                Ah, I think I misinterpreted the instructions. So you sew the gores
                (triangles) together along the bias edge and _then_ sew them to the body
                pieces (rectangles), right? That is actually what I though you did, I just
                tend to sew the individual gore-piece to the body first, then sew the gores
                together at what will become the side-seam.

                >Tasha
                >who will likely have to rework her article

                A diagram of the finished product showing the seam lines would be helpful. ;-)

                --Yana, the bleary
              • Diane Sawyer
                ... {SNIP} ... No, you have it right. Much, much easier that way. But you do end up with the bias edge together. The only way I can think of to get around
                Message 7 of 16 , Apr 4, 2002
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                  --- Jenn/Yana <slavic@...> wrote:
                  {SNIP}

                  >
                  > Ah, I think I misinterpreted the instructions. So
                  > you sew the gores
                  > (triangles) together along the bias edge and _then_
                  > sew them to the body
                  > pieces (rectangles), right? That is actually what I
                  > though you did, I just
                  > tend to sew the individual gore-piece to the body
                  > first, then sew the gores
                  > together at what will become the side-seam.

                  No, you have it right. Much, much easier that way.
                  But you do end up with the bias edge together. The
                  only way I can think of to get around that is to cut
                  the gore as one solid triangle, on the grain. Big
                  fabric waster, that.

                  >
                  > >Tasha
                  > >who will likely have to rework her article
                  >
                  > A diagram of the finished product showing the seam
                  > lines would be helpful. ;-)
                  >
                  > --Yana, the bleary

                  I'll see what I can do. It'll be a lot easier now
                  that I have a scanner. That's one I can't fake with
                  ascii art.

                  Tasha

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                • Sorcha
                  Subject: Re: [sig] sarafan hassles Greetings Tasha, If I may interject here, on the subject of bias and straight grain. The bias should almost always be sewn
                  Message 8 of 16 , Apr 5, 2002
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                    Subject: Re: [sig] sarafan hassles

                    Greetings Tasha,
                    If I may interject here, on the subject of bias and straight grain. The bias should almost always be sewn to the straight grain of the garment. The exception is any underarm seam of gussets to take advantage of the stretch properties of the bias. A sarafan is a rectangular construction, subtly differing from those made a bit further south or to the west. An excellent article concerning the whys of this rule is available at: http://www.vertetsable.com/periodstyle.htm.
                    So to the question below the answer is, No, first you sew the bias edge to the straight edge of the rectangle, then sew the side seam, being the straight edges of the triangles. For the rectangular patern I use most often the gussets (under arm) are sewn to , the gore (side) peices, then the gussets are sewn to the sleeves and then the whole side assembly is sewn to the body of the garment in a long continuous seam. The order these things get into differs with different construction plans of course, but the straight to bias rule continues throughout.
                    Sewing bias to bias will give you alot of stretch and droop. A good thing for underarm seams to allow movement, a bad thing for main seams, causing them to droop badly, and never hang quite right.
                    I hope this has been helpful in any small way,
                    Gulenay Khazari

                    PS,
                    The page above is that of my Laurel's and none of my doing.
                    G



                    >I like the "psychotic pswer" thing.... < Me Too! >
                    <snip>

                    Ah, I think I misinterpreted the instructions. So you sew the gores
                    (triangles) together along the bias edge and _then_ sew them to the body
                    pieces (rectangles), right? That is actually what I though you did, I just
                    tend to sew the individual gore-piece to the body first, then sew the gores
                    together at what will become the side-seam.

                    >Tasha
                    >who will likely have to rework her article

                    <Snip>



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Diane Sawyer
                    ... {snip} Isn t that what I said? ... All the edges of a triangle are straight. Are you talking about the hypotenuse or the long edge? And what you re
                    Message 9 of 16 , Apr 5, 2002
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                      --- Sorcha <sorcha@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Subject: Re: [sig] sarafan hassles
                      >
                      > Greetings Tasha,
                      > If I may interject here, on the subject of bias
                      > and straight grain. The bias should almost always be
                      > sewn to the straight grain of the garment.
                      {snip}

                      Isn't that what I said?

                      > So to the question below the answer is, No, first
                      > you sew the bias edge to the straight edge of the
                      > rectangle, then sew the side seam, being the
                      > straight edges of the triangles.

