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Re: [sig] Question about stitching seams

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  • Melina York
    Hi, ... Thanks Tasha, it s a great article. Its got enough info to definitely get started (and then some). ... I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend (found
    Message 1 of 9 , Aug 4 11:49 AM
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      Hi,

      >I found this article highly useful.
      >http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html

      Thanks Tasha, it's a great article. Its got enough info to definitely
      get started (and then some).


      >What fabrics and threads are you planning on using?

      I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend (found on sale for 1/2 price -
      bought the whole bolt and 2 other colours as well). It's a fine,
      lightwieght fabric that is extremely comfortable to wear. I already made a
      machine stitched shirt and wore it on a very hot/humid day. It was still
      nice to wear. I would like to try making one of pure linen, but finding
      some that fine, and at that price, is difficult at best.

      As to thread, what would be best to use (from an authentic point of
      view)? Linen or silk? Other? I don't really know much about this. I have
      hand stitched two other tunics before (a norman and a spanish one), but I
      wasn't worried about authentic seams and such. I did it because I could
      keep sewing even at work. Normally I use a machine for construction, but I
      want to have a more period piece.

      Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?

      Thanks,
      Xristina
    • Diane Sawyer
      {snip} ... {snip} ... Try http://www.fabrics-store.com/ -- good prices, wide variety of colors and weights, and excellent customer service. ... The reason I
      Message 2 of 9 , Aug 4 12:05 PM
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        {snip}
        >
        > >What fabrics and threads are you planning on using?
        >
        > I am using a 60/40% linen/cotton blend
        {snip}
        > I would like to try making one of pure linen, but finding
        > some that fine, and at that price, is difficult at best.

        Try http://www.fabrics-store.com/ -- good prices, wide variety of colors and
        weights, and excellent customer service.

        >
        > As to thread, what would be best to use (from an authentic point of
        > view)? Linen or silk? Other? I don't really know much about this. I have
        > hand stitched two other tunics before (a norman and a spanish one), but I
        > wasn't worried about authentic seams and such. I did it because I could
        > keep sewing even at work. Normally I use a machine for construction, but I
        > want to have a more period piece.

        The reason I asked is that people will often sew wool using poly-cotton
        thread, which eventually saaws right through the wool fibers. From an
        authenticity point of view, you're probably better off using linen thread.
        You can get a 260 yard spool of linen thread in off-white from Jas. Townsend &
        Son for $6 -- a little more expensive, but not as bad as I'd feared.
        http://www.jastown.com/bulk/th-325.htm

        >
        > Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Xristina

        Probably silk, and that *does* get expensive... I just spent $42 for 11 full
        skeins and 3 half skeins of silk floss, and local needlework shops are hard to
        find. If you can find one that carries YLI silk floss, that's much less
        expensive, but not as widely carried. You could get away with using DMC
        cotton if expense is a concern. I would do the embroidery before assembling
        the shirt; makes it easier to put into a hoop.

        Also, be sure to wash the floss before starting; I just had some blue DMC run
        on me and mess up a piece I was planning on displaying. Surprised the heck
        out of me; I expected the reds to run, but not the blues. You can use a type
        of horse soap called Orvus, which is also used by textile conservationists
        because it is gentle and rinses away cleanly. I have not used it, but
        needleworkers rave over it. I read about one that got a cola stain out of
        some counted cross-stitch with Orvus... sounds good to me! You can get it at
        tack stores ($13 for a 7.5 lb jar, which will last you forever) or quilt
        stores ($6 for an 8oz bottle -- half the price for 1/8 the amount!).

        Have I bored you all yet?

        Tasha
        http://ursamajor.8m.com
      • Jenn Ridley
        On Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:05:39 -0400, Diane Sawyer ... There s also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors to match all DMC
        Message 3 of 9 , Aug 4 3:21 PM
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          On Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:05:39 -0400, "Diane Sawyer" <tasha@...>
          wrote:
          >> Also, what type of thread would be used for the embroidery on the shirt?
          >>
          >> Thanks,
          >> Xristina
          >
          >Probably silk, and that *does* get expensive... I just spent $42 for 11 full
          >skeins and 3 half skeins of silk floss, and local needlework shops are hard to
          >find. If you can find one that carries YLI silk floss, that's much less
          >expensive, but not as widely carried.

          There's also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors
          to match all DMC and Anchor colors. Available from some needlework
          shops...my not-so LNS doesn't carry it, but then, she doesn't carry
          *any* silk. Try www.eternasilk.com for a list of shops that carry it.