                      All the edges of a triangle are straight. Are you
                      talking about the hypotenuse or the long edge? And
                      what you're saying is exactly how I told Yana to put
                      it together. Unless you're talking about sewing the
                      hypotenuse to the front/back panels, in which case I
                      cannot for the life of me figure out how you manage
                      this without getting a huge triangular divot in the
                      lower hem.

                      > For the rectangular
                      > patern I use most often the gussets (under arm) are
                      > sewn to , the gore (side) peices, then the gussets
                      > are sewn to the sleeves and then the whole side
                      > assembly is sewn to the body of the garment in a
                      > long continuous seam. The order these things get
                      > into differs with different construction plans of
                      > course, but the straight to bias rule continues
                      > throughout.

                      That's a rubakha you're talking about, and that's how
                      I sew it together.

                      > Sewing bias to bias will give you alot of stretch
                      > and droop. A good thing for underarm seams to allow
                      > movement, a bad thing for main seams, causing them
                      > to droop badly, and never hang quite right.
                      > I hope this has been helpful in any small way,
                      > Gulenay Khazari

                      I've never had any trouble.

                      Tasha

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                    • Sorcha
                      ... {snip} ... No, Not really, we have differing views about bias and straight grain, please see below. ... Yes, thats exactly what I mean, the long edges sewn
                      Message 10 of 16 , Apr 6, 2002
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                        --- Sorcha <sorcha@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Greetings Tasha,
                        > If I may interject here, on the subject of bias
                        > and straight grain. The bias should almost always be
                        > sewn to the straight grain of the garment.
                        {snip}

                        > Isn't that what I said?


                        No, Not really, we have differing views about bias and straight grain, please see below.

                        > So to the question below the answer is, No, first
                        > you sew the bias edge to the straight edge of the
                        > rectangle, then sew the side seam, being the
                        > straight edges of the triangles.

                        > All the edges of a triangle are straight. Are you
                        > talking about the hypotenuse or the long edge? And
                        > what you're saying is exactly how I told Yana to put
                        > it together. Unless you're talking about sewing the
                        > hypotenuse to the front/back panels, in which case I
                        > cannot for the life of me figure out how you manage
                        > this without getting a huge triangular divot in the
                        > lower hem.

                        Yes, thats exactly what I mean, the long edges sewn to the body of the garment. The bias edge will most likely be the long edge, forgive me but it's been a very long time since geometry for me and I don't know if that's the hypotenuse. The bias means the cut has gone at an angle across the grain of the fabric instead of with the warp or weft. The fabric will pull, or stretch across bias, and has very very little stretch with the grain. The "Divot" you worry about is easily dealt with, the hem, if you lay the garment flat will be angled up to from the body to the side seams. I then fold the garment in half setting all the seams together, and cut it in a semi circle. I use the measuring tape placed at the center neck edge, and mark the fabric first. ( think pin and string method of marking a vcircle) Cutting at this line will give you a very nice even hem all around and doesn't waste much fabric at all.

                        > For the rectangular
                        > patern I use most often the gussets (under arm) are
                        > sewn to , the gore (side) peices, then the gussets
                        > are sewn to the sleeves and then the whole side
                        > assembly is sewn to the body of the garment in a
                        > long continuous seam. The order these things get
                        > into differs with different construction plans of
                        > course, but the straight to bias rule continues
                        > throughout.

                        > That's a rubakha you're talking about, and that's how
                        > I sew it together.

                        Thankyou, I know it's a different pattern, I have a Khazar persona, not Russian, thats why I haven't been contributing to this thread earlier. However, regardless of the culture or pattern concerned, the principles of working with woven fabrics don't change.

                        > Sewing bias to bias will give you alot of stretch
                        > and droop. A good thing for underarm seams to allow
                        > movement, a bad thing for main seams, causing them
                        > to droop badly, and never hang quite right.
                        > I hope this has been helpful in any small way,
                        > Gulenay Khazari

                        > I've never had any trouble.
                        >
                        > Tasha

                        __Good for you! I've had very a different experiences. It is not my intention to disrespect you, your experience or your knowledge. It is only my intention to be helpful to someone new to sewing. I have been sewing for about 30 years before and in the society. I most certainly haven't seen everything yet, but one thing I haven't seen is a bias seam that didn't stretch. If we're at an event together, please find me, I'd be very interested in how you did it!

                        Respectfully,
                        Gulenay

                        Barony of Stromguard
                        Kingdom of AnTir
                      • Diane Sawyer
                        ... {snip} ... The hypotenuse is the edge of a right triangle that s opposite the right angle. I guess that s the long edge. I always called the sides, the
                        Message 11 of 16 , Apr 7, 2002
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                          --- Sorcha <sorcha@...> wrote:
                          >
                          {snip}
                          >
                          > > All the edges of a triangle are straight. Are
                          > you
                          > > talking about the hypotenuse or the long edge?
                          > And
                          > > what you're saying is exactly how I told Yana to
                          > put
                          > > it together. Unless you're talking about sewing
                          > the
                          > > hypotenuse to the front/back panels, in which
                          > case I
                          > > cannot for the life of me figure out how you
                          > manage
                          > > this without getting a huge triangular divot in
                          > the
                          > > lower hem.
                          >
                          > Yes, thats exactly what I mean, the long edges
                          > sewn to the body of the garment. The bias edge will
                          > most likely be the long edge, forgive me but it's
                          > been a very long time since geometry for me and I
                          > don't know if that's the hypotenuse.

                          The hypotenuse is the edge of a right triangle that's
                          opposite the right angle. I guess that's the long
                          edge. I always called the sides, the long edge, the
                          short edge, and the hypotenuse so as to keep all three
                          straight (no pun intended).

                          The bias means
                          > the cut has gone at an angle across the grain of the
                          > fabric instead of with the warp or weft. The fabric
                          > will pull, or stretch across bias, and has very very
                          > little stretch with the grain. The "Divot" you worry
                          > about is easily dealt with, the hem, if you lay the
                          > garment flat will be angled up to from the body to
                          > the side seams. I then fold the garment in half
                          > setting all the seams together, and cut it in a semi
                          > circle. I use the measuring tape placed at the
                          > center neck edge, and mark the fabric first. ( think
                          > pin and string method of marking a vcircle) Cutting
                          > at this line will give you a very nice even hem all
                          > around and doesn't waste much fabric at all.
                          >

                          Maybe I'll give this a shot, but for me, it's a pain
                          to figure out the lengths this way. The few times I
                          tried this method, I ended up with a divot that
                          reached my knee, so no amount of hem adjustment would
                          fix it. The only thing that worked was taking out the
                          gores and turning them around, the way I described.

                          {snip}
                          >
                          > __Good for you! I've had very a different
                          > experiences. It is not my intention to disrespect
                          > you, your experience or your knowledge. It is only
                          > my intention to be helpful to someone new to sewing.
                          > I have been sewing for about 30 years before and in
                          > the society. I most certainly haven't seen
                          > everything yet, but one thing I haven't seen is a
                          > bias seam that didn't stretch. If we're at an event
                          > together, please find me, I'd be very interested in
                          > how you did it!
                          >
                          > Respectfully,
                          > Gulenay
                          >
                          > Barony of Stromguard
                          > Kingdom of AnTir

                          I wish; last time I was in An Tir, the Army had me
                          working nights and there was no chance to even get to
                          a stitch n bitch, never mind an event.

                          I'm sorry I was snippy; job stress and rampant
                          insomnia have made me touchy. That, and the fact that
                          the stuff I wrote to try to help people seems to have
                          screwed them up more than helped. That bugs me more
                          than you can know.

                          Sorry again,
                          Tasha

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                        • Patricia Hefner
                          I haven t sewn my gores in yet (I know you can say stress :-)--ah, welcome to the club) but when I do, I m going to try the waist measurement. I almost have
                          Message 12 of 16 , Apr 7, 2002
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                            I haven't sewn my gores in yet (I know you can say
                            "stress" :-)--ah, welcome to the club) but when I do,
                            I'm going to try the waist measurement. I almost have
                            to because I already cut the gores (straight) and I
                            only have so much material left. After this I will
                            (tentatively, it depends on whether or not I have the
                            time) do a "mock-up" deal with unbleached muslin and
                            then a "final" product with nicer material (this
                            thing's broadcloth, folks. Would I do this with silk
                            or whatever? No! I'm only a so-so costumer anyway)
                            This thing is basically experimental for me, and it
                            will definitely be an improvement on my first sarafan,
                            which was absolutely awful!