          I have a full set of the Eterna stranded silk, which is probably
          closer to the silk used in period for embroidery, but it's a little
          trickier to work with than the minitwist, and probably *not* the
          thread to start doing embroidery with.

          yes, it *looks* like the more expensive silk once embroidered. I'm
          doing a piece of German longstitch off of Master Wymarc's page, and if
          I didn't know which colors were the Eterna and which weren't, I
          wouldn't be able to tell -- the Madiera silk is a little thinner than
          the other silks, but it covers just fine once stitched. I'm using
          Splendor, Madiera, and Eterna stranded on this project....it's kind of
          a scrounge the stash for appropriate colors project.

          NAYY...

          jenn
          --
          Jenn Ridley
          jridley@...
        • Diane Sawyer
          {snip} ... Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I m planning a Chinese dragon for mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny
          Message 4 of 9 , Aug 4 3:32 PM
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            {snip}
            >
            > There's also Eterna Mini-twist. About 70 cents a 6yd skein. Colors
            > to match all DMC and Anchor colors. Available from some needlework
            > shops...my not-so LNS doesn't carry it, but then, she doesn't carry
            > *any* silk. Try www.eternasilk.com for a list of shops that carry it.
            >
            > I have a full set of the Eterna stranded silk, which is probably
            > closer to the silk used in period for embroidery, but it's a little
            > trickier to work with than the minitwist, and probably *not* the
            > thread to start doing embroidery with.

            Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon for
            mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny sheen.

            I shoulda waited and ordered the Eterna... Oh well. Lessons learned.

            {snip}
            >
            > NAYY...
            >
            > jenn
            > --
            > Jenn Ridley

            What's NAYY mean?

            Tasha
          • Jenn Ridley
            ... Depends. On 18 ct canvas, doing satin stitch over 6/7 threads, I do (of course, I m also using 4.5 strands (each strand is really two filaments)). Doing
            Message 5 of 9 , Aug 4 8:12 PM
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              Tasha wrote:
              >Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon for
              >mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny sheen.

              Depends. On 18 ct canvas, doing satin stitch over 6/7 threads, I do
              (of course, I'm also using 4.5 strands (each strand is really two
              filaments)). Doing the German longstitch piece (32 ct linen, over 4
              threads, using 2 strands), I lay it with my fingers or the needle if
              it seems to be twisting. Doing XS with two strands on *any* count
              fabric, I don't. YMMV

              If you want the smooth shiny look, you probably will want to use a
              laying tool.

              >What's NAYY mean?
              no affiliation, yadda, yadda. It's another one of those internet
              acronyms. I first saw it on a Quiltropolis sewing list two-three
              years ago.


              jenn
              --
              Jenn Ridley
              jridley@...
            • Diane Sawyer
              ... for ... sheen. ... {snip} ... Most excellent, thank you! We now return you to your regularly scheduled Slavic discussions (unless someone wants to chime in
              Message 6 of 9 , Aug 4 8:17 PM
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                > Tasha wrote:
                > >Do you have to use a laying tool with it? I'm planning a Chinese dragon
                for
                > >mundane display and sale, and I really want to get that glossy, shiny
                sheen.
                >
                {snip}
                >
                > If you want the smooth shiny look, you probably will want to use a
                > laying tool.
                >
                > jenn
                > --
                > Jenn Ridley

                Most excellent, thank you!

                We now return you to your regularly scheduled Slavic discussions (unless
                someone wants to chime in with stuff on 13th century Russian embroidery, which
                would be REALLY cool).

                Tasha
              • aislinncc
                ... seams of ... entirely ... I know this is an old thread. Xristina, if you haven t finished your project yet, or started the seams, or just want info on what
                Message 7 of 9 , Dec 26, 2001
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                  --- In sig@y..., "Melina York" <myork2@h...> wrote:
                  > Hi,
                  >
                  > I was wondering what kind of technique would be used to stitch the
                  seams of
                  > clothing from 10th -11th C Kiev. I am planning on doing a piece
                  entirely
                  > by hand, and want to make sure that I do the seams right.
                  >
                  > Thanks,
                  > Xristina

                  I know this is an old thread. Xristina, if you haven't finished your
                  project yet, or started the seams, or just want info on what stitches
                  are used nowadays to finish seams, email me at
                  aislinncc@.... I am willing to make copies of pages in some
                  books I have and send them to you via snail mail. The books depict
                  seam-joining stitches for Ukrainian and Russian peasant blouses. They
                  remind me of macrame and I plan to use one of them to join the seams
                  of the blouse I am working on.

                  Nadezhda Petrovna Stoianova
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