                            Isabelle




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                          • Marilee Humason
                            My first Sarafan was the one from the Folklore pattern, you know, the one that is gatherered onto a band, and sometimes smocked? No one said anything of
                            Message 13 of 16 , Apr 8, 2002
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                              My first Sarafan was the one from the Folklore
                              pattern, you know, the one that is gatherered onto a
                              band, and sometimes smocked? No one said anything of
                              course, this was so long ago, I knew more than anyone
                              else, (scary!) I like to think we all improve, save
                              your first one, it is so satisfying to see how far
                              you have come!!
                              Hang in there!
                              Baroness Anastasia
                              --- Patricia Hefner <verte76@...> wrote:
                              > > > This thing is basically experimental for me, and
                              it
                              > will definitely be an improvement on my first
                              > sarafan,
                              > which was absolutely awful!
                              >
                              > Isabelle
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > __________________________________________________
                              > Do You Yahoo!?
                              > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
                              > http://taxes.yahoo.com/
                              >


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                            • Sorcha
                              ... {snip} ... The hypotenuse is the edge of a right triangle that s opposite the right angle. I guess that s the long edge. I always called the sides, the
                              Message 14 of 16 , Apr 8, 2002
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                                > Dear Tasha,
                                {snip}
                                >
                                The hypotenuse is the edge of a right triangle that's
                                opposite the right angle. I guess that's the long
                                edge. I always called the sides, the long edge, the
                                short edge, and the hypotenuse so as to keep all three
                                straight (no pun intended).

                                Thanks, I'm glad to know what the hypotenuese is helps with explanations etc.

                                The "Divot" you worry
                                > about is easily dealt with, the hem, if you lay the
                                > garment flat will be angled up to from the body to
                                > the side seams. I then fold the garment in half
                                > setting all the seams together, and cut it in a semi
                                > circle. I use the measuring tape placed at the
                                > center neck edge, and mark the fabric first. ( think
                                > pin and string method of marking a circle) Cutting
                                > at this line will give you a very nice even hem all
                                > around and doesn't waste much fabric at all.
                                >

                                Maybe I'll give this a shot, but for me, it's a pain
                                to figure out the lengths this way. The few times I
                                tried this method, I ended up with a divot that
                                reached my knee, so no amount of hem adjustment would
                                fix it. The only thing that worked was taking out the
                                gores and turning them around, the way I described.
                                Give it a try, once with cheap woven fabric and see for yourself. I highly recomend the method described in the "Turkeman Coat Pattern" on Laurellen's web site. The same pattern works for everything from shirts, through tunics to coats. It's a layout method that really uses almost all your fabric, with very little in the way of scraps. click on :http://www.vertetsable.com/periodstyle.htm this is the demo my Laurel developed based in large part on Max Tilke's drawings. The means by which the shape/weave of the fabric is used to fit to he body is really amazing. It takes a couple tries but it's a good basic rectangular pattern. The hem measurements just get there with practice, sometimes it comes out perfectly and sometimes I just amaze myself with new and inventive ways to screw it up. One thing that will minimize the "divot" problem is to cut the gores at a more oblique angle. The hem will slant up some when laid flat, but will hang evenly when worn.


                                {snip}
                                > Respectfully,
                                > Gulenay
                                >
                                > Barony of Stromguard
                                > Kingdom of AnTir

                                I wish; last time I was in An Tir, the Army had me
                                working nights and there was no chance to even get to
                                a stitch n bitch, never mind an event.

                                I'm sorry I was snippy; job stress and rampant
                                insomnia have made me touchy. That, and the fact that
                                the stuff I wrote to try to help people seems to have
                                screwed them up more than helped. That bugs me more
                                than you can know.

                                Sorry again,
                                Tasha

                                No Problemo, I understand job stress, I'm a nurse and we just came through a 55 day strike. I didn't mean to tread on sore toes either. It's hard for me to try and explain sewing things in writing at all. I'm getting a bit better at it with practice, but it's still easier for me to pick up something and show the student. Hope you can come visit us in AnTir again soon, BTW our May Crown tourney is very close to a major airport, in Vancouver Washington (Stromguard) May 17th-19th, just in case you have a few frequent flyer miles saved up. :-)
                                Warm Regards,
                                Gulenay
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